AllCammedUp

Hey everyone, this is my first post, so I apologize if I'm re-hashing something that has been discussed before, but I'm in need of some sage advice.

I've got an '89 PU 4x4 w/ a 22R-E. The motor went out of it around 170K, and instead of going through the hassle of rebuilding, I decided to get a 'new' shortblock and install it. I ordered, received and installed a new motor from Midwest Engines several months ago. Due to the winter weather, etc., I didn't get a chance to finish the job until a few months ago, and I've had barely any time to drive it since.

All in all, I've only got about 500 miles on the new motor. It seems to run really well, but upon my '500-mile' inspection/oil-change, I've noticed a few problems:

1. I've been going through coolant like crazy, and I've noticed that the coolant is more like oil than antifreeze.

2. There is no coolant in the crankcase, as the oil looks fine, smells fine, and feels fine when I rub it between my fingers.

3. The truck runs like a scalded dog, but I'm afraid that this will only be temporary and will lead to the early failure of the motor if indeed it is a blown HG. It doesn't run hot, overheat or idle rough... in fact, you'd never know something was wrong with it unless you looked.

4. When I start it up w/ the radiator cap off, I don't notice any coolant (oil, really ) spraying out of the radiator... I see a couple of small air bubbles, but I cannot really attribute them to anything, as the motor vibrates a bit when running and might be making the coolant 'shake'.

I've not done a compression test as of yet, but I'm seriously thinking that the HG is toast. I didn't drive it extremely hard or get it hot during the first 500 miles, but who knows. From what I've read, the HG's on these motors are 'sensitive'.

Now, if it is a blown HG, I'm going to replace the head, as I had a problem during the install of my header, and wound up cracking one of the header/manifold mounting studs, and it actually wound up causing a small crack in the head.... I torqued everything down with a torque wrench, but one of the 'bosses' cracked anyway. Very frustrating to see this on a motor you've not even fired up yet.

Anyways, I'm thinking that I'm not going to take a chance on this head being warped/suspect/whatever, and I'm going to put a mo'better head on it. Does anyone have any recommendations on a vendor who sells decent 'stage I/II' heads for the late-22R-E's?

Also, while I'm going to the trouble to do the head, I'm thinking about a cam, as well. What is the 'board' favorite for a street-driven 22R-E w/ stock tires and gears? I've got a 5-speed.

I realize there is more than 1 question here, but I do appreciate any and all guidance. I'm going to be doing the work myself, so any pointers/tips on install sites, how-to's, etc. would also be greatly appreciated. Thanks a bunch!!

Whitney Roberts

solarcrew

I'd try LC Engineering or DOA racing.Their both good suppliers of parts for 22r series motors.Good luck!

92 Toyota

Whitney,
Please let me know what you find out I have a 92 with a22re and am having the same symptoms as you described my engine has 128,000 and I've been told it is most likely a cracked or corroded head.Only my coolent looks fine not oily,just uses it up fast.

solarcrew

:pat: I almost forgot.Check into the metal backed timing chain guides from DOA.The plastic toyota ones will break and this allows the chain to rub against a coolant passage,allowing coolant into the oil.

AllCammedUp

Thanks for the replies, guys!

Solarcrew, I will definitely be installing a set of the metal quides while I'm in there... might as well and it'll be cheap insurance the way I see it. I hate to disassemble the rest of the front of the engine, but I guess it'll be worth it in the end. I've already bought the ported intake runners and throttle body from LC, so I've had experience with them. They seem like a good company from everything I can tell.

92 toyota, I'm going to do a compression test tomorrow to see where its at. I'll let the board know what comes of the test, etc. It looks like (from what I can tell) that I'm going to be in for a good bit of work before the truck is right again.....

Bundubasher

Hi

"I'm going to replace the head, as I had a problem during the install of my header, and wound up cracking one of the header/manifold mounting studs, and it actually wound up causing a small crack in the head"

Replace the head!

After some offroading in a massive clay pit I clogged my rad so bad I overheated very badly all the way home and in then, in the end, had to be trailered.

After cleaning it up I started noticing my vehicle was loosing alot of coolant - I could see some of it on start up - but chemical test came back negative and so did the pressure test, negative water in the engine oil and I therefore thought it could only be the head gasket, but on removal I found I had a fine crack around no.1 port so I bought a reconditioned head and a recon radiator (as clogged rads are the most commom cause of over heating) Replaced the timing belt, fixed everything back up with new HG and head bolts (as they tend to stretch) and now the 3.0 TD is running fine.

But! I have to be carefull, an ARB bulbar and big IPF lights weren't in the original spec and I found that airflow across the rad was being blocked and so (kicking and screaming) I've taken my IPFs off (boo HOO!!!)

The 3.0TD (1KZ-T) has an aluminium head and these are prone to cracking when overheated - so keep an eye on your gauge and keep you rad clear and clean.

'86alaskanyoter

it sounds to me that you may not only have a bad head gasket,but if your head is cracked like you say it is,it is not holding compression and the coolant may be leaking out of the water jackets and and mixing with a little of the oil. just my 2 cents though. about a new head-there is a company in clearwater,fl called clearwater cylinder head,inc. and they sell a stage 1 ported&polished brand new casting.IT IS BAD_ASS!!!! my friend put one on and it semmed like a brand new truck.anyways, i dont know there number but i know you can find them on the net or through e-bay(also find the "rv" style cam there too) hope this helps.

AllCammedUp

Well guys, I went ahead and broke down and bought a new head, cam and other stuff to just go ahead and hopefully finish this for one and for all. Here's the parts I bought:

Timing kit w/ hardened gears, hardened tensioner, new chain, new seals and gaskets and steel-backed chain guides.

'Street RV' cylinder head from this guy: http://www.engbldr.com. It's a brand new casting w/ oversized valves, bowl work done to the chamber, etc. The price was right, and it is a better-than-stock head. It has hopped-up springs, new seals, etc., etc. Read about them here:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...tem=2416436721

RV camshaft (270* duration, 0.430" lift) to go along with the head

New timing cover (don't really need it , but want to be safe, nonetheless

New top-end gasket kit

New head bolts

My rocker assembly has less than 600 miles on it, so I'm going to re-use that, assuming that no substantial wear, etc. has happened. Oh yeah, I'm going to install a Flex-lite electric fan and ditch the factory fan, as well.

Hopefully all of this, combined w/ the mods I've already done (header, cold-air intake, ported intake runners and TB) will make the truck run a lot better.... heck... I just want to drive it!

I figured that while I've got all of this apart, I might as well put some decent stuff back in it.

Comments? TIA!