TRD 4RNR

Does anyone know how to reset the Check Engine Light ?
It came on after being in Pismo. I suspect it was just the air filter. I got a new one and the light is still on. Can it be reset and then wait to see if it comes back on again?
Thanks, Mike

TDiddy

Mike,

Pull the efi fuse, let it out for a while. Its the one in red in
this pic from Jacksonpt's write-up.

If it ends up coming back on, I have a code reader you can use. Auto Zone doesn't pull codes for free any more and the dealer charges up to $100 just for that.

TRD 4RNR

You guys are the best.
Thanks

HBoss

I think you need the diag computer to turn the check engine light off. Most places charge at least $30-$40 just to do that for you.

TDiddy

Pulling the fuse for around 30 minutes *should* at least reset the light. If the code still shows up, it will turn the light back on after 2 or 3 'trips'. (I believe they define trip as starting the engine and running it until it reaches a certain temp, and then shutting it off again).

If it was just an air filter thing, then it should go away, if not, then it probably wasn't a problem with air flow in the first place.

rimpainter.com

Pulling the neg on the battery should work too, unless its a "legitimate" reason and the problem still exists.

MTL_4runner

I had a problem with my O2 sensor and I was ble to turn the check engine light off with just pulling the fuse for less than 2-3 min. When the check engine light came back on later (after about 2-3 trips) that was when I knew it was a valid code and it needed to be pulled. Plugged in a reader, pulled the code, told me exactly what was wrong, I replaced the sensor, pulled the fuse again and the light never came back on again.

TRD 4RNR

I've had this happen before. I usually mention the light when I take the truck in for an oil change. They charge me for an hours labor, tell me they couldn't find anything wrong, reset the light and I'm on my way. (Minus $50 or $60 bucks)

Then it comes back on at some point, usually when I doing something off-road. They recheck it (usually without more $$$) and the saga continues.

I think it has something to do with the Supercharger. But I'm not sure.

Mike

TDiddy

Ohhhh, you one of THOSE guys.....


Agreed.


Yepper. 2-3 min should be fine, I just threw out 30 min. because that's the most time I've heard.

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

will cover up that annoying little light nicely so you don't have to see it on your dash!

Seriously, I hope you figure out what is wrong before you give any more $$$ to the stealership.



Brian

HBoss

I said the above because my friend's Nissan Maxima had the CE light on. We left the negative off the battery for hours but it came on immediately afterwards. He had to take it to the dealership to get it diagnosed & reset.

MTL_4runner

If you enjoy modifying your truck and saving money in the long run then get a code reader. The check engine light doesn't come on for no reason and the exact conditions at the time the light came on are stored in the computer. I have yet to see the light come on and not produce a code but there is always a first. I can't tell you the number of times I have not only fixed my own truck with it but many a friend has asked for assistance too. It is THE most imporant tool in my rollaway bar none. Without it you are just taking shots in the dark at fixing it or are letting a potentially damaging (could be harmless) problem go unchecked.

The best readers are the Palm Pilot or PC based ones because they provide the most info when connected. I found the simple readers way over priced for what they do. At about $200 for a good code reader, 3 trips to the stealer and you would have paid for it already. Even works awesome for buying used cars (you should see their face when you whip out your Palm pilot and connect up to the vehicle............it is priceless).

Check out some of the screens I pull up on mine:









.....and you can see more live data functions here:
http://www.auterraweb.com/scantoolsoftware.html

Very cool feature (dynomometer):
http://www.auterraweb.com/dynosoftware.html

TRD 4RNR

I have a Palm - Tungsten T
Where would I buy the software and cable?
Thanks, Mike

rwmorrisonjr

Had a check engine light on after my SC install, went to the dealer to check it and it was $85 for them to tell me I left an electrical connection unplugged. That was my stupid tax for the weekend!:pat:

MTL_4runner

CABLE:
The cable is easy, any palm serial connect cable will do.
Just go down to where you bought the tungsten and pick one up or get one off Palm's website.
They will look like this:



OBD ADAPTER:



Ebay is the cheapest place to get it (they usually end around $190 - 210):

http://search.ebay.com/search/search...&query=auterra

....or you can get it off of your their website (think it is $269? now or $289? with a serial cable):

http://www.auterraweb.com/scantools.html

You will love it in color, I use it on my M515 and it looks sweet (I must admit I am a bit jealous of your Tungsten). You can download the software for free and try it out in "demo mode" by just clicking the checkbox when you open it on the Palm.

Here is the software:
http://www.auterraweb.com/lib/auterr...lmSoftware.zip

I swear by mine now.....best money I ever spent.
It is even small enuf to bring on road trips for "just in case situations"
.....or to check on gas mileage (yep, it does that too!).

MTL_4runner

If anyone needs help picking one out or using it, just shoot me a PM.

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

I used to have a Palm #? but I got one that was in my phone and now I just have a basic cell, I changed jobs and didn't need all that stuff anymore and I sold it for good dough on Ebay.

What is the most basic model of the Palm that is out these days that will run the software and has the proper connections?

What would you recommend?

Thanks!



Brian

MTL_4runner

The Palm III are absolutely dirt cheap (some less than $10 if you look hard) and will run the software just fine. I must say the color screen is very nice to have especially on the graph section. The Palm IIIc are very cheap for color (about $50 if you are patient) and even used Palm m130 and m505s are quite cheap on ebay if you take your time. Many of the lower end color Sony Clies (T615, N760c, N710c, N610c etc..) can be had for very little money (near or just above a Palm IIIc price maybe $60-70) as well as a variety of Handsprings (B/W visors can be as low as $10) while the Visor prism in color is likely around the same price as the color Clies.

Bottom line if you want to be really cheap about it then get a Palm III or a Visor.
If you want to pay a bit more for the color one, there are quite a few to chose from.
If it were me, I would go color......but that's just me.

Birdman

Very nice....something else to empty my wallet.....

Tacoma Dude

Exactly what I think everytime I visit here
MTL - I think I may actually go buy one of those things.
My code reader is good but I think I'd like to know what's actually causing the problem instead of the vague "fuel valve" reason it keeps throwing at me... or is that all it will give?