Lurch

Getting ready to replace the front rotors and pads on my '99 4Runner SR5 this weekend. I'm expecting it to be no big deal -- jack it up, pull the wheels, remove the old rotors and pads, replace both and >presto!< I have new brakes. Right?

I've been warned to suck out some of the fluid from the reservoir prior to compressing the calipers, but other than that, is there anything else I should be aware of? My shop wanted something like $750 to do the job, and I just couldn't bring myself to pay that.

Is this really gonna be that simple, or should I rethink the task before me?

Thanks,

Don

SLC Punk

I had a problem getting the bolts that hold the calipers off. I had to use PB blaster and then get my big 1/2" ratchet to get them off..

Other than that, it was easy.

Roadtripr

hm.. I am planning to do that too, unless it requires bleeding. Any input on what to expect would be great.
$750 sound excessive, I think it is more like $200 job.

Masato

you've pretty much got it figured out. Brakes are really easy to do - especially discs. One thing I do when it comes time to load new pads is to use a C clamp to push the caliper piston back down - you'll find that if you don't do this, you'll have a much harder time getting the loaded caliper reinstalled. Afterall, your brakes have worn down a considerable amount by now and thus your caliper piston is further depressed than when new. This explains why some people bleed some fluid out of the master cyclinder because as you push the piston back, the fluid in the line has to go somewhere. I usually wrap a bunch of rags around the MC so that the fluid being pushed back up the lines just spills over and gets absorbed by the rags. If you do manage to spill any of the brake fluid anywhere in your engine compartment, rince it thoroughly with eater. Now would also be a good time to take your rotors to a local machine shop to be resurfaced if they show any signs of scorring or warping. Its a cheap service to pay for and will ensure a nice smooth feel every time you hit the brakes. Oh and FWIW, I use genuine parts since I've found they are the best value. They are so thick compared to most of the stuff in the aftermarket and for a few bucks more, why not go with the stuff that's going to last longer. Just my $.02.
Have fun.

Roadtripr

my rotors are too warped and resurfacing would be a waste of time.

MTL_4runner

If they are warped at all, just toss em and get new ones.
Doing front brakes are about as easy as it gets provided no rusty hardware....rears are a bit more PITA.

RockComa

If not removing the rotors you don't even have to remove the caliper. Just pull the paper clip looking retaining ring and slide the pads in and out. Thats how I did it on my tacoma and it still gives you enough room to use a clamp to comrpess the piston if needed

Lurch

Thanks, guys. I'm not expecting any real problems, but it's always nice to pass it around and see if anything comes up (like rusted hardware, nasty springs, etc.)

-- Don

Lurch

UPDATE:

Well, we gave it a run but fell flat.

We jacked up one side and could NOT get the bolts loose that hold the caliper in place! No room for an impact wrench, but a breaker bar would've worked. Unfortunately, in order to use that, I'd have to have the truck on a lift or be working in a pit. No room to swing a bar.

So, unless anyone has any other great ideas, let that be a warning to others who might want to do their own brakes. :-(

superjoe83

i was able to get a 1/2 impact on my Tacoma calipers which would be about the same as yours, mine came loose with a 1/2 crapsman ratchet, try turning the rotor to get the caliper to stick out further so that you can get some kind of bar in there, and there's one more possibility that you may have been trying to turn the bolt the wrong way, if you are looking at the drivers side caliper from outside the wheel well, if the ratchet is pointing to the back of the truck then you will have to push down on the ratchet to loosen them, and will have to pull up on the passenger side, I'm not trying to doubt your mechanical ability, but it happens to the best of us

MTL_4runner

If they are rusted, hit them with some PB Blaster or WD40 for a few days to loosen them up and soak the rust thoroughly. Also be sure you are trying to loosen the bolts that hold the caliper to the spindle and not the bolts holding the 2 halves of the caliper together (just want to make sure). Then turn the wheel all the way to the right if doing the passenger side brakes (vice versa for drivers side) and this will give you room to get an impact gun onto it. It should come off after less than 15 sec of hammering on it with the gun (there is a locking compound on the threads).

Bigblock

seems like to me you can the steering wheel all the way and easily get a breaker bar on it.by the way fluid should not run out of the m/c unless you added some in the past.

Lurch

Like I said, "... unless anyone has some other great ideas ..."

Turning the wheel, huh? Duh.

Oh, well. I called a shop and they're gonna call me tomorrow with an estimate to do the job. I was initially turned off by the first estimate of $700+ from a different shop, so I thought I'd just do it myself. We'll see. At this time of year, if it's a couple hundred, I'll just let them do it.

As for removing the other bolts (the ones that hold the two halves of the caliper together), been there, done that. Another duh. I took out the bolts and saw drip-drip-drip ... quickly replaced the bolts! That's when I realized that you remove the entire caliper.

Maybe I should invest in a Chilton's ...

Thanks everybody for the help. If the estimate's too high, I'll give it another whack.

Literally.

--Don

X-AWDriver

$750 for a brake job?

Brakes Plus replaced my rear axle seals,new rear diff fluid of course,new brakes all around and new front rotors,brake fluid flush and using my supplied oil and filter changed my oil and the total price was under $670.

FattyCBR

It is a tight fit, but I was able to get a breaker and cheater bar out underneath the front bumper to break them loose. Once you get the caliper loose don't forget to suspend it or tie it to the upper control arm so you don't bend or crimp the brake hose.

Kcannaday

I was able to get a 1/2 impact on mine when I did my fronts brakes a few weeks ago, the only problem I had was the bolt that holds the bracket for the brake line to the front strut, I had both of them break off. I just drilled them out and used a bolt, lock washer & nut in place of it!

Good Luck

Lurch

UPDATE ...

OK, the clown at the shop never called me back with an estimate, so I just turned the wheels all the way one way and did one side, then the same on the other. Took about 1 1/2 hours for the first one, half-hour for the other!

The biggest frustration was the rods that have to be removed that hold the pads in place. Even with penetrating oil, it took several big whacks with a hammer to remove the upper pins. Lower ones were OK. Once I accomplished that, it went more smoothly. Looking back, I think I would've been better to have removed the pins while the caliper was still bolted on, rather than to have unbolted the caliper first and had to support it while teasing out the pins.

I wasn't sure I got the pads in correctly (inner and outer ARE different!), but everything seems to work OK. No ABS light. It stops when I step on the pedal. What more could I ask?

Thanks, everyone, for the help. If the shop guy ever does call, I can't wait to tell him that I just did it myself instead of waiting on him to call ...