ripper7

Is there a know problem with 4runners front brake rotors? I called a shop yesterday asking about a brake job, told them it was shaking when i pressed on the brakes and told them it must be warped rotors. they said they would turn the rotors but could not guarantee it to stop shaking because there was a know problem with the 4runners rotors.

any truth to this? quoted price $70 front pads, $70 labor & $90 each for OEM rotors. what do u guys think about the price?

thanks

excableguy

my wife drives a '97 and it also had a brake shake in it. From what I researched here and there, it is a little bit of a problem--some people will recommend buying new OE rotors and pads if there is a shake, but I went with a mid-grade after market pad and had a friend who owns a shop turn my rotors. He also couldn't make any guarantees on the rotor turn, but so far It's been ok for the last 10-15k. Hope this helps

ripper7

I have to get the pads replaced anyway.. but it has gone form $150 to $330.

hross14

i would and many people have thus far gotten Akebono Pads and Brembo Rotors off of TireRack.com and been happy. The price for the rotors is about what you would pay for Brembo's and many a people have had good luck with them.

Side Note:Now might be a good time to start learning how to wrench a little bit. It is a really easy job. What you would be paying is what it cost me to do the Tundra Up Grade. Just .02$

ripper7

I wrench in the past but for $75 labor I rather pay someone else to do it. They did qoute me non oem rotors for $60. I'm just making sure that there was a problem with the toyo rotors being bad.

hross14

I see. What kind of rotors are they getting you and what kind of pads? If they get brembo--i am pretty sure their mark-up will be in the 30-40% range. I am also weary of shops and what parts they are using. Why--because they are trying to make money and cheaper parts means more money for them.

See your point but i would ask what kind of parts they are putting on there and research the quality of the part for yourself.

Good luck

Midget96

When you buy Brembo, you're just paying extra for the name. I still can't figure out why people insist on them so much. Their rotors certainly aren't any better than something decent from an autoparts store. If you can get Brembos for an incredible price (check Honda Tech sponsors section), then do it, but don't lose sleep over the brand of rotor you get.

I recommend a mid priced Raybestos rotor (the cheaper ones are indeed junk bi-metal). They're just as "good" as Brembo, but they're easier to get and a bit cheaper. The hats are usually painted black on the newer batches, which I think is a nice touch.

Hawk LTS pads are fantastic for the money. Much better stopping power and fade resistance over stock.

Change the brakes yourself. It's literally removing 2 bolts and a wire retaining pin to change pads/rotors on each side. For the price of the parts and some decent tools (if you don't have any) you could still do it cheaper than a shop.

Lug nut torque is what "warps" 4Runner rotors. Make sure you properly torque your wheels and bed the pads correctly and you'll have zero issues. I have 170K on stock rotors with no vibrations at all...

QSVeilside

Midget has an interesting take on the subject.

My opinion is that the truck, (for its weight), comes from the factory with some undersized brake components. When you offroaders start throwing on bullbars, roof racks, tow packages, undercarriage protector skid plates, sound systems, etc, the problem is exacerbated.

The rear drums often times are out of adjustment. In which case your front rotors do all the work to stop the truck. Check your e-brake clicks. More than 5 clicks = rear drums out of spec. I found Bamachem's writeup to be very helpful - doesn't involve any tools. It didn't work at 5mph, so I accelerated to 10mph in reverse before yanking the parking brake. 5 clicks on the e-brake max now.

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f16/adjusting-rear-drum-brakes-easy-way-43741/

Info on Brembo blanks, why they are functionally superior to your average rotor, and why you should stay clear from CS/slotted rotors.

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/show...ghlight=brembo

QSVeilside

Midget,

I like your reasoning. In fact, there are many people that complain of having warped rotors immediately after swapping their old ones out. Probably has more to do with what you said than it does with heat generated, drum adjustment, proper break-in period. Although all of these factors can affect the life of the rotor.

It'd be interesting to see if there's a higher incidence/correlation of warped rotors shortly following rotating tires, or changing tires... I think we would be surprised to hear the results.

cackalak han

I agree with Midget. I have always gone to Autozone for their Duralast rotors. They've got a 2 or 3 year warranty on them for any warpage, so if they warp, take them off and return. I've always been pleased with them.

And seriously, do this yourself. It's a 20 minute job.

hross14

The reason i say Brembo is not because of the name--but the idea that everybody here on the board has had good results with them.

I have had the pleasure of Duralast stuffs and cant say i really like there goods. Name doesnt mean anything to me--but quality does. I know i probably pay a little more but they seem to be tried and tested.

Now that i know abou the Raybestos--i might start recommending those. Heck i am American--i want the best for as little as possible!!! LOL

Cheers

cackalak han

So did you test out their rotors? Many of the guys that track their cars (I used to have an Integra Type R) used Autozone rotors with NO issues. Now these are multiple laps around a race track. Brembo's, Raybesto's, etc. all performed the same, but Autozone's were readily available and usually cheaper. I know I was very satisfied with Duralast rotors.

Ironmike4x4

I wrench for GM but I will say Duralast rotors are a waste of money unless you don't mind changing your rotors often. The last thing I want to do is work on vehicles after 11 hours of it at work. Do a search for the tundra calipers if you have 16" wheels. If you have 15" wheels then from what I've read get some brembo. As far as the drum brakes I don't recommend the driving in reverse and pulling the e-brake method as mine overadjusted and burned the pads as well as I had to turn the drums. No the wheel cylinders were not frozen as I initially thought that was the case with my drums. Some drums are self adjusted by simply pullling the parking brake some are adjusted by simply driving in reverse and hitting the brake pedal. I personally use my parking brake out of habit when parking.

tom_mag

I bought the brembos and they warped on me after about 5k miles. Over torqueing can cause warping, but so can undersized hot brakes and thats what this truck has. If its just me in the truck I don't notice the throbbing but as soon as I get one or two extra people in the car the extra weight really exasperates the problem. I have a light weight non-SR5 model, but I do "spirited driving" when I'm in a hurry and thats what kills them. Its poor engineering on Toyotas part. These vehicles are downright perfect except for the brakes.

CJM

Brembo rotors, hawk LTS pads. The pads are also the problem, the yota oem pads are to hard of a material.

hross14

P Nut-- had a 240SX i used to autocross and i never had any probs with the rotors on it either. But i will probably never have a prob again because i did the Tundra up Grade. So far so good, but that is unfair of me to say that since they are actually not stock.

Ripper, whatever you do i just suggest quality parts and buying a torque wrench--have started to retorque my lugs whenever i have anything done on to them.

Good luck