FaYgo

been searching for 2 hours, havent found a thread yet that sheds any light on the subject.

so here is the back story:

about 4 months ago i had a flat tire..( irrelavent) i had one of the shop guyd i work with put my runner up on the lift to take the wheel off, and low and behold
my front brake discs looked like there was a mini grand canyon forming on them

that day i drove down to Florida and on the way there my pedal got soft, and when i pressed the brakes the truck would slow down but it wouldn't stop all the way. i.e. still sliding.

so when i got back i replaced the front pads and rotors and then my problems started.

even with new pads and rotors the pedal was still crap and i had to pump the brakes..

so i replaced the master cylinder and rebled the system.... brakes are still crappy only now it has a hard as rock pedal at first then it eases into mush and then about 1" before i hit floor it starts to break heavy.

thought it was the booster (because of hard pedal) but i haven't replaced it because they are like $700

spent the last 6 days bleeding the brakes out b/c i figured it was air in the lines. went through about a gallon and a 1/2. back brakes were awesome. i can bleed them for days and there is nothing but clear fluid. the front brakes on the other hand arent so hot

got some speed bleeders for the fronts to make things easier. when the pedal is pumped up or depressed and the bleeder is opened it inly pushes like an 1" of fluid through the tube . also if you pump the pedal any faster then about 1 pump every 10 secs the pedal loses functionality and goes to soft crap mush.

one last thing i put two 4 liters of fluid through the fronts and every time there are thousands of tiny bubbles coming out of the caliper some times its a few and other times there are so many it looks like milk coming out.

also, i sealed the threads around bleeders . and when i tried to use vacuum on the lines it wont pull anything out.

sorry for such the long post but i wanted to make sure i included all the info.
oh yea and i replaced the MC again 5 days ago.

any help would be much appreciated.

quattro

I'm thinking you might do well to invest in a pressure bleeder. You can find the cheaper ones from MovIT (I think that's the name) - which works just as good as the BluePoints & SnapOn units for home-repair.

You're not going to like this suggestion but, if after using a pressure bleeder to get the fronts properly bled (it's the bulk of your braking and fluid demand); I would be heading to the yard to replace the calipers.

On my '97 4Rnr Ltd, I found a used set of rotors, calipers from the V8 Tundra (see threads on this board) and they bolted up in 15mins a side. I used a cleaning disck / suffing pad on the rotor to get the surface rust off and have been happy ever since. I only paid like $75 for everything including the used pads which only had 10k on them. They're still working like a charm.

Of course you can replace like for like at probably a lower cost...

The only other thing I will tell you is that just because a replaced part was new in box - doesn't mean it's not malfunctioning. BTDT MANY TIMES. A favorite of Audi (most of my background) is the phrase "replace with known good" which has NOTHING to do with being new.

04 Rocko Taco

Unfortuantrely, I know you dont want to hea rit, I think I amy have to agree with Quattro on this one.

FaYgo

any ideas what could be causing all those bubbles though?... i thought it may be a leak at first but i don't lose any brake fluid when i am daily driving.

rimpainter.com

Also, once the fluid is "clear" as you bleed, just reuse it. No sense in going through 18 bottles of brake fluid.

bballchrism

i dont know if this is the promblem when weh did the breaks on my 4runner the first bracke master cylinder was bad so it might be that
but i am not sure