arjan

My engine has been noisy for a while, but the mechanic at the dealership figured it was carbon buildup and sold me a treatment for that.
Tonight I was taking a closer look at the engine and noticed some moisture next to the rear passenger side cylinder.
Looks like my headgasket is leaking. I did a search here and found that some of the '97s were covered under a recall. The date in my door jam says 9/96 so in that sense I think mine should be covered. I had the dealer check my vin about six months back and they replaced my rear springs, but never mensioned anything about the headgasket. I crossing my fingers that I'll be covered.
Since it's leaking externally can it still leak internally and cause damage? I'm wondering if the engine noise is related.

I added a pic which I took about 15min after I shut off the engine. Most of the moisture was already evaporated.

Maybe somebody else can shine some light on this


Arjan

pat317az

Well I'm certainly no Tacoma expert, but I am a decent Mechanic. I looked at the pic, but I really don't see anything that looks out of the ordinary. I'm sure its more visible in person, but are you positive that its actually leaking out of the head and not moisture from some other source? If you aren't sure, you could watch your coolant level like a hawk, and let that be your guide.

As far as coolant leaking into the engine also, its possible I suppose. Keep an eye out for oil on the dipstick or under the oil cap that looks like chocolate milk. If it does, that means coolant in the oil.

As far as the engine noise, I would doubt it but you never know. What kind of noise is it? The only noise I could think of a head gasket causing would be for it to be leaking enough that the cylinder wasnt firing, but thats quite a leak, so not likely.

hope that helps some

Breezey

there was a recall on all the 3.4's ... call toyota with your VIN number to see if they will replace it for free...

I already got mine done along with a new water pump and timming belt..

MTL_4runner

I noticed you are in Canada. They have different recall notices up here than down in the US so I will be curious to see what they will cover. I believe most 96-97 (US and Canada) are covered under the warranty so you should be ok there. I would certainly use the coolant level in the overflow tank (mark the level with a sharpie) as a guide to the severity of the leak. Don't wait too long because it can fail more severely over time, starve the engine of coolant and destroy a motor.

arjan

Thanks for the replies, I'll keep you updated.

By the time I took the pic it had dried up quit a bit. Since last spring the engine has a loud knock when you keep the rpm steady @ 3000rpm & higher. I hear it when shift between the moment when then engine is under load and when you breaking on the engine. It is hard to explain for me (english is still my second language).
I notice it when driving in the city and hold in the gas just enough not to speed up or to slow down while keeping it in second or third gear. It does it also in 4th & 5th but by then the wind noisy drowns most of it out.

I am sure I confused the heck out of most of you by now, so I'll stop.
I wonder if there is a phone number higher up in the toyota chain I could phone if the dealer won't cooperate.

By the way, Jamie is right that I am also up in Canada. I guess we deal with Toyota Canada. I hope we get treated the same on headgasket issues.

arjan

I just checked with Toyota & the headgasket recall has already been done on mine. Seems like I'm sol.
I was a carwrecker last week and the had a couple of 3.4L engines there. One is a 2001 with only 20000km on the clock.
His asking price was $2500. I made a deal for the engine, e-locking diff, & front diff to match the gears of the locked one all for $2500 Cad. The clutch is left on the engine also. I think that should last me awhile and I don't have to worry about replacing a clutch and a timing belt in the near future (my 4runner has 150000km).

MTL_4runner

Man.....$2500 CAD is a smokin deal for all that stuff!!!
You will need to switch over sensors but other than that you are set.
Nice find.

arjan

Thanks Jamie,

I realize that the wiring is different. I read that the MAFs are different, so I figured the computer setup is probaly different. I'll just unplug the existing harness and lay it on the windshield. Most connectors are different from one and other so going by the wire layout, length, and connector it shouldn't be too hard. If there is something that might look confusing or similar I'll take a pic and/or label the connector. I was looking at the front diff. and it will probaly be a lot easier to change that out when the engine bay is vacant. Until I'll do the rear diff. I can't really use the 4wd unless it's a sandy or slippery situation. I just talked to the guy and he said I can go dig for the lock switch, control box and required harnass also.
He had a total of three e-locking diffs, I'll ask him what he wants for them if anybody is interested.
He also had two V8s, one from a tundra, and one from a '03 4runner (didn't take them long to smack that up: 2000k)
I think he wanted $3500 for the tundra engine. That was very attempting, but I can't afford to have no vehicle for a couple of weeks, maybe months. That sure would be nice to put in my runner though.

its2slo

i would take the harness out with the engine and make the necessary changes with them out, and then put the new one in. if its anything like mine you will find yourself re-using a lot of the parts off the one you are replacing, including the, alternator, starter, etc...the injectors changed in late 98 too. good luck.

unless they are both 97's.

welcome to the 2 bad hg's on 3.4's club. mine was internal and hydrolocking though..

arjan

Jake,
did the connectors on the fuel injectors change? I guess it's not too much work to get the connector from the ecu out. That would make it a little easier. Should I plan on changing the injectors or they will work with my existing ECU. I guess when the flow rate is the same it should be no problem.

Arjan

MTL_4runner

its2slo is right, you will basically just be using the new longblock and that is it.
Most of the electronics will be completely different (MAF, IAC, TPS, injectors, you name it).
Just reuse your complete old intake and you should be set.

pat317az

That sounds like a good deal on the engine and all, but can I ask why you are convinced that your head gasket is going out? It very well may be, but I prefer to know that something is wrong before dropping money on it. The fact that many 3.4's have this problem is not enough to convince me (then again I am sceptical by nature) so don't mind me.

:alien: :alien:

its2slo

no, they will plug in but because the part numbers are different i was worried about the spray pattern being different and my truck not running right. i didnt feel like doing it twice to find out or buying an ecu. thats just what i did though.............

MTL_4runner

sorry, the injectors will work fine for all 3rd gens.

arjan

Well, I picked up the motor & diffs today. Unfortenately I couldn't find the wiring harnass for the e-locker. The guy at the wreckers told me to phone him later in the week because they're getting more vehicles in. If that doesn't pan out I'll just get the under truck harnass & the dash switch and use the relay setup to run the diff. Simple wiring for me since I hookup climate control computers in greenhouses for a living.
The gear ratio I have is 4.30 which will probaly over correct my speedo to the positive side. My truck came with 15" steel wheels and is geared somewhere in the high 3s. Since I put 31" tires on my speedo has been reading somewhat low, but I think I can go to 32" tires now with no problem. Next mod will be ome and maybe a 1.5" R Brown bodylift. I might be able to clear 33" then? If somebody knows I would appreciate the feedback.

They also had a seqoia? (spelling doesn't look right). I right away noticed the rear disc brakes. I am 95% sure those will bolt directly onto the 4runner axles. They also have the E-Brake cable hookup which some other solutions lack. I asked for a price but they didn't want to separate the axle from the brakes since this can be used by a bodyshop to fix a bent rear axle.
It is something to keep in mind for me, because I've looked at rear disc breaks before.

MTL_4runner

If you figure that one out I want to see a writeup!!!!!
I hate drums but rigging an e-brake is a PITA.
If the Sequoia has discs I am all for it.

arjan

It honestly looked pretty straight forward to me. The four bolts holding the back of the drum brake on, hold the caliper & rear protection plate on the sequoia (thanks for the spelling ). The disc slides onto the studs. The mechanical cable might even fit to the splitter bracket under the 4runner. Then it is just hooking up the hydraulic brake lines. The abs sensors are mounted on the axle the same way as the 4runner's are.

I soon as I overcome the financial deficit caused by the engine, I might go bug the guy at the junkyard or price the parts from toyota. OME lift comes first!