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3VZE Igniter Help

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Old 03-03-2005, 10:38 AM
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3VZE Igniter Help

Truck won't start, spins like crazy. Worked great till now.

Coil and Distributor check ok and I'm getting juice to the coil but no spark.

Does anyone know how to check to see if the igniter is ok?

I've not been able to find any testing procedures.

I don't wnat to start throwing parts at it.

thanks
Old 03-03-2005, 11:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Marc
Truck won't start, spins like crazy. Worked great till now.

Coil and Distributor check ok and I'm getting juice to the coil but no spark.

Does anyone know how to check to see if the igniter is ok?

I've not been able to find any testing procedures.

I don't wnat to start throwing parts at it.

thanks
Greetings,
Are you sure it's the ignitor? The reason I say that is that you said the truck turns over real fast and that's a sure sign that the T-belt let loose. Anyhow, To see if it's the T-belt, take off the distributer cap and make sure that the rotor is spinning, if not well, it's the T-belt. A sure sign that the ignitor went bad is: 1. You have no spark anywhere - coil, plugs..., You should be getting voltage at the Ignitor. It's been awhile I have to think about it. Don't forget to check your fuses as well> I'll get back to you.
Old 03-03-2005, 12:14 PM
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My thought as well but rotor turns. I should have said engine turns over well.

Any help would be appreciated. I can't find any checks for the igniter except swapping another in (which I don't have).
Old 03-03-2005, 12:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Marc
My thought as well but rotor turns. I should have said engine turns over well.

Any help would be appreciated. I can't find any checks for the igniter except swapping another in (which I don't have).
ok then, here we go so stand by:
If the ECU fails to see an NE or G signal while it's cranking it will not produce an IGT signal thus preventing Ignitor Operation.
IGF to ECU: IGF tells the ECU that a spark has occurred. If after 8-11 times the IGT signals are sent to the Ignitor without receiving an IGF confirmation the ECU enters a Fail-Safe mode shutting down the injectors to prevent catalyst overheating, you should have a code stored on your computer for either no IGF signal, G or NE signal, I don't remember the code for it anymore.
There are only (3) wires coming from the Ignitor to the ECU - one is a IGT, one the IGF and one is the ground, on the other side they go to the coil.
To put all this info together A. you should have a code if indeed it is an Ignitor. You could clear the code by pulling the EFI fuse out for awhile and trying to start it again, but if it is the ignitor they don't fix themselves. Don't overlook a bad ground at the coil or ignitor either.
To test the coil, pull the connector and there are 4 pins - G1, G2, G and NE.
there in a 4 pattern like this:

G1 NE
G2 G
connect a multimeter across G1 & G and G2 & NE, on the secondary windings your looking for 10 - 14 Ohms, on the primary windings your looking for .40 - .50.
That's right Alex, I'll take the Ignitor for $100!
Yeah, I'd go with the Ignitor, very common. Especially the no spark condition like you described. Don't forget to clear your codes! You can try clearing your codes and then try to turn it over, Check for spark on the 1st try, if you get it then lose it, it's your ignitor>

Good Luck!
Old 03-03-2005, 01:28 PM
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Man - thanks for the info. I'll get to work now.
Old 03-04-2005, 11:59 AM
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Hi Nunsa. My primary coil resistance is .7 ohms cold, spec is .55 max.
Do you think it's out enough to cause a problem?
Old 03-04-2005, 12:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Marc
Hi Nunsa. My primary coil resistance is .7 ohms cold, spec is .55 max.
Do you think it's out enough to cause a problem?
When they make specs in OHMS usually there's also a temp spec at which the spec falls. In the case of readings for a coil it is 70 degrees.
The lower limit on the primary coils is .40 OHMS @ 70 degrees. I don't know where your located at but here in "Rustavania" it's 34 degrees for a high.
That's a difference in OHMS of .33 ohms, which is enough to cause a problem provided it is around 70 degrees. I bet you if you warm it up to 70 it will fall into spec for the reason being that as you know as metal heats up it expands and cools down it contracts. Make sense? I'd re-check it at 70. I still think that it's the Ignitor.
Good Luck Marc!
Old 03-04-2005, 12:42 PM
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I'll bring the coil inside and check it. I picked up an igniter at Napa and no luck.
Thanks again.
Old 03-04-2005, 12:49 PM
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ALso check the pigtail on the distributor...Mine was doing the same thing on and off intermittenly and i tore the thing apart looking for the problem...turned out the pigtail was slipping just enough to cause it to disconnect...I was reading a code 12 for the distributor circuit..Good luck Marc.

Last edited by ctcost; 03-04-2005 at 06:35 PM.
Old 03-05-2005, 09:28 AM
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Truck started finally. Thanks for the help.
Heated up old coil to 90 F and primary was .3 ohms.
Put in new coil and it started right up.
Hope it isn't some other intermittent problem.
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