98LimitedCustomized

Okay so I finally found a front diff and rear axle with 4.30's and E-locker, and only had to drive 250 miles to get them! I'd like to get the parts themselves prepped and have everything parts & knowledge wise ready so I can do it all over a weekend with no road blocks.

First, how should I paint/finish them? The rear axle is fairly rusty. I was considering cleaning it up well with a wire brushes with drills/grinder, followed by a rust type primer, followed by multiple coats of enamel and/or bedliner. There's also the possibility of Por-15 or it's equivalents, but I'm not so sure about that.

Second, while they are out and easy to work on, should I replace things like the differential cover seals, oil seals, etc? It's hard to tell if there are any leaks now, they're pretty grimy. They have about 100k on them, while I have 150k on my rig.

Third, what parts or special tools will I need? I know I'm going to be buying a new torque wrench (any suggestions? Craftsman? Husky?), as well as a big 1/2 breaker bar, but anything else a guy wouldn't normally have? How about parts to get the locker rockin? I'm working on the computer and switch, and have found a source for some 6 wire cable.

General suggestions? I know this is long, but I like to be thorough. I understand there is a lot of information on YT, I've searched and read, but I don't have time to go back in sift through everything. I appreciate any help you can give!

wjwerdna

well, I'd change the fluid while you're at it, maybe pull the covers just to give them a visual look over... While I haven't used POR-15, I haven't had any luck with grinding, primer, and paint/bedliner, so I'd go with the POR-15 if it were my project

curious, where'd you find the stuff?

and any details on the alternator install?

dont know if you all ready have this info, also don't know if it helps

98LimitedCustomized

I didn't have that info, thank you! It reminded me I need to order the connectors for at the locker itself from the stealer.

I found the parts using car-part.com, and lots of patience. I think it was $650 or so for the set. The place I got it from kept only mechanical stuff, and sent everything else to the crusher so I didn't get a computer or switch

Let me know what you'd like to know in regards to the alternator setup. I forget the casing number, but was at an auto electric shop today and I think I may stop back and verify what it is. For how easy a mod it was and the benefits it gives, I think I'll see about doing a semi-writeup in the next week or two.

wjwerdna

cool, glad i could help with that part, for the alternator, a few pics or link to would be awesome

98LimitedCustomized

Bueller? Bueller?

ADH8796

I just did this I swapped front and rear with new 4.30's and Elocker so if you have any questions just PM me I'll be happy to help you out.

rimpainter.com

I've done this swap as well. Hardest part for me was swapping the front diff from one rig to the other. Other than that it's pretty straight forward. Sounds like you have the wiring situation under control (which was my other little hitch). There is a 3-way brake fitting that mounts on the rear diff that I managed to strip out, so be careful with that. The soft line made R&R somewhat difficult; $30 part at the dealer.

The only other thing I would say is to rig up some sort of holding device on your floor jack that will prevent the rear diff from clocking too much as you go to install it. I am thinking a tranny jack would be good or maybe a chain somehow.

Oh, and you're going to want some Mechanix gloves. Trust me.

paddlenbike

iTrader: (1)

Link to an Ebay auction for an OEM switch and ECU. (Not mine, just saw it online.)

98LimitedCustomized

Thanks for the comments guys... Christian, what exactly was the hard part of switching the front diff? I've looked through the Haynes manual and it looks challenging but doable. For the rear, I had planned on having the donor sit on jack stands and use a floor jack to move it up one "click" at a time on the jackstands until it's the right height. I agree a tranny jack would be much better though, not sure I can line one up however.

ADH8796

For the front you basically need to take the skids off then tires and then CV's which is a pain if you don't have the correct size socket then the unbolt the front diff from the front two bolts which is no big deal then unbolt the last bolt that comes through the frame cross bar only problem for me was I had to go out and get a big allen wrench to fit for that bolt. Also don't forget to undo the driveshaft and the yoke thing that the drive shaft bolts to. Last but not least un-plug the breather hose and electrical (the electrical is bolted in with like a 10mm bolt. Sounds easy but it's time consuming for sure. Oh and I would second the gloves, you will be so dirty when your done it's crazy.

rimpainter.com

For me it was just getting the new diff up in there. The fit was VERY tight. I had to benchpress that darn thing up in there. I put some good scratches in the oil pan. You'll see.

BTW, a body lift makes this process a lot easier. But that might be irrelevant at this point.

wjwerdna

so this may sound dumb... the 4.3 gears are standard in the 4runners with a rear diff lock?? I guess I always assumed they were the same?

98LimitedCustomized

Almost all locked 4runners came with 4.30's, but there are some who have a locker and 4.10's from the factory. I find it strange they went with an odd size gearing, instead of offering 4.56's with a different tire size.

rimpainter.com

Auto tranny's tended to be 4.30 and Manual tranny's 4.10. At least that's what I found out. My combo is pretty rare (4.30 + MT), but that's because of my swap.