3rd Gen Auto Trans Drain/Flush/Pan Drop - What do yall do?
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3rd Gen Auto Trans Drain/Flush/Pan Drop - What do yall do?
So went and got my oil changed today, usually just go to Precision Tune (I know, I know ). Anyways, the guys there recommended what they call a "Transmission Fluid Exchange". Now I know most people try to haggle you for your money and sometimes what they try to get you for is something you don't necessarily need and plus I wasn't there to see the color of the fluid. But I got to thinking... 130K miles, haven't done it since, I think it might be time. So here's where my question comes into play. I've researched a bit on here and yes I found some good information and links to do the job (Drop and/or Flush) but what I actually want to know is how many people do their own jobs vs taking it in to the dealership or a toyota specialist (I wont be taking it to Precision Tune for it, trust me ) Also, I've never done it before and I don't quite think it's just unplug, drain, and refill like oil change. How long of a job is doing a complete flush (maybe drop the pan?...takes longer) and since I've never done it before would you recommend me doing it. I'm not completely maintenance ratard and do have experience with some things, just not the trans. I just am afraid of getting ripped a new one at the stealership or yota specialist if I can do it myself for cheaper. Thanks guys.
#2
Actually a drain and fill is exactly that easy. It's easier than an engine oil change, no sideways filter to make a mess. I've drained and filled my trans about 5 times so far. Never pulled the pan. It doesn't look like a big job but I'm not a fan of scraping gaskets off over my head.
#3
Actually a drain and fill is exactly that easy. It's easier than an engine oil change, no sideways filter to make a mess. I've drained and filled my trans about 5 times so far. Never pulled the pan. It doesn't look like a big job but I'm not a fan of scraping gaskets off over my head.
Yup, easier to drain and fill than oil. BUT, if you don't drop the pan and mess with the gasket, you can't clean the filter screen. It's worth taking the pan off to do that at least once.....then drain and fill a couple times after that to get a fairly complete fluid exchange. Unlike engine oil, you can't drain nearly all the trans fluid out in one shot...too much stays in the torque converter and transmission itself.
#4
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I did everything in that write up you linked to and it took me about 5 hours to do the flush and everything. Worst part was laying under the truck and scraping the FIPG off the tranny while ATF drips in your face. You'll need a good torque wrench too because you need to torque the pan bolts in a certain order and then do it again at a higher torque. It's difficult to line up the pan with the wet FIPG and wedge it and yourself under there, line it up perfectly, and hold it in place while you get a couple of bolts in there without smearing the FIPG and before it dries too much. Definitely get a buddy for that part.
#5
I've dropped the pan twice and would agree with the 4-5 hour estimate. That includes scraping off the old gasket materials and cleaning the pan and filter. While I was at it I added a transmission cooler and inline filter. With the help of the various post and folks on this board it was pretty straight forward. BTW, I used a rubber gasket. That made it easier to line up the pan without messing with the canned gasket material. No issues thus far.
#6
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I've dropped the pan twice and would agree with the 4-5 hour estimate. That includes scraping off the old gasket materials and cleaning the pan and filter. While I was at it I added a transmission cooler and inline filter. With the help of the various post and folks on this board it was pretty straight forward. BTW, I used a rubber gasket. That made it easier to line up the pan without messing with the canned gasket material. No issues thus far.
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I did it and it was a PITA but worth it. My tranny was feeling a little rough, and after filter and fluid started running like new again. I too used the gasket, scraping other peoples mess off is really frustrating.
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#8
I've dropped the pan twice and would agree with the 4-5 hour estimate. That includes scraping off the old gasket materials and cleaning the pan and filter. While I was at it I added a transmission cooler and inline filter. With the help of the various post and folks on this board it was pretty straight forward. BTW, I used a rubber gasket. That made it easier to line up the pan without messing with the canned gasket material. No issues thus far.
Just a parts store rubber gasket? Or a Toyota one? Just wondering, cause I'd like to use one myself, if they don't leak.
If you did get a parts store gasket, which brand is it? Thanks!
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Hmmm, I drained and refilled my trans a couple months ago.....of course all the manuals tell you that 2.1 Q's will come out, wrong, it's about 4.6 Q's. Also I used Valvoline ATF, guess I should do it again and use yota ATF....It also may help to get some more of the old dark fluid out. I'll shoot for pulling the pan off around 150,000 miles??!!
Good Post!!!
Good Post!!!
#10
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Hmmm, I drained and refilled my trans a couple months ago.....of course all the manuals tell you that 2.1 Q's will come out, wrong, it's about 4.6 Q's. Also I used Valvoline ATF, guess I should do it again and use yota ATF....It also may help to get some more of the old dark fluid out. I'll shoot for pulling the pan off around 150,000 miles??!!
Good Post!!!
Good Post!!!
#11
i have 150k on my 97 runner. bought it used about 4yrs ago and it had bout 120k. im wanting to replace my trans fluid. my 4runner actually shifts pretty good and smooth. but i don't know whats been done to it. should i just drain and refill fluid or should i remove the pan/clean/refill. i won't flush since i think it might be a bad idea. i do not know which method would be best for me. the fluid is really dark red but i don't smell anything weird or burnt. but i do think its time to do something. ????
#12
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I would drop the pan and change/clean the filter since the fluid is really dark. Then maybe follow it up with a simple drain or 2 a week later until the fluid looks clean. Even when you drop the pan you only get about 1/3 of the fluid out, the rest stays in the torque converter and the cooler lines.
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ok, well all this is some good feedback. I'm not scared to do it I just don't wanna mess anything up is all, especially on something so critical for the truck. I'm gonna get some quotes for taking it in for both, the flush and the drop pan, as well as gather the separate prices to do each one myself. I'm really not looking forward to a pan drop if I don't have to and while I can most likely handle both jobs, to do this on my own I rather do just the flush. If I really need to drop the pan then I'll most likely take it in. I shouldn't though, the tranny shifts fine and works as it should. I still need to check the color though. Just need to take care of normal maintenance. Let me know what you guys think. Encouragement gets the best of me but don't say go for it just to watch me fail
Last edited by JWaldz; 03-31-2010 at 10:34 PM.
#14
If your fluid looks good and everything seems to be running fine I think you could just do the drain and fill or flush using the cooler lines. If you want to drop the pan and you feel confident about doing it (no one here wants to see anyone fail, we are on here to learn and help others learn) I would suggest this, get the truck parked where you are going to do the work, where you are not going to have to move it. Drain the pan the night before so the next day when you drop it the dripping should be pretty much done. That way when you get under there to scrape the old gasket off it may not be as bad. While you are under there draining pull one of the pan bolts out. Find 3 or 4 new bolts the same size in diameter and thread but longer by 1.5-2 inches and cut the heads off. Use these bolts as guides when putting the pan back up. This will help a lot if using the FIPG but will still help if using a rubber/cork gasket. You only have to worry about pushing up, the guides will keep it from moving side to side. That said, like I mentioned before I have not pulled the pan on one of these before so maybe the pan has to be tilted or angled sharply to remove/install and the guides will not work or will have to be very short otherwise they will get in the way. Good luck and let us know what you do and how it goes.
#15
I have done the pan drop and flush twice using the rubber gasket. The first, i ran 50,000 miles with no leaks before the 4Runner was totaled. On my current 2000 4Runner I am at a total of approx 113k miles with about 38k miles on the rubber gasket. No leaks or issues thus far.
Like a few others on the board, i installed an in-line magnefine filter and change every 10k or so and drain and fill periodically. As long as I have no tranny issues and no chunks in the in-line filter, i have no plans to drop the pan again. I dropped the pan primarily for peace of mind and to learn something new.
I have cut the magnefine filters open (sorry no pictures) and found a very fine metal "paste" on the magnet, similar to the stuff found on the magnets on the bottom of the pan magnets. Fortunately no chunks of metal.
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That's very possible, I wasn't aware that the newer A340Fs were any different fluid-wise. I know T4 in my '97 wouldn't work so good cuz I have a buddy that mistakenly did that in his '98 tacoma and the tranny died within a year.
#18
read how to do the pan drop but kinda nervous about doing it...i just dont want to mess anything up since this is our main family vehicle. maybe im just being weak minded. drain and fill seems so simple. do you think just doing this a good 3 to 4 times would be a better idea or should i opt for the pan drop??? ahhh...do you get out about the same amount of fluid by draining compared to dropping pan or no?
Last edited by hdoggie24; 04-01-2010 at 09:29 AM.
#19
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You'll get about a quart or so less fluid out if you don't drop the pan. The main reason is to inspect and clean or replace the filter. You can also get an idea of what kind of shape the tranny is in by whether or not there are chunks in the filter or if it's really dirty. If it runs good, draining and filling a few times will probably be ok, but there's no way to know if the filter is properly doing it's job still if you don't look at it.
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I just flushed my tranny last week @ 182k using the cooler line method. Took me about 45 mins. I dropped the pan once @ 121k and only had a light paste on the magnets and replaced it with a rubber gasket. Has never leaked once.
I first had it done at 35k and put in synATF at that time. A/T tranny has ran flawlessly since. Its pulled boats and climbed the hills to the ski slopes never missing a beat.
I use Mobil1 and get it localy (Freddy's aka Krogers) for 6.49qt... figure Ill drop the pan next 60k just to wipe it out again..
I first had it done at 35k and put in synATF at that time. A/T tranny has ran flawlessly since. Its pulled boats and climbed the hills to the ski slopes never missing a beat.
I use Mobil1 and get it localy (Freddy's aka Krogers) for 6.49qt... figure Ill drop the pan next 60k just to wipe it out again..