turboale

Ok, so here is my question. I'm going to be upgrading my wheels/tires soon and have been pondering between 32s and 33s. I'm planning on keeping my stock wheels and keeping the stock size Revos on them for trips and use them most of the time, but for trail days and days I just want to be a bad azz I'm gonna get some rock crawlers and some MTs. Between the loss in mpg, loss in acceleration, quicker tread wear, potential rubbing to the loss in wet traction you get with big MTs... I think I'll keep my revos for the most part (I LOVE THEM). But here is the question. As you can see in my sig I will have adjustable ride height in the front and the diff drop so I should be ok with rubbing in the front. I have the HD OMEs and HD bills in the rear. I should be able to clear 33s right? I guess rubbing is the biggest issue here since I'll have the other set when I need to save some gas money .

What do you guys think?

TDiddy

Get the bigg'uns!!

Trim your mudflaps and the front valence, and rubbing goes right out the window.

doink

if you are just gonna get a set of wheels for trail riding/badassness. why dont you get some swampers instead of m/t

jacksonpt

for what it's worth... you'll only get another 1/2" of ground clearance with the 33s.

Victor

285's or 33's is my vote. I'm going 285 next time for sure.

wimpywade94

im not sure why your debating over 1 inch actually, your not achieving that much more, what i would do is find a tire you want, and by the cheaper of the 2 sizes....

just make sure its aggresive!

later
wade

03_4x4Runner

every inch counts. Plus 33's are usually wider tires. Plus when you have them next too each other the 33's usually look alot bigger. I would go for the 33's If you don't mind the power loss

Hyperlite

Austin, I would recomend 33s, there are two sizes i could have got 285/75 or 305/70. They are not standard sizes for 33s. Each tire manufacturer are different. They are both 33s according to BFG, but the 285s will not rub as much. The rub with my 305 was rediculous and it took more than minor trimming to clear these meats and they still rub. I removed at least an inch of metal by grinding for 2 hours. I also used a hydralic ram jack to bend the bottoms of the fenders in. I think this was way to much work and they still don't fit. I ordered a corfed 1.5 inch spacer to hopefully stop rub forever. I don't think my winch makes my rig weigh that much more than yours so I would go with 285, they are just as tall but a little less wide. If I had to do it again I would go with 285s
FYI like the others said an inch bigger tire will give you an .5 inch at the top of the rim and .5 at the bottom.

Hyperlite

stay with your tires you have now and get a Detroit Locker

Stump1883

Turo,I say go with the 33s/285s/. I was in the same boat about a year ago and I went with the 32s. I love them they looked HUGE compared to my stock tires, but in my mind I wanted that extra .5" og ground clearance(I never complained about ground clearance, but bigger is better when were talking badazz rigs here) and I really wanted the extra 1" of width. The Rcok Crawlers will give you alot of stick out from the fendrs with the backspacing but once again more is good. I love the wide stance, it makes it loo glued to the terrain and unshakeable.

GO FOR THE BIG BOYS.

Mad Chemist

Get the 33's- I was in the same boat, have Bridgestone AT Revos on the stock rims, and ended up buying a set of 16X8 Tech1 Rockcrawlers with BFG MT's. I've still got the Revos for long trips, but I LOVE the look of the big rubbers! Definite loss in power, and I'm installing a tranny cooler this week, but do not plan on regearing, I don't think its necessary.

Darren

It looks like you've decided to go with 285's, but I guess my question is what do you consider 32's? It appears as though you have 16" wheels, so I'm not sure what the metric equivelent is of a 32. 265/75's are 31's, to be blunt. They are not 32's, contrary to what most say or round up to based on the published measurements. 285's are pretty much exactly 2" taller and the gain on ground clearance is exactly 1". And mounted on the truck, 265's will sit around 30" while 285's are ~32". Just clarifying.

turboale

Jon,
Was the rubbing from turning the wheel (ie rubbing on the inner wheel well) or from articulation...? Because you loose a good inch or two with the tjm alone (well mine weighs even more with the hoops) I should have the downeys and the diff drop by the end of the month, so I can just crank those up til my cvs say NOOO! I guess my question is that do you think they will still rub without doing all that griding when your truck is back to normal lifted height? I also have plans for a winch, but the downeys have 0-4inches of lift so I think I should be good even with a winch.

And as for why not superswampers... I don't know of any... are they much more in price? Oh, just remembered... my friend's mom runs the caddy/gmc delaership here and would get me the tires at whatever cost she gets them, so I might end up going with the MTs. Well, i'm off to get my poor revo patched so I can hurry up and wear them out and get new ones! (heheh, i love tread wear warrenty)

Hyperlite

http://www.bfgoodrichtires.com/asset...rain_ta_km.pdf

285s and 305s are both 33.1s When I first got my tires I couldn't even turn the sterring wheel a full turn. Going perfectly strait I had no rub. I don't think the height is an issue as much as the width. I still don't think it would fit with factory bumper. If you crank the Downeys to 4 inch you might need new CVs the second you put it 4wd. Save up 500 bones and buy some newfeilds from CV unlimited because they are designed for rock crawling and can handle "extreem angles" and then crank those guys up.

Mad Chemist

With my 285's, I get rubbing when the wheel is turned. I've trimmed some plastic off, and will probably get a little creative with a BFH on the pinch weld to get a little more clearance. Offroading, I didn't notice the rub much at all. It seems like usually when you're going over some real nasty terrain and flexing, you're trying not to turn the wheels too much anyways to avoid busting your CVs, so by default you avoid the wheel position where rub occurs. Even with the rubbing, I don't want to throw on a bodylift and raise the center of gravity of the vehicle any higher than it already is. I have saws up front, so with my TJM any sag wasn't an issue. However, if you have some sag, your rubbing will definitely be worse on turning.

NCSU-4runner

get the 33s, if you rub you can always do a body lift, its cheap and effective.

Scottiac

I'm in roughly the same boat as far as wanting two sets of rims/tires and not knowing the size on the offroad set.

The one thing that concerns me on the 33's is the spare. Do I wanna have to keep it on the roof?!? I'd have to remove my hitch to fit a 33 (badly) underneath, and I like the minimal armor it gives me!

Gearing sounds like it's no sweat, and rub has been solved a million times, so the spare is my boggle. Just in case you haven't thought about that one.

(My wish list is too long to contemplate a rear bumper w/ rack any time soon.)

4runner4me

At the bottom it says you have 6+ I am guessing this is lift. If you do yave that much lift I am guessing you have a 3 inche body lift and 3 inche suspention. What exactly is your current setup that you are rubbing so bad with the 305s. I have 880 spring up front and a 1 inche corfed spacer right now. I am getting ready to put on a 2 inche body lift and getting 305s. I think I should have plenty of room and should not have to trim at all. You have more experence with 305s what do you think.

4runner4me

I live in raleigh now and was wondering if you knew anyone that would do a good job installing my 2 inche body lift.


thanks sorry to get off the subject

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

Do it yourself dude! It's easy with a few tools! Check out my write-up on my website below. Hope this helps!



Brian