22RTE idling problem
#1
Contributing Member
Thread Starter
22RTE idling problem
Just got an 87 pickup, and its got the 22RTE in it. Very nice, but sometimes it has trouble idling when it is first started. THere is a sticker on the glove box saying that one should let it idle a few minutes before shutting it down, but that doesn't help. Anyone else experience this problem? thanks
#2
Registered User
Originally Posted by AxleIke
Just got an 87 pickup, and its got the 22RTE in it. Very nice, but sometimes it has trouble idling when it is first started. THere is a sticker on the glove box saying that one should let it idle a few minutes before shutting it down, but that doesn't help. Anyone else experience this problem? thanks
Before I start rambling like a mofo, does this rough idle occur during the warm-up period only, or does it have a rough idle at normal operating temperature as well?
#5
Contributing Member
Thread Starter
84sr5yoty:
Yes, it is only during warm up. The truck will rough idle and die during warm up. It's fine at operating temp.
1987 street toy:
What is the Tps?
p5150:
piping is fine, however, hose from turbo to intake has been connected in the middle, is this bad? The connection does not look secure, but haven't figured out yet if it is or not.
Yes, it is only during warm up. The truck will rough idle and die during warm up. It's fine at operating temp.
1987 street toy:
What is the Tps?
p5150:
piping is fine, however, hose from turbo to intake has been connected in the middle, is this bad? The connection does not look secure, but haven't figured out yet if it is or not.
#7
Registered User
Ok, if it cranks and fires within a few turns of the starter, then we can rule out the cold start injector and time switch. That leaves the air valve and the passages in the throttle body. It may also indicate the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) is out of adjustment. For adjustment of the TPS, give this link a reading.
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/TPS/index.shtml
I''m going by non turbo EFI, so this may be a little different. I'm not sure how much experience you have on these motors, so I'll try to keep it simple. If I offend you due to my simple explanations, I appoligize in advance
There is a large intake hose going from the air filter housing to a chunk of metal called a throttle body. You only need to remove the end going to the throttle body itself. Poke your finger around the left side of the throttle body and you should feel a few (2 or 3) small orfices around there. These lead to the air valve which allows extra air to enter the throttle body to slightly increase the idle when the motor is cold. It also controls the amount of air for the idle itself as well. These orfices get clogged over time from dirt that happened to pass the air filter as well as blow-by vapors from the crankcase.
Get a can of throttle body cleaner from the auto parts store that is oxygen sensor and catalytic converter safe. Remove the hose leading from the thottle body to the air valve. You don't want the cleaner getting in there and shorting out the air valve. The air valve looks like this.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...spagename=WDVW
It is the one with the hoses comming out of it. The other part is the TPS
Give all of those orfices a good shot of cleaner and make sure they are free and clear. While you're at it, get a clean rag, liberaly shoot cleaner on it, open the throttle all the way and clean on and around the butterfly valve. You should get a bunch of black crap on the rag. Keep at it until it's clean. Hook everything back up in reverse and you're done.
After the cleaning, your idle may go much higher than before because you now opened, or unplugged, the orffices. This is normal. Just adjust the idle back down.
Let us know how it turns out!
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/TPS/index.shtml
I''m going by non turbo EFI, so this may be a little different. I'm not sure how much experience you have on these motors, so I'll try to keep it simple. If I offend you due to my simple explanations, I appoligize in advance
There is a large intake hose going from the air filter housing to a chunk of metal called a throttle body. You only need to remove the end going to the throttle body itself. Poke your finger around the left side of the throttle body and you should feel a few (2 or 3) small orfices around there. These lead to the air valve which allows extra air to enter the throttle body to slightly increase the idle when the motor is cold. It also controls the amount of air for the idle itself as well. These orfices get clogged over time from dirt that happened to pass the air filter as well as blow-by vapors from the crankcase.
Get a can of throttle body cleaner from the auto parts store that is oxygen sensor and catalytic converter safe. Remove the hose leading from the thottle body to the air valve. You don't want the cleaner getting in there and shorting out the air valve. The air valve looks like this.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...spagename=WDVW
It is the one with the hoses comming out of it. The other part is the TPS
Give all of those orfices a good shot of cleaner and make sure they are free and clear. While you're at it, get a clean rag, liberaly shoot cleaner on it, open the throttle all the way and clean on and around the butterfly valve. You should get a bunch of black crap on the rag. Keep at it until it's clean. Hook everything back up in reverse and you're done.
After the cleaning, your idle may go much higher than before because you now opened, or unplugged, the orffices. This is normal. Just adjust the idle back down.
Let us know how it turns out!
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#8
Banned
if it is still rough after doing what 84sr5yoty said, take some starting fluid and spray around the intake and the vacume lines to look for a leak. You will find a leak when the rpms suddenly go higher when you spray a particular area.
#9
Registered User
this doesnt have to do with your idle problem but you mentioned about it saying to let your truck idle for a while before you turn it off, it is very important that you do that and let it run for at least a couple minutes before shutting it off, if not your oil will coke (clog up) the oil lines in your turbo and cause your seals to leak and eventually kill your turbo.
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