Alimony

I installed a 2 speed fan from a 95 Sable this weekend on my 22RE.

It wasnt a real piece of cake as there isnt really enough room between the radiator and waterpump to put it but I was able to make it work.

The wiring from the Hayden fan control was pretty straight forward.


I didnt use the zip tie thingys. I screwed the fan assembly to the radiator, I think it will make it more secure.

I will say there is a difference in throttle response, not sure about any difference on the road yet as my test drive was very short.

I'll be happy to do a write up if any of you 4 cyl guys are interested.

Alimony

seafarinman

Was wondering whether you used the low speed setting like I did or the high speed? I am planning on hooking up the high via a DPDT switch so that I can swap from low to off to high as conditions warrant. I got mine from a 95 Merc Sable as well. Way cool...

Plays_with_Toys

Do you have pics on your 4cyl? You say the space was real tight in there, how so, was it rubbing or was it getting it in there that was tough, or what? I'd like to hear more about performance gains!

Mack

"Tell me more Buana" Jim Carey in The Mask

I am curious.. please do a write up

Alimony

I used the low speed setting because I read somewhere that that was enough air flow. My A/C doesnt work so I figure that's gonna be enough...but I left it to where I can add the high speed if needed. Time will tell.

I took my radiator completely out and screwed the fan to it. When I went to put it back in it wouldnt fit. The fan motor was hitting the waterpump, and the studs that hold the pulley to the waterpump were in the way as well.

My solution was to replace the studs in the waterpump with regular bolts, that gave me about 1/4". Also the fan motor is bolted to the shroud, and the shroud has spacers molded to it that set the fan motor about 1/4" away from the shroud. I took a hacksaw and cut those spacers off and rebolted the fan motor without spacers. The isnt even enough room the put my finger between the waterpump shaft and the fan motor. If/when I have to replace belts my radiator has to come out to do it.

I do have pictures and will do a write up as soon as they are developed.

As far as performance gains, like I said, I was only able to make a quick test drive. I did notice better throttle response but wasnt able to take it to an open road. The gains I did notice were nothing compared to the deckplate mod I did.

New paint comes next!! Cant wait to see the performance gains I get from that!

Alimony

4BangR

Sounds great Alimony! I added that to the To Do List. How much did it cost you all together?

PirateFins

Pics man we need pics!! And what is this deck plate mod that you speak of for a 22RE??? got any pics of that??? And last but not leaste performance on the road with the new fan?? Gas milage etc....

Alimony

The fan cost me $40.00 from the junkyard. I decided to go with the Hayden preset control. It comes on at 185 degrees and I really didnt see any reason to have to adjust it, I may regret that later. Part # is 3652 Thermostatic Fan Control. Got it at the parts store for $24.00 I think. I didnt use the zip ties I used screws. So with coolant and the works maybe $70.00. Took me altogether probably 4 hours to do the whole thing.

I drove it to work this morning so I was able to really see how it worked. Just with the low speed setting being used my truck kept a steady temp reading and ran cooler than it did with a brand new clutch fan assembly. I wouldnt say I found a ton of hidden power but it was nice to not have to downshift as often and I didnt chug up that one hill like I usually do, so i'll say it's money well spent. I havent had it on long enough to tell whether I gained or lost any fuel mileage.

As soon as the pics are developed i'll do a write up on how I mounted the fan.

As far as my "deckplate mod"....
My airbox is bent and doesnt seal good and i'm gonna have to replace it eventually. So I decided to see what would happen if I just cut a 3" hole down there. I didnt actually mount a deckplate (my assumption is the actual deckplate is there so you can reseal it to keep out water....is that right?) I just poked a hole.... and man did it make a difference.

Alimony

Krash

I'm just glad to hear that the stock alternator will push it... Adding it to my list of things to do.

Skydigger

Very cool Alimony. What do you drive?

I think we need a write-up for sure on this one. I always wanted a Flex-a-lite (or whatever) but couldn't justify the $300+ for it.

What is the temp. control triggered by?

Thanks,

Warren

seafarinman

The temp control is triggered by a thermo sensor that either taps into your engine block, is inserted into your radiator hose, or like I have on mine, inserts into the cooling vanes of the radiator below the upper hose. This is connected to either an electronic sensor (latter) or a bi-metal spring that mechanically switches the fan on. Here is my thread on the same topic. I guess we did ours on the same weekend!

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/show...threadid=14326

and some of my pics

http://community.webshots.com/album/81926719ZExocS

mikedog

I spent the $$$ and got the Flex 165. With the stock 195*stat and factory clutch fan, temp gauge always read between the 1/4 and 1/2 marks on the dash gauge.

Now, with a 160*stat and the Flex-a-lite fan thermostat set to 180*, the gauge hardly ever gets above the bottom most line even in 100+ degree heat.

Nice thing about the Flexalite is that I can access the front my engine alot more easily now. Fan belts can be changed now in 1 minute tops.

I can be sitting in traffic in 100+ degree heat and the Flexalite will actually cool the motor down to below the bottom line of the temp gauge. Not sure about the 22re, but I've always noticed some power loss when my water temp ran above the 1/4 mark close to the 1/2 mark on dash gauge with the stock clutch fan.

With the coolant temp running mostly cool all the time now, I no longer experience that sluggish performance feeling sometimes when the truck used to get heatsoaked in traffic.

Time for me to go back and finish the V6 caliper and MC brake booster swap......

Skydigger

Holy guys.

Remember you don't want to over-cool your motor! The objective is to get it up to operating temp ASAP and then keep it there.


Regards,

Warren

mikedog

Yes! I do agree that running too cool on a fuel injected motor with emissions is not a good thing. But remember, Toyota made these motors to run hotter than they should like all other manufacturers in the quest to pass federal emission and drivability tests.

The 22r seems to run the best at cooler temps. At least mine does. Also, I have all emission controls hooked up properly and functioning. I just passed the rolling dyno Cali smog check with flying colors recently back in April.

The Flexalite 165 adjustable thermostat can be adjusted down to 180*. With a 160* coolant stat, I think I run around 185 or so around town and maybe cooler on the highway. I usually like to set the fan switch a little higher than the coolant stat rating. This seems give me the best results. I think the bottom most line on my dash gauge is probably the 180* mark or something. Of course, you can't really rely on anything you read on these gauges as the complete gospel truth if you know what I mean.

Running cooler enables me to dial in more advance and with the 89 octane I run, I never get any detonation any more.

I don't think you can ever run a motor too cool. I mean the operating temp will alway stablize to a certain extent. However, if you live in a colder climate like the Artic Circle or something you may want run a alot warmer.

Plays_with_Toys

Wow, that is a cool running engine. I don't think I would ever run it that low, unless you have some very thin motor oil. I would think running at low temp like that wouldn't allow motor oil to get circulated as well and would increase wear. As far as the 22R, mine doesn't run right until I get it past the 1/4 mark. But wouldn't that make sense on a carbureted engine?

mikedog

Hey Plays_with_Toys!

So, your 22r doesn't run right until above the 1/4 mark on the gauge? Your talking about the temp gauge not the fuel gauge right? Just Kidding

What do you mean when you say your truck doesn't run right? Lack of power? Hesitation? Just wondering. Are you still running the stock 195* stat?

I guess it's a trade off if you ask me. Run too cool, you might accelerate engine wear due to reduced oil viscosity, run too hot and you increase viscosity too much which causes it wear too.

Today's synthetics do address some of the short-commings inherent in dino oil. Unfortunately, engines do eventually wear out. No way around that. Well maybe not the Toyota 22r, but other motors.

I don't think I'm gonna put synthetic in my 400K+ motor unless I want to rebuild it very soon. I wanna see if I can get a 1/2 million miles out of her before I do the 7M-GTE swap.

Whenever my coolant used to get kinda hot, I always experienced a slight power loss and it became somewhat sluggish in performance around town. I always hated that.

With the setup I have now, the electric fan hardly even operates because of the new radiator and a 160* stat.

Plays_with_Toys

Its a feeling in the pedal. Its harder than normal to push past the cruise point I guess would be a name. The pedal feels more resistant after about 1/4 of depression, when at operating temp, but before I get to 1/4 mark on the temp gauge that point is more distinct and is harder to depress further, and if I do push it down further, the engine actually bogs down and seems to accelerate no quicker than it was before where at normal operating temp I can get get a little kick out of the engine. That's more of an issue in winter, since my engine warms up in about 1-2 min during the rest of the year.

castrolSi

I did this with an electric fan I had lying around, that had been in
several different cars. I installed it, and the clearance was TIGHT.
Matter of fact, after driving it a short distance, under high torque
takeoffs (lotta throttle to get moving from a stop on a hill) I could
hear the water pump bolts hitting the fan. It only did this a few
times, and then chewed a rut in the back of the fan to clear. Works
perfectly now.

I did notice a HUGE difference in gas mileage however. I also put
a switch on the ground wire in the cab, so I could turn the fan off
if ever in need of doing a water crossing.

~Wade

ravencr

I went to junkyard today, but I could determine two things:

1) Whether the engine was a 3.8 liter V6 or not
2) How the two wires coming out of the fan consists of a high and low speed wiring configuration.

Anyone know if there should be more than two wires coming out of the motor, which owuld make sense to me.

Chris

MTL_4runner

1) Here is a pic of a 3.8......should be pretty obvious when ya find one:



This is the 3.0 (I think this has the 2 lead fan)



2) I think the right fan has a 3 wire configuration (someone plz verify this for me too before I start huntin' for one). Seems like the 3.0 was the far more common engine.