2001 Tacoma Automatic dies when put in drive..help
03-20-2010, 06:10 PM
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2001 Tacoma Automatic dies when put in drive..help
I need so help, I am at a loss.
My 2001 automatic Toyota Tacoma dies when I put it in reverse or drive.
My truck has been running well until today. When I was driving it the tranny felt funny. It was almost like I was in a higher gear than I should have been becuase the truck was sluggish when I accelerated. When I got up to speed it would shift very hard into the next gear. I pulled off the road and came to a stop and the truck died.
I restarted it and put it into drive and it automatically dies. put it in neutral and pushed it to a gas station. The truck idels fine and everything seems fine when I hit the gas. Put it in reverse or drive and it automatically shuts down. it almost lunges a little.
Torque converter?? solenoid? (my truck threw a shift solenoid code 3 weeks ago but cleared itself after a few days)
Help!
My 2001 automatic Toyota Tacoma dies when I put it in reverse or drive.
My truck has been running well until today. When I was driving it the tranny felt funny. It was almost like I was in a higher gear than I should have been becuase the truck was sluggish when I accelerated. When I got up to speed it would shift very hard into the next gear. I pulled off the road and came to a stop and the truck died.
I restarted it and put it into drive and it automatically dies. put it in neutral and pushed it to a gas station. The truck idels fine and everything seems fine when I hit the gas. Put it in reverse or drive and it automatically shuts down. it almost lunges a little.
Torque converter?? solenoid? (my truck threw a shift solenoid code 3 weeks ago but cleared itself after a few days)
Help!
03-20-2010, 10:36 PM
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make sure all your vacuum and intake hoses are connected.. I just helped my cousin with his altima cus it was doing the same thing and it happened to be caused by a popped off intake hose. Hope you figure it out, good luck.
03-21-2010, 05:15 AM
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X2 on enough ATF? Does the 2001 have the ECT (do you have the ECT POWER switch on the dash?) If it is ECT, your shift points should be controlled by the ECU, indicating possible electric or solenoid problem. If it is not ECT, everything is done by pressure and vacuum, not enough ATF usually causes uncontrolled downshifting at higher speeds, not the opposite.
Could be the torque converter lockup clutch stuck engaged - would cause stalling, harsh shifting, and lower than normal RPM's.
I guess X2 on checking the rad for milkshake - I sure hope not for your sake though.
Which code? Got a number & description? That code that cleared itself might be your only clue...
Could be the torque converter lockup clutch stuck engaged - would cause stalling, harsh shifting, and lower than normal RPM's.
I guess X2 on checking the rad for milkshake - I sure hope not for your sake though.
Which code? Got a number & description? That code that cleared itself might be your only clue...
Last edited by Beto; 03-21-2010 at 05:16 AM.
03-23-2010, 01:03 PM
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08-14-2013, 11:33 AM
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Sorry, i know i'm bumping a three year old thread, but OP describes exactly what my brother's 01 is doing, was there ever any resolution or has someone else solved this issue before?
Putting it in D, 2, or L makes no difference, it still stalls out, i have enough ATF, no codes for the transmission, and no milkshake issue.
Putting it in D, 2, or L makes no difference, it still stalls out, i have enough ATF, no codes for the transmission, and no milkshake issue.
08-14-2013, 02:34 PM
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99% sure this is a lock-up clutch not disengaging. It should also stall out if you put it in reverse.
If you can manage to get the truck rolling and in gear, it will be sluggish (basically lugging the engine).
Not sure about the fix for this, but there is some hope that it is an electrical issue- the clutch is engaged and disengaged electrically by the ECU.
If you can manage to get the truck rolling and in gear, it will be sluggish (basically lugging the engine).
Not sure about the fix for this, but there is some hope that it is an electrical issue- the clutch is engaged and disengaged electrically by the ECU.
08-14-2013, 03:34 PM
#10
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99% sure this is a lock-up clutch not disengaging. It should also stall out if you put it in reverse.
If you can manage to get the truck rolling and in gear, it will be sluggish (basically lugging the engine).
Not sure about the fix for this, but there is some hope that it is an electrical issue- the clutch is engaged and disengaged electrically by the ECU.
If you can manage to get the truck rolling and in gear, it will be sluggish (basically lugging the engine).
Not sure about the fix for this, but there is some hope that it is an electrical issue- the clutch is engaged and disengaged electrically by the ECU.
Also, if i do get the truck rolling, as soon as it gets in gear, it immediately dies, so im fairly sure its a trans problem, just as you think.
Last edited by jb451; 08-14-2013 at 03:36 PM.
08-14-2013, 03:52 PM
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This might help:
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h16.pdf
I don't know how many solenoids you have, but 5 sounds like a lot. It should be 3 or 4 according to the manuals. Luckily, the one you are interested in (the lockup solenoid) is located externally to the transmission according to the link above.
FSM suggests ECU is the first thing to check in the case of lock-up clutch not disengaging. A little more investigation, and you should be able to measure the voltage on the solenoid and/or on the ECU pins to see if it is getting a lockup signal or not.
The doc I linked isn't very clear- depending on transmission type, it could be a normally open or normally closed valve - is it powered to lock-up or powered to disengage? You might be able to unplug the solenoid valve connector if it requires power to lock-up to see if the stalling goes away. Then you'll know if it is the solenoid or the ECU.
*edit* and, I know that there are a few "mandatory lockup inhibit" signals to the ECU, one of them is coolant temp too low, another is brake pedal applied. I assume it stalls out as soon as you put it in gear, not as you release the brake? I have a little mod to my truck to prevent lock-up clutch from operating above 60% throttle position because of pinging with my supercharger. Basically, I have a little circuit that watches my throttle position and tells the ECU that the brakes are applied any time I am above 60% throttle opening. *end edit*
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h16.pdf
I don't know how many solenoids you have, but 5 sounds like a lot. It should be 3 or 4 according to the manuals. Luckily, the one you are interested in (the lockup solenoid) is located externally to the transmission according to the link above.
FSM suggests ECU is the first thing to check in the case of lock-up clutch not disengaging. A little more investigation, and you should be able to measure the voltage on the solenoid and/or on the ECU pins to see if it is getting a lockup signal or not.
The doc I linked isn't very clear- depending on transmission type, it could be a normally open or normally closed valve - is it powered to lock-up or powered to disengage? You might be able to unplug the solenoid valve connector if it requires power to lock-up to see if the stalling goes away. Then you'll know if it is the solenoid or the ECU.
*edit* and, I know that there are a few "mandatory lockup inhibit" signals to the ECU, one of them is coolant temp too low, another is brake pedal applied. I assume it stalls out as soon as you put it in gear, not as you release the brake? I have a little mod to my truck to prevent lock-up clutch from operating above 60% throttle position because of pinging with my supercharger. Basically, I have a little circuit that watches my throttle position and tells the ECU that the brakes are applied any time I am above 60% throttle opening. *end edit*
Last edited by Beto; 08-14-2013 at 03:55 PM.
08-14-2013, 04:22 PM
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Okay, so the truck being a 2wd it has three solenoids,of which number 3 is the lock up solenoid. My brother's truck has an a340e in it, which is an "open" solenoid.
08-14-2013, 04:28 PM
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So, still some minor question on whether an 'open' solenoid is power to lock or power to un-lock, but pretty safe to assume that it is power to lock...
In which case, pulling the electrical plug on it could narrow down if it is the ECU or the solenoid. Tapping the solenoid gently or applying (the correct) voltage to it to cycle it open-close-open-close a few times might temporarily fix the problem if the solenoid is stuck closed.
In which case, pulling the electrical plug on it could narrow down if it is the ECU or the solenoid. Tapping the solenoid gently or applying (the correct) voltage to it to cycle it open-close-open-close a few times might temporarily fix the problem if the solenoid is stuck closed.
08-14-2013, 07:00 PM
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Beto, after reading your link you provided, i'm pretty sure you are correct-
So i know that the truck "feels" like it is taking off in third or fourth in any gear selection, so the thought that one or both of the solenoids (number 1 or 2) may be toast is not entirely right. Looking at the bottom of the chart, if i put it in "L", it should still take off in 1st or 2nd, which it obviously isn't. Is my line of thinking somewhat solid?
Also, you would happen to know what the resistance that lock up solenoid is would ya? I cant seem to find a value for that.
So i know that the truck "feels" like it is taking off in third or fourth in any gear selection, so the thought that one or both of the solenoids (number 1 or 2) may be toast is not entirely right. Looking at the bottom of the chart, if i put it in "L", it should still take off in 1st or 2nd, which it obviously isn't. Is my line of thinking somewhat solid?
Also, you would happen to know what the resistance that lock up solenoid is would ya? I cant seem to find a value for that.
08-15-2013, 03:09 PM
#16
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Crawled up under the truck, i think this is the sensor/solenoid i need to replace. Anybody know if this is it? I can't find a definite answer on where the solenoid is on the exterior of the transmission. It is about mid way down the trans, i figured it would be closer to the torque converter?
01-25-2014, 06:12 PM
#17
The black brake booster has a large vac hose that goes to the intake manifold.....there's a vacuum check valve in that hose somewhere. If it goes bad or the large hose has a crack, it might cause it to stall USING your brake pedal. To verify this try coming to a stop in gear using the emergency brake. If it does not stall then you got it pretty much under control.
09-01-2014, 07:41 AM
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I have been researching a similar problem we are having with our 2000 Toyota Tacoma 3.4L V6 Auto transmission 4x4. I pulled the transfer case off of the truck believing it was a broken chain in the transfer case but do not believe that to be the issue now. jb451 - were you able to identify if it was the bad lock up solenoid?
