2000 4runner Sr5 Rear Suspension Work And Spring Saggy Sag Awful!!!
#1
2000 4runner Sr5 Rear Suspension Work And Spring Saggy Sag Awful!!!
I let this go way too long and now the truck basically rides on the rubbers stops. It's like driving a tractor.
I bought some new oem coilovers from a fellow and have questions about the install. I also bought some air lift 1000 bags I will be doing at the same time since I don't want the new springs to go to heck when i put the moto carrier on the back...the first time I put it on I think in killed whatever spring the rears had left in them.
So heres the questions:
1-IS THERE ALREADY A WRITEUP W/ PICS ON SWAPPING SPRINGS?
2-IS IT TRUE THAT THE COILS CAN BE PULLED BY JUST JACKING UP THE REAR?---AND WHERE SHOULD I PUT THE JACK? ON THE TOW HITCH?(I'VE NEVER JACKED THE REAR TO SAG THE WHOLE AXL SO I HAVE NO CLUE???!!!
3-HOW MUCH MORE WORK ARE THESE AIR BAGS GOING TO ADD? MUST I DRILL HOLES IN THE SPRING CARRIERS???
4-WHAT'S THE ODDS THAT THE TRUCK WILL FALL ON ME IF I'M UNDER IT AND I START UNBOLTING SHOCKS AND THE LIKE(IF NEEDED)???
5-SHOULD I REMOVE THE SPARE TIRE WHEN I CRAWL UNDERNEATH??
6-ARE THESE AIR LIFT 1000s GARBAGE AND SHOULD I JUST RETURN THEM?
7-I HAD THE IDEA OF ADDING A COAT OF GREASE TO THE AIR BAGS TO PREVENT BINDING AND PINCHING?? IS THIS A STUPID IDEA???
8-IF I HAVE TO UNBOLT SUSP/AXL THINGS UNDERNEATH COULD YOU GIVE ME A STEP BY STEP???
9-THANKS FOR READING!!!!!!!!
I bought some new oem coilovers from a fellow and have questions about the install. I also bought some air lift 1000 bags I will be doing at the same time since I don't want the new springs to go to heck when i put the moto carrier on the back...the first time I put it on I think in killed whatever spring the rears had left in them.
So heres the questions:
1-IS THERE ALREADY A WRITEUP W/ PICS ON SWAPPING SPRINGS?
2-IS IT TRUE THAT THE COILS CAN BE PULLED BY JUST JACKING UP THE REAR?---AND WHERE SHOULD I PUT THE JACK? ON THE TOW HITCH?(I'VE NEVER JACKED THE REAR TO SAG THE WHOLE AXL SO I HAVE NO CLUE???!!!
3-HOW MUCH MORE WORK ARE THESE AIR BAGS GOING TO ADD? MUST I DRILL HOLES IN THE SPRING CARRIERS???
4-WHAT'S THE ODDS THAT THE TRUCK WILL FALL ON ME IF I'M UNDER IT AND I START UNBOLTING SHOCKS AND THE LIKE(IF NEEDED)???
5-SHOULD I REMOVE THE SPARE TIRE WHEN I CRAWL UNDERNEATH??
6-ARE THESE AIR LIFT 1000s GARBAGE AND SHOULD I JUST RETURN THEM?
7-I HAD THE IDEA OF ADDING A COAT OF GREASE TO THE AIR BAGS TO PREVENT BINDING AND PINCHING?? IS THIS A STUPID IDEA???
8-IF I HAVE TO UNBOLT SUSP/AXL THINGS UNDERNEATH COULD YOU GIVE ME A STEP BY STEP???
9-THANKS FOR READING!!!!!!!!
#3
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1. Go pick up a Haynes Repair manual. (this will actually answer a majority of your questions)
2. secure the rear of the truck with jack stands on the frame rails. THEN jack up the rear axle (on the differential) so you can safely lower it once the tires (etc) are off. (haynes covers all of this)
3. I don't have any experience with air bags...
4. place the tires you pulled off under the truck as well so if it does happen to come off the jack stands you have something to catch the truck other than your body.
5. remove the spare tire before you do anything
6. refer to 3
7. no clue
8. haynes manual
9. Good Luck!
If you already have the parts and have little experience and no one to help you it may be a good idea to ask a local shop how much it would cost to do this. Shouldn't take an experienced mechanic with a lift much more 3-4 hours to swap front and rear.
2. secure the rear of the truck with jack stands on the frame rails. THEN jack up the rear axle (on the differential) so you can safely lower it once the tires (etc) are off. (haynes covers all of this)
3. I don't have any experience with air bags...
4. place the tires you pulled off under the truck as well so if it does happen to come off the jack stands you have something to catch the truck other than your body.
5. remove the spare tire before you do anything
6. refer to 3
7. no clue
8. haynes manual
9. Good Luck!
If you already have the parts and have little experience and no one to help you it may be a good idea to ask a local shop how much it would cost to do this. Shouldn't take an experienced mechanic with a lift much more 3-4 hours to swap front and rear.
#5
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Agreed.
I just did the 99 swap with tokico shocks and am very happy. I gained about 1/2 inch lift in front and ~1 inch in the rear (97 4runner).
Also, instead going with the air bags you could look at heavy duty OME springs if you do a lot of heavy towing (not sure how with the 3.4 though).
I just did the 99 swap with tokico shocks and am very happy. I gained about 1/2 inch lift in front and ~1 inch in the rear (97 4runner).
Also, instead going with the air bags you could look at heavy duty OME springs if you do a lot of heavy towing (not sure how with the 3.4 though).
#6
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I had airbags on my Tundra & I really liked them. At the time there was no other alternative for the Tundra. For the 4Runner I would just install appropriate springs.
I had to disconnect my panhard rod so I could drop the rear end far enough to install my springs, but it was no big deal.
Paul
I had to disconnect my panhard rod so I could drop the rear end far enough to install my springs, but it was no big deal.
Paul
#7
-----If I unhook the panhard bar is will that allow me to lower the axl enough to pop the springs or do I also remove the swaybar linkage and bottom shock bolts???
---Does the rear brake linkage unbolt from the axl pretty easy? i don't wanna rip it off
Tom
---Does the rear brake linkage unbolt from the axl pretty easy? i don't wanna rip it off
Tom
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#9
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Read This: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f120...ion-faq-73612/
And this: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/a...eekend-141096/
I don't have pics, but here are some instructions for the rear coils:
Block the front wheels.
Use a good floor jack under the rear diff to lift the rear of the 4runner.
Use a good pair of jack stands to support the frame forward of the rear suspension.
Unbolt the lower shock mounts.
Unbolt the endlinks from the sway bar.
Unbolt the brake hose bracket from the diff.
Slowly lower the rear axle watching the brake lines, etc.
The coils will come loose.
You should be able to remove the stock coils now.
Depending on the new springs, you may have to unbolt the panhard rod to lower the rear enough to install the new springs.
Make sure the spring is oriented correctly on the seats.
Raise the rear axle & reconnect the panhard rod. You may have to shift the axle using a ratchet strap.
You can now reconnect the shocks, endlinks & brake hose bracket.
Remove the jack stands & lower the truck.
And this: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/a...eekend-141096/
I don't have pics, but here are some instructions for the rear coils:
Block the front wheels.
Use a good floor jack under the rear diff to lift the rear of the 4runner.
Use a good pair of jack stands to support the frame forward of the rear suspension.
Unbolt the lower shock mounts.
Unbolt the endlinks from the sway bar.
Unbolt the brake hose bracket from the diff.
Slowly lower the rear axle watching the brake lines, etc.
The coils will come loose.
You should be able to remove the stock coils now.
Depending on the new springs, you may have to unbolt the panhard rod to lower the rear enough to install the new springs.
Make sure the spring is oriented correctly on the seats.
Raise the rear axle & reconnect the panhard rod. You may have to shift the axle using a ratchet strap.
You can now reconnect the shocks, endlinks & brake hose bracket.
Remove the jack stands & lower the truck.
#10
I let this go way too long and now the truck basically rides on the rubbers stops. It's like driving a tractor.
I bought some new oem coilovers from a fellow and have questions about the install. I also bought some air lift 1000 bags I will be doing at the same time since I don't want the new springs to go to heck when i put the moto carrier on the back...the first time I put it on I think in killed whatever spring the rears had left in them.
So heres the questions:
1-IS THERE ALREADY A WRITEUP W/ PICS ON SWAPPING SPRINGS?
2-IS IT TRUE THAT THE COILS CAN BE PULLED BY JUST JACKING UP THE REAR?---AND WHERE SHOULD I PUT THE JACK? ON THE TOW HITCH?(I'VE NEVER JACKED THE REAR TO SAG THE WHOLE AXL SO I HAVE NO CLUE???!!!
3-HOW MUCH MORE WORK ARE THESE AIR BAGS GOING TO ADD? MUST I DRILL HOLES IN THE SPRING CARRIERS???
4-WHAT'S THE ODDS THAT THE TRUCK WILL FALL ON ME IF I'M UNDER IT AND I START UNBOLTING SHOCKS AND THE LIKE(IF NEEDED)???
5-SHOULD I REMOVE THE SPARE TIRE WHEN I CRAWL UNDERNEATH??
6-ARE THESE AIR LIFT 1000s GARBAGE AND SHOULD I JUST RETURN THEM?
7-I HAD THE IDEA OF ADDING A COAT OF GREASE TO THE AIR BAGS TO PREVENT BINDING AND PINCHING?? IS THIS A STUPID IDEA???
8-IF I HAVE TO UNBOLT SUSP/AXL THINGS UNDERNEATH COULD YOU GIVE ME A STEP BY STEP???
9-THANKS FOR READING!!!!!!!!
I bought some new oem coilovers from a fellow and have questions about the install. I also bought some air lift 1000 bags I will be doing at the same time since I don't want the new springs to go to heck when i put the moto carrier on the back...the first time I put it on I think in killed whatever spring the rears had left in them.
So heres the questions:
1-IS THERE ALREADY A WRITEUP W/ PICS ON SWAPPING SPRINGS?
2-IS IT TRUE THAT THE COILS CAN BE PULLED BY JUST JACKING UP THE REAR?---AND WHERE SHOULD I PUT THE JACK? ON THE TOW HITCH?(I'VE NEVER JACKED THE REAR TO SAG THE WHOLE AXL SO I HAVE NO CLUE???!!!
3-HOW MUCH MORE WORK ARE THESE AIR BAGS GOING TO ADD? MUST I DRILL HOLES IN THE SPRING CARRIERS???
4-WHAT'S THE ODDS THAT THE TRUCK WILL FALL ON ME IF I'M UNDER IT AND I START UNBOLTING SHOCKS AND THE LIKE(IF NEEDED)???
5-SHOULD I REMOVE THE SPARE TIRE WHEN I CRAWL UNDERNEATH??
6-ARE THESE AIR LIFT 1000s GARBAGE AND SHOULD I JUST RETURN THEM?
7-I HAD THE IDEA OF ADDING A COAT OF GREASE TO THE AIR BAGS TO PREVENT BINDING AND PINCHING?? IS THIS A STUPID IDEA???
8-IF I HAVE TO UNBOLT SUSP/AXL THINGS UNDERNEATH COULD YOU GIVE ME A STEP BY STEP???
9-THANKS FOR READING!!!!!!!!
#11
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I typically tow a 5X8 trailer and my track bike and have no problems with the 99 coils. Ride is still great.
I ordered the system 3.0 from sonoran steel and was very pleased with everything. I had the front pre-assembled and didn't have to mess with compressing the springs for the install. It couldn't have been easier.
I'll be towing a fully loaded 5x8 uhaul across the county in a few weeks and will let you know how that goes...
I ordered the system 3.0 from sonoran steel and was very pleased with everything. I had the front pre-assembled and didn't have to mess with compressing the springs for the install. It couldn't have been easier.
I'll be towing a fully loaded 5x8 uhaul across the county in a few weeks and will let you know how that goes...
#12
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You will have to trim the conical bumpstops to fit the airbags (three lower pucks I think).
It will be easier to do if you remove the bumpstops to do this (they sit loose on top of the spring anyway).
To route the airbags airlines there are holes through the bumpstops. You can route the air line through the frame and mount a shreader (sp?) valve at either the fender or rear bumper. Check that all is airtight before you reassemble the truck.
It will be easier to do if you remove the bumpstops to do this (they sit loose on top of the spring anyway).
To route the airbags airlines there are holes through the bumpstops. You can route the air line through the frame and mount a shreader (sp?) valve at either the fender or rear bumper. Check that all is airtight before you reassemble the truck.
#13
ROADTRIPR, got a question for ya. Is it possible to avoid massacaring the rubber bump stops.
**I read up on it and Toyota did a recall on the 96-97s just to add them in--Longer ones(ROLLOVER PREVENTION MEASURES).......I don't want to go butchering them incase I have to add the things back in.........TOM
**I read up on it and Toyota did a recall on the 96-97s just to add them in--Longer ones(ROLLOVER PREVENTION MEASURES).......I don't want to go butchering them incase I have to add the things back in.........TOM
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You can remove them completely and use the hard rubber spacers that come with the kit. I chose to cut mine down as I didn't remove the springs to install them (don't recommend doing it that way). Another reason was some people commented the Airlift spacers rattled.
btw, You can drive without or cut down bumpstops it is actually nice as the suspension gets to travel more over bumps.
btw, You can drive without or cut down bumpstops it is actually nice as the suspension gets to travel more over bumps.
#16
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If it isn't too late, the lowest preload OME springs will solve your problems. Without weight in the back they will ride rough. I generally run 29PSI to soften the ride in the rear. I also keep all my tools in back which weighs in at about 150 lbs which helps.
I can hang my bike on a hitchhauler weighing in at about 350LBS.
I can hang my bike on a hitchhauler weighing in at about 350LBS.
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