deathrunner

So my Runner has a tendency to have some play in the wheel. It drives me crazy because the truck will wander a little bit and to correct it I will have to "search" for the spot where the steering actually grabs. usually in this search I will go to far and need to jump the otherway to correct it. Granted this is all small movement, but it is irritating non the less.

So far I have rbuilt the idler, replaced the pitman, replaced the stabilizer, and adjusted am adjuster screw on the steering box. As far as I can tell it is not after the pitman arm. The play seems to be between my steering wheel and the steering box. Is it possible to have a bad steering box? How expensive is it rebuild or replace my box? Also what adjustments can I do to try to correct this. Thanks -Seth

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

Mine drove the same way up until I rebuilt the front axle and replaced everything, seals, knuckle bearings, wheels bearings...I attributed the play to what was obviously knuckle slop.

Good luck.

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

With the '89, you have different steering than the '85. See if the play in yours is in the steering shaft (there area couple of u-joints, a slip joint and a rubber rag joint) in the shaft that could all have some play. I have an extra steering box rebuild kit for the '88 and later boxes if you are looking to rebuild yours (e-mail me for details) and they can be rebuilt (http://128.83.80.200/taco/box.html). Or you can get a rebuilt box for about $250.

SoCal4Running

Welcome to the world of long travel. How are the tires wearing?

Do these trucks have a rag-joint in the shaft?

Flamedx4

Another commonly overlooked item is to be sure the steering gear is centered when you are going straight. If it's a bit off, it results in a odd feel. Kind of like it responds instantly when correcting one way, but there is a bit of "delay" when it responds the other way. Most people describe it as simply wandering or not wanting to go straight without tiring constant corrections. ('Most people' don't analyse what things feel like well enough to give a decent decription of their problem...)

I lived with that for years on my lifted 85 until I finally had an adjustable drag link made. With the 86+ this really shouldn't be an issue, but it can be if the tie rod ends were ever replaced or adjusted. Kind of a pain to get the wheels straight, find center on the gear, then adjust the tie rod ends. I had the alignment shop do this on my '90 and it made an AMAZING difference in how it drives!

deathrunner

Thatnks guys.

Roger- good to know that it can be rebuilt. I'll check all of those joints first.

Flamed- That sounds like my problem. Obvioulsy there has been some work done to my front end, as well as replaced tie rods. So perhaps in the process the gear has been moved. Whenever I get it back from alignment I usually have to take the steering wheel off and correct it's alignment. Maybe that is a sign that the box is not at dead center. How can I check this steering gear????

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

Make sure the pitman arm scribe is aligned to the scribe mark on the steering box sectror shaft:

deathrunner

Okay good call. What's the easiest way to yank the pitman off??? I broke a puller and then took it to my mechanic. They also broke a puller and then ended up having to heat up the old pitman arm to yank it off. Hopefully the mark lines up and I wont have to mess with it.

Flamedx4

Proper way is you find the high point with an inch-pound torque wrench.
This thread from a few days ago: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/2nd-gen-loose-steering-how-adjust-steering-box-51030/

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

I use a pitman arm puller. Never had a problem, although sometimes it takes some heat, penetrating oil, hammering and time. Best bet is to cinch up the puller, leave it for a while and then cinch it up periodically. A hammer applied to the end of the arm, while under tension, can help break it free. The key though is to use some anti-sieze compound on the splines *before* reinstalling it. Do that and it'll come off easily the next time.

deathrunner

Flamed- you mentioned in the other post that if you tighten the screw down too much you can kill the gear. Yeah, well uh, I tightened it all the way down a couple of months ago as little adjustments didn't help. Come to think of it, I guess the massive adjustment didn't help either.

Roger- Good tip on pulling the pitman.

So, now I am looking at a possibly destroyed gear in the box and a pitman arm that is off center (Still have to check, kinda wet outside today) Also how can I tell if I am 180 or 360 degrees off the mark? It will still line up.

Thanks guys

Flamedx4

[[ Also how can I tell if I am 180 or 360 degrees off the mark? It will still line up. ]]

Turn your wheel all the way one way then all the way the other. Count the turns, then return the wheel to the center (best you can.) Then hold the arm about where it needs to go and look at the marks.
It shouldn't be possible to be 180 or 360 off the marks. The gear only moves through something like 90 degrees,and the arm obviously installs oriented one way...

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

Pretty easy, crank wheel to full lock one way, then crank it all the way to the other lock, counting the turns. Then crank it back 1/2 the turns and that should be at the center of travel. The scribed line should usually be dead in line with the frame. Set the steering wheel straight/level. A good alignment shop should make sure the steering wheel is straight after an alignment. After all they messed it up aligning the front end, they should put it back right.

deathrunner

Thanks I'll try to fix it