GreenArrow19

My 2000 4Runner is about to hit 150K and I'd like to see it go another 150K. So, I'm prepping for a major service overhaul. I searched the forum and composed the list below. Plan on going all the way down to the head. So, with that in mind, I plan on doing the following:
Most all of the Engine Overhaul Gasket kit (Part#:04111-62140. Going to double check what all is included)
Water pump (16100-69395) and gasket
Thermostat (90916-03075) and gasket
Spark plug tube gaskets (11193-16010)
Fuel Injector cleaning (Witch Hunter)
PCV Grommet (90480-18001)
Cam Plugs (appear to be called "Camshaft Housing Plugs", part number 11188-62010)

What else would you recommend? Since I’ll be taking the engine down to the head, I’d like to do all that I can all at one time. That’s the ideal anyway….



P.S. I bought it with 136k and did the following:
Tundra OEM front brakes upgrade, new rear brakes and brake fluid flush
aFe Air Filter
Transmission Fluid Flush and refill with AMS
B&M Transmission Cooler and Remote Spin-on Filter with AMS Filter
Diff and transfer case fluid flush and refill with AMS
Coolant flush and AMS refill
NGK Spark plugs and wires
OEM Rear O2 sensor

EDIT 12/12
Adding the following to the list:
Timing Belt (13568-69095)
No. 1 and No. 2 Idler Pulleys (13505-62070 and 13503-62040)
Timing Belt Tensioner (13540-62021)
Front O2 Sensor (89465-80034)
Reseal Coolant By-pass
Knock sensor wire (still running down a part number)

Texas_Ace

Done the fuel filter? I assume you are doing the timing belt while in there?

dmwahl

I 2nd the timing belt, you'd be a fool not to while you're in there. If it were me I would also do the timing belt idler and tensioning pulleys.

cman1

iTrader: (1)

X2 onbelt and pulley.and if your pulling the head i would send the injectors to witchhunter and get em cleaned.

Texas_Ace

No reason to pull the head, if it ain't broke, don't fix it.

GreenArrow19

Thanks for the replies guys!

Failed to mentioned that I did the fuel filter at 136K as well. The timing belt was done at 94K. Based on an every 90K schedule, I was going to hold off on that until around 180K.

Good call. Certainly going to add that timing belt idler and tensioning pulley to the list. Was planing on waiting until 180K to replace the timing belt but if I am going to do the idler and pulley, replacing the belt makes sense... Just more $

I am with Texas_Ace on pulling the head. I will be sending the injectors off to Which Hunter. Hoping they have a quick turn around as my wife and I will be down to one car!

Keep em coming guys!

Texas_Ace

The timing belt itself is cheap, replace it while you are in there.

MaK92-4RnR

well seeing how my HG blew at like 160k. I did an entire top end rebuild, replaced the plugs, wires, coil, distributor cap and rotor, and timing belt.

GreenArrow19

Found for $40. Adding it to the list!

Texas_Ace

Make sure it is OEM toyota but sounds about right, usually around $50.

scuba

Adjust the valves.

J2F42C

Here is the grommet #:90480-18001

I'd also replace the valve cover gaskets. Reseal the half moons with oil FIPG.

Take a pic of the spin on ATF filter and post it when you have a moment.

rworegon

I'd add the hydraulic tensioner for timing belt, crank/cam seals, and any hard to reach coolant hoses.

If you pull the heads be sure to replace the knock sensor wire and reseal the coolant bypass tube that is under the lower intake manifold.

GreenArrow19

Thanks for that part number! Definitely getting some Toyota FIPG for the half moons and valve cover gaskets are included in the Engine Overhaul Gasket kit.

Slightly off topic but, I took some pics with my iPhone for ya. I ordered this B&M Transmission Cooler after reading several post by Fogrunner and installed as seen in the pic below.



I also bought this B&M remote transmission filter. Installed it as seen below. It came with a B&M filter so I put it on and ran it a few thousand miles because I had just made the switch to AMS synthetic transmission fluid. Did some measuring and found that the AMS Ea015 was the largest I could fit and just recently installed it.

GreenArrow19

When you say "hydraulic tensioner" do you mean part #13540-62021 (TENSIONER ASSY, CHAIN, NO. 1)? I don't plan in pulling the head. So, with that in mind, would I still be able to access the knock sensor and coolant bypass tube?


Been using toyotapartszone.com for the diagrams and part numbers. Plan on ordering all parts from them unless someone knows of a better vendor.

rworegon

What engine? 5vz-fe, yes?

Brain fade on my part....to replace the knock wire and reseal the coolant bypass only the lower intake manifold needs to be removed, not the heads.

Yes: #13540-62021 for the hydraulic tensioner

Here is a thread on what happens when the bypass tube leaks, post 40:
http://www.tacomaterritory.com/forum...d.php?t=128424

GreenArrow19

It is indeed the 5VZ-FE.

That looks like an awful mess! Clearly want to avoid that. I cannot tell from the post if it was the actual pipe that was leaking or the gasket. Found a part number for the pipe, 16268-62060, but I am having a hard time finding a part number for the gasket that would go there...

rworegon

There is no gasket.....it uses a bead of sealant. I bought a new pipe, but could have saved the $$ as it was only the sealant that failed. I had the yuck just like the guy in the thread above that I discovered when doing my HG at 190k.

See EM-103, step 24:
http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/1996/SIL/...ylblo/reas.pdf

Grab a FSM (Factory Service Manual) for your rig from the link in my sig.

GreenArrow19

Downloaded the FSM this afternoon. Just dawned on me that it might just a sealant and no gasket
I'll just keep the pipe and reseal it. Adding it to the list!

rworegon

Excellent!

Here are a couple of threads while for HGs will show you most everything:
http://www.ultimateyota.com/index.ph...6&topic=2241.0

http://www.ultimateyota.com/index.ph...6&topic=7462.0

Good luck!