fourunnabilly

Hey all-

I posted a couple of weeks ago after the revtek was finally complete, and wanted to update a couple of things for the rest of you to save time and money. The 33x12.5's will fit no prob with the removal of the front mud flaps and minimal fender trimming. As time went on, I was beginning to rub while at a full turn in reverse. So I just cut straight up about another 2" and then arched the cut to flow back into the rest of the plastic. Absolutely no rubbing now at all...and you still wouldn't notice the difference unless you lived in the fenders. I figured out what caused all of my VSC, and TRAC CONTROL light to come one. We broke one of the wheel sensors in the process of the lift. It costs $180, so I think I can live without ABS for a while. Ran brand new ABS lines for only $40 a pop...fixed and bled the breaks, and all is fine now. So, just take your time, disconnect any brake, abs and other lines you feel you may stress while pulling out the coilovers.

On another note, a TRD Supercharger is coming soon. We are also going to add headers from a 4.7L tundra, swap a pulley or two, and of course hook up to a computer to make all the appropriate adjustments. Probably gonna add a 70 shot of nitrous to kick in @ 3000 RPM. I know a lot of you are shaking your heads about this, I think as long as we take our time to adjust and recalibrate everything will be fine. I am going to continue running the FIPK and Magnaflow exhaust. My main question is: What should be my target goal for the air/fuel ratio? That is my main area of concern...obviously will be running on the lean side. If there is anything else you think I should know, just drop a line. Thanks.

Billy

Sac State

Do you think the new transmission and Zorsen will be able to handle all of the increased daily torque and hp with any degree of reliability? With the SC you are adding 100+ lbs of torque and then with nitrous..... YIKES!

fourunnabilly

Sac State-

Honestly, I don't have a clue...but there is only one way to find out. I'll keep everyone posted. We are going to start with very low boost levels, prob about 3 lbs, get all the parts onto the rig and begin slowly bring the boost up, and adjust the timing of the nitrous. What do I have to lose, right? Just a block, tranny, etc, etc,

Billy

Good Times

Billy:

Sounds like you've got alot on your hands. Yeah I knew that the 33's should fit perfectly (ofcouse the mud flaps had to come off in the first place though).

Some voices of concern on the headers. FYI, the tundra headers won't fit at all. The exhaust manifold part will fit as it will bold on (same block) but the secondary connection prior to the cat conv's angles (flares) the wrong way thus hitting. You'll know what I mean if you pull out a tundra header and then look at your headers (Downey gave it a shot when they had my 4runner just to see if they can reitem it and sell it under the 4runner too but no luck. You're gonna have to push the cat back 1.5" but to do that you need CARB Approval to successfully sell it legally. Which means don't expect anyone to go thru all that trouble for now

A/F ratio:
First off, pick up a A/F meter (autometer makes some quality parts).
17:1 Lean
14.8:1 Stoich
12:1 Rich
You're 4runner should be stoich stock but after you add all the good stuff, I'd say run it very rich! Also premium is a must too though. If you want, you can get a retarding system too so it can adjust your cam timing and thus helping out on this part. Also since you're adding alot of power, you'll need to upgrade the fuel unit at the same time.

You'll want to pick up one of these:
Apex Super AFC
larger injectors... 305cc-310cc?
FMU
ECU

Also look into fuel pressure/oil pressure/boost/a&F guages so you can monitor all of these parts as it'll tell you alot of about your engine while you're running it hard.

Your tranny will be fine stock. I've seen stock tranny's go thru more than the setup you're attemping so I wouldn't worry about it at all. When you start running under 10 sec then I'd say start looking into the tranny but until then, don't sweat about it

Just go all out on the first try! Thus meaning 7 lbs should be no problems. anything outside of that range, just make sure you have enough fuel in your system.... Actually whatever you do, just make sure you have enough fuel!

Lance

fourunnabilly

Good Times-

Thanks for the in depth response. I suppose I should have mentioned we already discovered the header scenario and moved the cat as you said. I am ordering an autometer air/fuel, and boost, just so they match in my a pillar, plus trd's guage only goes up to 10 lb, I think? There was another gauge I was gonna get, but it escapes my mind at the moment. I think stock boost is 6 lbs for the 4.7 blower. Thru the pulleys, and some programming we are going to try and push that over 10 lbs. As you said, this will definitely be a process, but hopefully in the end I will have a pretty dependable machine that will still be my daily driver. The nitrous will probably only be used at the strip. We have been thinking of a bunch of different ways to set it up, and are still analyzing that one. Again, thanks for the help. I'll keep ya'll posted.

Billy