'03 V8 Oil filter location
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'03 V8 Oil filter location
Has anyone looked to see where the oil filter is located on the 2003 V8s ?
Is it a real PITA to get to ?
I have never changed my oil (myself) before, but I had such a horrible time @ the stealership that I would like to try and avoid the place as much as possible. Plus, I buy my own oil anyway.
Is it a real PITA to get to ?
I have never changed my oil (myself) before, but I had such a horrible time @ the stealership that I would like to try and avoid the place as much as possible. Plus, I buy my own oil anyway.
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get the filter at the stealer... not that expensive.. i think it's like 5 bucks or something.
changing the oil itself is VERY easy
1: pop hood and remove oil cap.
2: to access the oil plug (drain hole), you need to remove the rubber piece located on the center of the second portion of the skid plate. Pop it off and you'll find the oil plug
3: drain oil and then work on getting to the filter.
4: to access the filter, you need to remove the front portion of the skid plate. should be 10mm or 12mm (total of 4).
5: remove filter... blah blah ablh you get the picture.
The filter sits perpendicular so no worries about oil spilling like those that sit horizontal...
As long as you have all the tools needed, this should take no more than 15 - 30 mins depending on how experienced you are.
good luck!
Lance
changing the oil itself is VERY easy
1: pop hood and remove oil cap.
2: to access the oil plug (drain hole), you need to remove the rubber piece located on the center of the second portion of the skid plate. Pop it off and you'll find the oil plug
3: drain oil and then work on getting to the filter.
4: to access the filter, you need to remove the front portion of the skid plate. should be 10mm or 12mm (total of 4).
5: remove filter... blah blah ablh you get the picture.
The filter sits perpendicular so no worries about oil spilling like those that sit horizontal...
As long as you have all the tools needed, this should take no more than 15 - 30 mins depending on how experienced you are.
good luck!
Lance
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Anyone recommend the drive up racks or the jack and then use those braces. I guess the truck is high enough that I could just slide under.
Do you fill the filter full of oil ? Do you need a wrench for the filter ?
Do you fill the filter full of oil ? Do you need a wrench for the filter ?
Last edited by JGage; 04-15-2003 at 05:51 PM.
#4
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Hmm, don't know how big you are, but I found it easy to slide on my creeper under the truck. But then again, I had the suspension set to the raised position (+2"). It was a little tight on the normal setting.
You'll need a wrench. I use the band type to loosen slightly, then place an open ziplock baggie around the filter to catch any spillage, and then remove the filter. It's a great idea to fill the replacement filter with oil. It'll make pump up to the top end much quicker. The new filter, though it looks small, holds almost a pint. If you want the most complete drain possible, raise the front corner of the truck opposite the drain plug with the OEM jack to get the last bit out. On my Land Cruisers and Sequoia with the 2UZ, it drained an extra cup that way.
One thing to check when you remove the old filter is whether the O-ring gasket came with it or is still stuck to the block. Be sure it's removed or you'll double-gasket the filter. I've seen results of double-gasketing ranging from a messy undercarriage to a blown engine to a fire. For warranty purposes, stick with the OEM Toyota part. It's quality anyway, and you don't want to give a dealer any reason to refuse a potential warranty claim. Call me anal, but I always replace the drain plug gasket with a new one, too. Keep all receipts and record the date and mileage of your DIY service.
You'll need a wrench. I use the band type to loosen slightly, then place an open ziplock baggie around the filter to catch any spillage, and then remove the filter. It's a great idea to fill the replacement filter with oil. It'll make pump up to the top end much quicker. The new filter, though it looks small, holds almost a pint. If you want the most complete drain possible, raise the front corner of the truck opposite the drain plug with the OEM jack to get the last bit out. On my Land Cruisers and Sequoia with the 2UZ, it drained an extra cup that way.
One thing to check when you remove the old filter is whether the O-ring gasket came with it or is still stuck to the block. Be sure it's removed or you'll double-gasket the filter. I've seen results of double-gasketing ranging from a messy undercarriage to a blown engine to a fire. For warranty purposes, stick with the OEM Toyota part. It's quality anyway, and you don't want to give a dealer any reason to refuse a potential warranty claim. Call me anal, but I always replace the drain plug gasket with a new one, too. Keep all receipts and record the date and mileage of your DIY service.
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Originally posted by BT17R
Hmm, don't know how big you are, but I found it easy to slide on my creeper under the truck. But then again, I had the suspension set to the raised position (+2"). It was a little tight on the normal setting.
You'll need a wrench. I use the band type to loosen slightly, then place an open ziplock baggie around the filter to catch any spillage, and then remove the filter. It's a great idea to fill the replacement filter with oil. It'll make pump up to the top end much quicker. The new filter, though it looks small, holds almost a pint. If you want the most complete drain possible, raise the front corner of the truck opposite the drain plug with the OEM jack to get the last bit out. On my Land Cruisers and Sequoia with the 2UZ, it drained an extra cup that way.
One thing to check when you remove the old filter is whether the O-ring gasket came with it or is still stuck to the block. Be sure it's removed or you'll double-gasket the filter. I've seen results of double-gasketing ranging from a messy undercarriage to a blown engine to a fire. For warranty purposes, stick with the OEM Toyota part. It's quality anyway, and you don't want to give a dealer any reason to refuse a potential warranty claim. Call me anal, but I always replace the drain plug gasket with a new one, too. Keep all receipts and record the date and mileage of your DIY service.
Hmm, don't know how big you are, but I found it easy to slide on my creeper under the truck. But then again, I had the suspension set to the raised position (+2"). It was a little tight on the normal setting.
You'll need a wrench. I use the band type to loosen slightly, then place an open ziplock baggie around the filter to catch any spillage, and then remove the filter. It's a great idea to fill the replacement filter with oil. It'll make pump up to the top end much quicker. The new filter, though it looks small, holds almost a pint. If you want the most complete drain possible, raise the front corner of the truck opposite the drain plug with the OEM jack to get the last bit out. On my Land Cruisers and Sequoia with the 2UZ, it drained an extra cup that way.
One thing to check when you remove the old filter is whether the O-ring gasket came with it or is still stuck to the block. Be sure it's removed or you'll double-gasket the filter. I've seen results of double-gasketing ranging from a messy undercarriage to a blown engine to a fire. For warranty purposes, stick with the OEM Toyota part. It's quality anyway, and you don't want to give a dealer any reason to refuse a potential warranty claim. Call me anal, but I always replace the drain plug gasket with a new one, too. Keep all receipts and record the date and mileage of your DIY service.
- I didn't see any drain plug gasket. There is a round ring on the oil pan where the drain plug goes into and I couldn't pry it off and it looks like it's part of the oil pan plug reinforcement?
(I replace the plug with a Fumoto valve so I won't ever have to remove it again)
- I could never get a correct reading on the dip stick as every time I pull it out, the oil was all over the stick. I refilled with 6.5 quarts as specified in the owner's manual. Is that correct? I'm wondering if I could just dump the whole 7 quarts in there so I won't have to measure it. Yes, I know that overfill it is bad but 1/2 quart more only raise the level by about 1/2 inch in a 12"x12" pan?
Thanks.
-Mike-
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Re: The stick... Mine is always all over the stick... Before the dealership change and after. Go figure...
I "think" the top dot is the normal limit.
I "think" the top dot is the normal limit.
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#8
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Mike, the round ring you saw was the drain plug gasket. It looks like it's part of the pan, but isn't. It takes a sheer force to remove, like a large flat blade screwdriver against it with a swift rap of your palm or hammer. I wouldn't worry much about using the old one twice, you can change it next time even though you'll need to remove the Fumoto valve.
Yeah, the 2UZ takes 6.5 quarts with a new filter. I wouldn't overfill. Save the extra half-quart for next time. It's hard getting a clear oil level reading on fresh oil in a new engine. Your best bet is to wait overnight and then check the engine cold, viewing the dipstick in direct sunlight. Not that we'll ever need to add oil to the 2UZ, but the difference between the high and low marks is 1.6 quarts, not 1 quart like most other dipsticks.
Yeah, the 2UZ takes 6.5 quarts with a new filter. I wouldn't overfill. Save the extra half-quart for next time. It's hard getting a clear oil level reading on fresh oil in a new engine. Your best bet is to wait overnight and then check the engine cold, viewing the dipstick in direct sunlight. Not that we'll ever need to add oil to the 2UZ, but the difference between the high and low marks is 1.6 quarts, not 1 quart like most other dipsticks.
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Originally posted by BT17R
Mike, the round ring you saw was the drain plug gasket. It looks like it's part of the pan, but isn't. It takes a sheer force to remove, like a large flat blade screwdriver against it with a swift rap of your palm or hammer. I wouldn't worry much about using the old one twice, you can change it next time even though you'll need to remove the Fumoto valve.
Mike, the round ring you saw was the drain plug gasket. It looks like it's part of the pan, but isn't. It takes a sheer force to remove, like a large flat blade screwdriver against it with a swift rap of your palm or hammer. I wouldn't worry much about using the old one twice, you can change it next time even though you'll need to remove the Fumoto valve.
and I couldn't tell what it was so I didn't force it. Guess I'll have to remove the Fumoto valve and remove it next time or I'll just remove the gasket of the Fumoto valve or may be I'll just leave them double-gasket in place :-)
Originally posted by BT17R
Yeah, the 2UZ takes 6.5 quarts with a new filter. I wouldn't overfill. Save the extra half-quart for next time. It's hard getting a clear oil level reading on fresh oil in a new engine. Your best bet is to wait overnight and then check the engine cold, viewing the dipstick in direct sunlight. Not that we'll ever need to add oil to the 2UZ, but the difference between the high and low marks is 1.6 quarts, not 1 quart like most other dipsticks.
Yeah, the 2UZ takes 6.5 quarts with a new filter. I wouldn't overfill. Save the extra half-quart for next time. It's hard getting a clear oil level reading on fresh oil in a new engine. Your best bet is to wait overnight and then check the engine cold, viewing the dipstick in direct sunlight. Not that we'll ever need to add oil to the 2UZ, but the difference between the high and low marks is 1.6 quarts, not 1 quart like most other dipsticks.
-Mike-
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Originally posted by JGage
Re: The stick... Mine is always all over the stick... Before the dealership change and after. Go figure...
I "think" the top dot is the normal limit.
Re: The stick... Mine is always all over the stick... Before the dealership change and after. Go figure...
I "think" the top dot is the normal limit.
-Mike-
#11
Originally posted by testrider
Yes, but the problem was that every time you pull it out, oil was smeared all over the dip stick and you couldn't tell where the level is...
-Mike-
Yes, but the problem was that every time you pull it out, oil was smeared all over the dip stick and you couldn't tell where the level is...
-Mike-
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Originally posted by testrider
Yes, but the problem was that every time you pull it out, oil was smeared all over the dip stick and you couldn't tell where the level is...
-Mike-
Yes, but the problem was that every time you pull it out, oil was smeared all over the dip stick and you couldn't tell where the level is...
-Mike-
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Originally posted by keisur
you don't happen to be checking the oil with the engine running do you? if not, try pulling it out, wiping it off, stick it back in, then very carefully pull it back out and see if that helps.
you don't happen to be checking the oil with the engine running do you? if not, try pulling it out, wiping it off, stick it back in, then very carefully pull it back out and see if that helps.
I finally had to leave it sit overnight
and the next day I was able (only barely) to get a reading of the oil level.
-Mike-
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Originally posted by testrider
ecause of the bend of the dip stick tube, it doesn' t matter how careful I wiped it off and pull it out, the oil was all over the dip stick.
ecause of the bend of the dip stick tube, it doesn' t matter how careful I wiped it off and pull it out, the oil was all over the dip stick.
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