RBX

^^^ yes, I actually got the idea from a buddy's Acura RL, just bright enough for it not to be totally dark.

RBX

Insulation update.
Monday i was working inside the truck to get the heater(blower), and ducting back in, as well as the front carpet piece. the truck does not sit in the shade, nor was it a sunny day, i think the high was 34 and it was quite windy.
Anyhow, the simple insulation i laid in the truck made a noticeable difference. the truck was not running. while i was working for about an hour at a time the temperature was maintained just from body heat. In fact, my son(14) was wrestling with reinstalling the back seats the night before, and he took his jacket off and was in just a t-shirt..
It will be interesting to see in the coming months when the truck is in full use how much of a difference the insulation made.
I have the entire floor, lower firewall and the four side panels behind the front doors covered, and still need to do the doors.

CamTom12

That's good to know, I'll definitely be following your recipe when I get around to my interior!

RBX

Give yourself some time for her to air out, the insulation smells once you unroll that much. Also, it doesn't like to stick to the itself( overlapping) but it will hold enough to form it and lay carpet.

Outsane

great stuff,

inspiring to see all the interior getting freshened up..

What size speakers are those in the middle? the round ones?

I have been thinking of putting in a slim magnet 10" sub box, in that area

RBX

thanks for the kind words.
Speakers are el cheapo 6.5"mid-subs in the back(bed area), 6x9's behind the B-pillar and 4" or 3.5" in the dash. I am not sure if a slim ten would fit, you could probably squeeze a slim 8" sub in. I was trying to conserve some funds for this part of the build so i could spend it on more necessary stuff, like bad O2 sensor or TPS, I'll upgrade to a nicer sub later.
Sad part is i haven't tested any of the stereo yet, my wire harness to the radio was completely boogered, but fixing that was moved further down the list of stuff to fix.

Outsane

I'll have to pull off the panels and find out..

its only 3" deep and I got it for free, but I don't want a sub box in the cargo area
http://www.edesignaudio.com/product_...roducts_id=106

RBX

Only 3" inches, that's nice, i think it would fit, there isn't much room back there. And iff memory serves correct the gap between the top bed rail and inner wheel house pinch weld is about 11". And since it was free i would definitely try to make it work..

Outsane

thanks for the info looks like it might work.

RBX

Anyone know if an 87 22re Cold Start Injector (CSI) and Cold Start Timer(CST) will work on an 88 3VZ-E? I think this may be my starting issue, and this would be an easy way to diagnose the issue besides using the Ohm meter...and i am pretty sure my CST is bad.

RBX

I am having a serious problem getting this thing started here are the details any help is greatly appreciated.

It was no fuel issue...fixed!

richf

RBX it seems like you know what your doing with the interior. So what do you suggest for making new panels for the section that is next to the rear seats? I want to make some and wrap them in neoprene. What should I use for the panel and what should I use to adhere the material to the panel? I also want to put a speaker in it.

RBX

I wanted to use corrugated plastic, and figured i could probably get a local sign shop to give me some old signs i could cut up, but my one friend in the business wasn't returning my calls. The reason for the corrugated plastic is it's impervious to water, and i know i would have the top off in a downpour. You could just use Masonite from a hardware store, i actually used the another set of panels i had from the parts rig.
Once you have your template cut for your panel, locate the cut-out for your speakers and grills.
Now you will need to adhere the Neoprene to the panel. I like the 3M high strength upolstery adhesive. Cut the material a little larger then the panel(about 1-2"), and do not cut out the speaker or seatbelt hole until you have the fabric stretched and folded over on the edges. You can use a stapler around the edges to hole the fabric, just make sure they are shallow, mounting the panel in the truck should keep the fabric in place also. Spray the bare panel, and the fabric (side to be stuck to the panel of course) and let it sit for a few minutes. I am betting neoprene isn't going to stretch much, and be careful not to let it wrinkle the adhesive can set up quicker the directions specify. That adhesive will get everywhere, keep some acetone and a clean rag close.
This is going to sound crazy, but get a can of spray paint the exact color as your neoprene. This will be used to cover up any glue or discoloration you may leave while fitting the panel with fabric. The nice thing is the paint will soak in while leaving a uniform finish(this adhesive is really meant for vinyl which is non-porous i used black on every panel)
Be careful on the front of the panels near the doors, the fabric is suppose to go under the door trim/gasket that covers the pinch weld.
I would use the same method you used to mount your door panels...stainless screws into the sheet metal try to space them evenly to give it a nice finished look.
My 2 cents:
If it were my truck, i would incorporate some of that aluminum you have on your doors into the design of your rear panels to make it look more cohesive. Also, i don't know what thickness neoprene comes in but i would think the thicker stuff is going to be more difficult to work with.

I think that is everything i know, and i really don't know much.

good luck, if you have any more questions just post-em, I'm s'scribed to your thread, so ill be watching.

richf

Thanks for the info man. Can you post some more pictures of your speaker install? Also are those subs in the area behind the rear seats? I have two 4" kenwood speakers for the front and two 6.5" kenwood speakers for the rear, kenwood head unit and no subs. It's all getting installed Thursday of next week at the local audio shop. Do you think I need a sub? I'm trying to get the same sound quality as my stock 07 F-150. Nothing crazy just something that sounds good.

RBX

Here is the pic I have from the first page.


it was tricky but I made a backing ring from some 3/4" vinyl I had laying around so I could mount them behind the sheet metal. My plan is to have some perf'd aluminum like the rea to mask the fact there is a speaker there. You could probably moun the speakers further back if you don't have the sr5 panels with the cubby.
Hope that helps.
Really, I just want to be able to hear my tunes with the top off Rollin down the highway. I also snuck a 5-channel amp behind the driver side panel PITA.

EDIT>>>>>> I have since replaced the pictured Clarion junk 6x9s with a set of Infinity Kappas and an Alpine 5 channel amp MRX-60(small form factor and since it was older model some places have it on clearance...plenty loud. Example...Soft-top with the sides rolled up, front windows down roof rack and assorted gear, two people in the back seats, rolling down the highway(lots of wind noise is what I'm tellin ya)...and i can't hear a vehicle next to me or the wind noise over the tunes. 6x9s offer a nice bass thump, but i may try to sneak an 8" in the back

RBX

Took her out for a ride today, dash is still out but I couldn't resist.
She's idling really low, and playing with the idle screw doesn't do anything after about one rotation from closed/tight....any suggestions?
Thanks guys

irab88

iTrader: (4)

air intake/vacuum leaks? that's my best guess

RBX

I'll double check for leaks, and I just replaced all the vacuum lines.
The other issue is that she isn't hitting the high idle at cold start.

88toyblackjack

Check the temp sensors and switches on the back of the engine. Theres 3 or 4, I cant remember. 1 of them is a temp sender or switch that affects the idle and fuel mix. Do these engines use a IAC valve on the TB? I cant remember. Its been so long since Ive been home, Is my Yota black? I cant remember!

RBX

There are three, Water temp sensor(replaced), water temp sender(for gauge, fixed) and Cold Start Timer(used the ohm meter and it seems to check out).
88, i think you are right about the TB, i can't recall exactly, but i remeber reading a post about cleaning the TB, and a clogged port/tube.

thanks for the help guys, hopefully this afternoon ill have some progress.