Numbchux

Well, it's a 4L60 (not a 4L60E), so it's a '92. Identical in function to the 700R4.

It runs barely over 2k rpm at 50, and shifts so smoothly it's hard to tell how many times it's shifted. Once I get some more miles on it, I'll take it out to the sticks and do a 0-70 run at higher throttle so I can tell exactly what it's doing.

clarion69374

What year CPI do you have? Did the trans con with that motor or did you source it separately? Since its not an E series I'm pretty sure lockup is controlled by the tv cable and vacuum? Someone correct me if I'm wrong please...

clarion69374

Sorry looked back at the 1st page and saw you bought the motor and trans as a complete unit. Now I would almost be willing to bet that blazer was a late 92 technically making it a 93 which indeed have the 4l60e with the 4 wire plug and no tv cable... Also 93 was the first year of the CPI introduced in late 92 blazers only

clarion69374

I'm not sure what diff it makes but if it has the black box PCM ( i think the silver box works the same way) that unit is going to be searching for a brake light switch signal which needs to be wired through a relay for the lock up to work at all. Safety precaution in case of a panic stop situation. Now I'm assuming you already know all of this but if not its somewhere to start.

Numbchux

It's a '92 model. I have all 1992 Chevy S-series service manuals that refer to the CPI system, and a non-electric trans. AFAIK '92 was the only year for that combo, as the '93 got the 4L60E.


Either way, it just has the 4-wire plug for TCC control like the older 700R4s. Brake switch should be hooked up (It's a silver ECU, btw).

I'm still not sure I've gotten it fast enough to engage lockup. So I'm not ready to say I need to diagnose that. But AFAIK the TCC lockup is the only way to say for sure that the VSS is working correctly, so I'm not ready to say that that's 100% working.

clarion69374

Ahhh after a little more research you are correct my bad, well hurry up and drive that thing already!!!! Lol jk best of luck man lookin good

clarion69374

Any luck with tc lockup? How's the build coming no updates man!!!!

Numbchux

It sat slightly torn apart for a couple weeks. I got some 6054->H4 Conversion housings from work (Autozone), they're pretty neat, plastic, but decent. IMO worth the price. I also got some "Universal" 6054 retaining rings....which don't fit the Toyota. And all 4 of my adjuster screws were stripped out, which was a bit of a challenge to get ahold of. Low Range Offroad has them....btw. Perfect fit.. And of course all that is hidden behind the grill, which this "awesome" Smittybuilt tube bumper has to come off in order to remove.

Also put in a new rear output seal on the tcase, and transmission pan gasket (never re-use! Trans had a fresh rebuild, so I pulled the pan to put a drain plug/temp sensor in it, and re-used the gasket.....which then leaked).

AA Headers completely ruined the side knock sensor. Wire was completely melted, and probably grounding out on the header. Engine was having some intermittent stumbling/not running, I found in the Chilton's manual that if the knock sensor signal is not detected, it will default to normal ignition advance (I figured it would default to safe mode...), so I cut that wire today, and it "seems" to be running better. Downside is the CEL is always on now. Might try to put a Subaru knock sensor on there, as it's much shorter than the chevy one and the wire comes out of the side.


Turn signals. I have the little plastic pieces to mount the stock toyota signals between the tubes on the bumper, but neither signal survived storage. So I needed something. I decided in the interest of high visibility, and high durability, to buy a couple amber LED flex strips from work:





Also, put a green LED tach backlight and LED flasher from autoluminations.com in it today. Interior looks pretty good (except all the gauges that don't work. Fuel, Oil pressure, trans temp, busted heater trim....)!

tinigunner11

iTrader: (1)

WOW.....those look sick! Your runner look so good! Where did you get the LED's?

Numbchux

Autozone





So, running issue is not fixed. Now it seems to do it whenever the hell it feels like it. Sometimes it runs awesome, and sometimes it just dies.


I think I have 2 separate, but overlapping, issues. I think my idle air control solenoid is sticking. Sometimes the idle will fluctuate wildly, and occasionally stall, like the valve isn't responding quick enough to properly manage the rpms. When this happens, the engine will immediately start back up. And a light tap on the intake by the valve with a hammer seems to help. I would throw a new one in there, but when I tried pulling the solenoid off to paint the intake, one of the bolts broke, and the other seemed like it was about to. So I'm really avoiding opening that can of worms if I can help it. I sprayed a bunch of SeaFoam through it this morning, which seemed to help.

The other is more severe, and less predictable. It will be running fine, and then it will stumble once or twice, and die. When this happens, it will NOT refire. When I crank it over, the fuel pump noise does not change (no pressure being relieved in the lines, tells me that no fuel is being injected).

When it did it to me today, I tried unplugging sensors, and wiggling stuff around to get it to do something, to no avail. 02 sensor, Intake air temp sensor, ignition advance jumper, etc. Even disconnected the battery for awhile. None of these things seemed to make any difference. I know the 2 wires going to the injector have been spliced by a PO, so I'm going to check that splice, and see if that might be the cause. But moving them around didn't seem to make any difference.

Numbchux

Patched up the injector wires, and haven't had an incident yet. Couple hiccups at speed, but nothing major. Started tinkering with the fuel gauge issue....everything is hooked up right under the truck and near the ECU, and the resistance at the sendor would lead me to believe it is working. Yarg....I'll have to pull the gauge cluster next and see what's happening in there.




Planning on taking the 4.3Runner camping this weekend, so some Camping mods were needed.

1st on the list when camping out of an SUV/Wagon, usually the rear hatch/gate is not designed to be operated from the inside, so I bought 2 momentary buttons, and mounted them to the inside trim panel (pics to come in the daylight), and wired them to control the rear window. Now I can roll the rear window up or down from the inside.

Then I needed the rear window to operate with the key off, so I made that mod too. I used 4Crawler's write-up on modifying the system to track down the necessary wires to do this.
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...ow.shtml#Relay

The last step for today was lighting. I already had some LEDs in the stock dome and deck light fixtures from www.autolumination.com . But I needed to improve on that. So I got a pair of these LED light strips:
http://www.oznium.com/smd-bar

Ziptied them to the roll bar, and wired them in with the deck light:


Lights the thing up like crazy. I'll have to be careful not to hit this switch while on the road at night, as it could be very distracting to a driver behind me.

clarion69374

Damn dude that is some serious lighting!!!!! Gonna attract a lotta bugs lol

clarion69374

Off topic I know but which wire did you pull for the CEL? I have mine hooked up but the damn thing stays on all the time, no codes runs great... Hmmm

Numbchux

It stalled again today. Fuel pump sounded funny, so I tested the voltage going to it, 10v. Tested the voltage to the relay, 12v. So I bypassed the relay, and it started right up.

I turned around to head home and try to get this sorted out, and just as I pulled up to the house, it stalled again (fuel pump still on). And when I tried to get it to restart, it wouldn't. No fuel.....no pattern. Just random failure without any rhyme or reason. Frustrated doesn't begin to cover it.


So, definitely not taking it camping this weekend. I can't get more than 8 trips to work (about a mile one way) without failure, I'm not setting off over 100 miles one way in the middle of nowhere. Think I might park it for awhile, and spend some time and energy on my XT6, or getting my girlfriend's Kia sold.

Numbchux

4.3Runner is on the back burner, but not off the stove. I've been keeping my eye out for some factory 16" alloys. Since I plan to run wider width drivetrain (Blazeland front, FJZ-80 rear) I wanted the wheels to keep the track as narrow as possible....hence stock high-offset and narrow width. Also, alloys, because they're better.


Got a set of wheels from a 3rd gen 4Runner today. Tires are bald, but hold air (good for holding the truck off the ground so I can sell my current 35s and buy some 315/75r16s), and came with lug nuts. $100.



I was able to cram 3 of them into my Celica for the drive from Minneapolis back home to Duluth. the 4th is stashed in my parents' garage (it's their trailer, btw. Don't really have room for it here, so I didn't want to take it with).

Numbchux

Made the 4.3Runner look more pathetic today. Stock size bald all-seasons......sad.

But, new wheels look sweet, and this is one step closer to selling the 35r15s so I can get 35r16s.

Numbchux

Well, in the interest of not encouraging the rust any more, my 4.3Runner has been hiding from the salty roads. Unfortunately for that, we have had a very long winter this year. 10" of snow last Thursday, and it's supposed to continue to snow at least a little bit almost every day this week.



But, I've got less than a month to when I would like to wheel this thing....so the ball is rolling. It has started, put a good battery in it, and it fired right up.

I have ordered a USB/ALDL cable so I can (theoretically) connect to the ECU using ProTuner, and monitor some detailed engine information, and even datalog them.....more info to come on that.

Also, it was on sale at AutoZone....so:


Going to do a little 2 tone to cover up some of my rust repair, and a top coat on the rear bumper.

Gizler00

iTrader: (1)

Definitely a good idea to keep it out of the winter. I wish now I would have kept mine off the road. The liquid salt stuff tey out on the roads here (sodium chloride?) absolutely killed my runner. Has surface rust now that I need to address. When I lived in PA we used to coat the undersides of our vehicles with used motor oil to prevent this. I totally should have done that before this winter.

Let me know how the duplicolor stuff works for you. I've never tried it. Only stuff I have used as a DIY was durabak and raptor liner.

kornhuskerwizard

Your interior dash cluster photo shot reminds me of cannonball run with those two asians in that little black hatch...All lit up like a spacecraft. I LIKE IT!

Numbchux

That's a Subaru....I've got one of those too....




Well, still snowing it's azz off up here, so no painting. So I did some photoshopping. With the rust that I'm trying to cover up, I basically need to do this much:



Trying to decide if I want to do up and over the front fender to match:




Front fenders are half as old as the truck, and have never had the chrome trim, so they're not rotten at all. Also, I think it looks better without.