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Couple edition from the weekend. Got a lead on some used Truck Lite LED headlights for $200. Thinking I may pull the trigger one those. Should I do the H4 conversion even though these are plug and play??
Land of the free because of the brave. OOORAAH!
$200 for the pair is a steal! Check how much is left on 3-year warranty. H4 conversion harness if well-made will surely help. It is ESSENTIAL when using halogens, and would still help with Truck-Lites; One advantage either way is it will help extend the life of your combo-dimmer switch.
Last edited by RAD4Runner; 05-09-2017 at 01:38 PM.
Update Truck lite headlights in route. Hopefully will have them by the weekend and installed.
Looking for some insight. I found a tire and wheel set up that I think would look sweet on the Runner. The wheel size is 17 x 8.5 Method NV BRZ W/BLK and tires are LT 285 70 R17 GENERAL GRABBER. Both are brand new never been mounted. Is this pushing the limits for a stock set-up?? I don't really have any plans of lifting it at this time. Maybe down the road, but as of now its not in the cards. Thoughts??
...The wheel size is 17 x 8.5 ...Is this pushing the limits for a stock set-up?...
I think an un-lifted truck with a 17 will look like an Escalade with low-profile tires (hint: Ghetto - LOL!)
Even members who lift and SAS their trucks stay with 15-inch rims. 16 is the biggest I'd go. even then, the bigger your rims the more expensive your tire will be for same overall diameter.
Well got my truck lites. Plugged them in, low beams work great, but high beams flicker when I switch em over. If I flash them or hold the high beams switch forward they work fine... not sure if I need to get an anti flicker module. Any suggestions??
Low beams. High beams with switch on.
Well got my truck lites. Plugged them in, low beams work great, but high beams flicker when I switch em over. If I flash them or hold the high beams switch forward they work fine... not sure if I need to get an anti flicker module? High beams with switch on.
Driver side looks good, Highbeam on passenger side is out. Truck-Lites are plug and play, no need for accessory.
Originally Posted by space-junk
contact the person you bought them from. if they dont work, get your money back.
+1
Like I mentioned above, ask if 3-year warranty is still valid.
The picture I snapped made it look like the high beams were working, but they flicker. The guy I bought them from said they worked just fine in his Jeep.
The part I'm stumped on is that when I flash the high beams they work fine or hold the high beams switch it's fine. If I flip the switch on they flicker... 😲
You could have an issue with your combo switch. LEDs can be a little more particular with their switching and voltage supply. I have a very similar issue with mine that is caused by my switch. My low beams flicker to high when I hit a bump. If I just rest my finger on the switch to hold it still, they work fine. You need to check your voltage to the high beam while you have somebody hold it to flash and then compare it to what's there when they are just on high and flickering. I'd say that if they work on flash, then the headlights, themselves, are fine and the problem is in the wiring.
The gentleman I purchased them from recommended I try an anti flicker module. I might give that a whirl and see what happens.
It's odd becuase my Sylvanias never had any issues with low or high beams.
Last edited by Gen1Runner; 05-16-2017 at 08:59 PM.
I can see that working. LEDs react to current quicker than incandescent bulbs. Your original lights may have had the same erratic voltage but you wouldn't notice because of the longer time it takes for the beam to fully light and dim. You do need to have a look at the voltage at the connector though. You could have an underlying issue that needs to be addressed with your wiring or charging system.
OK...
Like Charchee says above, it could be (1) existing poor quality power (regulation), OR (2) problem with switch contacts. The contacts have been subject to high current UNNECESSARILY because of the poor wiring design. (Search 4crawlers site for "convoluted path").
(2) Can be fixed with H4 conversion relay kit.
That kit will feed the lights with less resistance but since LED lights will work on lower current than standard lights, I kind of feel like you have more of an unsteady current than a weak one. If I had to bet on it, I think the anti flicker mod may be more of a solution than the relay kit, although both mods would be a very nice combo and both will help.
If I purchase the H4 Headlight Relay Upgrade Wiring Harness from lowrangeoffroad that should suffice??
Don't buy the harness, yet, until we have diagnosed the root cause.
Have your alternator tested first. If there's too much ripple on the output voltage, that might be the cause.
Leds and dc voltage are very ground dependant. And the fact that the ground is switched on our combo switches i would think that is the most likely source. Is fairly easy to check. Just supply a straight ground and see if the flicker stops.
Well I ordered the H4 conversion relay anyways because I was ordering some odds and ends already.
My voltmeter will be here tomorrow, so I will be testing my alternator. My gut feeling is that its on its way out. I've noticed power draw on my instrument gauge when I roll the windows up and when the blinker is on. The gauge synchronizes with the blinker bouncing up and down.
92ehatch what exactly would I be grounding out? I'm sorry for my lack of knowledge, electrical is my worst nightmare.
You could have an alternator issue but you would likely be noticing it in the way it cranks by now. You could have a bad chassis ground somewhere. Look under the hood for anywhere you see a wire just bolted down to the body/frame. Those are your ground wires. You could have a bad connection at one of them which could give you a similar issue.
What 92 is talking about is the ground wire for the lights is actually what you are closing (connecting) within the light switch. Your lights are always connected to the positive terminal of the battery. When you switch them on, you are closing the circuit by connecting the other wire at the light bulb to ground. He's saying that your positive supply voltage may be just fine and that it's an issue with the ground side of the circuit which your switch is part of. By disconnecting the wire from the switch at the light and then holding it against a bare metal surface of the truck's body, you may find that the light works properly with no flicker. That would tell you that you have a bad ground and probably at the combo switch.
Connecting negative side of headlight high beam directly to ground as Chachee and 92 mention above is Excellent and FREE diagnostic step.
Find the Red-Yellow wire from H4 connector, switch light to high-beam and connect R-Y wire directly to chassis ground. Then also try directly to battery negative. See if either makes a difference.
Pls ignore tail light test points. Just find headlight wires...
One more thing to check, are BOTH your headlight fuses good? Are u getting 12V across the headlights, both in low-beam and high? The way the circuit is wired, a bad fuse may still allow lights to come on because of leakage thru filament/circuit of the bulb that has a good fuse. How headlights may SEEM to work when one fuse is blown...
05-09-2017, 05:25 AM
