Doomys 87 Turbo 4runner Build thread
04-25-2012, 06:01 PM
#27
idk why she hasnt posted up in a while...
got some progress done on the runner this past few days...
motor was pulled and stripped and sent off to Crackaway Racing Engines and Machine to be built... these guys know what they are doing... had them build several motors for us in the past and have been happy with the quality of workmanship they put into their services...
oil filter was on so tight that even with a filter wrench it crumpled it... took a breaker bar to remove it...
Redneck cherrypicker
i am happy to report that the Rick at crackaway said that the head basically looked brand new and other than replacing valve guide seals and checking clearences, there isnt much he has to do... that will save me $400...
tore down the turbo because i noticed a LOT of oil in the intake and the shaft had more play in it that i like... heres what i saw...
looks like its been repaired in the past with a mig welder... SMH... so, its toast... plus its got a hairline crack in it... so im not gonna risk trying to use it...
instead, we're going to be replacing it with this...
its a GT2052 out of a Saab 9-3... internally wastegated so it should work good... just need to figure out how to run the oil and coolant lines and get a full exhaust installed after the motor is done...
this ios costing me more than i originally intended it to but i guess if its worth doing, its worth doing right the first time...
btw, angel has decided the colors for this truck are going to be white and orange... so, the block is getting painted silver, head is being left aluminum, and the valve cover is getting painted candy orange... i think itll look great...
got some progress done on the runner this past few days...
motor was pulled and stripped and sent off to Crackaway Racing Engines and Machine to be built... these guys know what they are doing... had them build several motors for us in the past and have been happy with the quality of workmanship they put into their services...
oil filter was on so tight that even with a filter wrench it crumpled it... took a breaker bar to remove it...
Redneck cherrypicker
i am happy to report that the Rick at crackaway said that the head basically looked brand new and other than replacing valve guide seals and checking clearences, there isnt much he has to do... that will save me $400...
tore down the turbo because i noticed a LOT of oil in the intake and the shaft had more play in it that i like... heres what i saw...
looks like its been repaired in the past with a mig welder... SMH... so, its toast... plus its got a hairline crack in it... so im not gonna risk trying to use it...
instead, we're going to be replacing it with this...
its a GT2052 out of a Saab 9-3... internally wastegated so it should work good... just need to figure out how to run the oil and coolant lines and get a full exhaust installed after the motor is done...
this ios costing me more than i originally intended it to but i guess if its worth doing, its worth doing right the first time...
btw, angel has decided the colors for this truck are going to be white and orange... so, the block is getting painted silver, head is being left aluminum, and the valve cover is getting painted candy orange... i think itll look great...
Last edited by doomy; 04-25-2012 at 06:11 PM.
04-25-2012, 10:38 PM
#29
04-25-2012, 10:50 PM
#30
04-25-2012, 11:13 PM
#32
Registered User
That turbo you have should be a good match for the 22R. Seems like the turbo has a built in recirculation valve also. That 3 Bolt exhaust flange may be fun to try to source. Ebay may have them not sure.
04-25-2012, 11:26 PM
#33
Chef, I am feelin the heat! Lol... It's ok tho, because itll be worth it in the end... I hope...
Gennro, gonna be making a custom adapter out of 3/4" steel as long as the turbo clears the steering shaft...
Gennro, gonna be making a custom adapter out of 3/4" steel as long as the turbo clears the steering shaft...
Last edited by space-junk; 04-26-2012 at 07:53 PM.
04-26-2012, 11:29 PM
#36
Contributing Member
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: COTKU,Ontario,Canada
Posts: 11,334
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I was going to say bunni based on the pics you maybe needed an arm wax but then I realized it was junk hyjacking your thread... again... 
...
that turbo looks like it's seen better days... hope you get that Saab 'bo fugured out...
...that turbo looks like it's seen better days... hope you get that Saab 'bo fugured out...
04-28-2012, 02:58 AM
#37
as for the turbo, theres a couple issues that we still gotta sort like how im going to adapt these lines, but i dont think itll be too bad... if i cant get it, theres a shop who specializes in Turbo work here in sacramento... shouldnt be too hard of a job for them...
the upside to this is that its gonna be getting a full 3" exhaust from the turbo back now... might as well since its all gotta change anyways...
04-28-2012, 12:33 PM
#38
What I DO KNOW is that I hit OVER 90MPH on the freeway yesterday..... not a wiff of stink from the pipe.... running like a raped ape... STILL failed smog! lol.
Can't wait to see this thing complete and the Bunni cruisin the BB down the road for an appt!
lol.
04-28-2012, 01:07 PM
#39
Hahaha chef, too funny...
Fortunately turbos work on a different principal... The more flow the better! (to an extent, of course) the only back pressure in a turbo system that is needed is between the head and turbo... Any other back pressure caused by small diameter pipes would actually hinder the efficiency of the turbo, slowing it down...
The only thing that I'm worried about is failing a visual because I changed the turbo, but I figure I can find some suitable heat shielding to cover it...
And one thing I forgot to say is that Rick told me that the motor decided to eat the #3 con rod bearing, so, it's prolly a good thing I didn't just slap a new HG on her... Rick suspects the crank is ok, but he's reserving judgement until he can have it all machined...
Fortunately turbos work on a different principal... The more flow the better! (to an extent, of course) the only back pressure in a turbo system that is needed is between the head and turbo... Any other back pressure caused by small diameter pipes would actually hinder the efficiency of the turbo, slowing it down...
The only thing that I'm worried about is failing a visual because I changed the turbo, but I figure I can find some suitable heat shielding to cover it...
And one thing I forgot to say is that Rick told me that the motor decided to eat the #3 con rod bearing, so, it's prolly a good thing I didn't just slap a new HG on her... Rick suspects the crank is ok, but he's reserving judgement until he can have it all machined...
