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...when you turn the key, you can hear a faint "brzzt" from somewhere under the intake..
Turn to what position? A problem well-stated is a problem almost solved
Fuel pump only comes on when
1) Ignition switch is in Start position and C.O.R. is on (click behind glove box), OR
2) When there is combustion, hence air flow, so VAFM flap is turns C.O.R. on., OR
2) B+ and FP pins are jumped for troubleshooting purpose.
Re injector, there is/are splice(s) in harness under or around the intake for the injector wiring to ECU. Those could get corroded and/or brittle. I also need to dig in there someday to check the work of shop that rebuilt my engine.
Sorry, rad. I meant when the key is turned to start. If I unplug the starter trigger wire and have doomy bump the ignition to start I can hear it.
if there is an issue in the harness, should I stop now and tear it all down?
I would definitely inspect it... for worn insulation, corroded crimps. Terrys87 has a post about the injector connectors there.
Those crimps are shown below...
ive actually replaced all the injectors with new ones. i did my own butt connectors and shrink wrap. im hoping that they are not the culprit of the noise.
as for the harness, i inspected what i could. i didnt feel comfortable tearing the factory harness completely apart, but i also didnt see any corrosion.
Last night between job 1 and job 2, I got a little more work done. Well, WE got a little more work done. And by little, I mean, almost nothing. But we operate ed a bunch of parts that arrived!
eh...anyways, doomy got to work ripping out the fender liner and pulling out the power antenna since we got the new mast in to replace the broken one. First off, the fender liner had a bolt that was held in by, no joke here, a smashed jaliscos cap as a washer. There's a crack where the bolt goes in. So, I guess this worked like a large washer. Still...smh. anywaus, Doomy gets the antenna out and.......it looks completely different than all the writeups I've seen on replacing the mast. Uh-oh... Google the part number on the motor and it comes back as a 3rd Gen 4runner or tacoma. So now I have a motor with no mast that doesn't belong in the truck. And a brand new Mast with no motor. If anyone has a motor they'd like to donate or sell, please let me know! I need one!
while Doomy yanked the antenna, I got to work fixing my mess of a wiring job for the starter relay. It still needs a 30 amp fuse, but I'll add that as soon as I get my order of connectors in. I think it looks pretty good and unless you look real close you can't tell it's there. My dad didn't notice it, and he's pretty observant.
anyways, pics.
Always fun opening up parts orders
Installed. Looks good. And didn't cost as much as I thought it'd be.
New pads.
New Slotted rotors. Hope this helps cut down on the warping.
New rear shoes.
See, I don't think you'd notice it unless you knew where to look. Side note, what's the finned aluminum block under the fuse box?
The motor in question. I don't even know if it works.
Stereo brackets came in so I can start cleaning up this wiring mess.
...what's the finned aluminum block under the fuse box?
Injector resistor network Mounts right next to stock starter relay here
The motor in question. I don't even know if it works.
Power antenna? Meh... More parts to break. I deleted mine and replaced it with hidden one sandwiched between topliner and fiberglas roof. Decent FM reception and so-so AM reception but less to worry about.
I never feel like I get anything accomplished with this truck. Spent the better part of 4 hours working on getting things done and didn't really do anything.
started working on the TPS to get it adjusted. Tried everything and couldn't get it to adjust correctly. Couldn't figure why it kept moving the throttle blade. We finally took the TB off to give us more room to work. We tried everything and it just wouldn't adjust correctly. Finally pulled it off and saw that ti was sticking partway through its sweep. Some electrical cleaning spray took care of that. Nice smooth movement. Put it back on and same issue. Then I got to looking at it closer. I realised that the whole time I had the ears riding on the wrong side of the throttle blade forks. Once we got it set, success! Hahaha. Just kidding. Nope. Still erratic readings. By chance, while we had it off again, I grabbed a multimeter probe and was goofing around messing with the spring. I unlatched it and latched it on again. That's when my dad noticed that the disc that the ears are on wobbled slightly. So, we hooked up the multimeter and wiggled it around and we started to get normal readings. So, we slapped it on the throttle body and wobble wobbled it around until we got a decent reading. Then locked it down very carefully.
after that I set the motor to TDC the old fashioned way. Pulled #1 cylinder and covered it with a finger then rotated the crank by hand. When pressure blew by the finger, TDC is next. Set the dizzy after that and locked it down.
While turning the crank, I unfortunately heard the sound of gears. Kmmediately I knew it was the starter. I've had a bad feeling about it since I first heard it turn the motor over. Well, my suspicions were warranted... I have no clue what the hell caused it to do this, but the gears have been partially stripped. About the first 1/4". Of the bear is worn off. I have no clue what is causing it, but at this point, I'm super frustrated. Just ready for it to be running already.
Troy, get in your car drive North 40 minutes to may place and just take the starter I have that is still in its unopened Rock Auto box. Its yours come and get it.
Ok, so new plan for the truck. I'm going to get the battery hooked up, back the truck onto the muddy grass outside the shop, pull the fuel filter line so the fuel pump pours gas on the starter and then crank the motor. Then I sit back and drink a bottle of whiskey as I watch that SOB burn to the ground.
Ok, so new plan for the truck. I'm going to get the battery hooked up, back the truck onto the muddy grass outside the shop, pull the fuel filter line so the fuel pump pours gas on the starter and then crank the motor. Then I sit back and drink a bottle of whiskey as I watch that SOB burn to the ground.
Well, i got the new starter from darkfairytales and a few other things to help bleed the coolant and pressure test it. Also stopped by the dealership and picked up new crush washers for the fuel filter line since its still weeping gas and a 97 4runner antenna mast.. came home, went to the shop, and started tearing down the antenna to get the new mast installed and of course the PO screwed everything up again. The old mast was jammed in the tube with a 10penny nail. i had to drive it out with a punch. Also found out that he nailed the cown down...yes, NAILED it in place... after getting it out of the tube i tried to get the mast in again. no luck. there is a plastic sheath where you insert the mast. the PO has damaged that sheath so much that the new mast wont even fit into the motor assembly. So now, i jave 2 brand new masts, and no motor. Im extremely irritated by this point. So, i ho over to the starter, doomy gets it all bolted up and i turn the crank aaaannnnddd.........gear noises. Beyone livid by this point. literally drop my tools and leave the shop.
so, i guess its official. I have to pull the trans because i installed the damn flex plate backwards. Im frustrated as i have no way to drop the trans and i dont wanna pull the motor again. I have to order a transmission jack and try to find a way to lock the Flywheel so i can unbolt the Torque convertor. also have to disconnect the rear driveshaft, which i wasnt able to do before. so, i guess ill start spraying penetrating oil on them now. then, hopefully i can just slide the trans back 6" or so so i can get the bolts out of the flexplate and flip it around. Just an FYI, the FSM doesnt state which way to put the flex plate on.
im just...frustrated. at this point i just want the truck to go away. either that, or find the PO and beat him like a pinata. that might make me feel better.
Which reminds me. I never throw anything away. It's annoying. Would this be all you need to get your antenna going? It's off a 3rd gen antenna motor.
The bad:
(the dog hair makes it more special)
The rest:
Sorry for not replying sooner, hab. I've been a little angry with the truck this past week. Haven't even gone into the shop once.
your motor looks absolutely different than mine. I'll get better pics of it tonight so I can show you exactly it is that I need. Or rather needed.
trans jack should be here by next weekend. So that means this weekend doomy and I need to get everything loosened up and ready to come out. I'll also be ordering the trans mount from the dealership. Might as well since I'll be under there.
More goodies areived. Blue sea fuse block, dash mat, butt connector aet, mechanics stethoscope(to find that brrzzzt noose when the ignition is cycled) and an AEM UEGO. Not sure if I'm going to put the UEGO in the runner or put it in mazdaspeed protege. Or maybe I'll get another. I know I need to get a turbo timer for it too. But that's going to get wired in when the Viper alarm/remote start gets wired in.
only other news to report is that I might be picking this thing up.
Been sitting in a yard for a few years. Interior is gutted and there's no motor. Previous owner bought it with a bad motor and was going to make a hinting truck from it, but gave up. It's an 88 and other than some surface rust, the metal is straight. Frame is good, wheels are good, glass is good. I figure I can pick it up, get what I need/want off of it (like antenna and rear bumper, and either sell off the body or scrap it. Either way, I think it'll save me sme coin.
Today I went and picked up the parts truck. It's an 88 sr5. Was a v6 before the motor blew. It's got a really straight body although, the paint isn't stellar. I'll be stripping off the 2 sr5 wheels that are on it, the mirrors, seats, door panels, front bumperettes, rear bumper and bumperettes, roll bar, antenna and a few other items like CV axles, aisin hubs, and I'll be trying to sell the rest. If it doesn't sell, then it'll be off to the scrapper. If it gets that far, I'll be keeping the rear axle for a trailer project, the UCAS for cores for blazeland, and the doors to make half doors. Anyone need anything else, shoot me a PM. I might have what you're looking for.
obligatory pics
Last edited by space-junk; 04-02-2017 at 11:17 PM.
That rear bumper looks straight although rusty. Those things are gold. It would be good for someone if they painted it. How much would you want for the B-pillar plastic with faded emblems? How much for the plastic shields at the front of the rear wheel wells? I think they are called rock guards. Shipping to 23116. I can do PayPal.
Pms responded to. FWIW, I'm not trying to cut a fat hog in the ass. I don't really know what the parts are really worth except for the big stuff like IFS hubs (those are for sale too, fyi). So shoot me a PM with an offer of what you think they're worth. Worst I can say is no, but honestly, i have 28 days left to part it before it goes to the scrapper. So, I probably won't say no to much. Lol. I want to pay it forward with this truck as much as possible!
got back at it tonight. Trying little things that won't make me want to do bodywork with a sledgehammer. So I tackled straightening the fuel door. Wasn't too hard. And added benefit of allowing me to sell the 88s fuel door!
basically, the hinge either got rust or paint or diet in there and made it hard to open /close. I think someone had an issue with it and instead of oiling the hinge, they just slammed it shut, which bent the hinge. So I used a very small screw driver to provide leverage to bend the hinge back to the right orientation. Then a liberal amount of WD40. I will oil this again if it starts to feel "crunchy" again.
pics.
Bent hinge is on the bottom. You can see how the hinge folded on itself. KEEP THESE HINGES OILED!
Still needs to be adjusted to sit properly in the frame.
Much better when it sits flush.
Last edited by space-junk; 04-05-2017 at 02:29 AM.
03-24-2017, 10:08 PM
