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So I installed the replacement solenoid from Summit Racing - I RTV'ed it up before installing it and RTV'ed the wireless control module.
Finally got my Rope installed. The wireless control is wired in and everything is buttoned up.
I went back to try and fix the tail light issue I've been having (brake light flashes when turn signals are on). So we put in an incandescent bulb and the flashing went away. We replaced the 5 wire to 4 wire converter box thinking that was bad and no fix. So what I believe is happening is the "dual" use LED bulb that replaces the running/brake light bulb #1157 doesn't have the resistance required to prevent the flashing.
SOOOO... from my front page....
Originally Posted by paynemw
Also, got some Light Bulb Numbers for people to reference:
Toyota 4Runner
First generation (1984–1989)
High & low beam headlight H6054
Parking light 194
Front turn signal 1073
Rear turn signal 1073
Tail light 1157
Stop light 1157
License plate 194
Back up light 1073
Front sidemarker 194
Originally Posted by paynemw
Now your thinking about low resistance and the flasher relay... well on dsal's write up, some dude was kind enough to take pictures of the 4WD Toyota Owner magazine article that describes how to mod the stock Toyota Flasher Relay to allow for use of LEDs in the turn signal department. Below are nice clear pictures for your viewing pleasure.
This flasher Relay is located behind the kick panel on the driver side.
When you go to take the flasher apart, be careful and gentle. There are two clips on the flasher, however, the board slides into the housing, so you need to pull the top off level. Below is what you see when the cover has been removed from the flasher. Look for the small diode in the center bottom with a blue and brown stripe on the right side. That is the diode to remove. Before.
After. Plugged the flasher relay in, perfect, no issues, everything worked like it was stock.
I also replaced every bulb in the tail light housing with LEDs. So everything sans my headlights and the map lights are LED now. I did notice that the housing for my driver side courtesy light (in the door) is broken so I'll be looking for a new housing. But, everything went well.
Went to Rausch Creek this weekend. Was pretty surprised by the 4Runner. That Detroit really helps out. I kept up with some pretty heavily built later model Toyotas... a FZJ80 and a 2013 Tacoma.
Not much to update as of recently. I did loose a ton of gas mileage recently after I replaced the exhaust manifold and had a flex joint installed on the collector. So I replaced the O2 sensor with a OEM Denso O2 sensor and I threw in a new paper air filter and it went back to 20mpg. I also broke the alternator bracket some how, and I ordered a replacement Toyota one off of ebay - I haven't installed that yet. I need to resurface the flywheel and potentially replace the clutch. More to follow on that.
Guys, I'm moving out of the country and I can't bring my 4Runner. I sold the truck to a young kid who is working to become a Toyota Technician. I hope he enjoys the truck.
I recently purchase this 1986 runner. In spirit of ol' girl I've chosen to continue the build thread. I'm 19 and she's my very first. I'm also an aspiring toyota technician. Before buying it I noticed there was an oil leak on the front of the engine, some body rust and a beat up paint job and a flat tire. The next night after buying the truck I took it into my shop and gave her as much tlc I could in one night. I replaced the front crank seal, valve cover gasket, half moon gasket in an attempt to stop the leak. Once I finished those two I started cleaning the oil up with simple green and red rags. Halfway through I found a glob of Bondo on the timing chain cover and a crack. The Bondo was just old and trash. I have a master tech that will tig weld the crack for 20$ if I clean it up and prep it. After finishing up everything under the hood I moved on to the leaky tire and found a screw. I did a tire patch and remounted and balanced the tire. After fixing the flat I rolled her over to a rack and gave her an alignment. Once I was finish I put her back on the lift and gave it an oil change. Fire stone is trash and don't go there, the oil pan drain plug was wrenched on and the gasket was smashed paper thin. The oil filter was also incorrect. While draining the oil I noticed it was a little murky... Maybe a small head gasket leak... Once I filled her back up I put a few gallons in a jug in the back for just in case and topped off everything else (brake fluid, clutch fluid, coolant, washer fluid, power steering)
Update:
I'm covering the crack in the timing chain cover with Silicon to try and just patch it until I can replace the whole cover. The hood cowl has also become an issue. Oil gets sprayed on the windshield and makes it hard to see. After daily driving for a week or two there's some popping in the front when I cut the wheel all the way and its aggressive. I'm fairly sure my cvs need replacing. My clutch is also worn and is having trouble disengaging the gears. I have big plans. I'm going to replace the timing chain cover first then I'm going to replace my clutch soon with a stage one clutch then port and polish my intake and run an intake cleaning service at work. After the Polish I'm going to steal a solid front axel from a 1985 pick up for a SAS in the front and some sort of 2 inch lift. During my two inch lift and axel swap I'm getting a new 22re block and I'm going to build it slowly while slowly rebuilding my head part by part while on the current block. On the new block I'll be purchasing I will be putting in low compression pistons with high compressionrings, Forged internals, bigger cam, bigger crank, timing chain upgrade to prevent skipping, and To top it all off it will get a turbo charger. After all that the timing well be retarded some and a tune made for it. If you have any suggestions about the build please comment
Welcome to the addiction, glad to see this runner live on.
- the popping may be the notorious steering stops that make the noise at full lock. if you had ADD, then you would here the CV grind at any turn, but you have manual hubs.
- Make sure the clutch MC isn't the issue before you tear the clutch out.
- IMO, i'd replace the 22re with a more potent mill. You can spend a ton of money and time to extract a few more ponies from the lump, but at the end of the day its still a tractor engine. if I wasn't going diesel I'd cram a 1UZ in mine.
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^^ i wouldn't bother trying to heavily mod the 22re, either. they are best in stock form, or more correctly, where stock output is the goal. if you want horsepower, swap in something that has it. it will be cheaper to do so.
i have no plans to move on from my 22re. i like it just fine.
i also agree with rbx about the noise while turning; it very well could be the steering stop bolt heads rubbing on the limit bolster.
i haven't had much time to do much to the car. Today I was driving and my battery light and break light turned on. Looks like I'll be replacing an alternator. I found out the oil leak is coming from a crack in the timing cover. The POs PO didn't remove the hidden bolt that connects the headers to the timing cover so that's how my weekend will be spent. Any suggestions before I start trying to get my alt out?
And I'm fairly sure its the tires rubbing and the steering stops are missing. I ordered a set this passed week
Actually the tires do rub at full lock. I was going to put the larger T-bars in and then gain about another 1" up front to help with that. You really need to tub the lower wheel wells.
i haven't had much time to do much to the car. Today I was driving and my battery light and break light turned on. Looks like I'll be replacing an alternator. I found out the oil leak is coming from a crack in the timing cover. The POs PO didn't remove the hidden bolt that connects the headers to the timing cover so that's how my weekend will be spent. Any suggestions before I start trying to get my alt out?
The alternator isn't bad - check to see if the connection is fine. Remember I did an alternator swap. There's a good toyota alternator in the parts bin. The alternator you have is from an XJ6 with a machined pulley.
The alternator isn't bad - check to see if the connection is fine. Remember I did an alternator swap. There's a good toyota alternator in the parts bin. The alternator you have is from an XJ6 with a machined pulley.
i ended up pulling it and doing a few tests on it at school. the diode and voltage regulator went out (probably from a good oil coating) so i bought a second hand stock alt, grinded the mount on the alternator to get it to fit and bent the tensioner bracket and put that one in until i can afford a new or reman xj6 alt. im bringing her in to try and stop the oil leak with some jb weld or rtv and to clean the whole bay and begin to address a few of the rust spots and get her a new set of tires.
I've almost found the last leak. The oil pan was almost off so I'll be doing that gasket. The crack in the time cover is plugged. The oil spray looks like its coming from somewhere near the egr port. Maybe the rear half moon, hoping its not a head gasket or rear main. I will be doing a motor swap so I just need it to stop leaking until I'm ready. I'm rebuilding the trans this summer and once its rebuild it will be getting a new motor.... Another 7m swap will be on the way.
05-21-2016, 01:06 PM
