GeoRoss

Well, I installed the new oil pressure sender. I still don't have a working pressure gauge. The new oil pressure sender failed the FSM tests. I created another thread in the tech section.

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116.../#post52325741

GeoRoss

Tested an OEM Senkei oil pressure sender and different instrument cluster. Still no oil pressure.

GeoRoss

I went with the medium duty OME rear leafs, OME bushings and stock shackles. I had planned to remove a leaf. However, all the main leaves are riveted to leaf retain clips. I could have drilled one out but then I would have to put in another retaining clip. I didn't have the time or patience to do that. I could have removed the overload leaf, but that would have just lowered me down the thickness of that leaf for all practical purposes. If any of this is incorrect let me know. I decided to just put them in and see what it looks like.

This is what it looked like driving home lightly loaded.



Right after adding the lift.



I added ~550 lbs of pavers to help break in the springs. It only lowered it about an inch.



If they settle down to that height I'll be very happy. I can adjust the torsion bars to level it out a little. I don't want to roughen the ride so this 4runner will have a rake for the foreseeable future. I need to look into the LSPV adjustment. Braking was bit weak, but some of that is all that weight.

I also wish I had the time to swap the springs this past winter/spring. It was a bit warm.

GeoRoss

Well crap, I was looking at my LSPV and it looks like my spare may have bent the LSPV arm up a bit. This will complicate getting it fully functional I guess.

GeoRoss

Well, I haven't done much to the 4Runner other than use it.

I spent the past month working at an off-grid site in Northern Arizona. I have a new oil pressure gauge to put in, I just need to get a Yakazi pressure sending unit. I'm nervous about using the Sendei pressure sending unit as it doesn't behave like the FSM says it should. The test light blinks with the throttle response, not increase in intensity as the FSM says it should.

The springs work great. I do need new shocks badly. I also need to crank the t-bar a little to remove some of the stink bug. I was hoping that a month of bouncing on rutted roads and the like would settle things out, but not yet.

I was super surprised how I never got stuck with these Goodyear ST street tires. They have too much tread on them for me to replace, I'm being cheap. I do have some 15" American Racing wheels I may use for some more AT type tire and just swap them out based on the trip. I do enjoy 20 mpg around town.

I am starting to get some transmission noise in 3rd and 4th. It is most pronounce when I let off the throttle. I'll change the oil and see if that helps. If not I'll try to find a local W56B (?) and/or rebuild it. I've never done it, how hard can it be?







I need to start getting ready for fixing the exterior and interior. My original idea was to start on the outside and work in. However, I am getting antsy and may start doing things to the interior just to start making progress.

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

I see you have a tan/brown interior. If you are going to have paint mixed up, I would suggest getting at least 3 cans mixed up together so that they are evenly tinted. Interior paint works great when done correctly and makes a big difference.

86 87 4Runners

Your 4Runner very similar to mine. I used to have a step bumper originally. Just curious but whats does the manufacture month say inside the door jam?

GeoRoss

That is really good advice. Thanks!

GeoRoss

November, 1985

When I went out to check I noticed that my front oil leak has moved from weeping to dripping. DOH!

Spacemonkee23

My front main seal is leaking too. Still a weep but that can change at any time. If yours turns out to be the front main seal check out this video.

GeoRoss

Thanks,

Right now after 500 highway miles it doesn't look to be using any more oil than usual. I'm gearing up to replace the front seal on my Land Cruiser. I just need to figure out how I'm going to torque the crank to 310 ft/lbs. I'm guessing the 22RE will be easier. At least I am hoping it will be.

GeoRoss

I had some success this weekend. I now have a functional oil pressure gauge. I bought a SR5 manual transmission gauge cluster made by Yakazi over the summer. The oil pressure gauge didn't work and failed the FSM test. I also had all sorts of trouble with the oil pressure senders I bought. The Senkei oil pressure sender I bought from LCE and the Intermotor one do not behave as the FSM says they should. One of the FSM tests is to use a test bulb connected to the oil sender. The intensity of the bulb should increase with increasing throttle. The Senkei and Intermotor oil pressure senders cause the light to blink and blink faster with increasing throttle. The Yakazi oil pressure sender behaves as the FSM says it should. I don't know if this is a big deal as I didn't test my functional oil pressure gauge with the Senkei sender, but I would highly recommend buying the OEM Yakazi oil pressure sender from the dealer. It could be that either will work, but since neither of the oil pressure senders behaved correctly gives me cause for concern.

Sadly, the oil pressure/temp gauge replacement that was sent to me had a faulty temp gauge. One step forward, one step back. DOH! I thought I might be able to swap in the functional temp gauge. It looks like it may be super difficult to remove those needles and that is necessary to swap individual gauges. Maybe it could be done, but I went to looking at the faulty temp gauge. Using this thread as a guide https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...ge-fix-271152/ I noticed that there is a resistor on the PCB board. The resistor on the faulty temp gauge looked toasted. I swapped in the PCB board from the working temp gauge and I now have both a working temp gauge and oil pressure gauge. Two steps forward.

My odometer quite working. The pin that hold the numbers in place had come loose last month when driving over rough roads for a month. Easy fix and it now works.

The dome light didn't come on when the driver door opened, but it did with the passenger door. I thought I had read that mucking/unplugging the buzzer could cause this problem. I have no buzzer so I thought this might be it. I pulled the buzzer and it seemed to be functioning according to the FSM. I then looked at the door switch. It was unplugged. LOL. I plugged it in but still no working. I pulled the switch and it was filthy. I cleaned it with brake cleaner and now the dome light comes on when the ds door opens. I also get an open door buzzer function. Maybe I'll quit locking my keys in the 4Runner now.

RAD4Runner

It's a 1986, 22RE - Manual... but made in Nov 1985... So I'm guessing it does not have a starter relay?

GeoRoss

I haven't checked, but I suspect it doesn't. Knock-on-wood, I have not experienced the no-start problem. I am aware that this can be a problem and of your solution. Great job there for the community. My transmission noise is worse and I suspect (hope) it is one of the bearings in the clutch as all noise goes away when the clutch isn't engaged. So I am giving the 4Runner a breather until I look into this and do a brake job. I might as well check out the starter circuit and fix that. If I do that I might as well look into your solution about the headlight circuit running through the steering wheel stalk. Then I need to address the leaking power steering and the other nagging oil leaks.

Slowly but surely I'll get all these minor mods and maintenance issues dealt with. Sadly, they keep me from the cosmetic jobs I wish I could tackle. Case in point, I was pulled over the other day for a cracked windshield for a crack in the lower left side of the windshield and doesn't reach the edges of the windshield. I was hoping to replace the windshield when I get the truck painted. Not this time sadly and this gets pushed to the front of the cue.

GeoRoss

Got the new windshield in. There was minor surface rust in the usual areas with mild pitting. Wire wheeled it and primed it. The installer used enough urethane, it spooged out more than I would have liked. Sadly I broke one of the A-pillar trim taking out the right side one. I'm pretty pissed at myself. The chrome trim came off pretty easily. I'll trying to decide if I will pull the windshield when I paint. I would like to do a better job on the rust repair as I was really rushed. The installer pulled the windshield and while he was getting other stuff ready I went to town with a wire brush and scotch pad.

Eventually I'd like to use something other than the chrome trim.

GeoRoss

I put new shoes in the back, Napa premium brand. I replaced the hardware, but needed to reuse the parking brake/adjuster fulcrum stud. I got a full reminder how much I hate drum brakes. There was no sign of wheel cylinder leakage, but a little brake fluid came out. Booooooo! I had contemplated rebuilding or replacing the wheel cylinders. I put it back together and will replace the wheel cylinders when new ones arrive. I think I will change out I adjust the brakes next time too. I just adjusted them to their minimum, put the drum on and used the parking brake. It must have been 30 cycles or more. I'll measure the drums and approximate the adjustment next time.

In worse news, I spent some time chasing oil leaks. One appeared to be the low pressure PS line as it feeds into the pump. I cleaned it up and tightened the hose. I'm afraid I may not have been the only PS leak. Due to time I may need to farm this one out. My alternator is filthy and has probably had it's life span shortened as well. Once this is fixed and I get everything cleaned up I'll be able to see if there are engine oil leaks. The front bolts of the oil pan are very wet. I can't tell if it is from the PS or the oil pan. Resealing the oil pan does not look like fun.

GeoRoss

Ouch!

I should have asked what the shop time was on changing the ps pump and both ps hoses. If I had known I would have made time to do it myself. Granted I now have time to get the Land Cruiser running this weekend. My deadline is that I have to get both trucks smog tested and registered this month and I'll be traveling a lot. My fault for letting it get this close.

GeoRoss

I had sort of a belated "Eureka!' moment today. I have had a transmission whine for some time. It happens during deceleration in 3rd or 4th and goes away with the clutch pedal in. I assumed I had a bad input bearing and have half heartedly been looking for another W56B. Then today I just put together that the noise appeared sometime after I put the OME spring in. I'm betting that my pinion angle is off. As I understand it, the pinion should be horizontal. Is that correct? I really hope this is the problem. Shims are not on easier to put in than a new transmission, but a heck of lot less expensive.

I'm getting slow on the uptake. DOH!

GeoRoss

The family needed a snow capable vehicle nest week for a snow vacation. The 4Runner has street tires that would do badly. The PO gave me a set of 15" AMR wheels. I found a set of inexpensive Goodyear Wranglers that will do much better. Not my first choice, but a snow vacation waits on nothing. Besides, 80's mojo has to add hp or something.

RAD4Runner

Nice! the MoreFunner...