When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
^X2, I didn't buy mine outright, I got them used with my parts truck, but I've been really happy with them.
Hey Tim, how's the truck been treating you since the engine swap?
Not all that well... I'm chasing oil leaks, coolant leaks and wiring gremlins constantly. I haven't been able to get it fully on the road yet, but it's coming along little by little.
I thought I’d bump my thread after about a 4 year hiatus.
I’ve gotten married, got an engineering degree, built 3 racecars with various SAE teams and I have a kid on the way now. It’s been an insane time, but I wouldn’t trade it for anything.
I also got a sweet new daily as a graduation present.
She’s a 2015 Ford Focus ST. I call her Ruby and what a riot she is.
I have had time to get to get things done on the truck while all that is going on.
Right before I got married money was super tight and I had the truck up for sale. I know that seems crazy after all the work that’s gone into it, but it was out there. The good news is it didn’t sell, so I kept it.
Friends and family came through with help and I bought some new goodies for the rig. One of those things being a welder.
It’s a Tosense 520 TSC. It has TIG, stick and plasma cutting functionality. It sucks for anything but producing an arc... I was still able to get a half decent weld out of it a couple of times while I built the exhaust. Here’s a few pictures of welds and routing:
I’m not sure how well this pictures will import since I’m doing this from my phone. I’ll fix them at some point if they suck.
The exhaust was a three month job only working at it a few hours a week. The components for it were sourced from Advanced Auto Parts and Summit. I do not recommend Advanced for steel. It just doesn’t weld as good as pipe from other places.
I had had to use the pie cut method to run the tube through the tight sections. I can upload the CAD drawings as PDF’s if anyone is in need of 2.5” or 3” tubing pie cut templates at a 1” curve radius.
The exhaust needs a couple more hangars and tubes out the back, but it sounds fantastic just the way it is. The exhaust is made up of 3” tube off of the headers into 2.5” thrush weld-in mufflers for a 4.6 liter mustang. I got them off of the Facebook marketplace for $25. Some guy had them on his V6 mustang, but they rattled because they were too big to fit under his car lol.
I also fixed the rats nest of a wiring job that was done to get the truck going. I’ve triple insulated everything and removed unnecessary wiring. I burnt through some of the stuff that I originally routed since it was too close to the headers. Lesson learned. I also have a video of a hard pull with open headers:
So I have a 93 toyota 22re efi and am wanting to put a 94 ford 5.0 efi in it have a complete donor truck so I'm seeing what parts I can put in my toyota. should I swap Moter with trans ,axles. I have read plenty of threads just looking for more info thank you.
So I have a 93 toyota 22re efi and am wanting to put a 94 ford 5.0 efi in it have a complete donor truck so I'm seeing what parts I can put in my toyota. should I swap Moter with trans ,axles. I have read plenty of threads just looking for more info thank you.
With a grinder, welder and enough imagination you could swap everything over. You would have to move spring perches on axles, make a trans cross member, make motor mounts (I doubt any swap kit motor mounts would put the engine in the right spot for what you need), make drive shafts, on top of wiring and all the little stuff that goes along with making a swap work reliably. That’s obviously a really abbreviated list, but you seem like you have done your research so you know what you’re in for lol.
I just mated the 5.0 to the Toyota trans because that seemed easier. If you have a complete donor truck you could potentially do this swap at almost no cost if the donor truck runs and drives. That would be a long project though. In the future I may swap the trans and axles, but it’s working fine for what I need right now (just a weekend cruiser).
Any which way you decide to go is gonna be sweet when it’s done. V8 Toyota’s Rock 🤘🏼 Good luck to you!
Any advice on doing a 94 4runner swap with the 302? Pictures and parts of build helps greatly
Hey Ethan! My best advice would be to buy the engine swap kit from Northwest Off-road that suits your 4Runner transmission. The kits are well worth the money. I would not buy the headers unless you have a body lift on your truck.
Also, do a lot of research into what you need and don’t need under the hood. I’m not sure about your ‘94, but my ‘86 had some brackets and fittings on the fire wall that I should have cut off. Removing the engine wiring harness and figuring out what you do and don’t need and placing the ford wiring harness into it is beneficial. Finally, clean everything thoroughly before you swing the engine in. Other than that it’s a straight forward swap. The 302’s make good power with minor upgrades.
The parts you need are going to depend on what your end goal is. There are lots of good build threads such as Ed’s 302 swapped 4Runner. I would start by reading through all of that and making a list of parts that you know you’ll need to meet your goals.
I hope this helps. If you run across a question about anything more specific feel free to shoot me a message.
Also, if you are on Instagram, check out cpljenkins01 and shoot him a message. I think his swap will be more similar to your than mine is.
I appreciate it, I have majority of my parts listed out. I was thinking of using I believe the T5 which calls for new adapter. I am really trying to avoid going through NWOF as much as I possibly can.
Any new information on a radiator and fan set up that works, also I saw you you or someone else had mentioned a serpentine belt system didnt create more clearance. I was looking at one but I dont want to purchase one if it wont help with that.
I haven't posted in a while. Since last time I've gotten a few things done.
I put on that rough country lift. That was a b-word because I had to cut out 2 of the camber bolts and get the bushings pressed out and put back in. What a nightmare that was!
I installed the engine and transmission using the stock F-250 oil pan. It barely clears the front differential.
Everything holds oil and doesn't leak.
I installed and wired the started and fuel pump.
I installed the stock headers. The NWOR headers don't even come close to fitting.
I dressed the front end of the motor with all the stock gear (air pump, a/c compressor, alternator, and power steering pump).
I installed the carburetor and plumbed a line from the fuel pump to the micro fuel filter on the front of the carb.
I got all the plugs and wires attached and almost got it to fire up Tuesday night.
I was running into issues with timing. When I went out to try to start it again today, all I would get is a loud click, whenever I'd try to start it. Any ideas as to what would cause that would be much appreciated. And yes the battery is fully charged.
Thanks for looking!
Tim
What oil pan was used ? Did it fit without the lift ?? Need help
What oil pan was used ? Did it fit without the lift ?? Need help
I used the stock 1987 F250 oil pan. It would not clear the front differential without the lift. The truck is IFS. Not sure if a SAS would have made a difference.
Another note: the drain plug lets the oil out all over the front chunk, so a spigot and tube was needed for cleaner oil changes.
If I did the swap again I would have modified the oil pan and oil pick up tube to fit without a lift.
05-18-2015, 02:13 PM
