Ed's getting the 4Runner back on the road
#1
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Thread Starter
Ed's getting the 4Runner back on the road
Truck has been in storage for several years.....
Going to get the truck rolling for weekend / occasional use
Going to get the truck rolling for weekend / occasional use
#4
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Thread Starter
Kept the Acura Legend (aka Japanese Buick) and a MKII Golf street parked beater car.
So the 4Runner went into intermittent storage circa 2003 ish and finally went to "sleep" in 2007.
I kept the Registration up, and USAA Insurance has a category called "Insured Non Driven" which is like $20 a year or something.
In 2008 we sold the 94 Acura Legend and picked up a new Subaru Forester XT Sports (the last of the North American Manual Turbo Bricks)
Recenly, an "starving artist" friend needed some wheels, and so I gave up the beloved (and very sorted) VW MKII.
The MKII looked terrible (dings and stuff) but had Passat springs and Bilstien HDs - basically - lowered performance spring rates on an OEM ride height stance. Perfect for pothole rally.
So I put the 4Runner back on the road.
Im the original owner.
360K miles on the odo.
Proof is here
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...ticker-116246/
Last edited by ewong; 09-12-2016 at 05:04 PM.
#5
Registered User
Thread Starter
Called 22RE Performance for parts....
Ordered:
The hard line water pipe that goes under the header. - mine is rusted bad.
Some other heater hoses
the AC idler pulley
the PS tension pulley bearing
other misc parts (brake bleeder caps)
I need to rotate the pic
It shows how rusted the #2 pipe is
The hard line water pipe that goes under the header. - mine is rusted bad.
Some other heater hoses
the AC idler pulley
the PS tension pulley bearing
other misc parts (brake bleeder caps)
I need to rotate the pic
It shows how rusted the #2 pipe is
Last edited by ewong; 09-12-2016 at 04:59 PM.
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#8
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Thread Starter
I cut down the former Downey IFS Skid plate.
The bar originally had 2 stringers running down to the lower A Arm front crossmember. It basically rusted apart.
I re- installed the stock splash shield and then cut the Downey skid plate so it sort of looks like a Pre Runner bash plate.
BTW - since the way that bar is mounted relies on two welds - that black bar is more for decoration than any real "protection"
Those rectangular Hella 550 sized lights are actually the much misunderstood Hella XL low beam fill in lights.
IMHO they are better than "fogs" as they run a tad higher.
Those massive PIAA 80 series racing H4 (yes - dual beam) lights are amazing.
Im running them with "ion" yellow bulbs. They are THE light to have in a blizzard headed up the highway.
Modified Downey Skid Plate
small garage
The bar originally had 2 stringers running down to the lower A Arm front crossmember. It basically rusted apart.
I re- installed the stock splash shield and then cut the Downey skid plate so it sort of looks like a Pre Runner bash plate.
BTW - since the way that bar is mounted relies on two welds - that black bar is more for decoration than any real "protection"
Those rectangular Hella 550 sized lights are actually the much misunderstood Hella XL low beam fill in lights.
IMHO they are better than "fogs" as they run a tad higher.
Those massive PIAA 80 series racing H4 (yes - dual beam) lights are amazing.
Im running them with "ion" yellow bulbs. They are THE light to have in a blizzard headed up the highway.
Modified Downey Skid Plate
small garage
Last edited by ewong; 09-24-2016 at 05:12 PM.
#10
Registered User
Thread Starter
DROPZONE
That was a "knock off" alum bull bar made in Aussie, and imported in the late 80s.
Brand was called "Aussie Bullbar"
They "went under" and were selling the bars for $99
I got it shipped to Colorado (I think the importer was based in TX) and drove from NJ to CO to pick it up
Also to see my sister (where it was shipped to) and to go skiing.
The PreRunner bar was the Downey one (as mentioned)
That was a "knock off" alum bull bar made in Aussie, and imported in the late 80s.
Brand was called "Aussie Bullbar"
They "went under" and were selling the bars for $99
I got it shipped to Colorado (I think the importer was based in TX) and drove from NJ to CO to pick it up
Also to see my sister (where it was shipped to) and to go skiing.
The PreRunner bar was the Downey one (as mentioned)
#11
Registered User
Thread Starter
attempted to fix the water pipe
The LAST time I did this - I recall it was really easy
Then again, the last time I did this, I was replacing the Cyl head.
Its really easy when everything is apart!
The OEM hose had this oddball "middle section" thing.
The newer formed hose, does NOT.
BUT
The newer hose now has a bend in it...
Got to use the Harbor Freight arbor press
Broken Alt Bracket...second time
BUT
After market HiPo 140A Wrangler alternator
Cylinder Head markings
JM for Jess Miller Machine Shop of West Chester PA (now run by his sons)
009 shaved off (two passes)
New formed hose has a bend in it. No longer needs the funky insert metal thing
Got to use the crow foot
But the bolt hit the pulley
That was NOT the way to take it apart
The LAST time I did this - I recall it was really easy
Then again, the last time I did this, I was replacing the Cyl head.
Its really easy when everything is apart!
The OEM hose had this oddball "middle section" thing.
The newer formed hose, does NOT.
BUT
The newer hose now has a bend in it...
Got to use the Harbor Freight arbor press
Broken Alt Bracket...second time
BUT
After market HiPo 140A Wrangler alternator
Cylinder Head markings
JM for Jess Miller Machine Shop of West Chester PA (now run by his sons)
009 shaved off (two passes)
New formed hose has a bend in it. No longer needs the funky insert metal thing
Got to use the crow foot
But the bolt hit the pulley
That was NOT the way to take it apart
#12
Registered User
Thread Starter
I put in a new PS adjuster pulley bearing.
The other one was making noise, then I soaked it it oil and it quieted down.
But at 360K, I think it deserves to be retired.
The AC adjuster pulley will be replaced as well
I just haven't gotten to that yet
The other one was making noise, then I soaked it it oil and it quieted down.
But at 360K, I think it deserves to be retired.
The AC adjuster pulley will be replaced as well
I just haven't gotten to that yet
#14
Registered User
Thread Starter
I noticed that there were "burrs" created by the U Joint cross is shoved over to move the cap out.
So I dremel'd off the burrs.
The caps went in REAL SMOOTH.
The first one (other end) I did - I had to really crank on the U Press to get the caps in.
I put the shaft in and take a test drive and - uh oh.... 27mph gets me a "whump"
So I get a cheap U Joint (CarQuest is supposed to have DanaSpicer 1310, but nope - only the cheap stuff - Mexico / Moog)
And Yes, Dana Spicer 1310. This is NOT the original drive shaft.
I pull the caps out (now that I know I have to beat the second one over, using a plastic dead blow hammer) and take a peak.
Dremel off the burrs.
Take a look at the cross. None of the pins fell over. Decide - what the heck - put it back together with the 1310 (not the new cheap one)
Take it for a drive - no more whump
Ive got other vibrations - but on a 27 year old East Coast Rust belt - modded suspension truck, its gonna rattle...
So I dremel'd off the burrs.
The caps went in REAL SMOOTH.
The first one (other end) I did - I had to really crank on the U Press to get the caps in.
I put the shaft in and take a test drive and - uh oh.... 27mph gets me a "whump"
So I get a cheap U Joint (CarQuest is supposed to have DanaSpicer 1310, but nope - only the cheap stuff - Mexico / Moog)
And Yes, Dana Spicer 1310. This is NOT the original drive shaft.
I pull the caps out (now that I know I have to beat the second one over, using a plastic dead blow hammer) and take a peak.
Dremel off the burrs.
Take a look at the cross. None of the pins fell over. Decide - what the heck - put it back together with the 1310 (not the new cheap one)
Take it for a drive - no more whump
Ive got other vibrations - but on a 27 year old East Coast Rust belt - modded suspension truck, its gonna rattle...
#15
DROPZONE
That was a "knock off" alum bull bar made in Aussie, and imported in the late 80s.
Brand was called "Aussie Bullbar"
They "went under" and were selling the bars for $99
I got it shipped to Colorado (I think the importer was based in TX) and drove from NJ to CO to pick it up
Also to see my sister (where it was shipped to) and to go skiing.
The PreRunner bar was the Downey one (as mentioned)
That was a "knock off" alum bull bar made in Aussie, and imported in the late 80s.
Brand was called "Aussie Bullbar"
They "went under" and were selling the bars for $99
I got it shipped to Colorado (I think the importer was based in TX) and drove from NJ to CO to pick it up
Also to see my sister (where it was shipped to) and to go skiing.
The PreRunner bar was the Downey one (as mentioned)
I'll give you what you paid for it plus shipping
#17
Registered User
Thread Starter
A few details left to work on
-- clean up wiring mess behind the radio
-- hook up an amp to the rear Bose 101 speakers
-- FUSE the main charge cable
-- deal with the Schroth AutoControl harness
-- ADD a switch to the AutoControl to reduce relay burn out
-- temp fix the PASS side wheel well rust
on the wish list
-- ToyotaFiberglass body
-- Spring UNDER conversion for the rear axle
win the lottery items
-- Full Floater rear axle FROF
-- Rear Disc conversion using IFS huibs
-- Total Chaos front suspension
-- Marlin Dual case, R150 trans swap
-- clean up wiring mess behind the radio
-- hook up an amp to the rear Bose 101 speakers
-- FUSE the main charge cable
-- deal with the Schroth AutoControl harness
-- ADD a switch to the AutoControl to reduce relay burn out
-- temp fix the PASS side wheel well rust
on the wish list
-- ToyotaFiberglass body
-- Spring UNDER conversion for the rear axle
win the lottery items
-- Full Floater rear axle FROF
-- Rear Disc conversion using IFS huibs
-- Total Chaos front suspension
-- Marlin Dual case, R150 trans swap
#18
Registered User
Thread Starter
Oh Yeah -
STOCK type muffler in stainless steel
I may opt for a "bolt on" type fix via a SuperTrapp tip muffler with not to many baffle plates (increase back pressure)
https://www.magnaflow.com/products?partNumber=13650
STOCK type muffler in stainless steel
I may opt for a "bolt on" type fix via a SuperTrapp tip muffler with not to many baffle plates (increase back pressure)
https://www.magnaflow.com/products?partNumber=13650
Last edited by ewong; 05-28-2017 at 08:09 AM.
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