duckhead

Some vacuum hose pics. Needed some more of the smaller vac hose and it came in the mail. The ADD soaks up a lot of length…
Hoses to the airtank



VSV and hose octopus goes away with the swap which is nice. Just need these 2 for the ADD.



Leave the VSV and go to the front port on the intake manifold and the front differential



Front differential tube layout



I routed the vacuum hoses using the clips shown. Worked well



That top vac line from previous pic utilizes the throttle cable bracket. I accidentally plugged it into the wrong port when I took the pic.





½” SS clamps came in and dressed up that fuel vapor line on the firewall.





Put the radiator fan in before the radiator… Won’t fit if you do the radiator first. At least I couldn’t get it to work that way



Wire wheeled the radiator a good amount to take off the rust and roughen it up a bit for paint.





Soaked it in some CLR for a few hours but it didn’t really seem to take out much of the scaling inside. It was worth a shot. I went through 2 bottles for this at 50/50



My stop cock was broke on the radiator so got a new one with a o-ring

Stop cock – 90910-09054
O-ring – 96711-19007





Radiator ready for install



Dropped in rad





Fan shroud next. Remove the lower section or it won’t slide in. Put it on next. I painted the clips a while back…



Clips snap in



From Elvota’s... or theMonch... swap thread. I can't remember which one as it's been a while since I've looked at it but wanted to give credit where credit is due. Instead of reinventing the wheel, I went to NAPA and used the hoses he used.

Lower rad hose – Napa – 7559
Upper rad hose – Napa – 7571



Upper installed with lots of room. I did cut a very small amount to get the fitment so it wasn’t rubbing on the fan shroud.





I thought I mocked everything up properly but I cut the lower hose too short… I’m wondering if I cut the wrong side after I cut the large bend out of it. Tube rubs on the power steering lines when installed. Need about an inch or two for it to work





Going to head to NAPA or another store tomorrow to try and find a hose that will work… Doubt I can get the same one to try again as I needed to order it. Was hoping to turn the key soon but really want the radiator setup before I do.

The throttle bracket dried enough to be installed



Vac hoses were rubbing a bit in the front. Old clip from the fuel lines that fit perfectly with the throttle cable

84 yota dude

Why no ADD delete? I hear it's not that desirable for 3.0s at least. Also, not sure who makes it but there is some hard core chemical rinse you can put in the radiator to clean things out.Haha that probably wasn't that helpful

duckhead

I was waiting for someone to ask I'm going to use the truck quite a bit on the road so I want to keep a smoother ride. This is the main reason for keeping the ADD.

Always good to get advice so your help/advice is appreciated! I should have probably looked at different avenues but thought CLR would have done the trick. I have a picture of the scaling I took today that I'll post tomorrow. It's too late and I want to go to bed I also found a radiator hose that works from NAPA and picked up a new rad cap from dealer!

84 yota dude

Gotcha! haha
Also are you powder coating these parts?

duckhead

I wish I was coating em! Spending too much on parts, can't afford the coatings I'm using a krylon zinc rich primer and an enamel paint for the small parts. The bigger stuff a while back I used the Masterseries silver to prime and their Ag111 black top coat. Hardens really nice. I'd do everything in Masterseries but the rattle can paint is more convenient with all of these little random parts I've been doing in the engine bay. The problem with rattle can is that it takes way too long for it to harden completely. I used to use Rustoleum rusty metal primer but it would stay soft for days. I could still leave a fingernail print in it after a few days. This is why I switched to the Krylon...

duckhead

Here’s a pic of the scaling in the radiator after the CLR treatment. Like I said, not much improvement. As yota dude said, probably should have used a better treatment.




My old radiator cap was worn out with split rubber. May have gotten away with it but I would only be prolonging the inevitable.



New Toyota cap – 16401-63010



NAPA surprised me with a hose that I think was nearly identical. Seems to be exact replica

NAPA - 8965



Cut the new hose this time with plenty of length for the bottom radiator side



Plenty of clearance from the factory PS hard lines! It doesn’t seem as rigid as the previous one. You can see some cobra head in the hose but the constriction shouldn’t be problematic. Many report the coolant running cold anyway.



And the overflow tank is in



Dumped fluid in everything. Put Valvoline DEX/MERC in for power steering. Still need to bleed that.



Lucas DOT 3 for clutch and brakes



And because I don’t have the shifters in and side filling the T-case/transmission is a PITA, I filled them through the shifter seats. Open the actual fill plug and dump it in until it gets to the top as it should be. I used the cheapest Gl-5 80W-95 gear oil I could find. Service manual calls for 75W-90 but cheapest I could find was the weight I used. I'm only going to use this to break things in and make sure there aren't any leaks. The good stuff will go in later.

84 yota dude

I like your thinking! I painted my shifter lever with rustoleum and I have to agree it took forever to dry.

duckhead

New dual pair RCA cables came. Look like much better quality but don’t believe this should matter considering it’s just a cheap back up camera. Nevertheless, progress…



Pulled them in half to get a single cable and reran the wire through the rear frame harness. Took off all old tape to expose troughs and tucked the cable inside.



Front half all finished up



Back half… well I need to put new trailer harness on there. Pretty funny what the previous owner did there. Didn’t take a picture but I will when I end up fixing it properly. Leaving it as is so I can get the truck started.



Next up was the oil catch can. Bought a Morosso with the drain valve. Thought this would be convenient but man… the unit has some depth. More than I anticipated/hoped for. Many talk about the room that opens up with the 3.4. I’m just not seeing it Don’t get me wrong, the engine bay looks “simpler” but it seems pretty congested to me. For ease of hose routing, the best placement I determined was between the evap box and the battery. Not sure if I’m happy with the mount I made. It’s pretty basic and light. I should have used a thicker flat stock but it gets the job done. I really don't like how it needs to be so far away from the sidewall either. It's unavoidable though due to the damn drain valve. A redesign and/or replacement could be in the future but only after I get everything back together. It's possible I got caught up in the Morosso reviews and I should have went with a basic can to save space Ah well... Lesson learned. May put a second can in for the driver side port off the back. Likely won't be a drain valve can

Mount mock up utilizing existing holes.





Painted it up and dropped it in





Forgot to take a picture with the hoses but I’ll do that next time I get to work on it. Could be a while….

Turkhunt

WOW. incredible detail. I wish that I did my rebuild as thorough as you have. Next time I tear her down, I will be looking at your post again.
Keep up the perfect work. Can't wait to see the completion. I'm not as patient as you, LOL.

duckhead

Thanks Turk! Hopefully my trials and tribulations will help when you do it again. Your truck looks great!!! I found I needed to be patient My free time to work on the truck happens in bursts so I'm not always able to get any work done on it. Been a while since I've been able to turn a wrench on it now. I lost the rush to get it done though too due to the 2 year wait for the fiberglass bed. Don't get me wrong... I want to get it done, but now that it will need to wait to be "complete" until the bed comes in... Well I'm at peace with it Can't get it out of my head though!

Zach_trun

incredibly detailed, great job, i spend all my freetime reading this thread, excited to see the finished product!

duckhead

Thanks Zach! I haven't worked on it much lately with the cold weather and such. Things are warming up though and it'll be good to get back at it. I did get a few really small things done though that I need to post on. Do that when I get some free time. Busy busy on this end...

OilTrash

Any updates? I'm stoked to see how this looks finished.

Green93

I read this thread to get myself focused on my build. Nice work and great detail.

duckhead

Thanks OilTrash and Green! Sorry for the delay but finally making some time for a small update! Didn’t get a whole lot done over the winter but this is what I got…Put in a new PCV
Toyota - 12204-62010 (For the 5vz)



Dropped in new hoses for the PCV to the catch can… I also put in aluminum billet hose clamps to secure the hoses and I ordered the hoses from ebay. Go the ebay route if you want these clamps as they were MUCH cheaper than going through other established online vendors. At least from what I could find...



I filled the brake reservoir with fluid and when I looked at it a couple days later I found out real quick that the SS flex line I bought from Napa was defective :mad: Brake fluid all over the floor pan. The flared fitting from Napa was defective It was depressed in one spot which caused a poor seal. Needless to say, I had to rip up the old tar sound deadener on driver side to clean up the mess before it chewed up the paint. Amazing how far that oil creeped. Hoping I cleaned it up good enough...


New hardware for the driveshaft because I lost the old ones…



Put the driveshaft on so should be ready to roll!



I have some time to work on the truck now too so hopefully more regular updates. I'm working on the doors now and switching everything to power (mirrors, locks, windows) so I should hopefully be throwing up some good progress soon.

duckhead

As promised! Doors!

The goal for ME was to convert everything to power. This will be an unpopular choice for many due to the "more things to break" mentality. Fortunately I like to fix broken stuff Jokes aside, it's a convenience thing. Tired of leaning over to roll down/up window etc. (1st world problems I know). Anyway... I also want some sound in the truck. Everyone knows the original speakers are pretty awful. I had a set of 6x9 speakers inside some boxes behind the seat. I will retain these but want to add speakers to the door too. I wanted to make it look as factory as possible. Saw someone use Tacoma pods and thought it looked great. After searching high and low these were the best condition pods I could find in a "blue" color at the pick and pull. I believe blue doesn't exist in the Tacoma and Toyota refers to this as "blue-gray" but correct me if I'm wrong...




Very easy to pull off the panel. Just remove a few screws on the back side.




While I was at the yard I also found an SR5. I want to keep everything as stock as possible for function so I ripped out the wiring from the engine harness as well as the door control module. I also pulled the doors from the same vehicle to transplant the power guts into my doors. On the drivers side, these 2 plugs need to be disconnected. They go to the doors. The other end needs to be pulled from the wire harness.




The passenger side is similar... disconnect these plugs




Now the engine harness is going to be an absolute PITA to split apart. You will need to disassemble the entire dash if you go this route. Cut as little as possible. Some will be unavoidable because there are quite a few splices throughout. Pic below is for a ground splice...




I cut around 7 wires. When your done your spaghetti bowl should look similar to this with the green door control module




Forgot to post but I cut holes in the door for the rubber grommet before I sent the doors out to get painted. If your lucky enough to live somewhere that doesn’t eat 20+ year old vehicles, try to just find a door with power everything already in it.



Pretty obvious where to drill the hole in the cab.



Taped it up to protect the paint… Or at least try to protect it. Sprayed it with some primer afterwards.



Cut it with a hole saw



Now doors can be mounted up. I bought all new weather stripping for around the doors. I bought these a long time ago
Toyota – 67862-35010
Toyota – 67861-35010



A curved pick helps install the weatherstripping where it needs to get behind the metal lip of the door.



I reused the window molding



Take your donor doors and begin disassembling. Disassembly is nearly identical, with obvious exceptions, to the manual doors. Be careful with the tabs so the tabs don’t pull through the cheap press board.



Remove panel





Use truck battery and some spare wiring to position window for removal.





Remove power window regulator



Remove the “new” power lock mechanism from the donor door. I removed it through the bottom hole in the door. I didn’t take pics but the manual regulator also needs to be removed in a similar manner.



Remove the manual latch/lock mechanism from receiving door



Difference between the manual and powered latch/lock mechanism.



My handles had a few more scratches than the donor so I traded for the “prettier” handle… Here are the handles



By doing so, the lock mechanisms are the only things that need to be traded out. Pull out the keeper



Should pop out then as shown in the picture below… Then just plug it into the new handle.



Problem with the "new" handles is that when installed in the door, very large gap that will channel the rainfall to the bottom of the door which will inevitably cause the ever popular Toyota door rot.



RTV black to the rescue. Only thing I could think of to seal it up that I had on hand. Plus the color should make it unnoticeable. Put it on the handle.



Then on the door itself.



Installed and wiped the excess away. Turned out great. Can’t even tell it’s there



Inner door showing the handle and the power latch/lock mechanism installed



Window can now be installed.



Need to move the actuator up/down in order to bolt the window in. Run some wires to the battery again...






It's late so if I glossed over anything, let me know.

Next stop… wiring…

chevyguy_72

cant see any of your pics... photobucket must have changed something in their settings...

duckhead

Oh... my.... god... Your absolutely right. Apparently photobucket is now demanding $400/yr so I can use 3rd party hosting. Last night when I made that post everything looked great. Now... every photo I posted from photobucket is garbage.

Looks like I need to find a new hosting site because $400/yr is insane. And now I think about the daunting task of fixing all of the broken links...... I'm not going to think about it... Gonna go build my truck but if anyone has a great file hosting site I'd appreciate the info. I see people use imgur and flickr...

jakey poo

I was excited to see an update, stupid photobucket

84 yota dude

I use google photos and it seems to work fine