Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

I will have to give that battery cleaning a try. You did get alot of it straightened out. I use Purple Power, dont think I have heard of Mean Green. Might have to see if there is any at the parts store. Cleaning does take alot of time. That is the good thing of your cooking them clean, they are ready when you get to them.

On your fender, you can get away with it not being perfect as there is enough adjustments to make up for the differences of the core support.

Cyberhorn The Dragon

mean green is found at your local walmart terry buck somthing a bottle cheap for the cost great for cleaning greasey oily gunk off leaves the surface nearly clean enough to paint

Cyberhorn The Dragon

Doctor likes my foot he did some cleaning up on it an says it still has a tiny 2mm round hole with nearly no depth so im allowed to do a bit an not to over do (WOOHOO)

today the engine got its washing quite a greasy mess on one side rather clean the other an after washing the clean side shows up to be scaly rusted so it'll get the sand blaster

worked a bit on the broken headbolt tried drilling next to the easy out didnt work broke a drill bit, got a punch with a sharp point an started trying to walk it out that got some of the easyout, out of the bolt but bolt still wouldnt budge so we heated the block a bit then the bolt an easy out good an hot left it to cool it cooked the oils an lube all around the threads im hoping that will help break the rust holding the bolt in place

also finished drivers side motor mount cleaning an priming also power washed the intake halves gah!! the black inside the upper plenum O..O what a mess!

it comes off with the mean green degreaser quite well but i cant get in there around the throttle plate heres what ive cleaned an primed some painted black pieces


gona have to take the throttle body off an do a better job inside it but outside is very clean. turned the jet nozzle on the washer on the frame of the runner where scale rust was collected around the upper A arm mounts an blasted that good an the front ifs mounts as well nice an clean some surface rust still an got to take the scalier to that an prime then paint hit it with undercoat as well

Cyberhorn The Dragon

picture of my dc power source for my cooking tank, power steering pump its bracket idler pulley an pulley already clean an primered (is seen above painted on tailgate) just to show the rust an scale dirt an grime electrolysis can clean up for painting

Cyberhorn The Dragon

well no one can call me anything but determined i had an Epiphany (IpifanY aka brain explosion) i remembered i had a set of diamond dremil bits for working stone an hardened steel an i went to town on the broken head bolt grinding an worrying away at the thing diggin in an after a broken one the remaining chunk of easy out went flying WOOT! the PO had drilled the hole he broken the easy out in crooked an slanted.. no wonder it broke...

then i glared at the stud 'your next!' an after 3 broken drill bits (they were dull) i found a sharp one an got all the way through the stud into the empty area under it then started grinding away the remains now has a () shaped hole through it being careful dont want to get into the threads filled the thing with penetrating oil then moved on to the power steering pump assembly to get it cleaned up!

Cyberhorn The Dragon

now if anyones missing parts for the power steering pump an its brackets bolts an associated bits this is exactly everything to it

please note the rust on the main support bracket (on the left) an the fact it has ONE bolt slightly longer it went to the front of the pump
the idler pulley is not like the one on the AC assembly it has a bushing support in the center seen next to the adjuster bolt and the front bearing support washer its edge is just a bit under the bracket

anyone needs it i can label the components in photoshop



the main bracket and pulley are the only two i cant get in the cooker the bolts went in due to the rust on them will post after shots later :-)

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

Glad to hear your foot is getting better. Sometimes on little mishap can make a big change in life.

Hope that head bolt comes out for you eventually. At last your are being patient and trying to get the stuff to help it free up. Every little bit has to help.

Your parts are cleaning up well. I didnt get to sit up my cooker yesterday like I had planned. It was like going 90 mph and not getting anywhere. Got lot a ccomplished, just went downhill. I am going to get to it this week. Cleaning is a big part of my time and it would be nice to have something like that to be cleaning it self.

On post #85, I tried to see what question you were asking and I must of missed it. I looked again and must not be understanding it.

On your Power Steering Pulley, it was just mentioned on the main page about how expensive the pulley assembly is. It is but the bearing is alot cheaper and easily replace. I will post how I did it and later a video that I found, just incase you ever run into it.

How I did it...........................

Youtube video...http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ra_pfgleiiE

My Power Steering Pulley is a little noisey so thought I would show how to replace the bearing. I used PN# 204-FF.



Then I removed the nut and the pulley. On the backside there is a wire clip that holds the bearing to the pulley. Remove it,
then I used a 3/4 inch socket and drove it out over a vice.

I put a little oil in side the pulley and used the vice and slowly worked it back in most of the way. Once it is flush with
the pulley I used another socket to finish getting it all the way in so as the wire clip would seat.



Here it is all cleaned and painted. The bearing was $22. Toyota wants to sell the whole assembly. I was unable to
find just the pulley. Hope this helps someone.

[IMG]https://www.yotatech.com/members/terrys87-albums-terrys87-picture16075-finished-pulley.jpg[/IMG

Cyberhorn The Dragon

thank you terry! though i didnt ask any question the link to the video an the information are priceless!

i think the power steering idler pulley bearing 'might' be going it might also be due to it being lose as the PO took things lose to do the head gasket i wont know till i get things put back together it is good to know the bearing is replaceable!

Cyberhorn The Dragon

well today has been about the most frustrating day ive had yet,
foot hurts (aches) an i was sitting on a kitchen stool to work on this all day ive worn out 5 diamond grinding bits one stone bit an the mini drum sander wont hold the sanding drums anymore and ive reduced the stud to nearly NOTHING an it still wont let go of the threads in the block! AGH! i can just see threads starting to show on one side so stopped working on that side moved to the other using a bit of wire to feel how much is left in the hole at the bottom tried using a huge extractor wide blade screwdriver we've heated it ive got penetrating oil sitting in there now


anyhow heres what the sacrificial anode looks like after a couple days of cleaning scraped it off an put it back in main power steering bracket is now in the tank, adjuster bolt 1 bearing shield an secondary bracket are all clean an primed

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

I went and reread your post and it said Quote"well no one can call me anything but determined" Quote..I thought it said Tell, not Call..lol, I am going to have to face the music, but I am getting where I am going to have to get glasses. I always had better then normal vision and this past year, it has really gotten bad. I remember the day when things started gettting blurry.

How long will you scarificed blades last? That bolt is giving you a run for your money. So far I have been lucky enough not to break one. I am sure my time is coming.

Cyberhorn The Dragon

thats ok terry ive had glasses since i was 3 we all have to have them eventually my daughter who's 6 was happy to get hers cause shes now like mom an dad

i dont know about how long i do know they are severely rusted now huge divots in the metal the edges all trashed but they were just scrap steel an the results look excellent
definitely better than sanding sandblasting wire wheeling degreasing an such then things can be primed an painted IMO

im likely going to have to take it to a shop an have them finish the work i dont want to ruin the threads :-(

Cyberhorn The Dragon

well today i finished up the power steering assembly just need to seal off the pump fittings an degrease an clean the pump up. put the metal backer plate tween the engine an trans in the tank to cook the rust off it

then sat down on a 5 gal bucket an worked on the drivers inner fender an the front getting the area below the headlight and the head light mounting hole straightened out an finesse the metal into resembling what it did before the bop to the nose

have to actually put a few dips back into the metal that actually belong for strength an pop rivet the inner fender to the core support along the edge where all the spot welds broke
had to use vice grips an long reach welding vice grips to hold it to get it hammered back out an smoothed the seam where the spot welds "were" still have some in the corner but need to make/find a drift punch to smack the last areas of panel seam flat where they belong

bought a tap for the head bolt holes roommate went out after fixing his 93 intrepid (the plastic water pump impeller shattered an left him with no cooling then the harmonic balancer broke a 3 jaw puller it needed a special made one so that got rented then! the timing belt tensioner tightening assembly the adjuster bolt hole stripped out an he had to get a helicoil for it oy what a past 3 days..) he got the top 3 threads of my head bolt issue cleaned out i figure the tap will help more now than anything!

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Wow, getting lots done, Dragon!

Cyberhorn The Dragon

an surprisingly havent spent much
the tap for the head bolts (on its way)
couple cans of primer
3 bottles of mean green degreaser
some wire brushes from harbor freight
washing soda for the electrolysis tank

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

Whats changing the Power Steering seals like? That is going to be first for me. I do have a spare unit, but wondering if it is an easy job. I havent looked into it just yet. Been trying to get the other little things taken care of, but it is coming up quick.

Cyberhorn The Dragon

Terry: well the one i did was a 60's vette likely very close, the biggest pain for me on that was the reticulating ballbearings in a race inside the housing

an image of the toyota setup shows the biggest difference is the toy has a teflon seal that rides in the O'rings in a couple places i had to copy a web page from the wayback machine to get info which is very limited

jason in tn

hey man just wanted you to know Im still following along, great work so far.

Cyberhorn The Dragon

thank you jason

well heres the main power steering bracket after its 2 days in the electrolysis cooker its pitted but no rust left on it anywhere not even the pits which can just bring on rust all over again under the paint


only the pump remains to be cleaned now its going to be tape to seal off the internals an then degreased an sand blasted to prep for primer some people would be 'oh its just a pump likely to fail X number of miles down the road' yes that is possible but till then i can protect it from further issues i know from experience i had a chevy power steering pump fail due to rust


went by local hardware store bought paint an primer, disassembled the upper intake plenum carbon fell out in chunks (egr = evil) that is going to get cleaned up very well painted the power steering brackets letting them dry completely before resembling

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

I got the next few days off coming up and I want to get me a cooker going. Its on the list. The EGR causes one big mess. I just use a pop can and make a thin plate to block the flow. There are several other ways and even removing them but seems like that causes issues. Now I just leave them on and if they ever needed to be on there for an inspection, it is easily removed and never a problem. Your tree huggers may believe in them, but I think in the long run a well tuned truck is more beneficial with it off.

The catalatic converters are old on these. I just took two to the scrap yard and they were really broken up and burnt out. The guy put a measuring rod in both of them and they werent even half full of the material that was supposed to be in there. I took Mistys off as well and what a difference it made. We are supposed to have them on but they never look and we dont have to do the sniff test, mine have been just disappearing.

Cyberhorn The Dragon

yeah this runner its cat is missing as well im gona be enjoying that can of soda i use to block off the egr we dont have any inspections here ..yet boise does but not the high desert where i am located

i brought the upper intake plenum in the house to sand an scrub its outside is now nice an shiny oven cleaner on the inside helped a lot breaking down the baked on carbon i kept the exposure time low so it wouldnt damage the aluminum .
an washed it all down with baking soda an water then soapy wash doing some painting on the top of it an the valve cover letting my foot rest a couple days i dont have any urgent part cleaning

i am thinking about cooking the block since the one side is so rusty an scaled the electrolysis process would strip the exterior an anywhere a line of sight is of rust either that or use the air scaller which room mate used on my frame an passenger side A arm mount cleaned it up very nicely! got to get under the mount with a thin screw driver or awl to finish that rust an dirt removal then do some kind of rust prevention on the cleaned areas