Cyberhorn The Dragon

Terry: does anyone have a rebuild thread on the steering box? ive rebuilt a 62 chevy vette steering box but nothing like this one

an yep a lot straighter but still has a good 2 1/5 inches at the least to get the front body mount an core to be where they belong i popped welds tween the driver side core support an the inner fender pushing with the jack thus why its time to pull going to use some welding vice grips to hold the core an fender metal till the pulling is done

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

I seen a good one on here just dont remember where. I will be diggig it up. Might take a few days, as I will be needing it soon as well. Same thing with the door panels. Some one recently did a good write up on them and having a tough time finding them. I need to start book marking these things. Those would be some good refernces.

Cyberhorn The Dragon

well i found the kit for the seals in the box but they dont have bearings just seals i yanked an pulled on mine turns smooth no clunking so i expect mine is like many its just the seals worn out
search for EDELMANN 8846 Steering Gear Kit

which is the same for all 4x4 steering boxes

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Ahhh, good... Gear box is gonna be good to go then? Was gonna share I was told by a few Guru's to go to the yards and find a low miles 2WD, 86-94 or something like that... Take it's gear box and call it Friday! lol.... They take WAY less abuse than the 4WD ones and I got it for 40$ or so(can't remember off hand, but something like that)... 80K Mile Gear box for 40$ wasn't bad. They sell them with the pitman still attached and lined up so I didn't have to do much but realign the worm shaft stuffs for the steering wheel to be straight...But drove really straight right after install(despite the cocked wheel til I fixed that, as mentioned)...

Just sharing that for others that don't wanna deal with the pitman and rebuild, ya know?

How you doing, Dragon? Breathin fire today? Or flying over the Lily's with a good tude? hahahaha.

Cyberhorn The Dragon

chef: i dont know yet i havent bought the kit but its certainly cheaper than buying a rebuilt at the prices around here
the 90 the lady of the house drives we got one from the junkyard an it works but it was still pricey at 120 used

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

WOW, that IS pricier, man! Sorry... I forget about the 'CALIFORNIA PRICE/AVAILABILITY DIFFERENCE' at times... Forgive:bowsInForgivenessSmiley: hahaha. Seriously... 120????

Cyberhorn The Dragon

used, the rebuilts from the major parts stores went from 280 to a high from napa of 375 with core exchange

well heres what i did today/ tonight stripped the paint sanded with 80/120/220 then polished with wet sanding an 1000 an paint buffing compound


in the box is the houses new kitten far too young to be separated an dumped out in the yard we live with corn&wheat fields on 3 sides he has a minor infection in the eyes an was dehydrated but is already responding to the care now if my 6 yr old would stop acting like its a toy

Cyberhorn The Dragon

ok engine is OUT of the runner oh the tails to tell to get that done sheesh..... but its out an on a stand the green chocolate milk EWWWW :-P blech engine left to drain tonight

Cyberhorn The Dragon

ok today im cooking metal brackets , motor mounts radiator bypass, ect in my electrolysis tanks it works blowing rust an other stuff off

used the chain lift hooked to the bucket of the dozer an pulled the body mount where it belongs an then the body out where it belongs which then bent the inner fender top which we had previously fixed oh well lol it now looks like the fender corner is the right height an is out aligned with the passengers side (i may have just pulled it a tiny bit too far...) some other things need adjusting an fixing

the body mount broke along the backside from its being bent so will have to weld a gusset on to make it strong as original

some of my electrolysis cleaning

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

We are at about the same stage. I have just started cleaning some parts and am getting ready to pull the motor out of my truck. It doesnt have a head on it, just the lower end. I will need to check out that electric cleaning.

Sounds like you are getting your aligning a little closer.

Cyberhorn The Dragon

thank you terry! oh it looks right on target but.. now with the isuzu trooper down with a dead clutch, the dodge tacoma needs a water pump kris (roommate) his dodge intrepid decided to barf its water pump as well today he's gona be busy on the other things an wont get to welding that gusset for a good bit but i can put the body mount back in an continue working the inner fender till he can do the welding i might even give it a try its just a gusset

the electrolysis is water, washing soda (arm n hammer) a chunk or chunks of sacrificial steel or iron and any dc voltage source

in my case im using a battery charger and an old PC computer power supply using the 12v leg used for fans hard drives ect (yellow wire on the molex plug) in one tank the 'anode' sacrifice (+) is two old lawn mower blades bent an cracked junk steel wired via jumper ive got a smaller one for small brackets an bolts
this is so your getting voltage on both sides of the item being 'cooked' this picture is the one with dual mower blades cooking the radiator pipe loop an the far end was the hood latch (the white is bubbles showing the process is working)


i thought the pipe was a loss, flaky crusty rust crumbling off i was sure i was going to be looking for a new one nope the process cleaned off all the rust leaving iron powder an a bit of magnetite on the surface
which i wiped off with a paper towel an some 409 then shot it with some etching primer as anything you put through the process will try to 'flash rust' so be ready soon as its dried primer it

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Nice work, Cyberhorn! And very cool trick, thanks for sharing that! I'd have to find another way, as I have no sacrificial computer laying around, hhahaha... But still, WOW!

How you gonna "UN-pull the Chassis"?? Just curious... be sure to share all those details, k?

Cyberhorn The Dragon

well chef if you look at some of the plug in chargers for say a old cell phone, dead printer look at the case it'll say 110/120 ac input 12-9-4.5 VDC output these can all work for a cleaner tank important thing is its DC current and the part to be cleaned is the (-) an the sacrificial item is (+) DO NOT use stainless steel it makes a toxic sludge that is epa regulated normal steel or iron is fine an old brake rotor or drum is a good choice

the over pull on the front core support is 1/2 an inch when i bolt it back to the body mount it will pull it back into place :-)

OH if your degreasing your engine, engine bay or whatever get 'mean green' from wally world it strips grease an oils off paint or metal makes aluminum gleam its cheap an very powerful it worked better than the gunk spray stuff an the surface is oil residue free i will take pictures of the shiny aluminum of my trany's belhousing an the firewall paint of my runner and also the front end an broken body mount also my cleaned primered parts

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

GREAT TIP on the Mean Green.. heard that before and forgot!

In the future(I used to say 'NEAR future'... but meh, ...things keep popping up and holding me back on mod plans/repairs I've been putting off).... Soon enough, i'll be pulling the trans. I have ways to clean it, but that might help a lot. If you read through my build thread at points.. You'll see I'm VERY into getting things back to 'orig. condition' or even showroom clean... I just enjoy working on a clean engine! Did so all day today off and on and NOT A SPOT of grease on me!

But wow, that trans/t-case? BIG TIME OLD GUNG! lol.

Thanks a lot... I have lots of chargers.... I misinterpreted what you said originally.

Maybe do a thread with FULL ON instructions and pics and maybe video? PEOPLE WOULD USE IT! I'm sure of it!

Cyberhorn The Dragon

thank ya Chef: i like a clean engine for that and! a messy one tend to burn easier too a friends fiero went up in flames from the oh ill fix those little leaks that never got fixed
an with a clean engine bay if you develop a leak its more likely to be found early

me make a thread on electrolysis cleaning? id have to think about it i dont have any way to do video pictures i could do though

lol we have so many various chargers an old computers i yanked a IBM older power supply which cant be used for other computers they rigged it so you had to buy their parts or Poof cooked motherboard an components i used it for testing 12v items (fans ect)

Cyberhorn The Dragon

hows that for front end pulling? taken from just behind the bull dozers bucket



the pulling got the folds (framed by the power steering line) opened enough i was able to pound them out the spot is still dirty as it was closed an the meangreen an the power washer couldnt get to the dirt

Cyberhorn The Dragon

you can just see the break in the body mount its still a bit bent (crooked) but its straight with the frame now


that mean green does some serious cleaning with barely any scrubbing

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Hey, looking GOOD! Is the front beam wavey? Or is that my eyes? I'd throw a long straight edge across it on the front beam, over the radiator.... see if it is. I WOULD HATE for you to have all kinds of drama getting the radiator and grill and front clip in general to bolt up, ...then have to tear down again, etc. But all in all, FREAKING GREAT!

Hey, ..... I hear ya on the video, man! I just have a crappy point and shoot..... Nikon Coolpix.... takes good pics though! lol.... Decent video too, long as no wind is around. lol.

Don't worry about it, wasn't meaning to pressure you..... I just think lots of guys would LOVE to do that... Like me. But I'm more of a visual 'action mod' LEARNER! LOL.... IOWords... I learn best watching someone. I can do it fine by written instructions and pics too boot, sure.... I just learn faster watching it happen, ya know? THATS' WHY I LOVE YOUTUBE 'DIY' AUTO VIDEOS! hahaha.

Keep up the greattttttttt work!

Cyberhorn The Dragon

chef: it is a bit wavy but i can live with it the radiator fit the core support with it all bent the fender, bumper, an headlights should all fit right now
i tried to put the old fender on just to see, an its so badly bent an warped compared to the fixing done it wont line up on but 1 bolt hole

Cyberhorn The Dragon

today i did my first sand blasting on parts didnt want to dunk the bearings in the tensioner pulley for the AC compressor bracket which was taking a dip

put a couple washers over either side an a bolt in the middle to keep them snug an able to protect the bearing from the dust an grit an went to blasting the pulley. got it primered an painted also sand blasted the power steering reserve can as well it was rusting all over in spots it looks new, no decals the old ones were ruined anyhow

cooked the power steering pump pulley then washed it. had to do just a bit of wire brush work an then it got primer an then left to dry well got the AC compressor bracket out of its boil (2 days to get the entire thing big an heavy bugger). its out clean an left to dry it'll flash rust but thats ok cleans up quickly

had to clean off my sacrificial anodes tonight, the lawn mower blades had built up over half an inch of rust an crud an the effectiveness had gone way down so took um out an scraped the crunchy rusty yuck off on a track of the dozer an a bang off the blade went back in the tank an voom bubbles again LOL

in the tank tonight for over night cooking is the rusty as heck fender bracket (terry got a picture of a clean new one for me), a strut off the engine i think supported the lower intake (bolts to the passenger motor mount) was quite rusty in places and the adjuster bolt an cover assembly for the AC bracket tensioner pulley

i think ill be painting the pulley nut/cover bit yellow block will be yellow and the sides an center stripe of the valve cover as well, gotta get the first can of yellow an more etching primer