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Hello all intelligent persons! I say that because if you read this, you more than likely drive a Toyota, smart.
Still feel kind of new to this site. I joined earlier in the year when I finally got to working on the '86 pickup that is in my driveway. Being not so good at "forum-ing" I started a thread to see whether I wanted to keep the 22re or try to ramp up and transform it to the rte. That turned into what I now know as a build up thread. It gets less help than I need as I think I started here all wrong.
SO!!!! I now pronounce this my official build up thread for my 1986 blue Toyota pickup....with a motor that doesn't run yet.
Here's the quick version of what has happened so far. Got the truck from a good friend who loved her but didn't have the time or money to take care of her. FREE TOYOTA!!! It was like Christmas. I realized doing a turbo was far from necessary and beyond my skill. So I just started tearing things apart to find out why she didn't have compression. (Never worked on a motor before) I found pitting in each combustion chamber on the exhaust side. I thought that's definitely it. Soon bought a new head with O/S valves from ENGNBLDR. Put it together and just cranked. Sad day.
I then did the right thing. Ran a compression test. Cylinders 1 & 2 were very low 10 & 30 ish psi. Pulled the motor, took her ALL apart and saw nasty things. (Picture is in my first thread mentioned earlier) #2 piston has ground itself against the cylinder wall near the top. So the block and crank are at the machine shop currently. Getting the block bored out and the crank checked out and ground if needed.
Last edited by deesmckee_ak; 11-29-2014 at 11:42 AM.
Looking forward to seeing pictures of your truck. These motors are easy to work on and don't require a whole lot of tools. I have seen some newbies that had no mechanical experience work on these for the first time and get it going. You will see people say you need the Factory Service Manual, I used a Haynes Manual to learn on these trucks. Stay away from Chilton Manuals in my opinion.
With the information on here, a Haynes Manual, the people on here and a little determination, you will get it. Get involved in other peoples build and they will be a great source of information for you as well.
On my 88 Runner build below, I have tried to post links or information on different things on these trucks to try and help new people that hopefully makes it a little easier then reading a manual. The information is located on the first page of that build and my other builds as well. Welcome to Yotatech and looking forward to your build.
Actually I've already checked out your build. I'll be referencing it as I go along. I can't wait till i get the ole girl fired up. It's been too long since i've driven a Toyota.
I'm have to say I agree more and more as far as staying away from Chilton. I tried to use it to pull the motor while also referencing Yotatech and some videos on youtube. Chilton wants you to do a lot more than what needs to be done so I found out. Pulling the rear driveline, the shifter, and so on. Much simpler than they put it.
I'll be back home in a little over 2 weeks, I'll get some pictures up once I dig it out of the new snow.
I agree with Terry 100%, keep doing and learning as you go, I have learned a lot from all his posts,
Originally Posted by Terrys87
Looking forward to seeing pictures of your truck. These motors are easy to work on and don't require a whole lot of tools. I have seen some newbies that had no mechanical experience work on these for the first time and get it going. You will see people say you need the Factory Service Manual, I used a Haynes Manual to learn on these trucks. Stay away from Chilton Manuals in my opinion.
With the information on here, a Haynes Manual, the people on here and a little determination, you will get it. Get involved in other peoples build and they will be a great source of information for you as well.
On my 88 Runner build below, I have tried to post links or information on different things on these trucks to try and help new people that hopefully makes it a little easier then reading a manual. The information is located on the first page of that build and my other builds as well. Welcome to Yotatech and looking forward to your build.
I will definitely be subscrubing to his build for lots of referencing once the reassembly starts. Which is hopefully soon. The determining factor as usual is money.
$400 something for the machine work (whenever I hear back)
$300 for the master rebuild kit from engnbldr
$350 SO FAR for parts from 22reperformance (before shipping to AK) *ugh*
$100 or so from Rockauto
?$?$?$ for who knows what else will come up.
All worth it though!! Just need to be patient.
A few questions for my downtime. I want this baby to be pretty when she's dressed again. So...i do not have a pressure washer or parts washer or anything awesome like that. My air intake is filthy. Layered with ?carbon? buildup. I've already used nearly a whole can of throttle body cleaner to just soak it and the reach in ad far as i can with rags. Which is not far. Any tricks to this or tools i'm not thinking of to get all the way in?
Also, I would like to paint some parts. I'm not expecting a professional look, just better than old parts look. Is it as simple as covering/removing all the sensitive parts and "rattle canning" it?
Lastly, where can you find the crush washers for the fuel line connections? All i found was the CSI washer on LCE.
Got the rebuild kit!!!! Took the rods to the shop to get the new pin bushings put in. In the meantime I checked the compression ring gaps. Here's what I got.
Compression Ring #1-
Cylinder 1-4: .010"
FSM specs I read: .0098"- .0185"
Compression Ring #2
Cylinder 1 & 3: .013"
Cylinder 2 & 4: .012"
FSM specs I read: .0236"- .0323"
Compression #1 I'm happy with. #2 however is way tighter than the FSM says. What's the preferred method for taking a little off the ring end to get the gap into spec? Fine file? Sandpaper?
Finally ordered the rest of the parts! Various hardware kits, hard to find hoses, oil pressure sending unit and some others. 11 days yet till I get to go home and start actually putting the motor back together though. Excited after the long wait to make some real progress!! I'll be smiling ear to ear when I get to hear some fuel burning at last.
That's why I always try to order stuff while I'm still at work, a week or two before I go home. Usually they get there by the time I get home and it's like Christmas presents to myself.
Got home and started on it!! Of course though, there is something that I'm unsure about. I got the main bearings, pistons, rods, and rod bearings all together on the block today. The crankshaft turns smooth but not easily enough to do it by hand when gripping it at the front (even w/o the rods connected). Used assembly lube on all the bearings and journal surfaces. I am able to turn it by hand by pushing on the counterweights, it seems like more effort than I have heard is needed though. Also, and probably related to that, I have no gap at the thrust washers when I checked with the smallest feeler gauge I have (.0015 in.) Crank went in smooth Thrust washer grooves are supposed to be facing away from the bearing right? Maybe it's not a big deal but I just want to be sure and not have to take this motor all the way apart again. At least not for a long while.
Talked to the guys at 22re performance. Tried the trick of setting the thrust with a hammer at the backside of the crank. It did free up the crankshaft enough to turn it by hand but still had no clearance at the thrust washer.
The old thrust washers were in good shape so I cleaned them up and used them instead. Turns easy by hand and got .002" clearance.
Got it in the engine bay! So happy that I'm this far. Got the oil system primed, went to turn the key aaaand....no dice. Squirted fuel out of the #1 injector. Shoot me. It turns out I rolled the O ring at the rail during install. This happened the day before I had to leave for work of course. I got the intake off pretty quickly but didn't have a new gasket on hand and just qplain ran out of time, so I'm left for another two weeks before I can turn a wrench on it again and go for attempt #2.
She does look a hell of a lot better though. Still need a new decal for the valve cover. I'll get a good picture of it in the engine bay when I get home.
Getting there...
Only had two whoops* (besides the injector o ring) during the build process, which is less than I expected to have. First one I found...got the motor on the transmission and realized I forgot the dust cover. Simple fix at least.
Second one I felt kind of stupid for. Went to install some of the pulleys after the crank pulley was on. They didn't line up because the crank pulley wasn't in all the way. Turns out that I installed the sleeve that goes over the nose of the crankshaft backwards...dumb* It was at least a quick fix.
Yes they do. However that's far better than finding a forgotten ring or gasket on the bench.
Ordered the 22re decal for the valve cover and thinking about some blue vacuum lines. One reason being, they have probably never been replaced and another reason being, I think it will look cool.
I fixed the fuel leak. Was much more careful with installing the injectors this time. All back together and no luck. Frustrated. Here is what has been checked so far.
- All 4 grounds in place.
- Tested TPS. Failed, the spring was shot and was stuck in place. Replaced it, still no start.
- Spark plugs have spark and gap is good.
- Reset the distributor timing just because I was running out of ideas.
- Tried starter fluid, no help.
- Compression is good on all cylinders. 155-160psi.
- Beat head against hood....no start.
I'm sure there's fuel pressure because of the leak I had the first go around. I don't know what else to look at. I have an engine light when the key is on but no tool to read it. The starter sounds plenty strong.
The only sign of life I have heard so far is every couple seconds, inconsistently, while turning it over, it sounds like it gets one fire. I don't know what to make of it. I'm sure the timing is on enough to fire up. I really hope someone else had this problem amd figured it out because I'm about ready to ask an expensive professional.
If it wont start with starting fluid, you have something wrong. I could get my 85 to start with starting fluid and I forgot to hook up the computer. It will only run long enough to burn off the starting fluid.
You just need a paper clip and jumper T1 and E1 to get the codes. It will be the Check Engine Light flashing some codes. All hoses hooked up, electrical connections made, timing is set correct, AFM hooked up?
I jumped the harness for reading the codes, mine doesn't have the fuse box with the E1 and T1 fuses. I get one flash every 5 seconds which would mean no code? That's how I read it off of 4crawlers page at least.
Differences today. I turned it over and got a little puff of smoke from somewhere on the engine. I can't tell exactly where from when I'm in the cab. It did give me a LITTLE more effort one time where it felt like it tried to start.
Tested the AFM and it's good. Everything is hooked up as far as vacuum lines and harnesses. With the exception of one harness that I never found a home for.
Checked checked again on the timing. It's good. I've found a few other guys with the same same problem that I'm still reading about.
The half that is plugged in goes to the transmission.
Got home on Sunday, one of the first things I did was tend to the truck to see if I could get her fired up. Pulled the distributor, rotated the motor once, reinstalled the distributor, started up like a champ! Of course it was something simple. Turns out engines won't start when they try firing on the exhaust stroke.....
Got through almost all of the start up procedure (22re performance) almost all went well except for my radiator petcock drain is a little leaky. $4 part.
Bigger issue though, once I get the motor revved up to 2000 rpm or higher, it pulses. It'l drop to idle (700-900rpm) and then shoot back up to wherever I had it before (2000 or higher). Got the timing set with the light and tested the TPS and AFM. I'm going to test the TPS again just because I'm second guessing myself at this point. This shouldn't be anything besides a timing issue right? I don't see where else a symptom like that would come from.
Got the hood scrubbed down and put back on. LOTS of old, caked on oil from days past. Going to have to find a fix for the last "fix" last owner did. Passenger side hinge was tack welded where the upper bolt stripped out. Opens and closes, just not very evenly.
11-29-2014, 11:17 AM
