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Thanks Ray and magnet. That thing did not want to come out and I'd hate to break something.
Ok, so Ray texted me a picture of his relay and showed some little black tabs on the side. I tried those, but it still would not budge. As I was prying and pulling on it, I noticed a white tab starting to push out a little on the bottom, so I got my screwdriver in there and sure enough there is a white locking tab on the bottom and top of the relay. They are recessed in there and hard to see, especially since the relay body is much bigger than the terminal spot in the fuse panel. Thank you Ray for your picture and your advice. I have the relay out, and I tested it...I believe it is bad. You hook a bulb up across terminals 1 and 2, then you connect +12V to terminal 3, ground to terminal 2 and the bulb should flash. For me it didn't even come on. I tested the bulb by applying +12 directly to bulb and it lights, so I'm pretty sure the relay is bad. As far as I know it is original, so 29 years is not too bad. This kindof gives me an excuse to get an electronic flasher so it will be LED compatible.
Here is a shot of the white locking tabs for anyone wondering how to pull the turn signal relay...there are tabs on both top and bottom.
In looking for a new electronic flasher, there's kind of a lot of different info on which one is compatible (EF35, EP32, CF13GL-02). I went with the EP32 from RockAuto, mostly because the picture looked a lot like the OEM relay I removed. The others did not quite looks right in terminal spacing.
It came in the mail today and I can tell you 100% it is a direct replacement, fits right in and my turn signals and hazards are now working!
Similar to my driver's side, I've had this hole in my passenger side inner fender. I'm gearing up for a trip to North Carolina at the end of June, so I want to knock out a few things before I go up there.
So I cleaned it up, wire wheeled it to knock the loose rust off, and then I applied some fiberglass with the long hair.
While that's drying, I started knocking out some other projects. For the longest time, I had my CB antenna cable running through the passenger floor drain hole. When I put in the vinyl flooring and insulation, I couldn't have that, so today I re-routed it. I ran it up over some of the evaporator box mounting points kindof following the radio antenna, but then I ran it down into the passenger kick panel and drilled a hole through the inner fender and sealed it with a grommet.
Here's the inside shot:
And the outside shot:
From here, I ran it up to the FM radio antenna mount and then I zip tied it to the factory wiring harness that runs along the inner fender up to the front of the truck. I didn't terminate it yet at the CB antenna, so that will be coming soon.
I have one of those Cobra 75 handheld CBs. The cable on it has been falling apart for the last few years, and in doing some reading it is apparently common. I called Cobra and they sold me a new cable for $21 shipped.
So I had to open it up to un-solder the old cable and solder in the new. Wasn't too bad.
Old wires, see the rubber is missing from the cable on the right:
And yep, CB still works!
So after this fiberglass dries, I'll probably coat it with either some paint or that rubber undercoating, paint inside as well. Then I have to repair the FM radio antenna shaft, it's broken of course. I know Terry has a fix that I think involves a threaded rod. Once those are done, I'll put the fender back on.
In North Carolina, I plan to do some offroading, so I wanted to get the CB back in. I don't think I'm going to get to the AC before this trip, which sucks.
... Then I have to repair the FM radio antenna shaft, it's broken of course. ...
Hi Cory, by "shaft" you mean the rod that sticks up above the fender, or the tubular looking part under the fender? If under the fender, mine's available for adoption because I replaced my antenna with hidden one.
Hi Cory, by "shaft" you mean the rod that sticks up above the fender, or the tubular looking part under the fender? If under the fender, mine's available for adoption because I replaced my antenna with hidden one.
Ray - the tubular part under the fender, and very kind of you. Terry has mentioned good luck using a 14mm bolt with the head cut off and threading into both pieces of the broken antenna rod. Let me give the bolt method a shot first. Eventually I think I'd like to do the same as you and remove this antenna altogether.
Tony - We are headed to Beech Mountain, NC. I msg'd you in your salvaged parts thread.
So Terry has had good luck repairing the FM radio antenna by threading a bolt into the broken PVC piece and into the fender mounted piece. Last night I went looking thru all my old bolts to find something that would work...and what I found was perfect, an old exhaust stud. The stud was an M10-1.25, so I grabbed a tap and cut some threads into the PVC with it, and then ran the tap up into the fender mounted piece and the stud just threaded right in perfectly. Great fix Terry, thanks!
A while back I ordered a new OEM battery hold down bracket because my old one was crusty and crumbling. Finally put on the new one, plus I wire wheeled the bolt & nut then soaked them in Evapo-Rust...they look shiny and new.
I want to find a way to hold down these door edge trim pieces along the bottom of the door opening. Mine are missing most of the little plastic tabs...anyone have a good solution?
...I want to find a way to hold down these door edge trim pieces along the bottom of the door opening. Mine are missing most of the little plastic tabs...anyone have a good solution?
Hi Cory,
I used nylon expansion nuts on mine, Just find ones that fit in those slots on the rocker panel and fit the screws that are already there. Try Clipsandfasteners.com
The screws on the threshold suck. They rust. Since I removed the "chrome" wheel-well trim on mine, I used the stainless screws on that on my door threshold.
Last edited by RAD4Runner; 05-31-2017 at 10:55 PM.
Thanks Ray - just scanned that site real quick and I saw a few potential candidates. I'll need to measure the holes to make sure I find one that fits, and yeah definitely my screws are all rusty and only a few of them are even the correct ones, so some replacements are probably in order. Appreciate the tip.
ill be watching this. the door sill on my runner is a bit loose too, also has 4 different screws holding it in thanks to the PO.
Measured those holes in the rocker panel, they are 10mm by 6mm, so I'll look on that website for something to fit.
With this impending trip to NC coming up, always gets my butt in gear to do a few things. I changed the oil, checked all the fluids, and lubed every grease fitting on the whole truck. I found my driver's side inner tie rod boot is ripped badly, so I ordered a new tie rod from Rock Auto along with some wiper blades.
And of course, I have to get this center console finished...so I drilled the hole for the lock and the USB ports and painted everything black.
Here it is all assembled, the power wires for the USB charger are hanging out.
And finally installed in the truck. The power wires are run up under the shifter boot fabric and up to dash. I haven't hooked it up for power yet, but I think I'll tie it in to the Add a fuse that I put in for the CB. I showed it to my wife and she said, "Your truck is really coming along." and I think she's right, finally the interior is not bare metal any more, the seats are covered, the door panels are decent without giant holes....maybe a decent stereo and working AC and she'll be asking to borrow this thing!
The console looks great, I like how you have the mount for the CB mike close and handy! How do you like the combination lock?... I was looking at those awhile back when looking for a lock for mine.
05-08-2017, 11:28 AM
because I replaced my antenna with hidden one.
