coryc85

Terry - thanks for the encouragement. Just checked out your '83 build again, I used to have an '83, kindof makes me miss it.

Anyway, I'm putting together my not so short list of things to do here:

1. Install bj spacers and rear spring leaves, adjust LSPV bracket.

2. Install IFS frame brace that has been sitting for a year.

3. New dash speakers.

4. Fix the water leak on driver & passenger side. This might be body work since I noticed a rust hole in the inner fender above the driver tire.

5. Replace rubber window gaskset on driver side, the one in the window track, it's torn in the upper rear corner.

6. New CVs

7. Install some peel & seal to make it quieter.

8. New battery cables and terminals and new grounds.

9. Put LED lights from Superbright into dome, deck, and backup lights.

10. Upgraded headlight wiring harness.

11. Fix AC, but not so important now that fall is here.

12. I'd like to have my injectors cleaned at WitchHunter.

13. Brake upgrades: V6 front calipers, 1" bore master cylinder, extended brake lines.

blakefogt

how do you like the roundeye headlights?

coryc85

Blake - I'm very happy with them, definitely brighter than my originals, I think they were like $109 shipped, so as far as upgraded lighting they are a good choice. You can buy empty housings on ebay and then find some HID bulbs, but seemed like the quality of a lot of the housings was questionable. The roundeyes are top notch. You have reminded me of some electrical upgrades to add to my list, one of them being an upgraded headlight wiring harness.

coryc85

Little bit of work crossed off my list.

I've had an optima red top for a while in the truck and it has top and side posts. Been wanting to upgrade all my wiring, so I started on it. First step was I bought 2 top post epoxy coated marine terminals at AutoZone. Also purchased a 2 gauge 35" side post battery cable.

The side post cable, I used to go from the Optima positive to the starter. The original was either 4 or 6 gauge (actually I think it was 4) so this 2 gauge is pretty good size. I then used the old battery positive starter cable as the new battery negative to engine block ground. Again, the old was was smaller, so I'm gonna say it was 6 gauge, now it is a 4 gauge. Next I used an 8-gauge wire to go from battery negative to the inner fender.

I left it like that for a few days while I read about the "Big 3" upgrades. So that left me with the battery to fuse box and fuse box to alternator wires, plus the other 2 engine grounds. I decided to just run a new wire in parallel with the existing fusible link for the positive to fuse box. I used 8 gauge wire.

Here is a shot of it right now:



Those huge cables are the winch power leads. Still need to upgrade the fuse box to alternator and I'd like to do those other 2 engine grounds as well. Just need to find some 2 or 4 gauge wire for the alternator.

What I can say for sure is that the truck cranks better than ever.

Outsane

Good solid work in this build

coryc85

Thanks Outsane. Been following your '84 for a while now. Your son is just a bit older than mine, so I know just how you feel making the truck safer. By the way, it's really a pain in the butt to put my son (with carseat) into the backseat. What I've done a couple of times is slide the passenger seat all the way forward. Sit the car seat in the floor now that the seat is forward. Put my son into the seat and strap him in. Then I lift his seat up and finagle the car seat into it's base without dropping him or killing my back. I usually make sure the sliding window in the back is open too so I can reach thru there and get a different grip if I need to. My son is right at 19lbs now, plus the car seat is heavy, so it really makes this not very easy. It's worth it though because he loves riding in there with the wind blowing in his face from that open window.

Outsane

yeah its a little bit a pain getting him in and out..

I usually strap him in then just throw him in the back... getting him out is more of a pain when I leave the car seat in.

Unless I take him for a hike then I pull him out from the tailgate side

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

Just checking in. I been busier then I would of liked. The kiddos wont stay that small for long.

coryc85

Took my cold start timer out last night, cleaned it with a Scotchbrite pad and checked it with my meter:



I put the whole container in the freezer for a couple of hours, so that water is frozen in the picture.

So I'm getting 41 Ohms (and that's definitely below 50 F). I also measured it at ambient temp, which was near 80 yesterday and I read 81 Ohms. Definitely seems like it's fine according to the FSM.

According to this link, the STJ to ground at cold (below 86 deg) is the most important characteristic, otherwise the cold start injector won't turn on. That could be why cleaning the connector contacts helps. http://home.earthlink.net/~twopapa/toyefi.htm#timer

I guess next up for me is to put it back in and check STJ to ground.

Update: I reinstalled the freshly cleaned cold start timer, cleaned the contacts with electrical cleaner and measured the STJ to GND resistance. It measured 160 Ohms, and the STA to GND measured 80 Ohms. That link I posted above said the STJ to ground should be nearly zero when cold and about 100 Ohms above 104deg. But honestly I don't think that's quite correct. According to the 1988 FSM, below 50 deg would be considered cold and then STJ to GND would be pretty much 0 Ohms. I guess the switch opens above 77 degrees, putting both resistors in series between STA and STJ giving me the 160 Ohms. I'm going to drive the truck and see if there is any difference in its starting.

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for putting the link of which connections were STA and STJ. I tried looking in my manual and didnt have any luck. One picture makes all of the difference.

I even tried to search the internet looking for the answers, I just have a tough time finding things on the net while others seem to get to things like that quick.

Hoping just a good cleaning worked for you. How is the truck running now?

coryc85

Terry - well I don't think the truck starts quite perfectly yet. It still seems to be having that semi-warm problem.

It starts fine when totally "cold", although it's never actually cold here, so I don't think the cold start timer is ever in the cold range. But if the truck has been sitting several hours, it starts up fine. If it's a hot start, like if I run into a store for a few minutes, even up to about 30 minutes or so, starts fine. It's only when it sits for about an hour. It does not start on the first crank, so I have to hit the gas to open the throttle. I don't think it is lack of fuel because when it does start, it blows a little black smoke like it was flooded and I can smell gas. I'm wondering if that Idle Air Control Valve is not working right and maybe is closing more when "warm" and cutting off the air. That's really the only thing I haven't messed with. I guess I'm waiting for you Terry to do the write up so I can follow your directions

I had the whole intake and throttle body from the newer 22re with the integrated IACV, but I sold the TB. I should have swapped mine over to that style, I think these older style IACVs are problematic. Actually, for the less than the cost of a new IACV, I'm pretty sure I buy another TB and do the swap. Guess I'll have to look into it some more, see if the IACV is actually a problem.

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

Hello cory.. I have been thinking about your hard start issue. In the carburator days and am sure it still applies, it was rich fuel with black smoke. I was wondering how good your tune up is. I would at least check plugs.

I might would try doing the Seafoam treatment. On this part I am just thinking out loud so dont know how much help it might be, but am wondering if your AFM is closing all the way.

What I am thinking is since the AFM basically tells the fuel pump to kick on when it is open, that maybe it is pumping fuel when you have the motor off but not necessay with the key in the off positon soon enough.

Maybe try going from off to start and start to off with the key at a quicker speed. See if the does anything for you.

May not be much help at all, but was trying to come up with some cheap or no cost fixes. Might try right after shutting it off and pulling the breather hose off and see if the flap is all the way closed or gently pulling the AFM top off and seeing that way.

coryc85

Terry - thanks for thinking about my problem, I really appreciate it. Merry Christmas, by the way.

My tune-up should be good, I put new OEM denso plugs and OEM cap & rotor back in Jan. Also, I did a SeaFoam treatment in September, plus I changed the fuel filter at that time.

As for the AFM, you could be on to something. I had a little trouble back in March where it stuck open and gave me all sorts of idle problems. I will check that, maybe give it another cleaning. I wonder if I can lube the pivot point inside there??

I still do want to mess with the IACV just because I never have touched it and I wonder if it even works. There is a test in the FSM for it I remember it involves pinching the air tube and seeing if the idle changes.

Thanks for the suggestions Terry!

Zelephant

Just read through your whole thread; nice, no-nonsense build! I'm interested to see what you come up with for your hard-start problem. I have the same issue, but I just attribute it to the fact that I've owned my truck for over three years and not done a tune-up even once. I'm trying to get to it before next semester. Right now, the easy fix is to turn the key to "on", tap the gas, then turn the key. Fires right up that way!

coryc85

Thanks, I'm slowwwwwwly getting this truck where I want it. I'm out of town for Xmas, and but I'd like to get this figured out when I get back. Terry had a good thought on the afm, I want to also test the iacv. Sounds like your problem is similar, but does it matter if it's hot or cold start? What's the temperature where you live?

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

I am just throwing another cheap test out there. Dont know if it will help. I have worked on several gas tanks and the return lines have had alot of build up causing a slower flow. Was wondering if the higher pressure could cause more fuel to shoot thru the injectors.

On the back of the fuel rail, near the EGR would be a good place to pull the line and see what kind of resistance is in the whole line itself. My 88s fuel return barely had any flow.
It was full of rust. I had to pull the fuel pump bracket and keep flushing the return line with PB Blaster, high pressure air, and a wire.

Zelephant

It's exactly like yours, starts fine first crank of the day, and if I park it and try to start it again within, say, half an hour, it fires immediately. If I give it a few hours though, it usually takes a tap on the gas to bring it to life. And the temp around here is pretty cold, between 30 and 45 degrees mostly, and dropping.

coryc85

Got a couple of Christmas presents worth posting on here:



I just got home from a week in KY, fired up the 4Runner and started up instantly! Love it. Gonna get on it today and see if I can figure out that weird warm start prob.

coryc85

Well, took the AFM off, cleaned the surfaces where the flapper moves with a toothbrush and some carb cleaner. There was a bit of dirt in there, looked a little bit like fine mud, but not a lot. Flapper seems to move freely. I don't think it made a difference in the start issue.

Today I unhooked the VSV for the fuel pressure regulator and just ran the vac line right to the pressure regulator, bypassing the VSV. I did a little reading on it and according to Roger Brown, that VSV is there to shut off vacuum to the FPR during starting to prevent a vapor lock problem. I have to do some more starts to see if this made a difference. I guess I should really install a fuel pressure gauge to see what kind of pressure I'm getting.

john4wd

OO OH AH nice Christmas gifts :} Sweet :} Wish I got those :{