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83 build for D/D + ultimate trail rig

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Old 02-17-2014, 05:07 PM
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Originally Posted by CamTom12
11.2 should be fine on high-octane... The more important number is DCR. What's your cam put your DCR at? If I remember right, 9.5:1 is as high as you can go on pump gas.
Thank you I wasn't thinking when I ordered some of these parts I'll break out the degree wheel and figure out what I can do maybe I can play with the timing or just change cam this is LCE's little pro torker
But I think I'm over my optimal economy by far so it really doesn't matter what I do
This project started as a head gasket job but I have this sickness
I just can't leave good alone

Thanks again
Old 02-18-2014, 05:05 PM
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lookin good ...
I wouldn't worry to much about the FRP comments , most people don't have first hand experience and still think fiberglass is like the 1960's products produced .. I'm a manufacture and have taken sledge hammers to our products , where a steel panel would not even stand a chance , the FRP stood up .. I have vids on our site . cant speak for all manufactures though !!


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Old 02-18-2014, 07:57 PM
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Originally Posted by slacker
lookin good ... I wouldn't worry to much about the FRP comments , most people don't have first hand experience and still think fiberglass is like the 1960's products produced .. I'm a manufacture and have taken sledge hammers to our products , where a steel panel would not even stand a chance , the FRP stood up .. I have vids on our site . cant speak for all manufactures though !! .
yea I wanted to contact you guys about your bed floors I'm not hauling scrap just camp gear tools you know the deal it will have to be raised about 4" to clear new shock tower that are in the plan like I said in a previous post I have a full 4runner cage from 4x so plenty of mount points what could you do I could use the pointers
Old 02-21-2014, 02:28 PM
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Ok so I did all I can do so I found a donor 22r

Solid grease and almost molasses black oil so much carbon caked you can't see the cam

Plus side is runs great
And as I am just using it for parts the head is perfect I've already taken it all down the internals are all great weird but also the bearings and rings and bore are perfect
This guy bought it brand new in 1983 just the motor for a saw mill and said it ran at 3700 for 10 hrs a day 6days a week for 12 years and all he did was add oil after a couple years

So now it's time for the die grinders (air turned down quite a bit ) and burs and sand and polish
Old 02-22-2014, 08:03 AM
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3700rpms, for 10 hours, 6 days a week, for 12 years with no oil change? Man better check your clearances cause that motor must be wooooorrrnnnn! Thats around 1 385 280 000 revolutions....on the same oil...damn!
Old 02-22-2014, 08:55 AM
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I know right that's what I'm saying but not seeing there was a berry small lip when pulling the pistons but I've seen worse and another 92.5 block might be nice to keep around
I figured on every bit of the motor to be junk and all I wanted was the bare head casting

Maybe the steady rpm or he was pulling my leg a little but as of right now before the machine shop it looks to be an outstanding engine better than mine which only had 78,000 hard miles
Old 02-24-2014, 09:47 PM
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Originally Posted by 83 trail rig
So I found a kinda special toyota a 78 4x4 that's rite the older body style it's all there
Did you acquire it? That would be a cool project!
Old 02-25-2014, 04:09 AM
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Originally Posted by rustEDyota83
Did you acquire it? That would be a cool project!
No it's just sitting in his back yard along with a couple other yotas
Old 03-23-2014, 12:00 PM
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Originally Posted by kawazx636
Your driveway looks like mine: Silver 2005 Tundra DC and a 1983 Pickup. If your wife has a 2008 Camry too, then I think you could be my long lost twin brother... Unless you need a plasma cutter for other projects, you are wasting your money. I didn't even use my plasma cutter at all replacing my floorpan. If you want fabrication tools, good right angle grinders, die grinders and a whole bunch of cutting wheels, grinding discs, flap discs and sanding discs are what you need to go for
so your name was dropped to me from toyotafiberglass I need some help with some floor pans
Old 03-23-2014, 06:23 PM
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check out his build thread that's where I got my inspiration from for making my floorpans. Slacker's thread is good too.
Old 03-23-2014, 06:25 PM
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Originally Posted by gillesdetrail
check out his build thread that's where I got my inspiration from for making my floorpans. Slacker's thread is good too.
just did thanks should of read more before asking
Old 03-24-2014, 06:47 AM
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What kind of help are you looking for?
Old 03-24-2014, 06:58 AM
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Originally Posted by kawazx636
What kind of help are you looking for?
your pictures of your mounts don't show how or what you fastened them to it looks as if you welded them to the inner rockers before you put in the floor ?'s are did you add support for them what material was used is there any support throughout the floor . I'm moving my front supports rearward a couple inches under front legs of 4xinovation's cage and my seats will also be on tubes from cage it's the cab supports I'm really concerned with ps as soon as I can afford a good camera I will Finnish my build plus more parts . Your pickup look sharp tundra and round fender
Old 03-24-2014, 07:30 AM
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Everything for the floorpan, tunnel, inner rockers and body mounts was 14ga steel - plenty strong enough. At first, I tack welded my body mounts to the inner rockers so that I could get a good test fit on the frame to ensure that they were in the proper location and to align the cab on the frame. Once I checked that, I burned the body mounts in real good to the inner rockers. They are plenty strong, in fact much stronger than factory.

The floors didn't need any additional support. Between the 14ga steel, seat rail mounts, the body mounts, the "ledge" I created when fabricating the inner rockers and the structural rigidity in the tunnel, the floors are well supported with no flex.
Old 03-24-2014, 02:57 PM
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Originally Posted by kawazx636
Everything for the floorpan, tunnel, inner rockers and body mounts was 14ga steel - plenty strong enough. At first, I tack welded my body mounts to the inner rockers so that I could get a good test fit on the frame to ensure that they were in the proper location and to align the cab on the frame. Once I checked that, I burned the body mounts in real good to the inner rockers. They are plenty strong, in fact much stronger than factory. The floors didn't need any additional support. Between the 14ga steel, seat rail mounts, the body mounts, the "ledge" I created when fabricating the inner rockers and the structural rigidity in the tunnel, the floors are well supported with no flex.
thank you so much ps how's the bed coming
Old 03-27-2014, 05:39 AM
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Messing around with an idea of mine anyone used a full crank scraper from LCE any info would be great thanks guys
Old 03-27-2014, 06:59 AM
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Corey said my bed should be done around the first - so it should be any day now. I'm completely stoked about it! Or at least until I get his final bill, LOL, but I know it will be well worth it considering I don't have to search for a decent steel bed and especially since I won't have to do any of the bodywork IF I were to find such a bed.

I never heard of the crank scrapers, but I looked it up on LCE's website and they look to be a good idea. I think it should be called something other than a "Crank scrapper" since that sounds so violent and destructive! I think the concept is good; HOWEVER, my only observation is that these little 22R's have a fairly long engine life without this type of modification and they don't exactly put out a whole lot of power so my thought would be why mess with an already good thing?? But then again, it could make a difference on a fully built engine. For example, we'll just say that these motors put out around 95HP. That's not a lot and people always ask "I have around $500 to spend on my truck, what can I do to increase my HP?" Typically, I say unless you have about $2,000 to spend you aren't going to see any considerable increase in power. To see a considerable increase you need to add a bunch of small modifications - a Weber carb, cam, crank, lightened rods, lightened flywheel, OS valves, OS pistons, desmogging, headers, exhaust, Offy intake, port/polished head, etc. Each modification could net you 2-5HP each, but put them all together and you're looking at an overall 25-35HP increase. A roughly 30% increase of power for $2,000 is well spent money if you ask me. I'm hoping to see around 135HP out of my engine when it's all said and done. Now I'll translate that to car like my Dad's '68 Camaro 327 RS. It puts out just over 300HP, but there isn't a single modification or series of modifications that will net you a 30% increase in power (90HP) for $2,000. Does that make sense? It's all relative to what you are working on.

Now these motors are by no means powerhouses, but they can certainly do some work and can be rather powerful if built up - Look at Don's (Suncomb) truck for instance. His '83 has a LCE Stage 5 stroker putting out a retarded 285HP - that's the equivalent of my '05 V8 Tundra! If you're looking at this crank scrapper to get you some extra power without doing anything else then I would say no, but if you adding a bunch of other mods then I would say throw it on the list. If you do it, certainly let us know how it works out - it might be something I would add as well.
Old 03-27-2014, 07:51 AM
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We estimate around 180 at flywheel for mine with almost 5 grand invested in it wow just thought of that
Any my idea was that a crank scraper might hold a little pool of oil in the pan on those extreme angles you find on the trail not running 7,000 rpm so oil shear nor crank drag are issues I've just spent a fortune on this so any insurance would be great
Old 03-27-2014, 08:20 AM
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I don't suppose it would hurt to try it. I would make sure your oil dummy light and oil pressure gauge are working properly before you test it out.
Old 04-04-2014, 07:36 AM
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Ok ordered the crank scraper I'll post picks after it gets here


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