avramhartman

Here's the truck as she currently sits. I've been over the body. There are a few dents, but nothing serious, and most important, no filler. Fixed the horn, and the seatbelts, but all three of the new ignition lock cylinders I've bought are wrong. No biggie, I'll just relocate the ignition switch. Here's why I'm posting this thread: I've always loved these trucks, but I'm no expert. What I want to build is a reliable driver, with mild upgrades. I don't do serious offroading, so a newer version of the stock 4x4 gear is acceptable to me, with the exception of lockers (which I understand are critical. Feel free to correct me there.) I can google everything, but I'm looking for some real world experience, and thoughts from the community. So, what should I seek out in terms of suspension, engine upgrades, etc.? How would y'all build it, if you were building a rock solid, daily driver, ranch truck?

84 yota dude

Cool little truck and welcome to the forum! I'd say make sure everything is solid mechanically first like drivetrain, suspension, ect. If you are looking for a small lift I have heard good things about old man emu.

gillesdetrail

iTrader: (1)

Hi avram, beautiful truck, and beautful bed! The toyota engineers designed this truck for just that, a rock solid ranch truck that can be used as a daily driver. Here is what I would do for some upgrades:

Engine:
Weber 32/36 carb with complete desmog for simplicity, fuel enconomy, a bit of performance too.
engnbldr 261 crawler cam for more power in the usable powerband (down low) *optional, you will probably need to re-jet the carb
complete engine tune-up with oem quality parts (spark plugs, wires, rotor, cap rotor, fuel filter, air filter, pcv valve, check timing (advance to 7-8* with weber).

Suspension:
-Replace all leaf spring bushings with rubber ones (oem style) or polyurethane ones (stiffer), makes for a solid driving truck and is pretty cheap (can be a ˟˟˟˟ job though!)
-Replace all lose and worn parts (check tie-rods, drag link and front axle for play) and replace with Moog (toyota/honda) parts or similar quality

Brakes, if/when they need replacing:
- good slotted rotors (very happy with my powertech) and quality ceramic brake pads
- replace brake fluid
-If you replace the rear brakes, also replace the rear axle seals, new rear brakes last a long time and you don't want oil al over the drums/pads if the seal is worn, else you'll have to do it all over again.

Offroading: Yes lockers are critical for traction when offroading, truly a night and day difference. I love my welded front and rear and wouldn't spend any money on lockers or spools, but that is my opinion, and welding front and rear diffs does come with drawbacks on the street. However a good winch can get you out of any situation.
A fj80 front tie-rod is much beefier, it can help in the event that you hit a rock with the tie-rod, there is less chance of bending.

For your ignition switch I'm not sure I understand when you say you will relocate it, just remember these trucks are sought after and already easy to break-in, don't make it easier on thiefs by having a switch and a button to start the truck

avramhartman

I have noticed that the leaf springs are nearly flat, so they'll surely need replacing. Is there a particular brand I should seek out? The ignition has already been modified by the previous owner. There's a hidden pushbutton to start the truck. Unfortunately, the ignition cylinder that was there is so old and worn, I can't get the key to turn. I've taken it out temporarily, and have been starting the truck with a screwdriver. I bought a replacement at Autozone (didn't fit) one on eBay (also no go), and called the dealer, who said they'd be happy to give me a part number, but they can't get it for me. So I figured I could just use one of these cylinders that doesn't fit, putting it in the dash somewhere. Of course, I'll have to disable the steering lock if I do that. I can install a power cut off as an anti-theft measure, if it comes to that. Good call on the Moog components. I definitely have to go through the steering, hub to hub. Who makes a good, mid-level, winch for this truck? Who do you like?

gillesdetrail

iTrader: (1)

Just know that even on these trucks brand new the front springs don't have much of an arch to them, but if these are the original springs they'll be most likely worn out anyway. You can get a leaf spring shop to make you new ones, or for about the same price you can get a set of OME springs, which seem to be the softest of the lift springs (2'' lift), you will need to check your shackle angle and relocate the shackle if necessary or else it will ride really bad. Good shocks are are must for a smoother ride (''smooth''), people seem to like the bilsteins the most.

For the ignition you can check the for sale section here or post a want-to-buy thread for a 1979-1983 steering column with key, just swap the column, plug in the harness and use the key it came with, to me it's the simplest and best solution.

For the winch you are better off with a used warn winch, for which you can buy all the parts new for a rebuild/repair, than buy a cheap chinese made new one. At least an 8000lbs, more than 9500 is overkill. You can also buy a pulley to double the pulling power, make sure you have 110% solid hook-up points.

There are front axle rebuild kits available from marlin crawler and trail gear, that have everything you will need for the front axle, I recomend buying a fish scale if you don't have access to one to check the pre-load on the knuckles.

avramhartman

What about Northwest Offroad springs? Yea or Nay?

toastyjosh

iTrader: (1)

http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/yotam...s-lr-7985.html

kawazx636

iTrader: (3)

If you want the best possible ride with a mild lift and mild capabilities without having to relocate your spring hangers then Old Man Emu springs with Old Man Emu or Bilstein shocks. They are the closest you are going to get (if not better) to the factory ride. Pretty much any other brand factory length springs are going to beat the living crap out of you whenever you hit a bump in the road - trust me there...I know! I was able to get OME springs, Bilstein shocks and greaseable TG shackles for around $900 for my truck. You will not find it any cheaper than that. Let me know if you need part numbers and good vendors for those suspension parts.