1983 Toyota Pickup.
05-07-2014, 01:14 PM
#62
Anyway, I encountered a big setback today. I originally planned on putting all new gaskets on the engine so it had no leaks when it was all back together. I pulled the valve cover today, and this is what I found:
So I'm pretty bummed about my find. I hadn't planned on rebuilding this engine. When I drove this thing home, it was ridiculous how gutless it was. I'm surprised it even got me home looking at the internals on it. And the reason I don't want to rebuild it is because I'm sure it will still be pretty gutless after a rebuild. And I originally just wanted to do gaskets to hold me over until I could locate a wrecked Tacoma with a 3rz. Not only that, but by the time I spend the money to send this thing off to the machine shop, desmog, carb, exhaust, etc. I feel like I could have spent comparible money to do a 3rz swap. So I'm not sure what to do right now.
So I'm pretty bummed about my find. I hadn't planned on rebuilding this engine. When I drove this thing home, it was ridiculous how gutless it was. I'm surprised it even got me home looking at the internals on it. And the reason I don't want to rebuild it is because I'm sure it will still be pretty gutless after a rebuild. And I originally just wanted to do gaskets to hold me over until I could locate a wrecked Tacoma with a 3rz. Not only that, but by the time I spend the money to send this thing off to the machine shop, desmog, carb, exhaust, etc. I feel like I could have spent comparible money to do a 3rz swap. So I'm not sure what to do right now.
Last edited by Erick561; 05-07-2014 at 04:54 PM.
05-07-2014, 01:19 PM
#63
How long ago did you paint your frame? Looking back on it now, I wish I'd gotten the right gun to spray the inside with POR 15. I probably could have done it with my shutz gun, but I couldn't find any empty canisters at the time to put the POR 15 in. That's how slacker did his and it came out pretty nice.
Didn't top coat it, it still looks the same 4 years later!
05-07-2014, 02:29 PM
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05-08-2014, 05:38 AM
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The past couple days I have finished my knuckles, removed bearing races (Any tips for installing the new races into the axle?), went to the junkyard and picked up some wheels, doors, headlight trim, and headlight buckets.
Por15, primer, and painted knuckles:
Junkyard finds:
And I started working on the spare doors:
I also finished up another project: Lifting my engine stand. Now it's ready to play in the rocks!
That's it for now. I still need to clean up my locking hubs, blast and paint the wheel hubs, get new wheel studs, vented rotors, v6 calipers, and then I should be ready to put it all back together.
Por15, primer, and painted knuckles:
Junkyard finds:
And I started working on the spare doors:
I also finished up another project: Lifting my engine stand. Now it's ready to play in the rocks!
That's it for now. I still need to clean up my locking hubs, blast and paint the wheel hubs, get new wheel studs, vented rotors, v6 calipers, and then I should be ready to put it all back together.
05-08-2014, 11:37 AM
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Yeah you're right. Originally I was going to weld two casters where the stock ones went, but the wheels would hit when pulling it backwards or turning. I may end up getting some longer square stock the length of the rear and welding them up like that.
05-08-2014, 08:29 PM
#70
I always keep all my old bearings and races for this very reason - I've collected a whole bunch of them over the years. Brass drifts can be great, but some times it can be a pain to drive them in straight. What I do is use the old race and a mallet to drive in the new race so that it drives in straight and doesn't marr the new race. Works great and I've never had a problem doing it.
05-09-2014, 04:16 AM
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I always keep all my old bearings and races for this very reason - I've collected a whole bunch of them over the years. Brass drifts can be great, but some times it can be a pain to drive them in straight. What I do is use the old race and a mallet to drive in the new race so that it drives in straight and doesn't marr the new race. Works great and I've never had a problem doing it.
05-09-2014, 05:24 AM
#75
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Im curious about the cam failure above. Lobe is wore exactly like the one on my 87 was. Literally. My cam was on an ebay head the previous owner had bought when the engine was rebuilt. Was that head/cam stock or possible ebay one like mine was? From what I understand...the factory cams are case hardened and rarely do that. The ebay ones...sometimes are not even hardened and smoke pretty quick. Do you know?
05-09-2014, 05:33 AM
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I have seen something quite similar to the picture you are talking about. I dont know the history of the head that I had or even looked to see if it had any factory stampings on it, but the cam was in the same shape. I curious for any more info as well.
05-09-2014, 02:21 PM
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Thanks for the advice guys! I remember the races were a tight fit coming all the way out. So I imagine they would work pretty well if cut down a little.
As for the camshaft, I can't say if it was aftermarket or OEM. I can say it had the factory carb, and a BUNCH of vacuum lines were plugged with caps and screws. It leaked out of every seal. Not all the lobes were worn down, though. Some were just bone dry.
And change of plans, going to scoop up some IFS hubs tomorrow and an axle housing to match. The extra width will be nice, but I mostly want it for the ease of breaking the axle down. One question, though. The guy who is selling these parts said the rear axle has a pinhole in it and patched it with some two part something? He said it doesn't leak, wants $150.00 for the rear axle minus the third member. Does this sound like a good idea/fair deal? I think if I haggle him a bit I'd come out alright.
As for the camshaft, I can't say if it was aftermarket or OEM. I can say it had the factory carb, and a BUNCH of vacuum lines were plugged with caps and screws. It leaked out of every seal. Not all the lobes were worn down, though. Some were just bone dry.
And change of plans, going to scoop up some IFS hubs tomorrow and an axle housing to match. The extra width will be nice, but I mostly want it for the ease of breaking the axle down. One question, though. The guy who is selling these parts said the rear axle has a pinhole in it and patched it with some two part something? He said it doesn't leak, wants $150.00 for the rear axle minus the third member. Does this sound like a good idea/fair deal? I think if I haggle him a bit I'd come out alright.
Last edited by Cab4you26; 05-09-2014 at 02:33 PM.
