Corey

iTrader: (1)

I have a 12v light in my roof top tent that plugs into the back of the FJs dual 12v outlets I have back there.
The other outlet is used for the ARB fridge.
I really do not like running the tents cord into the rear door and pinching it, so an idea came to be to try and build a setup just for the tent.
Plus I just added the 12v heating pad for the mattress for some winter camping, and I may want to plug in a reading light too.
Running all three of the above plus the ARB fridge would overwhelm the wiring that is used for the FJ Cruisers dual 12v outlets.
This means I could use a total of three new 12v outlets inside the tent for the above items, and run a box inside the tent with the outlets, and a 20' power cord with battery clamps on the end to hook up to my auxiliary battery under the hood.

A guy that goes by Jacket on Expeditionportal.com suggested a Radio Shack "project box."
He did a similar setup for his Jeep.
I went to Radio Shacks site and sure enough, they have these cool boxes available in many sizes.
My local Shack had some in stock, and I went with the 6"x4"x2" one.

I ended up using the marine 12v plugs as I liked the way they mount better than the Radio Shack ones.
With the former ones you insert the plug and secure it from behind with a threaded plastic nut that threads onto the shank of the 12v plug.
With the Radio Shack ones like I used for my dual 12v plugs in the FJ Cruiser, you push them into the hole and tangs pop out and secure it from behind.
If I have to remove a plug for any reason, the marine ones will be much easier to remove.
I did end up using the wires though from the Radio Shack outlets.
I did not use their fuses though, as I have a 30 amp mini fuse connected inline by the positive wire that clips to the battery terminal.

No time to open up the tent today and try it out, but I will update this thread with photos when I do.

I hope this info here can be of help to others wanting to do the same.
It turned out pretty good, and I am happy with it.

If I end up storing this in the tent, I may use some Velcro and attach the heating pads controller to the 12v box.

(1) Parts all laid out.
(2) I used the 1 1/8" hole saw to cut three holes into the side of the box.
(3) Yeah, I slipped while doing the middle hole, marred up the box a tad.



(4) 12v sockets all in place.
(5) Used a step drill to enlarge a hole big enough for the rubber grommet.
(6) Pulled the 12 gauge wire through the grommet and tied a knot in the end to prevent it from pulling back out.
All three red power wires from the sockets are twisted together along with the stripped end (I made this the positive wire) of the 12 gauge wire, and connected all to each other with the yellow wire caps.
Ditto on all of the black ground wires and the 12 gauge wire.
(7) Installed the two battery clamps, and buttoned up the box using both lids.
The black lid is on first along with the aluminum lid hanging off the bottom with the two lower screws that hold the black lid on.
My working theory here is I can slide the aluminum one down next to the tents mattress to help hold the box in place, that is if I mount it that way.
I may find another way to mount the box in the tent next time I open it up.



Here is a breakdown on my parts:
6"x4"x2" project box
20' 12 gauge low wattage underground outdoor lighting wire (bought 20' at Lowes)
Radio Shack 12v outlets
Marine Grade 12v outlets (I bought both to try out, I think I like the marine ones better)
In-Line Fuseholder with Protective Cap (I will throw a 15 amp mini fuse in it)
Lenox 1-1/8" Non-Arbored Hole Saw Drill Bit
Arbor for hole saw (no link at Lowes, but mine is a Lenox like the hole saw)
Radio Shack 12v car battery alligator clamps (do not see them on the website at this time)
Rubber grommet for 12 gauge wire to pass into the box

firemaniac

A couple of options for not having to lift the hood to connect, would be to use Anderson Powerpoles, or if you have a tow package with a 7 pin round connector, to wire up to the trailer charge wire as most manufactures and installers will let that be hot with the ignition off, for this you would only need to add a trailer end and wire up the power and ground.

Corey

iTrader: (1)

Thanks, I had thought about those quick disconnect plugs above.

I also have the trailer package, but I would have to look at my plug.
I wonder how much amperage though the trailer wring can provide, and where do they fuse those at most of the time?
That is a great idea if that pans out for the trailer wiring.

aviator

The trailer package on the FJ would be a 4way flat or round plug or a 6 way at best. The 7 way is generally only used for heavy trailers in the class IV or higher group that have elec. trailer brakes and on board batt's to charge like you might find in a race car/travel trailer.
The anderson plug would be your best bet... you could also fit out a set of booster cables with an anderson. With a receptacle at either end of the FJ be ready and able to offer a boost to anyone from either end.

firemaniac

I believe the fuse will be in the under hood power center, I wouldn't worry about the size of the wire, to much, as it is in place to provide a charge to a trailer battery, and what you are planning on I think it would be ok. For heavy power demands, now or in the future, I would definitely add the powepoles fused to an auxiliary battery.

When I added my tow package I put in 8 gauge wire, specifically for running higher than normal power to the trailer.

firemaniac

When I was doing installs these 7 pin RV connectors were all we installed, as everything we sold including the smallest tent trailers came with theme, including batteries and brakes, they are pretty standard through out at least the travel trailer industry. However I never had the opportunity to do an install on a new FJ as I quit working at the trailer place before Toyota built the new FJ, and we didn't sell cargo or utility trailers.

I agree with the use of the powerpoles as they can handle much higher amperage, depending on the model, and the ability to connect jumpers from either end, with out lifting the hood, and as a side benefit it makes it harder for someone to disappear your jumper cables.

aviator

Interesting... around here you only get a seven pin RV plug if you demand it and pay lots extra [or else buy a brake controller at the same time] standard install is a 4 pin flat "boat" plug.

Corey

iTrader: (1)

Just checked, mine has a four pin plug.
http://www.accessconnect.com/trailer_wiring_diagram.htm



The image above with one male three female is what I have.
So there is probably no charge line in it.

firemaniac

No charge there, only left turn/brake, right turn/brake, tail (or running) lights, and ground. powerpole's may be your best option.

However if you were to build or buy a trailer(to carry all that stuff I see you reviewing) like an M101, the RV plug would be a good thing to add to include brakes and power.

Corey

iTrader: (1)

I may end up getting the harness done in the future, as one of these may be in my future.

firemaniac

Nice, when you get ready to add the harness, it is easy to do yourself. The hardest part should be wire routing, or finding the brake wire under the dash.

Corey

iTrader: (1)

Today I popped open the tent and hooked up the new box to the battery.
That extra alloy lid that came with the box worked out like I thought it would.
It wedged in between the mattress and holds the box up.

I plugged in the 12 tent light and it works in any of the three outlets.
But as soon as I plugged in the 12 v bunk pad warmer, BAM!, it blows the 30 amp fuse up by the battery.
This was with the tents light running too, and I would imagine the light can not be pulling over 1/2 amp?
The warmer pad pulls 7 amps max or so.

I am suspecting the pad is defective or the plug is.
I did not have time to investigate it further, but I will be ordering a 12v extension cord that goes right to the battery, and I will see what happens when I plug the bunk pad directly to it.
If it blows, I will cut off the bunk pad cigg plug and wire in a new one.

I do not think it can be my wiring of the box, as I mentioned all three sockets worked when I tested out the tents light.

aa1911

iTrader: (1)

Didn't want to start a new thread yet, thought I'd piggyback on this old one and see if I got any hits.

In the back of my runner, I'm putting in aux 12v outlets (2), a voltmeter and some extra overhead interior led lights plus laying the wiring for future additions: 4 overhead 100w lights, 2 55w backup lights and possibly a compressor.

Here is my tentative wiring diagram, I'm a bit rusty and wanted to get input from some bigger electronic brains. I started with 2 10g wires which is maybe a bit overkill but considering the distance and amount of stuff on here I wanted to go bigger to stay safe.

I have all the stuff already and will post up some pics later, even started on the wiring harness.

The overhead lights have in cab switches (2) and the reverse lights I want an in cab switch so I can toggle on or off my aux reverse lights so when I'm around town I don't blind someone when I don't need them.

The 12V sockets I want to have an indicator light come on when there is power flowing, either a LED or a small lamp. The voltmeter was more of a novelty thing, it's to monitor my battery when I'm out camping as we keep the back open and I want to run radio and possibly a cooler while the runner is not running for short periods.

The interior overhead lights are actually driving lights I picked up at autozone for $30, they are LED lights and I want to be able to turn them on seperately.

I'm leaving a split in the middle of the 2 10g wires (about the middle of the vehicle) for on board air compressor and my future overhead lights.

Tell me what you think! I'm open to suggestions/corrections on my wiring diagram. Note the relays have clamping diodes wired in as well to kill voltage spikes when the unit is powered off.

aa1911

iTrader: (1)

a small correction on the diagram, the LED indicator lights for the 12v outlets would be wired in parallel, not series as shown fyi. I don't need all the juice going thru a LED!

aa1911

iTrader: (1)

word up, check out my post on this thread for aux power outlets in my 4runner and a bunch of other stuff.

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f5/w...5/index11.html

I really am considering solar panels but I live in WA state, soooo..... yeah, the sun just went away last week and won't see it for a while. They should still get decent juice even on cloudy days I've been told.... maybe I'll just wire up an aux battery but the thought of not one but TWO batteries makes my wallet shiver with fear.....