When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
From my understanding the glow plug control module has a timer that will automatically cut power. I plan on hooking it up to a 12v key on wire that I cut from the ECU and have no use for. Hopefully it all checks out. Today Im going to pick up a couple 10" pusher fans to mount in front of the A/C cooler and hopefully it will cool the radiator enough too.
If you take a multimeter and probe the wiring harness that comes up the steering column into the steering wheel, you'll find a key-on 12V source. This is where I got my glow plug solenoid-trigger power from.
Just got through talking with a buddy who has a 300D. Bosch made an upgraded Glow Plug controller kit for the 617/616 engines, it is activated by 12v from ignition but also has a connection from 12v to starter and detects when the engines starts then depending on under-hood temperature can cycle the plugs after the engine starts to keep idle smooth and smoke down. It will shut off regardless of power to the "ign" wire.
The part number is Bosch 0250201953, he said they're hard to find but I'm going to look around.
EDIT: It looks like all the GP controllers use a wire in the Mbenz to stop the glow duration when the starter's used; the only difference with the newer ones is they may continue to glow after the engines starts.
So tonight while dropping the engine in it seems that my transmission is too far forward by about an inch. I know I have the w56 kit and transmission but it makes no sense as to why the engine is too far forward. I can tell the whole thing needs to go back an inch because of the firewall gap and the motor mounts not lining up exactly. I am stumped at this point. Any advice would be extremely helpful.
I have 2 guesses. 1 is you didn't get the stock location motor mounts, but you got the mounts to move the motor/tranny assembly back assuming you are going to modify the transmission mount.
2 is you started with a V6 tranny which might have a different tranny crossmember, so the W56 is located differently.
Can you get me the measurement from the center of the one bolt coming out of the stock rubber mount, to one of the Mercedes block bolts? Let me know which one you choose. I'll compare to my motor mounts which are for setting the motor in the stock position and let you know what I come up with.
Well I ended up moving the tranny back about an inch and modified the crossmember mount and everything mounted up great! Almost finished building the A/C bracket and time to tackle some wiring. My new radiator from summit racing showed up Friday as well as a sweet intercooler setup from Joe that looks top notch. One thing I'm still unsure on his cooling fans. I was thinking 2 10" fans in front of the AC condenser but not sure which ones/brand.
The only recommendation I can give on electric fans is going with the Taurus fan. The key to an electric fan is the sensor and the wiring. The fan is only as good as the wiring feeding it. Most sensors just stick into the cooling fins of the radiator. They typically only last a couple years. You will get what you pay for when it comes to the fan sensors.
My two 12" fans seem to move enough air, engine had no problem staying cool for test run today in 90 degrees only 1 fan kicked on.
In other news, I removed the ECU and now have no starter, voltmeter, or 12v at the igniter wire. Fuses all ok, I bet I snipped something I shouldn't have. Did you have to do any splicing when you removed your ECU or did you just remove the wires going to the ECU plugs (3)?
When I removed mine all I had to do was remove all the wires that let to the 3 ECU plugs and kept the remaining 2 plugs and everything seems to work just fine.
At this point I plan on doing a 2" body lift for clearance purposes and scored on one at the local pnp for $6. I am currently finishing up the A/C bracket and modifying the downpipe so i can route the exhaust. I plan on running all the way back to the stock location. I have yet to find the correct alternator for this kit I bought.
One more issue is that the oil pan is not even close to being right. The whole engine buckles when turned in both directions. I plan on modifying the spare. I have seen that some people modify the pickup tube as well.
The alternator I used was a Powermaster 7127, the CS130 case which fits the TDswaps bracket perfectly. My TDswaps oil pan is ˟˟˟˟˟ as well, hoping I can just modify the spare pan with a better notch but have a feeling we will need to rotate the pickup.
That sounds like the alternator I used. It was a CS130. As far as the oil pickup, I didn't have to touch mine, even with a SAS which moves the axle forward, and a 7-pack leaf spring setup and high steer.
Been working on the truck here in there lately. Yesterday i got a huge chunk of it done. Basically all i have left is oil cooler lines and mounting the cooler. I also have to run hoses and wiring. I ended up cutting the oil pickup tube and rotating it and cut the pan quite a bit more than how i got it, have no idea what they were thinking.. I mounted the radiator and it looks like its meant to go there from the factory as well as the intercooler and cooling fans.
Intercooler cut out. I bought a hood scoop to cover it.
Radiator mounted with rubber in between the clamps top and bottom.
Right intercooler bracket bolted to the throttle cable mount.
Left Intercooler bracket as well as a the milled intake inlet.
Hey man I am at the end of my swap right now and cannot figure out how to hook up my mercedes power steering pump to my toyota gear box. Any idea what fittings/hoses I can swap around to get this to work? Your swap looks great by the way, I wish my mine was this clean!
Nice job on the intercooler! The AC bracket looks great as well. Are you using your stock suction/discharge lines? My suction hose from evap to compressor is too short by 1" to allow the compressor to be installed. I'm thinking I could get a suction hose from a 22RE truck which should be long enough and have same fittings?
Well I broke the oil pickup tube in half. Bummer. However i already got a new one from the wrecking yard and cut and welded it again. As for the A/C bracket i left it all hooked up and used the stock lines which was nice. The oil cooler i have converted everything to JIC fittings because its free through my dads work. I bought adapters for the oil filter housing and drilled and tapped the oil cooler. Hoping to have this thing going by the weekend.
Its been forever since i have updated this thread. Been crazy busy.
Anyways, The truck is complete and drives like a dream. Had to work out some kinks but it has great power and I'm averaging about 27 mpg. It was down on power but i figured out the throttle travel was limited by about half which made it feel like it had no secondary. Adjusted that and the truck is an animal.
I have a M pump on order through dieselmeken and hoping for 200 ish hp. One problem i am having is cooling. Normal driving it never gets hot but when i hit long hills towing or loaded down my temps skyrocket. I know half my battle is my fans not pushing nearly enough air so thats the first approach to fix the problem. We'll see where that takes me.
I will post some videos soon of it running and driving. Sounds great!
I have a full 3 inch straight pipe in the factory location to a 4" tip.
Im running 14 psi of boost and my egts are in great shape with the intercooler. I never see anything over 950. I have 4.88 gears and 35s and seems like the perfect ratio for comfortable driving. Gets great mileage at 65 and will pull all the way to 85.
Other than that I love the swap and would do it again for the power, reliability, and mileage. Any questions, feel free to ask! To anyone in Vancouver, WA area, I would love to see your rigs as well.
That is so awesome! 27mpg! So your egt's are under wraps but the water temp is up? That's great to hear. I'm 100% sure my last motor was a lemon, it was so horrible (hot and gutless). The only problem it didn't have was keeping a cool water temp. I had a custom summit radiator and steel mechanical fan. It got hot once, and turned out to be a stuck thermostat (cheap replacement). I bought the most expensive thermostat and never had another problem out of it. It was also a hassle to get the air all purged out. Another weird fact is I didn't even have a fan shroud. Oh, I did have 2 bottles of Red Line Water Wetter in the system. Hope something in this rant helps! By the way your truck looks bad ass.
Thanks for all the input Joe!
I have the summit radiator as well which I know isn't the problem. I bought a top of the line thermostat and tested it so I'm good there. I'm 99% sure the radiator isn't getting enough air after looking at the grill and feeling the fans barely moving air. Thanks for the compliments!!
I will be doing my SAS next month!
Started the TDI swap yet?!
04-22-2015, 11:07 AM
