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What (if anything) did you do with the intake ventury? I'm trying to do some research on it with my 3L. I'm not finding anything. I'm assuming it's part of the EGR system. ??? All my manual says about it, is what it's supposed to do when the engine is running, or shut down. Thanks!
Rustbucket,
Yes its part of the Now totally removed EGR system. I believe others have referred to that as the " butterfly " And others have mentioned its for a smooth shutdown. I read a post somewhere that it had been disabled and made no difference in the shutdown.
So I turkey tied it wide open. BTW....I removed the intake manifold and cleaned it out. Geez..What a nasty mess.. I don't see how filling up your Intake manifold with soot can be a good Idea.. I also read thats one of the causes of head to fail from cracking.
So ya.. pump in the soot and 1000+ degree hot exhaust in there.. NOT... Sorry ..Mini rant..
I'm down to all I need is a Starter and I could test run this critter..
Did yours come with a Starter ??? If so how many tooth starter ??
Did yours come with a Starter ??? If so how many tooth starter ??
Clancy
Thanks for the help! And yes, I did order it with a starter. I counted 11 teeth on it just now.
A few months ago, I found starters for 1986 2lt powered pickups on Auto Zone's website. I don't remember any prices though.
Rustbucket,
I also did see those starters on both Autozone and O'Reillys parts pages.
Copy on the 11 teeth.. So is that a 2L or 3L that your 11 tooth starter fits ?
I posted on an Australian Hilux/Surf forum and got the same answer. There interchangeable.
One fella said if its an older 2L with Rockers its 11tooth.. If newer with buckets and shims then 10 tooth.
but went on to say their interchangeable...
I'm In the process of removing my V6, and am stuck on the wiring. I thought maybe since your dealing with the same, you could give me some pointers.
I'm willing to keep my ECU to simplify things, but don't want to cut any wires in the process. There's 3, separate plugs on it, and I'm wondering which one(s) control the engine and tranny.
Here's a pic. Thanks!
You need a wiring schematic. The ecu and trans share multiple connection points, meaning, there are plenty obably trans wires in each connector to the ecu.
I got the diesel running this last weekend. Just long enough to be sure its a runner..not a fixer. I got the timing belt cover back on. All the pulleys and belts. I was going to use the fan from the long gone V6 but shucky darn.. its to big around.
Ends up tight against the power steering pump. The fan it came with was toast. Found one on Ebay..
Still moving forward..
Rustbucket,
I'm sure i'm not going to be much help on the wiring. Each to his own..I pulled the ECM out. Guts, Feathers and all.. I have 3 wires running out through the massive hole where the harness went through the firewall.
They run the Temp and the oil pressure. Right off the bat I can't remember what the 3rd one does but it must have been important. As for the Tacho..maybe later..The Speedo is my Garmin.. And all that monkey business
with the ADD 4X4 system.. Poof ...All gone.. I locked the side thing in the front diff in place with a hose clamp and have Warn premium hubs on the way.
Sounds good! Thanks for helping. I did some reading, and it looks like cruise has its own computer, with only 1 wire going to the ECM. I'm not sure what exactly it does, but I pulled the ECU/ECM and now the engine is ready to depart.😁
Engine swap update.... I set the engine down in and bolted up a couple of the bell housing bolts. The motor mounts are about 4 inches apart. The engine is to far forward. The deep well area of the oil pan ends up right above the front differential.
not so good.. Has any of you run into this problem ?? How did you resolve the issue ??
You aren't being clear... if the engine is too far forward and interferes with the differential.... I think that's self explanatory.
And you are going to be hard pressed to find someone on here that has swapped a 2L.
Thanks RBX,
Yep...this project just took a major turn towards ugly. this should be the same as those
that have swapped out the V6 for a 22r or RE. I read somewhere that the 2L engines are the '
same size and mount up like the 22R.. So self explanatory would mean I probably need to
figure out how to move the Entire engine/trans back 4 inches ??
I posted here hoping someone mite know a simple solution.
It is a simple solution.... cut and weld new mounts.
When I read your post before, I was thinking about the 22re to 5vz swap. The difference between the two motor mounts are only a couple inches at most if I recall correctly, So your 4 inches may not even align with the 22re mount location....who knows? Either way you need a welder, sorry to say...... or some savy fab skills to make relocation brackets that bolt in. Try checking the Aussie forums for information. They usually swap in commadore v6's or v8's, but they had a bunch of 2L's.
Thanks RBX,
Had this truck originally came with the 22RE this swap likely would have gone a lot smoother.
I've spent the afternoon looking through forums for answers. No one has made any mention of
having to Re-locate there transmission to make the engine fit. i wonder if the W56 Transmissions
are shorter in length. My research suggests that was the transmission that came with the 22R.
My R150 coupled with the diesel bell housing are proving to be to long.
If I move the transmission back the stick shift will be in the wrong place..
I'm in a pickle now.......
A dash of good news....A glimmer of hope.. I've learned there are two different oil pans for the 2L-T.
A 2WD pan.. that i have now..
and a much shorter looking pan for the 4WD application.
when doing an engine swap, and not just replacing the same model engine, you need to prioritize the installation..... meaning, what has priority for function... the engine needs to be under the hood and off the differential, period. There may be some wiggle room of a few inches forward and back, and up and down, but mostly the engine is only going to fit one way. You should also consider how to perform maintenance on the engine once it is installed, this will affect the final placement of the engine mounts. Notice I haven't mentioned the transmission? I know the transmission will fit under the rig, and most likely will not align with the hole for the shifter, or trans mount. These issues can be resolved by fabbing a new trans mount, and a shifter as these two solutions are easy to achieve rather then trying to figure out how to make engine mounts that don't require welding so that the shifter hole and trans align to the current set-up. You will also need new driveshafts, or you may be able to use driveshafts from different models, I think Pirate4x4 has a list of driveshaft lengths and the models they belong to.
Find your oil pan, and get the engine located. Plan on fabbing a trans mount along with new motor mounts and a new shifter.... I see a welding in your future.
05-30-2017, 02:37 PM
