Bigtrucknwheels' 90 Pickup 7M-GE Swap
06-14-2011, 03:06 PM
#21
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I have no build thread yet because it would be indefinitely stalled. I'm currently working on three vehicles:
1995 BMW M3
1986.5 Toyota Supra Turbo
1994 Toyota Pickup 4x4
And divide my time mostly into the M3 and Pickup. The Supra is getting a roll cage whenever I decide exactly what I want. Hopefully I'll start on the 7M swap into the truck next month, assuming all goes well...
06-14-2011, 05:01 PM
#23
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Update:
My uncle fell off some stairs that go to the top of the shop, long story short, he doesn't have any health insurance and has to sue the property owner. Guess who is building a new set of steps for the shop instead of working on his truck? If you guessed me, you're correct. But in the downtime, I am gathering up stuff like the oil pan and the gaskets I will need.
I may do the wiring in the truck in advance since the motor I bought came with the body side clips of the harness as well. I will certainly take some time and document this with lots of pics and instructions, but this weekend I am going to http://www.hyper-fest.com/ , so no new work to the truck is scheduled. Hang in there, I will be back on this a.s.a.p., but you know how life goes sometimes
My uncle fell off some stairs that go to the top of the shop, long story short, he doesn't have any health insurance and has to sue the property owner. Guess who is building a new set of steps for the shop instead of working on his truck? If you guessed me, you're correct. But in the downtime, I am gathering up stuff like the oil pan and the gaskets I will need.
I may do the wiring in the truck in advance since the motor I bought came with the body side clips of the harness as well. I will certainly take some time and document this with lots of pics and instructions, but this weekend I am going to http://www.hyper-fest.com/ , so no new work to the truck is scheduled. Hang in there, I will be back on this a.s.a.p., but you know how life goes sometimes
07-04-2011, 03:31 PM
#25
No you don't, just hack up the 7M's A/C compressor bracket and reuse the 22RE pump and reservoir on the same side of the engine. Requires you to find a pulley with the requisite number of v-rib grooves and have the center machined out to .710"/18mm before you hand file a keyway (keyway only took me 2 minutes to make). the brackets to adapt it are simple though. Just get your pulley machined and mounted to the pump and fab the brackets while it's on the eng stand so everything lines up - I think I used a piece of angle iron to line up the pulleys.
- I was able to reuse the 22RE P/S pump by moving the reservoir down on the inner fender a bit and having the 7M pulley center bore machined to .710" and hand filing a keyway (7M uses a ribbed belt) - further the 7M A/C bracket needs to be cut up a bit and a simple bracket fabbed up to adapt the pump to the A/C bracket, I also made a nother bracket to brace the pump in an attempt to reduce vibration and bracket flex under belt tension
07-05-2011, 11:55 AM
#27
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Just subscribed. I have a 1991 4runner with the 3.slow and a a340h. thinking of this swap. anyone know of the chance of keeping the auto? Maybe do the a340f with the marlin adapter?
07-06-2011, 11:23 AM
#28
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thanks!
07-06-2011, 11:31 AM
#29
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life's been busy as of late, but to bring you up to speed, I haven't really gotten anywhere yet. I am still working on tracking down an oil pan, but I feel pretty confident that this project will be put on high priority mode real soon, with a visit to a buddy's shop where hopefully we can bang it out in two weekends.
but for now, check out this truck pr0n. Got these mint 17" Tundra rims and 1/3 tread BF Goodrich Ruggedtrails with all 4 center caps and lug nuts... for 225 bucks. Gotta love craigslist
but for now, check out this truck pr0n. Got these mint 17" Tundra rims and 1/3 tread BF Goodrich Ruggedtrails with all 4 center caps and lug nuts... for 225 bucks. Gotta love craigslist
07-15-2011, 10:30 PM
#30
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I finally got started on the motor tonight. It's been a long time coming, but I am going to try to be aggressive with this project for the next few weekends haha.
enough rattling, on with the pictures!
got part of the upper intake manifold off. Headers on now for looks only haha
I wanted to see the condition of the cams as a precursor for the rest of the motor. looks pretty darn promising to me, keeping my fingers crossed
good news here me thinks. There is some fine micro grooving, but no gouging/scoring/heat damage that I could notice.
I'll finish removing the upper intake manifold tomorrow, among other things
and a little glamor shot
More to follow tomorrow
enough rattling, on with the pictures!
got part of the upper intake manifold off. Headers on now for looks only haha
I wanted to see the condition of the cams as a precursor for the rest of the motor. looks pretty darn promising to me, keeping my fingers crossed
good news here me thinks. There is some fine micro grooving, but no gouging/scoring/heat damage that I could notice.
I'll finish removing the upper intake manifold tomorrow, among other things
and a little glamor shot
More to follow tomorrow
Last edited by bigtrucknwheels; 07-15-2011 at 10:32 PM.
07-16-2011, 02:46 PM
#32
Right on, I've not seen you for a while, and....well, now I know where ya went! lol.
I LOVED My Cressida.... and I had a Sleeper, Z-series Japanese Motor in it?(something my former mechanic in AZ told me).... Anyway, that thing was a ROCKET! lol. I've seen them lately, running well, no real dramatic leaks, ticks, etc., for around 1000$ for the whole car, ... might be a good plan in the long run.
PS> LOVE That look with the straight 6/w/HEADER~!
I LOVED My Cressida.... and I had a Sleeper, Z-series Japanese Motor in it?(something my former mechanic in AZ told me).... Anyway, that thing was a ROCKET! lol. I've seen them lately, running well, no real dramatic leaks, ticks, etc., for around 1000$ for the whole car, ... might be a good plan in the long run.
PS> LOVE That look with the straight 6/w/HEADER~!
07-19-2011, 09:16 AM
#33
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Right on, I've not seen you for a while, and....well, now I know where ya went! lol.
I LOVED My Cressida.... and I had a Sleeper, Z-series Japanese Motor in it?(something my former mechanic in AZ told me).... Anyway, that thing was a ROCKET! lol. I've seen them lately, running well, no real dramatic leaks, ticks, etc., for around 1000$ for the whole car, ... might be a good plan in the long run.
PS> LOVE That look with the straight 6/w/HEADER~!
I LOVED My Cressida.... and I had a Sleeper, Z-series Japanese Motor in it?(something my former mechanic in AZ told me).... Anyway, that thing was a ROCKET! lol. I've seen them lately, running well, no real dramatic leaks, ticks, etc., for around 1000$ for the whole car, ... might be a good plan in the long run.
PS> LOVE That look with the straight 6/w/HEADER~!
Thanks for checking in
07-19-2011, 09:19 AM
#34
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UPDATE:
No pictures, it wasn't dramatic. I finished cleaning the garage inside and out, taking up much of Saturday when I had planned to work, and Sunday is family day.
BUT... I did get something done. I re-torqued the head to 75 ft-lb. Judging by how hard the bolts were to crack, I'd say this motor has been opened up before.
No pictures, it wasn't dramatic. I finished cleaning the garage inside and out, taking up much of Saturday when I had planned to work, and Sunday is family day.
BUT... I did get something done. I re-torqued the head to 75 ft-lb. Judging by how hard the bolts were to crack, I'd say this motor has been opened up before.
07-19-2011, 09:27 AM
#35
I wouldn't be so sure, Big, ........ I've cracked them on my other White runner's 22RE after AT LEAST 200k of never being opened, they all POPPED hard! Not saying you're wrong, ..... hopefully you wont have to find out, sooner than later, ya know? You'll know for sure, eventually, when you crack her open for a rebuild or somethin. Still, ...... VERY EXCITED FOR YA! I can't wait to see your results.
I would love to go to a "SWAP" show, ..... for Yota's, of course, to see some differences in feel, get some feedback, etc. I know, there are many 'threads', ...but just something about DRIVING in one! LOL. My buddy did a 5.0 into one and another did a 350..... The 5.0 with very lil modification SMOKED my buddy's w/the 350!
Sorry bout the cheesegrater options! lol. Looking forward to completion..... bet you are too, eh? hahaha
I would love to go to a "SWAP" show, ..... for Yota's, of course, to see some differences in feel, get some feedback, etc. I know, there are many 'threads', ...but just something about DRIVING in one! LOL. My buddy did a 5.0 into one and another did a 350..... The 5.0 with very lil modification SMOKED my buddy's w/the 350!
Sorry bout the cheesegrater options! lol. Looking forward to completion..... bet you are too, eh? hahaha
07-19-2011, 06:00 PM
#36
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I wouldn't be so sure, Big, ........ I've cracked them on my other White runner's 22RE after AT LEAST 200k of never being opened, they all POPPED hard! Not saying you're wrong, ..... hopefully you wont have to find out, sooner than later, ya know? You'll know for sure, eventually, when you crack her open for a rebuild or somethin. Still, ...... VERY EXCITED FOR YA! I can't wait to see your results.
I would love to go to a "SWAP" show, ..... for Yota's, of course, to see some differences in feel, get some feedback, etc. I know, there are many 'threads', ...but just something about DRIVING in one! LOL. My buddy did a 5.0 into one and another did a 350..... The 5.0 with very lil modification SMOKED my buddy's w/the 350!
Sorry bout the cheesegrater options! lol. Looking forward to completion..... bet you are too, eh? hahaha
I would love to go to a "SWAP" show, ..... for Yota's, of course, to see some differences in feel, get some feedback, etc. I know, there are many 'threads', ...but just something about DRIVING in one! LOL. My buddy did a 5.0 into one and another did a 350..... The 5.0 with very lil modification SMOKED my buddy's w/the 350!
Sorry bout the cheesegrater options! lol. Looking forward to completion..... bet you are too, eh? hahaha
07-19-2011, 07:02 PM
#37
Well, to be precise, it was a built 5.0 93 LX Mustang motor.... Fuel Injected, etc. I've been in plenty that whooped even big blocks... but I think it was just because, like I said, it was slightly built with goodies, ...plus the Fuel Injection, headers, yadda yadda, and the 350 was pretty much a mostly stock torque monster, 2bbl Carb'd, no headers. It was built right, just not to be a rocket, lol. So yes, it got SMOKED by the 5.0, lol.
I'm excited for ya, man! Can't wait for the ''IT'S FREAKIN AWESOME" video as you drive by the cam! lol.
I'm excited for ya, man! Can't wait for the ''IT'S FREAKIN AWESOME" video as you drive by the cam! lol.
07-26-2011, 06:20 PM
#38
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I've only been able to work at this truck on the weekends because I am away during the week for school and work, but nevertheless, I press on.
With the help of my friend Preston, we got the block all stripped down.
Pile o'parts to clean and reassemble
after we pulled off the belts, we noticed the pulley was able to easily slide back and forth and in and out a little... time to pull it off to investigate. SST? I don't need no stinkin' SST. Just the angle grinder wrench from my harbor freight special and a lot of manhandling
oh no.... broke my heart to see this.... I wonder how this happened...
But that wasn't the worst part
its wallowed out a little bit...
worn key
and someone removed a plastic plug from the timing cover at one point, or it fell out, but I think the idler pulley will need done. Might as well do a timing belt while I'm at it. water pump looks good though!
That was all for this past weekend. This weekend, I plan to tap out the shaft and see if its any good. Preston has a spare 7M sitting around with a pulley, key, and bolt I can try out to make sure the threads will hold. If not, I will helicoil it.
As for the key, that turns out to be no problem at all! Gotta love Google... I found this stuff, Loctite 660 Quik Metal, meant specifically for repairing worn keyways, fully bonded, it locks in at a breaking force of 2000 psi per inch bonded. Apparently Miata guys use this stuff all the time.
Mazda guys:
http://www.miata.net/garage/hsue/LoctiteCrank1.html
Loctite website with short vid about 660:
http://www.henkelna.com/SID-145508E5...2944-12974.htm
Hoping and praying I can get by without the helicoil. Considering how the bolt is stripped, it looks like I might actually be ok. The threads are stripped on the nose, but not the body of the bolt. I would assume this happened by trying to install the pulley using the bolt, but they failed when the nose of the bolt stripped. I dunno... I just hope its an easy fix. On the bright side, I only broke one bolt on the entire engine! And its a small, easy-to-get bolt, luckily
With the help of my friend Preston, we got the block all stripped down.
Pile o'parts to clean and reassemble
after we pulled off the belts, we noticed the pulley was able to easily slide back and forth and in and out a little... time to pull it off to investigate. SST? I don't need no stinkin' SST. Just the angle grinder wrench from my harbor freight special and a lot of manhandling
oh no.... broke my heart to see this.... I wonder how this happened...
But that wasn't the worst part
its wallowed out a little bit...worn key
and someone removed a plastic plug from the timing cover at one point, or it fell out, but I think the idler pulley will need done. Might as well do a timing belt while I'm at it. water pump looks good though!
That was all for this past weekend. This weekend, I plan to tap out the shaft and see if its any good. Preston has a spare 7M sitting around with a pulley, key, and bolt I can try out to make sure the threads will hold. If not, I will helicoil it.
As for the key, that turns out to be no problem at all! Gotta love Google... I found this stuff, Loctite 660 Quik Metal, meant specifically for repairing worn keyways, fully bonded, it locks in at a breaking force of 2000 psi per inch bonded. Apparently Miata guys use this stuff all the time.
Mazda guys:
http://www.miata.net/garage/hsue/LoctiteCrank1.html
Loctite website with short vid about 660:
http://www.henkelna.com/SID-145508E5...2944-12974.htm
Hoping and praying I can get by without the helicoil. Considering how the bolt is stripped, it looks like I might actually be ok. The threads are stripped on the nose, but not the body of the bolt. I would assume this happened by trying to install the pulley using the bolt, but they failed when the nose of the bolt stripped. I dunno... I just hope its an easy fix. On the bright side, I only broke one bolt on the entire engine! And its a small, easy-to-get bolt, luckily
