1UZFE Swap humble beginings.
09-21-2012, 12:46 PM
#21
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Something in here may help you...
http://supra7.net/4Runner/Days789/
http://supra7.net/4Runner/Days10-14/
Sorry for the crappy pix.
Just a couple things, make sure you service the starter while you are at it....(I ignored everyone else who said to do it, and lets just say I regret it to this day...)
Be forewarned, if you are planning to use the A340H trans/xfer, I hope someone has cracked the code to make it work. Otherwise, you will think you're almost done and then have no transfercase. Speaking from experience. Last I heard there was no slam dunk on getting the Hydro transfercase part to work...hence the H in the A340H.
My Chevy 350 circuit car radiator is not enough when pulling a load up a steep grade or running the AC on a 95+ degree day, but it is more of a fan issue than a radiator issue. The truck runs at a constant 200 degrees otherwise, and has been functioning solid since January of....2009 maybe?
http://supra7.net/4Runner/Days789/
http://supra7.net/4Runner/Days10-14/
Sorry for the crappy pix.
Just a couple things, make sure you service the starter while you are at it....(I ignored everyone else who said to do it, and lets just say I regret it to this day...)
Be forewarned, if you are planning to use the A340H trans/xfer, I hope someone has cracked the code to make it work. Otherwise, you will think you're almost done and then have no transfercase. Speaking from experience. Last I heard there was no slam dunk on getting the Hydro transfercase part to work...hence the H in the A340H.
My Chevy 350 circuit car radiator is not enough when pulling a load up a steep grade or running the AC on a 95+ degree day, but it is more of a fan issue than a radiator issue. The truck runs at a constant 200 degrees otherwise, and has been functioning solid since January of....2009 maybe?
Last edited by ExcessFC; 09-21-2012 at 12:56 PM.
09-21-2012, 05:56 PM
#22
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Something in here may help you...
http://supra7.net/4Runner/Days789/
http://supra7.net/4Runner/Days10-14/
Sorry for the crappy pix.
Just a couple things, make sure you service the starter while you are at it....(I ignored everyone else who said to do it, and lets just say I regret it to this day...)
Be forewarned, if you are planning to use the A340H trans/xfer, I hope someone has cracked the code to make it work. Otherwise, you will think you're almost done and then have no transfercase. Speaking from experience. Last I heard there was no slam dunk on getting the Hydro transfercase part to work...hence the H in the A340H.
My Chevy 350 circuit car radiator is not enough when pulling a load up a steep grade or running the AC on a 95+ degree day, but it is more of a fan issue than a radiator issue. The truck runs at a constant 200 degrees otherwise, and has been functioning solid since January of....2009 maybe?
http://supra7.net/4Runner/Days789/
http://supra7.net/4Runner/Days10-14/
Sorry for the crappy pix.
Just a couple things, make sure you service the starter while you are at it....(I ignored everyone else who said to do it, and lets just say I regret it to this day...)
Be forewarned, if you are planning to use the A340H trans/xfer, I hope someone has cracked the code to make it work. Otherwise, you will think you're almost done and then have no transfercase. Speaking from experience. Last I heard there was no slam dunk on getting the Hydro transfercase part to work...hence the H in the A340H.
My Chevy 350 circuit car radiator is not enough when pulling a load up a steep grade or running the AC on a 95+ degree day, but it is more of a fan issue than a radiator issue. The truck runs at a constant 200 degrees otherwise, and has been functioning solid since January of....2009 maybe?
I wasnt aware of the a340h issues, but I can see how it could be. I still haven't solidified staying with the auto, on one hand I really like not shifting gears, but on the other hand the ease of use in the swap and the fact that I might get 1 or 2 more MPG's is a plus. Either way I will sort it out between the A340F and the R150.
As for the starter, I have already bought a new one, I work in commercial sales for Autozone so all of the accessories / wearable items will be new. (That starter positioning was IMO the worst, but I guess on the ls/sc/gs there wasn't room for a trans mounted starter.)
I was wondering if it was necessary to use a 1uz fuel pump or if a Walbro 255 for the 3vz would do the job. I can get a good deal on one if so.
Last edited by Vudujoose; 09-21-2012 at 05:58 PM.
09-22-2012, 03:35 AM
#23
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Look at RMA's builds. He used a t100 trans and t-case and his swaps came out nice.
If you have access to a denso fuel pump for a good price, you're leaps ahead of a walbro. The denso will outlast your truck if you don't over heat it by running it on E all the time.
If you have access to a denso fuel pump for a good price, you're leaps ahead of a walbro. The denso will outlast your truck if you don't over heat it by running it on E all the time.
09-23-2012, 06:30 AM
#24
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**Edit later in the day**
After some more research I'm thinking that I would be better off with a W56 than the R150F due to gearing, it seems the W56 was built to accelerate larger trucks through first and second gear with a smoother third fourth and fifth gear for driving. the only reason I mention this is I will be stepping up to 38x15.50's on 18" wheels (sad to see my 15" wheels go) and I imagine the wheels and tire weight will be an issue much like they were with the 36x15.50's being pushed by this 3vze. This just seems to be a better idea. Off to pick n pull next weekend!!!
Last edited by Vudujoose; 09-23-2012 at 11:01 AM.
09-28-2012, 06:47 AM
#25
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Mine runs fine on the 3vze pump, I just bypassed the two speed relay and it runs on system voltage all the time.
Any A340 configuration will work except for the H, I have an A340E that came with the UZ and trimmed tailshaft and swapped speed sensor. Then it is simply a matter of pick and choose to get the right transfercase adapter/case and making a sandwich... I've got the key to the city on that, if you want information, PM me. The T100 is new to me, did they have to build an adapter or does it bolt up?
The problem with the W56 from my experience in high horsepower turbocharged cars (supra trans) is that they are super weak sauce. 2nd gear = death. However, the conversion to a W56 has been done to death on the SC400's, so there is good information out there about it.
Another to compare is the R154, the supra turbo trans compared to the w56 naturally aspirated supra trans. They have treated me mostly right, and I have put a ton of power through them.
Any A340 configuration will work except for the H, I have an A340E that came with the UZ and trimmed tailshaft and swapped speed sensor. Then it is simply a matter of pick and choose to get the right transfercase adapter/case and making a sandwich... I've got the key to the city on that, if you want information, PM me. The T100 is new to me, did they have to build an adapter or does it bolt up?
The problem with the W56 from my experience in high horsepower turbocharged cars (supra trans) is that they are super weak sauce. 2nd gear = death. However, the conversion to a W56 has been done to death on the SC400's, so there is good information out there about it.
Another to compare is the R154, the supra turbo trans compared to the w56 naturally aspirated supra trans. They have treated me mostly right, and I have put a ton of power through them.
Last edited by ExcessFC; 09-28-2012 at 06:55 AM.
09-28-2012, 06:49 AM
#26
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Point of interest however, mine does not shift properly on 33's and 4.88's even with an adjusted line pressure. The shift points are wrong if you are romping on it. (rev limiter at the top of 2nd and 3rd before a shift)
09-28-2012, 04:39 PM
#27
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Mine runs fine on the 3vze pump, I just bypassed the two speed relay and it runs on system voltage all the time.
Any A340 configuration will work except for the H, I have an A340E that came with the UZ and trimmed tailshaft and swapped speed sensor. Then it is simply a matter of pick and choose to get the right transfercase adapter/case and making a sandwich... I've got the key to the city on that, if you want information, PM me. The T100 is new to me, did they have to build an adapter or does it bolt up?
The problem with the W56 from my experience in high horsepower turbocharged cars (supra trans) is that they are super weak sauce. 2nd gear = death. However, the conversion to a W56 has been done to death on the SC400's, so there is good information out there about it.
Another to compare is the R154, the supra turbo trans compared to the w56 naturally aspirated supra trans. They have treated me mostly right, and I have put a ton of power through them.
Any A340 configuration will work except for the H, I have an A340E that came with the UZ and trimmed tailshaft and swapped speed sensor. Then it is simply a matter of pick and choose to get the right transfercase adapter/case and making a sandwich... I've got the key to the city on that, if you want information, PM me. The T100 is new to me, did they have to build an adapter or does it bolt up?
The problem with the W56 from my experience in high horsepower turbocharged cars (supra trans) is that they are super weak sauce. 2nd gear = death. However, the conversion to a W56 has been done to death on the SC400's, so there is good information out there about it.
Another to compare is the R154, the supra turbo trans compared to the w56 naturally aspirated supra trans. They have treated me mostly right, and I have put a ton of power through them.
I'm interested in using the a340e, mainly because it was built for the power and it's an auto. The only issue I have with this is I have no idea what to expect when I go hunting for a transfer case and what I'm going to need. (I'm not predominantly a 4x4 guy I mostly build cars) and how much needs to be taken off the tail shaft.
I also am not sure what is going to be needed to make my gear shifters work, since I can't use a auto transfer case how do I plan for the shifter?
Im good for a few things, rebuilding the engine, wiring, fabrication but I get really confused when the transfer case gets involved. I know what it does and how it works, but I don't understand how the shifter of an auto works nor do I understand why some auto's look like actual 5 speed shifters for the 4wd shifter and mine works like a normal auto trans shifter.
With the manual style shifter
Mine looks more like this except my shifter has a button on the top not the side.
These are just photos I googled (though both were found on yotatech.)
I would really like to retain the style it is now, is this possible while using the a340e?
I'm sorry I'm so retarded when it comes to auto's and 4x4, just kinda new to it.
09-28-2012, 08:42 PM
#28
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I would look for a 96-98 chain driven transfer case and a blown 4runner automatic to pull apart and swap the output shaft. Chewy's write up on doing the swap on uzswap.com is wonderful and comprehensive. While you are at it in a 4Runner, grab the shifter for the trans and t-case and the trim. Everything should bolt up super easy.
09-28-2012, 08:52 PM
#29
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I would look for a 96-98 chain driven transfer case and a blown 4runner automatic to pull apart and swap the output shaft. Chewy's write up on doing the swap on uzswap.com is wonderful and comprehensive. While you are at it in a 4Runner, grab the shifter for the trans and t-case and the trim. Everything should bolt up super easy.
Why not just use mine then? I have a chain driven A340H that can easily be pulled for the output shaft, as for the interior pieces mine are in great shape no need to try and find new stuff.
Isn't the chain driven super weak though?
If not it would seem that this would be the easiest and most cost effective way to do things.
09-29-2012, 06:31 AM
#30
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I would look for a 96-98 chain driven transfer case and a blown 4runner automatic to pull apart and swap the output shaft. Chewy's write up on doing the swap on uzswap.com is wonderful and comprehensive. While you are at it in a 4Runner, grab the shifter for the trans and t-case and the trim. Everything should bolt up super easy.
Why not just use mine then? I have a chain driven A340H that can easily be pulled for the output shaft, as for the interior pieces mine are in great shape no need to try and find new stuff.
Isn't the chain driven super weak though?
If not it would seem that this would be the easiest and most cost effective way to do things.
Isn't the chain driven super weak though?
If not it would seem that this would be the easiest and most cost effective way to do things.
You can't use the A340H transfer case. The A340H model is unique in that it's transfer case is "married" to it and they share ATF. I suppose you could take the transmission pump, input shaft and bellhousing from the Lexus A340e and put it on the A340H but I don't know how the electronics will interact.
If you want an automatic your best option is to use the A340e that came with the motor. That way you know the electronic communication will work properly. You have two transfer case options:
1. Get a Prerunner adapter from Inchworm Gear http://www.inchwormgear.com/products...er-adapter-kit
and use a standard 21 spline gear drive transfer case from any 84-95 4cyl Toyota 4x4 truck. (or 23 spline from a turbo but good luck finding one). These t-cases come in either top shift or forward shift configurations and the inchworm adapter will allow the use of either one. Top shift will require you to drill out your cupholder on the center console but is a simpler design. The forward shift will place the shifter where your current shifter is but you can't use your current shifter hardware. Just cut out the hole and get a shifter boot from a manual shift truck or any source for that matter. I have the t-case and all shifter stuff I can sell you if you need it (except the boot) for either top shift or forward shift. If you want dual transfer cases, 4-1 gearsets in the t-case or the strongest t-case option this is the route you need to go.
2. The 2nd option is to find a transmission and transfer case from a 93-97 T-100 truck. They used the A340F model transmission but kept the t-case drop on the right side where you need it. you will only use the 4wd adapter from the back of the tranny and the transfer case itself from the A340F so if it's bad it doesn't matter. As long as you don't mind the weaker chain driven transfer case this is probably a cheaper and easier option.
Yes you will need to cut the output of the Lexus A340e for either of the above options. You will also need a 30mm socket to get the output isolator bushing off the back of the tranny. Cutting at the correct location is simply a matter of measuring where it needs to be cut to get you the most spline you can in the adapter.
This pic looks like one of RMA's builds. That shifter setup is the standard stuff from a 96-2000 Truck/4Runner and I believe he used the #2 option on this one. I used the same setup on mine except with my dual transfer cases I just used the top shift instead of the forward shift t-case.
Hope this helps
Last edited by toyminator2000; 09-29-2012 at 06:46 AM.
09-29-2012, 12:40 PM
#32
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You can't use a 96-98 transfer case because they drop to the left and you truck requires a right side drop transfer case.
You can't use the A340H transfer case. The A340H model is unique in that it's transfer case is "married" to it and they share ATF. I suppose you could take the transmission pump, input shaft and bellhousing from the Lexus A340e and put it on the A340H but I don't know how the electronics will interact.
If you want an automatic your best option is to use the A340e that came with the motor. That way you know the electronic communication will work properly. You have two transfer case options:
1. Get a Prerunner adapter from Inchworm Gear http://www.inchwormgear.com/products...er-adapter-kit
and use a standard 21 spline gear drive transfer case from any 84-95 4cyl Toyota 4x4 truck. (or 23 spline from a turbo but good luck finding one). These t-cases come in either top shift or forward shift configurations and the inchworm adapter will allow the use of either one. Top shift will require you to drill out your cupholder on the center console but is a simpler design. The forward shift will place the shifter where your current shifter is but you can't use your current shifter hardware. Just cut out the hole and get a shifter boot from a manual shift truck or any source for that matter. I have the t-case and all shifter stuff I can sell you if you need it (except the boot) for either top shift or forward shift. If you want dual transfer cases, 4-1 gearsets in the t-case or the strongest t-case option this is the route you need to go.
2. The 2nd option is to find a transmission and transfer case from a 93-97 T-100 truck. They used the A340F model transmission but kept the t-case drop on the right side where you need it. you will only use the 4wd adapter from the back of the tranny and the transfer case itself from the A340F so if it's bad it doesn't matter. As long as you don't mind the weaker chain driven transfer case this is probably a cheaper and easier option.
Yes you will need to cut the output of the Lexus A340e for either of the above options. You will also need a 30mm socket to get the output isolator bushing off the back of the tranny. Cutting at the correct location is simply a matter of measuring where it needs to be cut to get you the most spline you can in the adapter.
This pic looks like one of RMA's builds. That shifter setup is the standard stuff from a 96-2000 Truck/4Runner and I believe he used the #2 option on this one. I used the same setup on mine except with my dual transfer cases I just used the top shift instead of the forward shift t-case.
Hope this helps
You can't use the A340H transfer case. The A340H model is unique in that it's transfer case is "married" to it and they share ATF. I suppose you could take the transmission pump, input shaft and bellhousing from the Lexus A340e and put it on the A340H but I don't know how the electronics will interact.
If you want an automatic your best option is to use the A340e that came with the motor. That way you know the electronic communication will work properly. You have two transfer case options:
1. Get a Prerunner adapter from Inchworm Gear http://www.inchwormgear.com/products...er-adapter-kit
and use a standard 21 spline gear drive transfer case from any 84-95 4cyl Toyota 4x4 truck. (or 23 spline from a turbo but good luck finding one). These t-cases come in either top shift or forward shift configurations and the inchworm adapter will allow the use of either one. Top shift will require you to drill out your cupholder on the center console but is a simpler design. The forward shift will place the shifter where your current shifter is but you can't use your current shifter hardware. Just cut out the hole and get a shifter boot from a manual shift truck or any source for that matter. I have the t-case and all shifter stuff I can sell you if you need it (except the boot) for either top shift or forward shift. If you want dual transfer cases, 4-1 gearsets in the t-case or the strongest t-case option this is the route you need to go.
2. The 2nd option is to find a transmission and transfer case from a 93-97 T-100 truck. They used the A340F model transmission but kept the t-case drop on the right side where you need it. you will only use the 4wd adapter from the back of the tranny and the transfer case itself from the A340F so if it's bad it doesn't matter. As long as you don't mind the weaker chain driven transfer case this is probably a cheaper and easier option.
Yes you will need to cut the output of the Lexus A340e for either of the above options. You will also need a 30mm socket to get the output isolator bushing off the back of the tranny. Cutting at the correct location is simply a matter of measuring where it needs to be cut to get you the most spline you can in the adapter.
This pic looks like one of RMA's builds. That shifter setup is the standard stuff from a 96-2000 Truck/4Runner and I believe he used the #2 option on this one. I used the same setup on mine except with my dual transfer cases I just used the top shift instead of the forward shift t-case.
Hope this helps
Good call, wasn't aware it wasn't a "divorced" T-case. I will probably go with the second option to keep cost down and get it going but eventually grab the adapter and go to a gear driven case.
I appreciate the info, I'm not opposed to searching It just seems as though all of the info is scattered among many sites from lextreme to 1uzfe.com to here and Pirate 4x4. This is the most active Toyota specific forum and I enjoy the people here.
10-04-2012, 05:53 PM
#34
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Didn't Downey produce 1uz engine mounts for the 4runner at one time?
10-04-2012, 08:05 PM
#35
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10-05-2012, 02:54 AM
#36
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I think the reason custom fabbed mounts are needed is because the swap is highly situational. IFS or SAS , amount of body lift, trans and transfer case used, etc.
I think I'm going to use the plans that Cebby hosted of Toyminators mounts. I had a few ideas on how I was going to make my mounts but I like his mounts better. Very clean.
10-06-2012, 10:50 AM
#37
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Exactly right, too many configurations to choose from to have prefab mounts made IMO. The mounts are pretty easy considering, I used some basic math and precise measurements to get my angles and lengths down properly and just fabbed them up with solid materials and the OE 3.slow mounts.
The other thing you see from time to time is a front diff spacer to lower the pumpkin down a bit. I have a 2" body and didn't adjust my drivetrain at all, and it is pretty much on the firewall. It looks like you already have that 3" body, which will make your mounts even easier.
Search through the Australian and New Zealand forums, lots of good information there, but remember they start with diesels usually.
The other thing you see from time to time is a front diff spacer to lower the pumpkin down a bit. I have a 2" body and didn't adjust my drivetrain at all, and it is pretty much on the firewall. It looks like you already have that 3" body, which will make your mounts even easier.
Search through the Australian and New Zealand forums, lots of good information there, but remember they start with diesels usually.
10-06-2012, 07:07 PM
#38
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Exactly right, too many configurations to choose from to have prefab mounts made IMO. The mounts are pretty easy considering, I used some basic math and precise measurements to get my angles and lengths down properly and just fabbed them up with solid materials and the OE 3.slow mounts.
The other thing you see from time to time is a front diff spacer to lower the pumpkin down a bit. I have a 2" body and didn't adjust my drivetrain at all, and it is pretty much on the firewall. It looks like you already have that 3" body, which will make your mounts even easier.
Search through the Australian and New Zealand forums, lots of good information there, but remember they start with diesels usually.
The other thing you see from time to time is a front diff spacer to lower the pumpkin down a bit. I have a 2" body and didn't adjust my drivetrain at all, and it is pretty much on the firewall. It looks like you already have that 3" body, which will make your mounts even easier.
Search through the Australian and New Zealand forums, lots of good information there, but remember they start with diesels usually.
I'm really taking my time on this, as I am in no hurry to screw anything up!
11-22-2012, 05:12 PM
#40
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I also have a question about the set up on the whole thing. I have been thinking of doing this swap and my biggest concern is if I have to get a piggy back or stand alone ECU or can I do it with just the stock ECU?
