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It is i saw it.i like the transmount you made im also assuming the stock one wont line up fingers crossed since mine was auto its a little different even tho one i fab up is in my plans
a lil update on that if you ever end up buying that ebay bell housing you will need the pre 96 trans the input is too long to work unfortunately and it is possible to drop the trans in as long as the motor is able to slide all the way foward and on a angle just to let you and whoever know
Last edited by boogiewoogie; 10-30-2016 at 11:07 AM.
a lil update on that if you ever end up buying that ebay bell housing you will need the pre 96 trans the input is too long to work unfortunately and it is possible to drop the trans in as long as the motor is able to slide all the way foward and on a angle just to let you and whoever know
I'm confused as to what your talking about with the bellhousing?
if your using an automatic I would assume the combination of tranny to bellhousing would be different.
I'm confused as to what your talking about with the bellhousing?
if your using an automatic I would assume the combination of tranny to bellhousing would be different.
dunno if you remember me saying i bought the ebay 150f /r151f to 1jz 2jz bell housing it will not fit the newer version r150f with the 3/4" longer input shaft .not doing auto kinda wish i was but i thought about it being a pita so i didnt go for it.actually have to go out tomo and buy a new trans found a few for relatively cheap kinda mad to go shell out more money on it. I was curious on your crossmember if it fit with the swap but you were auto too as i was also.so dont know how itll work well see maybe the aftermarket ones will work ill be running single case i think but hopefully duals in the future well see how it goes i found a tuner for my megasquirt that will install cause some of the inputs i have no idea how to run for example like the vsvs when they get activated and the programing side of it.i need to make a thread im procrastinating. i want more people to do it for expansion purposes.
Last edited by boogiewoogie; 10-30-2016 at 04:11 PM.
dunno if you remember me saying i bought the ebay 150f /r151f to 1jz 2jz bell housing it will not fit the newer version r150f with the 3/4" longer input shaft .not doing auto kinda wish i was but i thought about it being a pita so i didnt go for it.actually have to go out tomo and buy a new trans found a few for relatively cheap kinda mad to go shell out more money on it. I was curious on your crossmember if it fit with the swap but you were auto too so dont know how itll work well see maybe the aftermarket ones will work ill be running single case i think but hopefully duals in the future well see how it goes i found a tuner for my megasquirt that will install cause some of the inputs i have no idea how to run for example like the vsvs when they get activated and the programing side of it.i need to make a thread im procrastinating. i want more people to do it for expansion purposes.
mine was Manual when it was stock.
The mount for the crossmember off the Tcasr was pushed to far back for it to linew up.
I'm not really sure what exact bell housing you are referencing. All you need is a Toyota bellhousing for R154. The trannys you mentioned above have the casing. Only thing different are the guts.
PM me if you want, can give my # to help you little easier rather then back and fourth here
so it has been awhile, not sure if anyone still follow's. Runner is great although don't really drive it too much. Really it just sits in my garage every year during the cold months. Top and doors haven't been on it in probly 5 years now. This coming season I do have aspirations to redo it again. Would like to straighten the body out cover some rust and make it look good again. Honestly everytime it hits a trail and I'm hard on it in the woods or the street it breaks. Which brings me to my next post. Since doing the swap I have gone through I think 4 rear end ring&opinion. Luckily I had a pile of spares but no more. So I do not want to do 1 tons because of the width and with time and money to cut one done makes it not the best option. A while back but currently unable to find it not sure if it was on here or private.
A guy had taking a older fj40 rear end, cut the tubes on it then welded axle tubes from a 87+ Toyota and fitted it with 3rd gen runner axles shafts. Has anyone seen anything similar to this?
The fj40 and 60's rear end carry a bigger R&P while still excepting the 1st,2nd, and 3rd gen axle shafts. The older LC's axles are off center with the diff which is why you can not just drop them in place as is
Plenty of rain this year that's for sure, At this moment started finishing my garage with an exhaust fan,more lights and finally some insulation and drywall so the winter doesn't have to be a slow time for me in the garage and will help keep the moral up during the summer lol. Either way I was digging around through the links and then some how found an old screenshot on my ipad. Must of known I wanted to save the info, Screenshot had the web address luckily. https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/toyo...rear-axle.html
I wanted to start a garage build this summer, but MD climate changed to rain forest, so that is delayed.
I was following the threads i linked for you, there is some good tech in there. I just have a full float 8" (Won-Ton?) rear i cobbled together has held up well.
lol the rain was pretty brutal this year. Had worse flooding just from the rain storms then we've had from past hurricane's......minus the tidal flooding obviously
I will read through the links, fun seeing other ideas that work out.
Not much new with the Runner. Been collecting parts for a future "Renovation". For now this was easy and quick enough to add in. Has no benefit other then now it sounds cool at a rev limit I want and can spit flames.
The included directions are trash and also in Japanese. The directions show you actually cutting the NE+ wire I think it was and routing only to the rev box. In reality all that needs to be done is spliced in.
Black wire= Ground
Red wire=Power (I tied into 12v ecu power)
Green wire= NE+ (Black wire white stripe on ECU)
Yellow wire=IGF (Yellow wire green stripe on ECU)
White wire= For clutch or hand brake(mine not used)
My connections were soldered then coated with liquid electrical tape. Put a fan on it for 30 mins to cure faster, it's been pretty humid here. Then wrapped each with actual electrical tape.
As for parts, I have a modded stock supra clutch to finally get rid of the 6Puc that is currently in thier which I hate.
Then recently made a morning trip to New Jersey to pick up these two 1997 Fj80 front and rear axles with factory Elockers. Rear axle will eventually get cut,chopped and diff centered. Probly keep them full width.
Also slowly looking for a deal on F150 springs to put on front and rear and ditch the trail gear springs. Was contemplating putting Chevy springs on but honestly I would rather not weld on the frame and have to go through the POR 15 process to repaint the work. The Ford springs will fit in the current trail gear spring mounts.
While winching a tree up the hill that fell to use for firewood 4runner had a little accident. After seeing what happend I guess I kind of deserved it. After idling and occasional revving for an hour straight to keep the winch from killing the battery my bottom radiator line blew apart. Didn't overheat just slipped 9ut the clamp.
it had to have been the last scrap piece I had of the aluminum pipe for me to use that. As you can see it was just barely long enough. It did last a couple years as it was but still.
instead of putting the flat ends back together I decided to do it a little more correct this time. Went to Home Depot and bought a basic electrical crimping tool. With that was able to put a very nice bead on the ends which will ensure it wont slide through the clamp again.
clamped all back together, the piece that blew connecting the 90's I extended about a 1 1/2". Orderd a 3foot piece off Amazon.
winch pretty much killed the battery, backed the 2nd gen 1j down to jump start it
Had a somewhat fall morning which motivated me to start working on this again. Been driving a good bit this summer. Wanted to start the fj80 axle swap but wanted to get rid of the fuel cell in the hack first and swap it for the F150 gas tank. Was against this for a long time just cause I'm anti Ford anything but if it works and fits (somewhat) then whatever. When i had the body off and was working on frame i cut the factory rear crossmember out and just added this one. At the time i was thinking maybe i would add a rear winch......very glad i neve did that. Nonetheless it had to come out When this is done most likely be doing a light prep and paint again underneath. Crossmember gone Tank barely fits between top shackle bolts which suprised me since others who have done this swap did not have the same issue. This was a very very rough fit. Sure could go a hair higher but probly end up modifying the corners of the tank
I mounted the tank using center of shock mount but once up i wanted to scoot back just a hair away from the axle. So i just bolted some tabs to the shock mount and moved the tank back 1.250"
not fully sure what but I did not wanna weld something to the top of my frame that I couldn't easily remove. So I found these M10 bolt holes on the body mount. Used some M8 bolts and went from thier. The main piece a cut, bent and tacked on the bench.
so when I welded the piece out on bench I was very careful to take my time and not rush to avoid having the metal pull and warp from the heat. Would do a half inch of weld on opposing sides and let it sit for about 10mins to cool off. Apparently somewhere that wasn't enough. The piece pulled its self up a good bit and put my bolt holes out of alignment. Small amount of boring bolt holes and then pinned the piece in a tree and a little bit of heat with high loft Jack and was able to get it back to fitting and clearing tailgate support. Not as much room as it originally had but does clear. Tank is up for now, i did make some top straps out of 1.5inchx1/8" aluminum flat bar that came out decent. Dont have pices at moment. Some of the fuel line pieces are ordered. For the fill gonna use 1.750inch aluminum tube that I'll bend .
This just for reference for me or who ever later down the road. But atleast for my 1984 22r 4runner the ohms are not 90ohms empty and 0 ohms full. Nor is the Ford assembly I have opposite, it does work but not really with the factory gauge.
so I purchased a fuel level sending unit for a 22r 2wd overseas hilux. For whatever reason they are all over ebay brand new for $40 but finding one model specific for anything here in U.S 4runner or pickup is impossible brand new for a reasonable price.
The level sender I recieved is 110 Ohms empty and 15 ohms full. After digging around, My Runner factory gauge reads 110 empty and 3 ohms is full. So with this unit for a hilux at full, gauge shows 3/4 tank. I did tweak the bracket a hair and was able to get it at 7/8 tank full which is good enough for me.
Now the Ford assembly.
Just as a reference I have 30 ohms at empty
163ohms at full. I temporary plugged it into the Runner and the full is empty and empty is full that I have seen people mention just doesn't work.
1992 F150 5.0L V8
I'm late to the game and haven't read the whole thread yet, what's the reason for doing the f150 tank? Larger capacity? Lower profile?
I saw you're planning to swap to FJ axles... Haven't done it myself, but I've read an 8.8 swap is near bolt-in and should hold up to your power, if you can stomach a ford axle...
I'm late to the game and haven't read the whole thread yet, what's the reason for doing the f150 tank? Larger capacity? Lower profile?
I saw you're planning to swap to FJ axles... Haven't done it myself, but I've read an 8.8 swap is near bolt-in and should hold up to your power, if you can stomach a ford axle...
When I did the motor swap I had put a fuel cell with external fuel pump in the bed behind back seats.
Really tired of hearing the fuel pump screaming constantly and want my bed space back. Those are the main reasons for the tank swap.
As for the ford thing, I spent months debating to do this swap or not strictly cause it is Ford design. No surprise the fuel pump was so simple yet such a pain to install properly. My first experience with domestic quick connects lol and already cussing those things.
I'll put myself through the little bit extra work and make the fj80 axles work.
I have a 85 pickup that just recieved a new tank and components. Was able to take the old one and whole saw the sending unit flange from it for the ford tank. Not very pretty but It'll work just fine. I used a blue brazing rod to adhere it to the ford tank. The blue rod is prtty expensive because of it's high silver content and takes a decent amount of heat. Fortunately found one laying around at work. Running low on paint options in the garage since i just cleaned everything out during the summer. Did some more tweaking on the sending unit and was able to the correct amount of ohms out of it. Works perfectly now for Full to empty. I also removed the float arm from the ford pump and attached to this sending unit. Had to do minor bending to the arm for it to work.
From the heat of brazing the flange to the new tank the threads for the sending unit became a little funky from all the trash that was cooked off of it. So i took a bottom tap and cleaned the threads out then went to hardware store and picked up some new stainless screws for it. The thread on the factory flange is M4x.70 for any future reference.;
This pic is a little old now but all i have before the tank is mounted. The plug for the pump and sending unit i ended up cutting off and making two seperat plugs for each.
10-30-2016, 11:05 AM
