Vasinvictor's budget 98/3.4/Auto into 95/3.0/Auto
02-14-2012, 05:02 PM
#41
Registered User
Assuming the engine ran fine before it's accident, I would look at everything you touched in the fuel system before you start tearing into the top end of the motor chasing computer controlled parts (which you didn't touch).
Off the top of my head:
Off the top of my head:
- Fuel supply hard line (from filter) to the soft line on the engine
- Supply line at the banjo bolt going into the fuel rail
- Return line coming off the fuel rail
- Return line connecting back to hard line (on the 4Runner's body)
02-14-2012, 07:29 PM
#42
OK, I was trying to power 1 leg of the COR off IH1 22, which is for a manual trans truck. I simply unpinned, and repinned into IH1 15, which is for the for an auto. I'm still not quite clear on how that made the fuel pump constantly run and cause the injector pulsing. Turned key and it all sounds good. I'll try to crank it tomorrow in the daylight.
TLDR; Auto guys for COR wiring use IH1 15 (for auto) , rather than IH1 22 (for manual)
TLDR; Auto guys for COR wiring use IH1 15 (for auto) , rather than IH1 22 (for manual)
02-21-2012, 09:40 AM
#46
OK, motor cranks over finally. I have spark, verfied by taking 1 plug out and cranking motor. I have raw gas running out of the manifolds and spilling out on to the ground. It seems like a LOT of fuel. Spark+too much fuel=not running.
02-21-2012, 10:29 AM
#48
I got it to hit a time or two. I pulled the EFI fuse and cranked it until the gas quits dripping from the manifold. I put the EFI fuse back in, and immediately upon cranking it'll hit a couple times before pouring gas again. Yall think stuck injetors? Motor did sit for a couple years. The only problem I have with this theory is that when I unbolted the fuel line while in the donor, it still had fuel pressure at the banjo bolt. If injectors were stuck open, it should not have had any pressure, right?
Last edited by vasinvictor; 02-21-2012 at 10:35 AM.
02-21-2012, 11:52 AM
#49
I took the plenum off, injector rails, and pulled each fuel injector. I couldn't blow through any of them. They all looked like good clean injectors.
As a side note, what pleasure to work on this motor compared to the 3vz. It was a nightmare to do anything on the 3.0.
As a side note, what pleasure to work on this motor compared to the 3vz. It was a nightmare to do anything on the 3.0.
02-27-2012, 08:05 AM
#52
Rolled the doner over so I could get to the exhaust and crossmember
Redrill the driveshaft flange to match the newer transfer case output flange. Be sure to mark the driveshaft and flange so they go back on in correct phase. A good bit and some cutting oil is necessary for this.
1/4" plate for transfer case adapter. I dont' have a picture, but I drilled 4 holes in this plate on one end to bolt to the stock crossmember, and 2 holes in the other end to bolt to the doner's crossmember. Bolt on affair, so that it's easily removeable when I get my adapter and gear driven case ready to install.
Here's a picture of the adapter installed. You can see that it bolts on top of the stock crossmember, and to the bottom of the doner's crossmember. This is for short term use, but I suspect it'd work fine long term too.
And the driveshaft bolted back up
I screwed the console down using a self tapping metal screw with a washer on top. It feels really solid. I still have to wire in the shift lock release. I have the wires identified, just haven't cut and spliced yet. I didn't worry about reinstalling the transfer case lever b/c it wouldn't be functional anyway.
I reinstalled the front bumper (with obvious modification) using 4crawlers bumper brackets that I got with the body lift.
This morning I drove it down to the exhaust shop. Since I am running the '98 transfer case which is driver side drop, it's a very tight fit for exhaust to snake around it. I won't be able to fit a cat converter in there. I am mainly interested in getting the o2 sensor plumbed in. It runs pretty good in open loop, but once it's warmed up and starts going closed, it runs like poo. I'm hoping that getting the o2 sensors installed will help that.
Redrill the driveshaft flange to match the newer transfer case output flange. Be sure to mark the driveshaft and flange so they go back on in correct phase. A good bit and some cutting oil is necessary for this.
1/4" plate for transfer case adapter. I dont' have a picture, but I drilled 4 holes in this plate on one end to bolt to the stock crossmember, and 2 holes in the other end to bolt to the doner's crossmember. Bolt on affair, so that it's easily removeable when I get my adapter and gear driven case ready to install.
Here's a picture of the adapter installed. You can see that it bolts on top of the stock crossmember, and to the bottom of the doner's crossmember. This is for short term use, but I suspect it'd work fine long term too.
And the driveshaft bolted back up
I screwed the console down using a self tapping metal screw with a washer on top. It feels really solid. I still have to wire in the shift lock release. I have the wires identified, just haven't cut and spliced yet. I didn't worry about reinstalling the transfer case lever b/c it wouldn't be functional anyway.
I reinstalled the front bumper (with obvious modification) using 4crawlers bumper brackets that I got with the body lift.
This morning I drove it down to the exhaust shop. Since I am running the '98 transfer case which is driver side drop, it's a very tight fit for exhaust to snake around it. I won't be able to fit a cat converter in there. I am mainly interested in getting the o2 sensor plumbed in. It runs pretty good in open loop, but once it's warmed up and starts going closed, it runs like poo. I'm hoping that getting the o2 sensors installed will help that.
03-01-2012, 01:28 PM
#53
And here's what 30 mins and $30 of exhaust work gets ya. There wasn't room for the cat, so I deleted it for now. I'm using both o2 sensors and stock 3.0 muffler. It sounds nice and throaty at idle. I had to extended the o2 sensor leads about 6" and 12".
I got the exhaust done a couple days ago and have been extremely frustrated that it still ran like crap. I started testing every thing under the hood, all checking out fine. My latest effort was to finally wire up the ODBII connector so I could use a scan tool to try to diagnose it. While wiring it up I found that I never hooked up B+ (e12 23 w-l) to the ECM! I've checked my wiring 20 times, but never caught this. Hooked it up, and she runs BEAUTIFULLY!!! I'll get a driveby video soon, but for now yall can find me tearin' up the streets. (I'm still just 2wd)
I still need to install adapter and transfer case, do the tacho mod, get the speedo working, and make sure the A/C and cruise control are working properly.
I got the exhaust done a couple days ago and have been extremely frustrated that it still ran like crap. I started testing every thing under the hood, all checking out fine. My latest effort was to finally wire up the ODBII connector so I could use a scan tool to try to diagnose it. While wiring it up I found that I never hooked up B+ (e12 23 w-l) to the ECM! I've checked my wiring 20 times, but never caught this. Hooked it up, and she runs BEAUTIFULLY!!! I'll get a driveby video soon, but for now yall can find me tearin' up the streets. (I'm still just 2wd)
I still need to install adapter and transfer case, do the tacho mod, get the speedo working, and make sure the A/C and cruise control are working properly.
Last edited by vasinvictor; 03-01-2012 at 01:38 PM.
03-07-2012, 07:43 PM
#55
I got the AC going today!
All my efforts to work around the charged compressor while motor swapping paid off. It's super easy, once you know how to do it
I used the 3.0 compressor and swapped the 3.4 pulley on to it (for the serpentine belt, the 3.0 pulley is a v-belt) and retained the stock A/C amplifier. I left the stock A/C system COMPLETELY UNTOUCHED, except for: splice the "A/C amplifier to Magnetic clutch" (IH2 15) wire into the new harness (II3 25). Off this spliced wire, run a new wire directly to AC1 on the new ECU (E12 16) AND, if your recipient originally had an auto trans, you will have a Pink wire at IH1 19 that originally went to and A/C temp cut switch. GROUND THIS. Do not hook up the original "A/C amplifier to ECM ACT" wire. Leave it unhooked.
I used several of UKRunner and Hamish's posts to gather this info. Just reposting it for more search references for future swappers. I was frustrated it wasn't working until I found the little nugget about grounding the a/c temp cut switch. I'll be working on the cruise control next, and by contrast it looks a lot easier. There are identical matches for all the wires in the old and new harness. I hope it's plug and play.
edit: edit: "How to: A/C for your 3.4 swap" is located here
All my efforts to work around the charged compressor while motor swapping paid off. It's super easy, once you know how to do it
I used the 3.0 compressor and swapped the 3.4 pulley on to it (for the serpentine belt, the 3.0 pulley is a v-belt) and retained the stock A/C amplifier. I left the stock A/C system COMPLETELY UNTOUCHED, except for: splice the "A/C amplifier to Magnetic clutch" (IH2 15) wire into the new harness (II3 25). Off this spliced wire, run a new wire directly to AC1 on the new ECU (E12 16) AND, if your recipient originally had an auto trans, you will have a Pink wire at IH1 19 that originally went to and A/C temp cut switch. GROUND THIS. Do not hook up the original "A/C amplifier to ECM ACT" wire. Leave it unhooked. I used several of UKRunner and Hamish's posts to gather this info. Just reposting it for more search references for future swappers. I was frustrated it wasn't working until I found the little nugget about grounding the a/c temp cut switch. I'll be working on the cruise control next, and by contrast it looks a lot easier. There are identical matches for all the wires in the old and new harness. I hope it's plug and play.
edit: edit: "How to: A/C for your 3.4 swap" is located here
Last edited by vasinvictor; 04-05-2012 at 08:07 AM.
03-07-2012, 08:33 PM
#56
Registered User
I got the AC going today. All my efforts to work around the charged compressor while motor swapping paid off. It's super easy, once you know how to do it I used the 3.0 compressor and swapped the 3.4 pulley on to it (for the serpentine belt, the 3.0 pulley is a v-belt) and retained the stock A/C amplifier. I left the stock A/C system COMPLETELY UNTOUCHED, except for: splice the "A/C amplifier to Magnetic clutch" (IH2 15) wire into the new harness (II3 25). AND, if your recipient originally had an auto trans, you will have a Pink wire at IH1 19 that originally went to and A/C temp cut switch. GROUND THIS. Do not hook up the original "A/C amplifier to ECM ACT" wire. Leave it unhooked.
I used several of UKRunner and Hamish's posts to gather this info. Just reposting it for more search references for future swappers. I was frustrated it wasn't working until I found the little nugget about grounding the a/c temp cut switch. I'll be working on the cruise control next, and by contrast it looks a lot easier. There are identical matches for all the wires in the old and new harness. I hope it's plug and play.
I used the 3.0 compressor and swapped the 3.4 pulley on to it (for the serpentine belt, the 3.0 pulley is a v-belt) and retained the stock A/C amplifier. I left the stock A/C system COMPLETELY UNTOUCHED, except for: splice the "A/C amplifier to Magnetic clutch" (IH2 15) wire into the new harness (II3 25). AND, if your recipient originally had an auto trans, you will have a Pink wire at IH1 19 that originally went to and A/C temp cut switch. GROUND THIS. Do not hook up the original "A/C amplifier to ECM ACT" wire. Leave it unhooked. I used several of UKRunner and Hamish's posts to gather this info. Just reposting it for more search references for future swappers. I was frustrated it wasn't working until I found the little nugget about grounding the a/c temp cut switch. I'll be working on the cruise control next, and by contrast it looks a lot easier. There are identical matches for all the wires in the old and new harness. I hope it's plug and play.
, did a detailed write up with some great pics to add to the stickies. I have a feeling that as summer approaches we will get 100 posts about AC very soon.
03-07-2012, 08:51 PM
#57
I'll get to work on it. I would love to contribute in some way.
edit: "How to: A/C for your 3.4 swap" is located here
edit: "How to: A/C for your 3.4 swap" is located here
Last edited by vasinvictor; 04-05-2012 at 08:06 AM.
03-08-2012, 10:26 AM
#59
Registered User
Did you do anything to retain the A/C idle-up functionality?
I've read a few swaps (I don't remember which ones) where its been done using either the 3.0 AC VSV (tied into the 3.0 A/C amp or the ECU somehow) or the 3.4 ECU to directly increase engine speed.
Either way, congrats on getting the A/C up and running.
I've read a few swaps (I don't remember which ones) where its been done using either the 3.0 AC VSV (tied into the 3.0 A/C amp or the ECU somehow) or the 3.4 ECU to directly increase engine speed.
Either way, congrats on getting the A/C up and running.
03-08-2012, 11:06 AM
#60
I haven't done that. When my compressor comes on, the engine RPMs do drop, but doesn't stall out. The 3.4 ECU doesn't seem to compensate for it like I've read other places. I will wire that up and report back and try to include it in my upcoming "sticky post". For now I'd say if you didn't wire it up, you'd probably be fine.
