My truck had a heart transplant
05-25-2008, 07:27 PM
#21
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Speedo cable
The speedometer cable is now at least a few inches too short and in a different spot than it is on the old A340H, so I got this extension from Marlin Crawler. You can get custom lengths made for your application.
Edit: found a picture of the old tranny; speedo cable gears are in about the same location.
Edit: found a picture of the old tranny; speedo cable gears are in about the same location.
Last edited by cadman; 05-27-2008 at 01:47 PM. Reason: correction
05-25-2008, 07:30 PM
#22
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Your gonna love the power difference. Mine with the dual cases and all was simply amazing when I took it out this weekend for the first time.
Looks great and real clean
Looks great and real clean
05-25-2008, 08:10 PM
#24
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Ecm
Got the ECM mounted using one of the 3.0 mounts and it doesn't interfer with the kick panel. If you are using the ORS harness, I recommend removing the heater blower rather than shove everything up there and hope for the best. There is more than enough room for the 3.4 ECM and ORS harness and with the heater blower out of the way you can see what you are doing and get the wiring neatly arranged.
I drilled a hole for a M6 rivet nut and for the dog leg on the ECM mount. The hole for the dog leg isn't in the picture, but the slot below and slightly right of the hole circled in red is what you want to achieve. There is plenty of play in the 3.0 ECM mount, so all you need to make is a hole and not a slot.
An adhesive rubber pad on the ECM helps prevent any minute rattles. My truck didn't come with AC so I routed the starter trigger wire and transfer case switch wire through the firewall where the AC lines would go. My 3.4 engine has the AC compressor, so if I some day decide to hook up the AC I'll just cut a hole nearby and move those two leads.
I drilled a hole for a M6 rivet nut and for the dog leg on the ECM mount. The hole for the dog leg isn't in the picture, but the slot below and slightly right of the hole circled in red is what you want to achieve. There is plenty of play in the 3.0 ECM mount, so all you need to make is a hole and not a slot.
An adhesive rubber pad on the ECM helps prevent any minute rattles. My truck didn't come with AC so I routed the starter trigger wire and transfer case switch wire through the firewall where the AC lines would go. My 3.4 engine has the AC compressor, so if I some day decide to hook up the AC I'll just cut a hole nearby and move those two leads.
05-25-2008, 08:56 PM
#27
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Fuel lines
The ORS kit has a length of 1/4" fuel hose that you run along the firewall and back to the stock 3.0 hard line. I bent the hard line up the firewall, installed a rivet nut, and reused the clamp that held it on the apron.
For the fuel line, I removed the bolt and rotated the entire line so it was now facing the opposite direction. I replaced the bolt with new gaskets, positioned it, then carefully torqued the bolt. To help support the fuel line I bought a 3/16" thick x 12" long 1018 bar and cut, bent, drilled and tapped it and bolted it to an open M8 hole on the side of the head. I reused the clamp from the hard line to secure the fuel line to the support.
Finally, I hooked it up with the ORS adapter and clamped it to the skirt.
For the fuel line, I removed the bolt and rotated the entire line so it was now facing the opposite direction. I replaced the bolt with new gaskets, positioned it, then carefully torqued the bolt. To help support the fuel line I bought a 3/16" thick x 12" long 1018 bar and cut, bent, drilled and tapped it and bolted it to an open M8 hole on the side of the head. I reused the clamp from the hard line to secure the fuel line to the support.
Finally, I hooked it up with the ORS adapter and clamped it to the skirt.
05-25-2008, 09:54 PM
#28
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I bought the 1" body lift from 4Crawler. I was never a fan of body lifts, but before the 3.4 swap I was going to either drop in a reman 3.0 or rebuild the engine and I bought Downey headers for it in the meantime. After hearing stories about the tight fit to the passenger side floorbard and finally seeing pictures of how close the fuel lines get to the headers, I decided to get the lift. I also got the bumper and radiator brackets.
05-25-2008, 10:20 PM
#29
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Hey Cadman I was wondering why you chose that name Cadman? The reason I ask is because thats was my great great grandfathers name and now my middle name.
05-25-2008, 10:21 PM
#30
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and just went ahead with the 3.4 swap.
05-25-2008, 10:24 PM
#31
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It takes time but it will be worth it
Keep it up it looks clean as hell
05-25-2008, 10:35 PM
#32
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So it's also a real name? You and your great, great grandfather definitely have a unique name. Do you know any history about it?
05-25-2008, 10:53 PM
#33
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It definetly is not a highly used name although Im reminded of it after every time I see one of those cement trucks.Its cool to have such a unique middle and last name (Stokke pronounced Sto-key) Not many people have either name.
Thats cool your a CAD designer I wish I was better with that stuff as it could come in real handy. I took a class on it in high shcool but those years sucked so I didnt really learn a whole lot from it.
Keep up the work on yours and cant wait to see it finished
05-26-2008, 06:34 PM
#34
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harnes, cables
The bellows on the engine harness are now sealed and ready. At first I used a urethane adhesive, but it turned out it wasn't flexible enough and peeled from the rubber where I joined the two bellows. I removed the urethane and used black silicone sealer instead. I flexs with the rubber, not that there will ever be that much movement, but in the interest of longevity thats what you want. I thought I could do a better job of applying the sealer cosmetically, but it doesn't look all that bad.
The upper cable is the starter trigger wire and the lower goes to the transfer case switch. Besides sealing where the cover passes through the grommet, I stuck the sealer nozzle into the covers and filled them up where the wires also pass through the grommet. The transfer case cable will head downwards so water won't migrate along it towards the firewall. I'll loop the starter wire downwards before routing it up to the top of the firewall and towards the driver side. I'll also use the 3.4 harness retainer to keep the bellows from rubbing on the fender skirt.
The 3.4 & 3.0 alternator cables need to be spliced together. Instead of cutting and soldering or crimping them, I just bolted them together and wrapped them with self vulcanizing tape. This tape is amazing. I had to cut through a previous splice I made and I had about 4 wraps of this tape at the splice. After curing, it was a solid piece of rubber, no layers of tape. Neat stuff, but a little tricky to use because you have to stretch it about 50% of it's length while you use it.
Anyways, If I need to disconnect here for some reason all I have to do is cut off the rubber at the connection.
I need to splice the 3.0 alternator wires to the 3.4 alternator wires at the battery harness and splice the starter trigger wire from the ORS harness at this point too. I don't have any 4 pin male connectors that will work with the connector on the battery harness, or any other 4 pin matching male & female connectors, so I'll start looking through some industrial electrical catalogs and see what I can find. I don't want to just solder the wires together.
The upper cable is the starter trigger wire and the lower goes to the transfer case switch. Besides sealing where the cover passes through the grommet, I stuck the sealer nozzle into the covers and filled them up where the wires also pass through the grommet. The transfer case cable will head downwards so water won't migrate along it towards the firewall. I'll loop the starter wire downwards before routing it up to the top of the firewall and towards the driver side. I'll also use the 3.4 harness retainer to keep the bellows from rubbing on the fender skirt.
The 3.4 & 3.0 alternator cables need to be spliced together. Instead of cutting and soldering or crimping them, I just bolted them together and wrapped them with self vulcanizing tape. This tape is amazing. I had to cut through a previous splice I made and I had about 4 wraps of this tape at the splice. After curing, it was a solid piece of rubber, no layers of tape. Neat stuff, but a little tricky to use because you have to stretch it about 50% of it's length while you use it.
Anyways, If I need to disconnect here for some reason all I have to do is cut off the rubber at the connection.
I need to splice the 3.0 alternator wires to the 3.4 alternator wires at the battery harness and splice the starter trigger wire from the ORS harness at this point too. I don't have any 4 pin male connectors that will work with the connector on the battery harness, or any other 4 pin matching male & female connectors, so I'll start looking through some industrial electrical catalogs and see what I can find. I don't want to just solder the wires together.
05-27-2008, 12:09 PM
#35
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In it's unconstrained condition, the hole patterns are offset 2.190" towards the rear. The engine isolators are also squeezed at the front.
I'm going to take a 3/4" plate and drill/tap the hole patterns to temporarily mount the tranny. In the picture the transfer case is raised about 3/4" and I think that looks correct. I'm also going to shift the hole pattern to move the engine/tranny forward about 1/4" to 3/8" to get the isolators centered. Without the tranny in place the isolators were centered, so the weight of the entire assembly plus the slope of the driveway is causing the rearward shift. I'm going to get a cross member made locally, maybe from one of the customers I had when I had my machine shop. I tried contacting Bud at Budbuilt, but haven't had a reply back, so I'll take care of it myself.
Wonder if I should worry about that. Great work! The shifter came out perfect.
My tranny dip stick was hitting there too, but I bent it out of the way. My kick down cable still hits the steering shaft some though. Not too bad.
05-27-2008, 08:45 PM
#36
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Both of the isolators on my wife's 4Runner look like that too. There haven't been any issues with them but the 4Runner sees little offroad use and is pretty much just a DD. The isolators on my 3.0 however, were right on center. I'm going to put some mileage on the spacer I make before I have my cross member built to make sure the engine and tranny are straight and there are no drive line issues.
05-28-2008, 06:25 AM
#39
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https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f107...engine-100260/
I picked it up WITH the tranny, torque converter and transfer case for $1200 and everything was in pretty good shape as advertised. I did rebuild the engine and critcal dimensions (cam, crank, bore) were all in print with no weird wear patterns. Additional parts were sourced from my local mini truck yard (Ferman's, Santa Ana), Toyota of Dallas, and a guy from Desert Island, Maine, doing a diesel conversion. I also have the full auto kit from ORS.
