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It had officially began, 3.0 to 3.4 manual (*EDIT* AUTO)in 92 ex-cab
Got at the donor runner today to start the 3.4 swap. Got some good news and some bad as I ripped into the Runner. As expected from what I have read, as I started to peel away the crushed fender, I could peek in and see the plug for the 3.0 dipstick. Thats great news that I dont have to drill. I wasnt all the worried but one less thing to go wrong is good.
Day started like this
And then the sawzall was introduced to Toyota and then this:
I did have some questions that I have had for some time (assuming I would figure them out as I started seeing things first hand rather than read about them ).
1. The idle up for the power steering. I have tried searching on this over the past few months but get nothing other than guys having idle probs. Not sure of how this works. I assume something kicks the idle up slightly in non-moving wheels turning. I dont understand what is needed to make it keep working as the Runner had it. I also dont understand the need for a special hose as of yet. I removed the hoses from the steering box all the way to the pump. Anyone enlighten me, or maybe as I start actually putting things on the 92 using the 92 box, I'll what the prob is. I plan to junk the ABS actuator so isnt a simple pressure to pressure, return to reservoir going to work?
2. There was a vacuum tank under the driver fender that went to some VSV's and then to a blue check valve (I think) and then down the diff. I assume that is for the ADD. My truck I changed to manual hubs so am I correct to assume that I will not need any of this for smog and anything else?
3. To make the AC work. What am I going to need from the Runner. The condenser, dryer, etc. were ruined in the crash but of course all the lines in the motor compartment seem OK and the compressor is good. I thought that I am using the 3.4 compressor and just change the plate where the lines connect and then use r12 as normal, even though this compressor was 134.
4. What, if any, wiring from under the hood should I plan on needing and keeping. I dont want to start hacking anything up but I would like to get stuff out of the way. From reading about every post here and various other threads I cant remember anyone ever mentioning anything about reusing any 3.4 wiring other than the motor harness.
5. This is a 97 Runner SR5. I assumed that would be OBD2 but I guess not. Wouldn't there be a diagnostic plug in the cab? I only see one on the plenum. By the way, just to the right is the check valve?? I was talking about. I dont need this correct. just cap it?
6. Also, did anyone change their fuel pump to the 3.4. I thought that i read that somewhere but I know in 00-02 or something they changed injectors. this is all foggy now. Am I changing pump or keeping the stock 92 pump?
Got some bad news though looks like the EVAP box didn't survive the crash. I have no idea what the function off this thing is but I assume Toyota had it sealed for a reason and I am thinking that this isnt going to work.
Really stinks cause replacing that just isnt in the budget.
Also, I saw now hook point on the passenger side. I see the hook on the driver side, assuming that is the one at rear of motor and comes up along the trans kickdown cable, but nothing on pass side. Kinda strange i guess....my 3.0 has a pass side but no driver side one . Kinda lucky i guess. We'll see if I can make a working pair that will work for both motors.
Not a ton done today but was kinda surreal to actually see all the stuff that I have only been seeing pictures and reading about for the past 6 months or so. Picking up engine stand, motor crane, and a parts washer tomorrow from my uncle so hopefully have all this out Tuesday night(11-17-09).
1. The idle up for the power steering is a pressure switch and an electrical valve that opens on the bottom of the pump. It basically creates a small vacuum leak that raises the revs slightly. When the pressure is reduced the valve closes and the revs go down. There should be an electrical cable and 2 vacuum hoses.
I completely removed this from my system because I had to use the 3.4 pump and the 3.0 hydraulic hoses. My engine does not stall.
2. Thats the accumulator for the vacuum operated 4x4. You need to keep it, all its fasteners and the vacuum lines. Mount it under you passenger side wheel well and mount the vacuum through the inner fender. Those vsv's are your 2wd and 4wd vsv's. You'll need them. Don't cut the wires or loose the vacuum hoses, and keep the fasteners.
3. I used the 3.4 compressor with the 3.0 plate. I had a hell of a time removing the hex head bolts. I have yet to get it charged so I dont know if it works.
4. I didnt use much from my donor '98, but keep as much of it as you can and dont cut any of it. Yes its a pain in the ass if its in the way, but is it as big of a pain in the ass as getting your soldering iron out and rejoining eleventy billion wires?
5. Yes its OBDII. You have to wire in the diagnostic plug for the code scanner. It doesnt come with one from the factory. That plug you circled is the main diagnostic port that the Toyota dealer would plug their machine into. Do not cut those wires and retain that plug.
6. I kept the stock '91 pump in my swap. Since you don't have a 00 on anything, why worry about 00 on injectors?
That evap box is a potential danger as there will be concentrated fuel vapors in it. It is toast. Throw it away, but keep all the fasteners electrical and vacuum stuff attached. I may have a spare box if I dont put mine in. I'm using the 3.0 cannister but it's not venting right.
Hook up point? Are you referring to something you can hoist the engine with? I used an old seat belt tied around both exhaust manifolds because my engine only had one hook.
You need the idle up valve for California. The BAR referee will be looking for it. I spliced the 3.4 & 3.0 high pressure line together at the hard line, a simple mod but requires welding. Brazing could work there too.
The black hook bolted to the air chamber is one lift point. The other hook you need to buy from Toyota, or you can modify and use the long hook from the 3.0. I used mine without drilling a second bolt hole, but I would drill the second hole if I need to pull the engine again.
You need to use the 3.4 evap box. Look on TTORA for a used one. More 3.4 parts over there.
The OBDII port is under the dash somewhere of your donor. You need this.
2. Thats the accumulator for the vacuum operated 4x4. You need to keep it, all its fasteners and the vacuum lines. Mount it under you passenger side wheel well and mount the vacuum through the inner fender. Those vsv's are your 2wd and 4wd vsv's. You'll need them. Don't cut the wires or loose the vacuum hoses, and keep the fasteners.
Again, all that was stripped out of my 92 when we changed to manual hubs. I took out the vacuum lines and even the tube on the axle where the slide is to engage the 4x4 to a non-add model. So on my truck now, there is nowhere to hookup vacuum lines to. The VSVs are still on the inner fender but not operational so I dont need this to make my 4x4 work on my 92.
Are there other ramifications of not hooking this stuff up in the swap as far as the motor running correctly, not smoging, etc.
I just cant see why I need all of it for my situation.
I was just thinking to cap that vacuum lines that ran to the vsvs of the 3.4
You need the idle up valve for California. The BAR referee will be looking for it. I spliced the 3.4 & 3.0 high pressure line together at the hard line, a simple mod but requires welding. Brazing could work there too.
I have seen that in your thread. That was my plan was still wasnt sure. It looks simple enough.
Originally Posted by cadman
The OBDII port is under the dash somewhere of your donor. You need this.
After looking a bit closer, I found it above accelerator pedal. At least I think thats it. I'll put up a pic later.
I have seen that in your thread. That was my plan was still wasnt sure. It looks simple enough.
After looking a bit closer, I found it above accelerator pedal. At least I think thats it. I'll put up a pic later.
Its an easy mod. I'm sure brazing it together with a section of tube is more than sufficient.
Thats the port. I scanned my buddies '99 4Runner and that was where it was located. I have mine in the same area, and I just tuck it behind that panel rather than do any cutting and hard mounting it.
All OBDII compliant vehicles must have an OBDII port in the vehicle to hook up a scanner, that is a requirement.
Again, all that was stripped out of my 92 when we changed to manual hubs. I took out the vacuum lines and even the tube on the axle where the slide is to engage the 4x4 to a non-add model. So on my truck now, there is nowhere to hookup vacuum lines to. The VSVs are still on the inner fender but not operational so I dont need this to make my 4x4 work on my 92.
Are there other ramifications of not hooking this stuff up in the swap as far as the motor running correctly, not smoging, etc.
I just cant see why I need all of it for my situation.
I was just thinking to cap that vacuum lines that ran to the vsvs of the 3.4
Chill out dude. I dont follow every thread or post you make. If the complete 4x4 system is there I'd use it. But thats just me. I didnt know you had deliberately removed yours.
The ramifications? I dunno, possible cels from missing vsv's? Just keep them plugged in I guess. Also, you wont need to plug the vacuum lines, just dont connect them into the engine. Remove a T you have somewhere and connect what was in one one of the T to the now free 4x4 vac port.
Basically as far your new ecu goes, your vehicle dosent have 4x4. Infact there is only 1 or 2 wires going to the ecu thats 4wd related. There is no need to think about any 4x4 related wiring or vacuum lines. So as you say, you dont need to worry about it. I'd personally keep the wiring incase you ever wanted ADD again, but thats your call.
I know that these have been mostly answered above, but I'm going to toss my two cents in with the others, since I used a '97 Taco engine for my swap.
1. The idle up for the power steering. I have tried searching on this over the past few months but get nothing other than guys having idle probs. Not sure of how this works. I assume something kicks the idle up slightly in non-moving wheels turning. I dont understand what is needed to make it keep working as the Runner had it. I also dont understand the need for a special hose as of yet. I removed the hoses from the steering box all the way to the pump. Anyone enlighten me, or maybe as I start actually putting things on the 92 using the 92 box, I'll what the prob is. I plan to junk the ABS actuator so isnt a simple pressure to pressure, return to reservoir going to work?
I used the complete engine from the 97, including the power steering pump. All I had to do was grind off a nub that's on the 3.0 power steering line. Never had any problems with my idle, ever.
2. There was a vacuum tank under the driver fender that went to some VSV's and then to a blue check valve (I think) and then down the diff. I assume that is for the ADD. My truck I changed to manual hubs so am I correct to assume that I will not need any of this for smog and anything else?
Odds are that's what those are for. Never used them. Like you, I have manual hubs. Pulled all the VSVs and the canister from under the fender, removing it completely.
3. To make the AC work. What am I going to need from the Runner. The condenser, dryer, etc. were ruined in the crash but of course all the lines in the motor compartment seem OK and the compressor is good. I thought that I am using the 3.4 compressor and just change the plate where the lines connect and then use r12 as normal, even though this compressor was 134.
From what I understand, and recall that I don't have A/C yet in mine (truck didn't come with it, but I made sure the engine had a compressor to add it later), but from what I know from my research, use the 3.4 compressor with the 3.0 plate, but you'll more than likely need to run R134a. And you'll need both systems bled by a professional to make sure you don't vent any refrigerant to the atmosphere. Since you're cracking open the systems, you'll probably need to replace the dryer.
4. What, if any, wiring from under the hood should I plan on needing and keeping. I dont want to start hacking anything up but I would like to get stuff out of the way. From reading about every post here and various other threads I cant remember anyone ever mentioning anything about reusing any 3.4 wiring other than the motor harness.
Keep everything attached to the engine. Go under the dash, passenger side, probably above the glovebox, and locate the ECU. Unplug it all and feed it through the grommet on the passenger side firewall. You probably won't need the charging harness on the 3.4, because odds are you'll need to re-use the 3.0 alternator harness (don't cut it off).
5. This is a 97 Runner SR5. I assumed that would be OBD2 but I guess not. Wouldn't there be a diagnostic plug in the cab? I only see one on the plenum. By the way, just to the right is the check valve?? I was talking about. I dont need this correct. just cap it?
I think you found this already. Don't cut the wires. Take the time to remove it properly.
6. Also, did anyone change their fuel pump to the 3.4. I thought that i read that somewhere but I know in 00-02 or something they changed injectors. this is all foggy now. Am I changing pump or keeping the stock 92 pump?
Use the 3.0 pump. It's fine. I spliced mine at the soft line, high pressure side, with a high pressure brass fitting. No leaks at this point, but it's one of the things I'll probably remedy next year.
Got some bad news though looks like the EVAP box didn't survive the crash. I have no idea what the function off this thing is but I assume Toyota had it sealed for a reason and I am thinking that this isnt going to work.
Really stinks cause replacing that just isnt in the budget.
Also, I saw now hook point on the passenger side. I see the hook on the driver side, assuming that is the one at rear of motor and comes up along the trans kickdown cable, but nothing on pass side. Kinda strange i guess....my 3.0 has a pass side but no driver side one . Kinda lucky i guess. We'll see if I can make a working pair that will work for both motors.
I just bolted a chain to the block and used the factory hook.
Not a ton done today but was kinda surreal to actually see all the stuff that I have only been seeing pictures and reading about for the past 6 months or so. Picking up engine stand, motor crane, and a parts washer tomorrow from my uncle so hopefully have all this out Tuesday night(11-17-09).
Good night tonight. Got more taken apart. The trans unbolted, the harness all unplugged from under the truck and ready to come out. Really fun taking those top plugs out of the trans while still in. Few choice words and lots of little scrapes and cuts on the hands.
Took the dash out to get to the main interior harness to get the OBD2 plug and wiring intact. Starting wondering if that newer gauge cluster will fit in the 92.... That would sure be cool.
Been looking for an ECM that is 5speed. Not sure if it has to be California or not though. Mine doesnt say anything about California or Federal. Wonder if thats apparent through a scanner by the Ref or smog shop?
Still unclear on the wiring. Mainly what I am going to need from the interior of the truck. I am going to take everything that I can and hope i dont need it. There is a ton of wiring in there!!!
Spent more time today dealing with people since I am parting it out as I go to recoup money from buying the vehicle. Made about $350 today selling the stereo bezel and the read liftgate so I have body lift money!! Hope to get half my investment into this back.
Cant work on it again till Friday but I plan on having the motor out and on the stand Friday night and start tearing apart the 3.0 Saturday morning and get it out by dark. Thats the plan anyway
Emissions wise, 3rd gen 4Runners are legal in all 50 states. My donor was a 4Runner registered in Oregon and the ref deemed it legal in California. You just have to keep all of the smog devices for the swap. Another plus for having a 4Runner donor; if you install a sc you'll have fewer problems because you won't have an EGR system.
I have read that. I am just worried about complicating things for the ref. I figured the more that is right and not matching things, and therefore explaining things to him, the better and easier things will go getting everything approved.
11-15-2009, 07:41 PM
Hope to get half my investment into this back.
