M@

WE DEMAND PIX!! .... Seriously sounds like a good idea.

breknraj

So here we go. Two jobs have been keeping my time at a premium!

The damage:





The repair:







Re-wrapped and ready to install:



I got the pipe installed today. Since I took the engine partially out to get to the pipe, and did it without taking the A/C apart, it looks like I am going to have to back the transmission out some to get the engine back onto the mounts.

At least I'm in the re-assembly stage, so, hopefully, I'll be seeing the end sometime soon!

DeathCougar

iTrader: (23)

Curious why you would wrap it? I think the wrap is holding the heat in too well, and causing to metal to overheat.

breknraj

The ORS crossover has no heat shield of its own, like the factory crossovers do, so the wrap is to keep the heat from the pipe from damaging stuff nearby on the engine and firewall. Also, I am not running any kind of body lift, so the clearances to wires and hoses is pretty tight.

I feel pretty confident that the cracking was primarily because of not enough support to the exhaust system below the crossover. I am planning to add a support arm from the bell housing, and to add a flex coupling in between my two cats. I'm hoping that with these additions, plus the fish plate re-inforcing of the crossover, that it will be enough to keep this from happening, again.

mt_goat

I wrapped mine too, ORS recommends the wrap. You just need to be carefull to wrap evenly and not over lap too much. EDIT 1/16/09: yeah mine got too hot, you were right Coug! ORS is now recommending ceramic coating instead of the wrap.

breknraj

Well, real life and Mother Nature can be a real pain, but Worf is back together and running, again! I did splice in an 8" flex fitting on my exhaust, between the two cats. The only thing I have left to do, now, is to fab up the downpipe support for the bell housing.

I had the usual fun and games bleeding the cooling system, and had to bring the yellow top back up from about 15%, but all is good, again. I also checked the A/C, since I did this job without disconnecting any of the A/C components, and it is still blowing cold!

I'll post pics of the support, once I figure out how I'm going to do it!

mt_goat

Well crap, mine is cracked now too.

cadman

Ouch . Looks like it's time to make that brace I put on the back burner and modify the stock cross-over to replace the ORS when it does crack.

mt_goat

What's your plan with the stock x-over?

cadman

Modify it like Jason4x4 did to dump on the driver side, but machine a new collector flange or modify the stock one so it can bolt to a support on the bellhousing like it did on the passenger side. I think the cross-over really needs a mount point at the flange just like the stock config to eliminate or minimize any twisting forces.

thefallman

mine seems to be working fine for over a year now no problems and instead of wrapping it is now ceramic coated so i can see immediately if it where to crack. btw just so all of you know if you have a 3 inch body lift all you have to do is drop the transmission crossmember and lower the trans about 4 inches and you can slide the crossover out the drivers side wheel well

cadman

One big plus with the older cross-over design is it that it is made of two separate pipes and there is no welded junction to fail.

syber_kowboy

I'm concerned that mine might have cracked due to temperature extremes. I haven't really located the leak but it's definitely on the drivers side. It could be related to a twist/torque issue too. cadman you got yours out by lowering the transmission right? Was that the ORS crossover?

cadman

Yes, I was able to remove and re-install my ORS cross-over from the driver side by lowering the rear end of the transmission. I just put my tranny jack under the crossmember and unbolted it rather than remove the cross member and move the tranny itself. I have a 1" bl and the spacer I currently have on the cross member lifts the tranny 1" over the stock height, so that probably negates the bl lift somewhat.

syber_kowboy

So mine cracked at the collector but I think that was because I ground the weld down a little too thin. I don't know what broke the weld though. It could have been torque or cold snow getting on the hot pipe. Either way it was on the outside area so I was able to weld it without removing it or taking the wheel off. Took about 5 minutes

thefallman

hey syber take a look at my post on the bottom of Dales thread

here https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f160...5/index29.html

Dale had a crack as well. seems the welded joint is prone to failure. especially when wrapped, with no flex coupling before or near the cat, and no tranny/exhuast mount support.

westjohns yota

im really likeing what i hear, should have done a 3.4 swap with mine instead of rebuilding the old 22r, although it has a cam and some other goodies on it

4x4runr

Any update on the oil sender??? Lol read the whole thread and .....