atcfixer

iTrader: (1)

Nice work. One thing I notice is the chain on the cherry picker is quite long before the fancy engine balance thing (I've never used one of them lol). When you put the new engine in, you should be able to shorten it up to 2-3 links from the top and probably extend the picker's arm to the longest setting which gives the highest lift but weakest mechanical advantage.

I rarely pull engines/transmissions "correctly" since I've bought a lot of scrap cars/trucks over the years and the parts didn't matter at all to me, I was just trying to increase the raw value of the metal by separating it more. Last time I tried to do a transmission job it ended with me hauling the ford ranger to the scrap yard because I couldn't get the slave to bleed out lol. The truck had a lot of other problems and was way before I ever touched a Toyota... FYI there is a reason Toyota has a reputation of being reliable and easier to work on. Anyway pulling the engine can be really quick if you just don't care about it like junk yards do it, but in the process wires get cut, oil pans can get holes punched in them, etc. Doing the job slower generally means your doing a better job and paying more attention to detail.

As for the 3.4L and wiring, it might be worth your time to research how much effort it would take to combine your existing harness to the 3.4L engine harness and such. I haven't done an engine swap like you're doing, but I've swapped pins around to use an Auto ECU in a MT truck just because I had the part on hand already and I was being cheap. I might be crazy, but I think the auto computer makes the 3.4L run different/strong at lower rpm, hard to explain but my dad noticed it as well comparing his 95 manual t100 to my 98 manual t100 with the auto ecu from a 97 t100 truck. Of course it has a check engine light but running wise, it runs/drives fine. I know the conversion harnesses are quite expensive, so it really boils down to time vs money and your experience with working with wires. It isn't super hard, just takes time and a good "plan" to follow and of course a multi-meter helps validate things.

arroyobass

Yep I really wished I had paid more attention to the length of the chain on the cherry picker! I didn't realize just how high it was going to have to go to get it out! But yea, when the new engine is going in I'm going to make sure to move it a few links up on both the leveler and the picker. I did some digging to find the weight of the 3vze and most people were saying the block and heads were about 500lbs. So even on the longest setting of the arm I would have 500lbs of extra lifting capacity.

Hahaha yea I definitely imagine you could pull it faster if you're just cutting all of the lines! I'm pretty sure I could put the engine back in right now and reconnect every hose and wire and it would fire right up! I didn't cut a single wire or hose the entire time. But damn, that took a while!

I am going to be getting a harness from ToyOnlySwaps. I am trying to have the new engine running by summer, so I don't want to spend the time figuring out the wiring. I have a ton of experience with electronics, so that would be the easy part for me, but I just don't want to spend the time working on it. The $600 for the harness is worth it to me. They are going to be building it to match a T100 Auto 4x4 ECU. The guys at ToyOnlySwaps told me that would be the best setup based on keeping the old transmission and the rest of my setup.

On another note, I'm going to be replacing my torque converter seal while I have everything open. I'm pretty sure I messed it up while I was trying to yank the engine out with the torque converter still attached!

atcfixer

iTrader: (1)

That's a good move, I was a little worried about it, but now that's put to rest .

Even though the cherry picker says 1/2 ton (1000lbs), it can pick up more than that at the setting, it's just what it's rated for for long term use. Similar goes for towing capacity, I know my dad has gone way above that on his T100 before, but driving smart and keeping speeds down he has had no problems. Not something to do everyday though. Would be silly to design something to lift 1000lbs, but at 1001lbs it would break.

arroyobass

Got my new engine ordered and it's getting delivered on Monday! It's a 2001 4Runner engine, and they are including a harness and ECU from a T100 to match my A340 transmission from my '95. They are including every piece of exhaust, intake, evap, wiring, and every engine driven accessory all for $2000.

Since the engine is after a 2000 it looks like I am going to need to drill a new oil dipstick hole. Does anybody have one of the off road solutions dipstick drill guides I could buy? $45 bucks for a drill guide is kinda crazy to me!

I'll be replacing a whole bunch of regular maintenance stuff on the engine before putting it in the truck. I also have to send off my plugs and exhaust to ToyOnlySwaps to get my new crossover pipe and harness built. Lots of money coming out of my pockets in the next few weeks!

atcfixer

iTrader: (1)

What year is the T100 harness? Another thing to note is the OBD2 diag port might have to be repinned. From my xp, 97 auto and 98 manual T100 has 2 different signal standards (pin 2 vs 7). I don't have the EWD for the 4runners, so I'm not sure which pin it would used. Some day I plan to buy access again and grab 4runners and such for the ease of reference.

Anyway, good luck with the swap, hopefully everything goes smooth =)

Tung8

Any update on your build? I want to do my own 3.4 swap, but I'm concerned with the California BAR stating that one can only use the passenger drop for the exhaust. In talking with Toy Only, a passenger drop is both difficult and not ideal. Wondering if you had any issues regarding this.

yotahacker13

Any update on your build? Also curious about BAR requirements.

jsabowabo

I'd like to know what happened on the build too. Yes, CA BAR allows a drivers side drop, but you have to use factory flanges. The TOS crossover pipe is legal, the ORS pipe is not.