ztbailey1

I am almost done with the referee process to get my rig smogged in Cali and thought I'd share some of my experience so far. Smog can be one of those things that make or break a swap. I'd like anyone else with input to share all they have for others thinking of doing the swap.

My rig- 1992 4runner
Donor engine- 2001 Tacoma 3.4

My only concern while doing the swap was whether or not the smog ref was going to OK the crossover and exhaust dump on the driver side (as opposed to the passenger like the 3.4s come stock). I talked to the smog ref, and he said it is fine as long as all the components are in their relative positions (i.e. distance between cats, 02 sensors). Also, the exhaust requires TWO catalytic converters if you're in Cali, and two 02 sensors(at least mine does). Aftermarket cats are also OK. I talked to him about these things specifically and said they were fine. Also, on CARB's website there is a list of aftermarket parts accepted. I will be using Magnaflow cats, part numbers 444005 and 441005, Exec order number D-193-96

I don't know if it is required but I have a CA donor engine and ECU (wanted to be extra safe).
An OBDII port is required (mines hiding under the glove box)
The 3.4 EVAP box is required, all of the 3.0 stuff gets pulled out.
The 3.4 Factory air box is required, or a CARB approved intake
And of course all vacuum lines must be plugged, all 3.4 smog related components must be present, and the check engine light must work.
If I find more detailed information I will update as necessary

I have been talking to John Balthazar, the head referee in the Sacramento Area, based out of ARC. He has been a huge help and will answer any questions you have. The number to call if you need to speak with a referee is 1-800- 622-7733. CARB website: arb.ca.gov

(edit, helpful link for clearing monitors: http://www.obdclearinghouse.com/docu...revised%29.pdf)
(EDIT NOVEMBER 2020: Link is Broken, try this one: https://www.smogtips.com/smog-questi...ma-Drive-Cycle )

**I have not gotten the rig smogged yet, however I felt this information may be useful so I wanted to post it. I will be getting the exhaust installed this weekend and make a referee appointment after that. As far as I know this information is correct and will get your rig smogged in Cali (along with some in depth research). If anything changes I will edit. Will also update when completely finished with the referee process

Please add/edit information as needed!

(Edit: Smogged my truck January 2014)

dark_fairytales

thanks for sharing, I have a swap planned in my future, however I am planing to go smog exempt.

timmJ

I took mine to the same place for the CARB sticker. I only had one issue with the rear O2 sensor. I had it placed exactly as another same year engine (went from 95 to a 97 4runner) and he told me that the rear 02 had to be within 3 to 6 inches of the back of the cat. I think mine was closer to 10ish. I could not find any documentation to back up my measurement so I had to go with what he said. You don't need to have a CA donor engine just have to make sure everything matches as close to possible for the year of donor engine. It actually wasn't that bad of a process. I also used the toyonly swaps crossover and he never even asked about it.

I kept all my receipts from everything I purchased for it in case something came up but it never did. Also you have to have the connector (OBDII port) for communication with the ECU installed and working. This is the one that is in the Cab that has to be swapped in since it is later than 1996 vehicle.

ztbailey1

TimmJ- Good to know, I will be getting mine to him soon.
-Also, thanks for pointing out the OBDII port, I forgot to mention that is required.

mikea71

Does anyone know how many cats are required on a 1996 3.4 engine from a Tacoma? I read on one website it should be one and after 2001 it went to two. Anyone have the official word on this?

ztbailey1

@ mikea71: Sorry no official word, but because mine was a 2001 Taco engine, I was required to use two catalytic converters. Not sure about a 1996 though. Best thing to do would be to call the local smog referee or Toyota themselves.


Also, I do have my CARB sticker now, and am completely legal and registered with the 3.4 engine. I will post pictures, updates, and snags I had along the way, later this evening.

ztbailey1

Ok so here's proof of completion:


The only main problem I had was clearing the monitor codes. It is OK for one of them to be set to not ready for smog, but if an engine swap is involved, all monitors must be set to "ready"
The hardest two to clear were the EVAP and CATALYST monitors
Here is a website explaining the procedure for the drive patterns to reset the codes:

http://www.obdclearinghouse.com/docu...revised%29.pdf
EDIT NOVEMBER 2020: this link is broken, but check these out to get the monitors complete:
https://www.smogtips.com/smog-questi...ma-Drive-Cycle
https://justsmogs.com/2016/05/1996-t...rive-patterns/

Also not sure if I mentioned or not, the crossover was OK,
as long as the required catalytic converters and O2 sensors are in the correct place.

Here are some exhaust setup pics (sorry if it's hard to see)

Looking forward from rear, behind 2nd O2 Sensor:


Looking forward from rear, 1st O2 sensor placement:


Looking back from the front:


Really it was not difficult to get it approved, only problem I had was clearing the monitors. And the only reason it took so long is because I was lazy and decided to drive it around for nine months illegally until I got caught by a ranger at Folsom Lake and they towed it because it was past six months expired tags.... Sometimes it takes a kick in the ass to get you to finish what needs to get done.

mikea71

What did it cost for the referee to inspect it?

ztbailey1

It was only the cost of smog plus the cert. I think it was just under $100

mikea71

If you fail the visual inspection do you still pay?

ztbailey1

Nope, well at least not where I went, It took me a couple of times going back for it to pass (same reason for failure every time, monitors not set to ready)
As far as I know, most of them are no pass/no pay so you can keep trying until you pass.

SacRunner

Congrats on passing, but when I went to the smog ref, it was more on the $8 side of things (yes EIGHT dollars) than the $60-ish for a regular smog test...then again, all my registration fees were paid up, so that may have made a difference.

ztbailey1

Thanks, and very nice.
I'm gonna have to look back at my receipts. I think the $8 is for the cert. Maybe I didn't pay an additional fee... Haha don't remember.
Either way it shouldn't be too pricey

dntsdad

I just paid the cert fee too. It was les than $10

ztbailey1

Yeah I ended up looking back at my receipts, it was just the cheap cert fee.
Good to have reinforcement on that.

Also dntsdad, thank you for all your input to the site, your 3.4 swap was one of the inspirations for mine, along with elvota, mt goat, and a few others I can't remember right now.

kowalski22

So how long did it take for your monitors to run? Did the drive cycles help at all?

I am in the exact same boat right now... Cant get evap or cat monitors to run.

Same thing here with paying, I failed yesterday. I payed $0. The ref even told me to come in for a regular smog check for $8.25 instead of paying $60 to the regular smog places

ztbailey1

@kowalski22


Have you checked out this link? http://www.obdclearinghouse.com/docu...revised%29.pdf
(EDIT NOVEMBER 2020: Link is Broken, will try to remember what this was and find a new pdf)

I ended up buying an OBDII scanner to check my codes, temp, etc.
I think you could probably rent one from Autozone or Oreilly ?

The reason it took me so long to clear those two codes is because it was difficult to heat the truck up past the required temperature (176 F I think) without driving it around and messing up the pattern. There is a required time it must idle and arm up, and it's hard to find a place where I can drive 45+ mph then stop, then drive 10-15mph etc for the patterns. Once I got it warmed up though they tripped pretty quickly.

Also, make sure the power to the ECU is good, mine kept resetting the codes every time I turned off the engine until I fixed it, which screwed me up.

Overall though they're not too difficult to reset, but you need something to monitor temp, because if it is not warm enough when you start, it wont reset. And for one of them the air temp and coolant temp must be within certain bounds of each other for it to work.

Haha hopefully that's not too confusing, I'm not sure how to explain it all.

kowalski22

Thanks for the reply. I have that TSB printed out and keep a copy in the truck. I can recite that drive cycle from memory I have done it so many times.

I picked up an OBD2-USB cable like the one in Dntsdad's thread. Also came with OBDwiz so I can watch ECT&IAT temps. Its been warm here latley so I have been trying to do the drive cycle in the mornings. I have done it about 10 times now, its getting irritating. I have mostly tried it on jack stands, but also driving to work which is difficult to get correct. At this point, I think something is wrong. I just have no idea what!

I have dropped the tank and checked the vent line (and return) for blockages. replaced the hoses from tank to hardline. I am certain everything from the evap is hooked up correctly. I even stole the evap can and all the switches/valves from my buddys tacoma to try and get mine to run. (his was ready) at this point, im lost...

ztbailey1

@kowalski22

Very odd... Sounds like you really know what you're doing too.
Is there anything else getting tripped in the ECU? Or pending codes, etc?
So you're getting it heated past 176 before starting the cycles?

Could it have anything to do with O2 sensors or something else OBDII related? (just trying to throw ideas around)

Mine (luckily) were rather straightforward once I figured out what I needed to do.
Like I mentioned, it was just difficult for me to warm it up enough.

If I think of anything that might help I'll send it your way.

kowalski22

Thanks man!

Im learning about this smog nonsense as I go. Tons of info here!

I have been focusing on my evap monitor exclusively for the last few days.
I can Idle my truck for 5 mins and the ECT comes up to 195* I do the cold soak per drive cycle #5 and then on jack stands run the truck.

I just met with my regular smog guy and showed him the results of my appointment with the REF. He says the following:

Don't pop the gas cap before the drive cycle since my donor (1998) doesn't have a pump to pump up the evap for the beginning of the test.

Don't go by the drive cycles set forth by Toyota. Just go drive it.

He thinks I have a marginal rear O2. says replace it and reset ECU, drive the truck every day and bring it in Friday to put on the machine and see if it passes. If not, then I for sure need a new cat. he thinks this is why my cat monitor wont run.

Did you make your own crossover? cut up stock one and weld it back together? Did they put your sticker in the door jam?