cadman

I reused the firewall grommet






Since the 3.0 harness was going in the trash I just cut the connectors off to remove the grommet. To install the grommet and one of the boots from a spare 3.4 harness I had to remove the connectors and wrap the harness ends with Saran Wrap & tape to slide it through everything. You can see in the pic the connetors are still off the harness.

mt_goat

So even with a solid axle the 3.4 oil pan won't work?

mt_goat

I couldn't find that female to female union and had to order one.

I cut a slit in my 3.0 grommet and still used it. I was careful to put the slit in a way that the harness wouldn't pull into the cut part. I may have used some RTV too, can't remember now. Something else Mike told me in one of the hundred phone calls I made to him.

neoworm0

Thanks for the replies.

Mt. Goat, I think the 5v oil pan would be even worse with the SAS. The issue is the draglink from the high steer hits the pan when you articulate. The 5v sump is even lower and further forward than the 3v.

Well I made some progress today.

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Had mixed feelings about taking the old 3.0 out. It really wasn't too bad too me.

I got over it though.

Pulled the engine mounts off and put the new isolators from ORS on. Quite a difference in height.

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Then I went to put the mounts on the 3.4. For some reason Toyota decided to put a spout on the coolant drain port on the block. The 3.0 didn't have this spout. It interfered with the pass. engine mount I thought about pulling it out but decided to relieve the mount instead.

before:

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and after:

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mounted, sorry it's a bit hard to see. It's in the center of the photo.

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tomorrow I mount the oil pan and start cleaning up the engine bay.

mt_goat

Yeah you could have also cut off the spout on the block drain.

neoworm0

I thought the spout might be useful someday.

screamer76

i did the same thing with my motor mount. i also had to grind the a/c bracket where it overlaps the motor mount because the 3.0 mounts are thicker than the ones that came from the tacoma.

Gavman

I would have put a 22re in it bud
Let me know if you need a hand aligning it or other help
You are gonna love that power in there

neoworm0

Thanks Gavman,

Ya you'll probably get a call when the 3.4 is ready to go in.

cadman

Instead of cutting the motor mount bracket, I wonder if the earlier version block drain plug would be a direct swap . The drain plug on my block doesn't have the spout and only has a hole drilled in it. Too late for anyone who already relieved their bracket but something for future swappers to consider.

mt_goat

Here's mine with the spout cut off:

neoworm0

I considered all those options but thought it might actually be nice to have the spout on there one day. If I ever have or want to drain the block I can put a hose on it and avoid a big mess.

Relieving the motor mount only took 10 minutes and the cast mount has a lot of material. I was sure to make sure there were no sharp edges or stress risers.

neoworm0

Well today got off to a bad start. I went out to the garage around noon and found a huge puddle of gas beneath the truck. I guess the attempt I made to plug the line I had to cut was unsuccesful.

Well after I got that cleaned up I decided to swap the oil pans for the SAS.

Here's the original front sump pan:

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I have a modified baffle from the 3.0 but decided to modify the 3.4 baffle instead of cleaning all the silicone off the 3.0 one.

3.4 baffle:

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Modified for the rear sump pickup tube. The holes could have been a bit smaller but it was the smallest hole saw I have. Worked out fine.

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Mounted:

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This pan and pickup tube are from a 2wd 3.0l 3vz-e

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Wheelingnoob

Getting there man!!! looking good!

neoworm0

Thanks Jeremy, I finished building a battery tray for it today based on the base that ORS sent me. I'll post up some pics tommorow.

neoworm0

Well it didn't turn out to bad. I decided to add to the tray that ORS provided and make the whole thing a bolt in setup. I don't have any welding facilities here and like Cadman said, the ORS tray is just a starting point. I used Nylock nuts on everythng so it should all stay tight but if not it'll be easy to just weld the tray in place later.

Drilled some holes and made up some brackets:

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Then I positioned the spacer/tray that came with my battery:

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Mounted the support for the tray to sit on:

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Gave it a paintjob and mounted it:

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Tossed in the battery:

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Checked the fit with the overflow bottle. Nothing touches so all good:

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neoworm0

Then I had to come up with some way to hold it down. I really wanted to keep the factory bracket. Don't ask me why. Anyway I think it turned out well. It is way sturdier than I thought it would be. Nothing moves or flexes at all.

I was worried about stressing the sheet metal that the tray is attached to. I used giant fender washers behind all the bolts. I think it'll be fine. Time will tell. In time I may put some UHMW blocks under the tray like Cadman did. So far it doesn't seem like it will be needed.

Made a bracket for the threaded "J" arm to go into:

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Holds well. At first I thought I had made it to high but I test fit the hood and it doesn't even come close. Have to cut some threads off that rod, get rid of the ghetto bolts and splash some paint on the bracket and it's DONE. Next: Cut out the old tray.

mt_goat

Good work!

neoworm0

Thanks Dale.

Hophead

Lookin' real nice. You won't miss the old 3.0 after the first drive around the block.... Let me know if I can help ya out with anything, I am local.

Good luck!