vwfastg60

Hey guys im still new here and looking to get some help. My 4runner has been making noise.I figured the guides and chain were going cause the old owner never did it.200k on the clock its bound to happen im told. Well heres the thing. I ordered the chain and guide set and it says its for a 22r is this ok ? The other question is my dad had picked up an RV cam iswhat we think its for for. will this give me any more power in the turbo runner? My runner seriously lags and im looking to get more out of it. I figure i can add on while i have it apart.

Is there a site i can read on an easy or maybe some tips and tricks for replacing this. Also anything to look for while i have it apart.I got a new waterpump and all the gaskets. Im getting the belts tomorow when i go to get oil and filter and coolant. I really need my truck back on the road and could use help as tomorrow is about my only day to do this. The other cams brand new so i figure if it will work and work better i can swap it.I can flush th fluids again and do any service it might need or i can get ahead on. Im used to a vw and 100 things going wrong at once and for just the guides to brake is puzzling me. Mainly i hope i got the right guides and chain. thanks and i hope to hear back quickly AIM works fastest vwfastg60 or your welcome to call me with any tips you have....

Russell
720-329-6301

vwfastg60

also forgot to add that i used 10/30 oil last time is there abetter weight for this motor.I need to keep the turbo in mind.Its pushing 10psi as of right before it blew

superjoe83

if the chain is for a 85 and newer 22r, then it will work, if your going to be putting a cam in it, i would recommend doing the head gasket because you will have to remove the head bolts to get the cam out, and dont forget that 12mm head bolt that sits right under the distributor drive gear, usually its in a puddle of oil....

vwfastg60

Thanks....I got that much got it all back on but now fighiting the belts....I took them off and they got thrown away by a friend who was doing me a favor.... well i had them marked and when i got new ones i was going to match them up but cant figure out what smaller one goes where anyone have a pic with a/c?

JL8Jeff

Your lack of power could be the turbo has a cracked turbine housing which is not allowing it to build boost properly. Don't pay attention to the stock boost gauge, it's all wrong. My old 87 RTE had a cracked housing so I got a rebuilt turbo for around $725 and ported the manifold and turbine housing to flow more air and when I put it all back together it ran awesome. There is no doubt when boost is kicking in. So if you're not feeling a sudden surge of acceleration, you probably don't have any boost. I can't remember the belt setup without seeing a manual, sorry.

vwfastg60

Turbos fine that was my first worry.It was a timing chain guide that had snapped and the cam skipped 1 tooth. ten there was oil i spilled that dripped on the turbo and splashed up on the distributor wiring harness....I spilled and spaced cleaning it cause it was like 4am when we were getting home... everythings back together now i figured out the belts but cant figure out the top alternator bracket cause i cant remember taking it off....I have that the belts and radiator now and flush everything and its done....No bent valves or anything. so i feel like i got lucky..


I did a compression test and it was 120 accross exept i could see #2 go to 120 and by the time i got up front it was 110...I checked cam timing and it was one tooth off .I reset it and 120 accross and no leaking. The cap melted and alot of wiring was burned but after replacing every harness that was near it and so uch as marked i think im good to go. Im supprised that 200k and this thing has exact the same cr accross.I was thinking about selling it cause i was scared it was going to have bigger problems but now i see i might as well get ahead on replacing stuff and keep it up...seems the old owner slacked on alot of stuff.

Also i added a VDO boost gauge and oil temp oil pressurew and now getting an egt so i can keep things under close eye. The turbo is and has been pushing 10psi for months and still strong.I was talking to a guy at the dealer and he said that i might have felt the loss in power cause the chain was so bad and thats why the truck wouldnt pull like it used to right before it went.

List of stuff i did
Chain and guides (doa kit my dad had waiting for his motor)
Scored a new timing cover and water pump/gasket set (oem still in packages) off my dad
Oilpan gasket valvecover gasket and dizzy O-ring cap rotor plugs and wires.
Spliced harnes from dizzy ,vacue lines...
Flushed radiator and cooling system.
flushed oil and new filter.
Added Redline water wetter and thermistat and gaskets.
t-case flush and fill rear end flush and fill
tranny fluid was changed after i got it.
All new belts.
OEM oil pump again scored off my dad

JL8Jeff

Where are you reading the boost from, in front of the TB or from the intake manifold? In front of the TB will give you false boost readings when the throttle blade is suddenly shut. I took the boost off the cruise control vacuum port on the intake. I was getting about 7-8 lbs of boost on a fresh rebuilt turbo at that point. I'm trying to remember the alternator bracket mounting and I think I remember it being a pain in the butt because of the turbo cooling lines. I will say that my turbo 4Runner would easily outrun a V6 4Runner with a good working turbo. But it also used a lot more gas than my V6 does so there are definitely tradeoffs. I'm surprised your engine is that good with 200K on it. Maybe somebody replaced it at some earlier point in time. My 4Runner had 150K on it when I got it and it already had a rebuilt turbo engine in it but the turbo itself was cracked.

vwfastg60

well i had a weird feeling today and thought i would drain the oil and fill coolant first...well my timing cover didnt seal and i got a mess.. after pulling it all apart again i found that the headgasket folded under.... So got a headgasket today and so tomorrow im doing a headgasket. after all the time i spent this is a huge kick in th junk. Im tired of wrenching this thing...thinking of selling it but i know i will hate myself if i do.well i guess i will see what tomorrow brings for fun.


I have my vacume T'ed in on the manifold. I was told that 7 psi would be normal and when i hooked it up thats what i saw. i threw the manual boost control in there and went to 10 psi just for a little more but it made a huge perfomance jump. the Maf tune i read about helped out alot im running a tad rich if i go off my plugs.I wnt to get it on a dyno and do a wideband pull to see what is up cause i dont want to buy one for the 4rnner when i dont even have one in the corrado yet. i figure dout the brakets and feel soo stupid now after looking at it. Its cause i have slept a full 2 hours in the past 2 days... All work and no play sucks :cry: :cry:

vwfastg60

ok im tearing in to the Head here in the next hour..Any tips for removing it?I can figure it out im just not sure that at the rate im going so far i can afford messing up anything else.


Also because the heads coming off i will be tryin out that cam to see what happens...With any luck doing all this will make it pull a little bit better. I really need more low end for town but i guess we will see what happens...I feel kinda ratsy today and have to go get paint for a car at the shop so maybe i will come away with something cool to the motor...I will post some pics when im all done.

JL8Jeff

If you have the head off, you might want to consider taking it to a shop and having the exhaust stud holes helicoiled. My RTE ended up stripping almost all the exhaust stud holes because of the turbo and manifold coming off several times so I had to helicoil them with it on the truck(not easy or accurate). I picked up a thread repair kit from NAPA but it would be a heck of a lot easier to do it on the bench or have a machine shop do it to make sure they're straight.

vwfastg60

thanks but i dont think i will own this thing long enough to do another chain..The rod bearings spun or maybe a wristpin in one of the rods are bad it makes the same freakin noise looks like the oil pans coming off

vwfastg60

well the oilpan was easier said then done im told the diff has to come off???Any things i should know before doing this?sounds like a pain in the a$$

JL8Jeff

You can drop the oil pan and get it out by either lifting the engine or dropping the diff. I removed the 4 front crossmember bolts and then let the diff drop down. I had to wiggle the pan to clear the oil pump pickup but I got it out. My pan had a millions little pieces of plastic from the timing chain guide that broke. I'm glad I took the time to do it right. The diff will go right back up into place easily and you put the bolts back in. It's a hassle, but not that big of a deal.